We're building on offroad shifter kart buggy! The base frame for this new project is a Manco Deuce go kart with a semi-independent rear suspension. In this video we work on installing our 2001 Kawasaki Ninja 250r engine into this thing! In order to get this motorcycle engine into the cart, we needed to cut out all of the factory engine mounts and weld in new bars with custom mounting tabs for the motor. The hard part was designing a jack shaft that could not only let us re-gear but also not hit anything with the suspension's extreme range of motion. After that we got the engine completely bolted up with the chain and she's ready to go!
Thank you guys for watching and be sure to subscribe to see us finish this thing and rip it!

MUSIC

Music - Background and Montage Music Is From Endemic Sounds
https://www.epidemicsound.com/creator-subscription

MERCH

MERCHANDISE CUSTOM DESIGNED BY YOURS TRULY
https://teespring.com/stores/build-break-repeat

TOOLS

Pro-tools tubing bender-
https://pro-tools.com/collections/tube-and-pipe-benders
Optrel Crystal 2.0 Welding Mask- https://usa.optrel.com/en/eye_protection_helmets/products/show/crystal20/
Optrel Grinding Mask-
https://usa.optrel.com/products/augenschutz/helme-zum-schleifen-schneiden/?tx_optrelproducts_optrelproducts%5Bprodukte%5D=56&tx_optrelproducts_optrelproducts%5Baction%5D=show&cHash=6946e7984db203c03b8e30aafb0b3365
—————PARTS—————
22 x 11-8 Knobby Tire-
https://www.gopowersports.com/22-x-11-8-knobby-tire/?utm_source=YOUTUBE&utm_campaign=Build_Break_Repeat&utm_medium=Video
Go-Kart Steering Kit Complete-
https://www.gopowersports.com/go-kart-steering-kit-complete/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7ZSjzt7y5QIVjIzICh22TgAlEAQYASABEgJJr_D_BwE/?utm_source=YOUTUBE&utm_campaign=Build_Break_Repeat&utm_medium=Video
20 x 7-8 Knobby Tire-
https://www.gopowersports.com/20-x-7-8-knobby-tire/?utm_source=YOUTUBE&utm_campaign=Build_Break_Repeat&utm_medium=Video
Wheels-
https://www.gopowersports.com/8-wheel-4-x-4-pattern/?utm_source=YOUTUBE&utm_campaign=Build_Break_Repeat&utm_medium=Video
Axle Bearings-
https://www.gopowersports.com/3-hole-axle-bearing-kit/?utm_source=YOUTUBE&utm_campaign=Build_Break_Repeat&utm_medium=Video
Sprocket Hub-
https://www.gopowersports.com/1-sprocket-hub/?utm_source=YOUTUBE&utm_campaign=Build_Break_Repeat&utm_medium=Video
Engine Plate-
https://www.gopowersports.com/predator-engine-mount-2-420cc-670cc/?utm_source=YOUTUBE&utm_campaign=Build_Break_Repeat&utm_medium=Video
Brake Rotor-
https://www.gopowersports.com/blazer-200r-rear-brake-rotor/?utm_source=YOUTUBE&utm_campaign=Build_Break_Repeat&utm_medium=Video
Spring Assisted Shocks - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gab-43049

So in the last three episodes of the deuce build, you saw a strip down this engine off of a ninja 250r. We made the front and rear suspension. We have over, like 13 14 inches of flex. This thing is building up to be an awesome buggy.

So what do we need to do this engine yeah? So the first thing we're gon na do is we're gon na strip the engine down and get all the unnecessary stuff off of it and then start mounting it up? Let's get started then just strip down. Now, here's kind of a moment of truth to see if it's gon na fit in the deuce yeah. This will be like there yeah there looks like we got plenty of room for engine mounts we're a first thing. You would use like a modified 670 mount to give our engine adjustment and just kind of make it easier on ourselves, but we're realizing that probably the most effective way to do this is just cut everything out, so we can drop the engine move it wherever we Need and make it a lot easier for us to just fit all the jack shaft and everything in there half of its out all the back end up.

We got the original mounts taken off and we cleaned all the metal up. So now we just cut one bar: that's gon na go across the back and have two tabs going off to the back mount of the engine. Then after we have that mounted up what we owe them out. The two upper mounts, so the lower engine mounts, are in now now we need to do some flex testing to make sure it's not gon na hit anything.

We flex it out so we're gon na do that and if it's all good we're gon na weld it up. Yeah yeah. This should be perfect. Yeah this spring, that's Matt's toe, so Phil forgot how much flex this thing has.

We got like four inches more up here, sure with the riders and it's more weight, you'd be able to stuff more, but we're doing good and at worst-case scenario we can put some limiting straps in the back, but I don't think it's gon na be a shoe. We got the back mounted in that way, we're able to do our Flex test and kind of hinge it up and down, and we really like how it fits there's plenty of clearance, even at full compression of the shocks. So now we're going to do is we're going to utilize our 180s from our tubing bender and we're basically going to make a mountain right up along here and just make it go all the way down. So, let's get over to our Pro Tools, tubing bender and get to work okay, so our engine is fully mounted and we kind of mutilate go Powersports engine plate, so you get these sliders.

But now what we're gon na do is move on to the jack shaft. Our idea is we'll be able to tighten both chains. If we can move the jack shaft forward and backwards, then we only need to run tensioners because tensioners are kind of a pain. We've really only messed they'll on the rotary cart and it's just kind of difficult to adjust and stuff.

So hopefully this works out alright. So the plan is we're gon na weld on this just like right up in here and then we'll be able to we're going to well. Basically, our axle hangers are cut to be the perfect length here. So then, we'll be able to use the two holes right up next to each other and tighten our jack shaft forward and backwards.
So basically now we just need to do a bunch of welding and get it bolted up. It's sick. This looks so it's really nice to use dalgo power for its parts, so it kind of looks like I mean it actually looks like a part you could buy. You know I mean like it's really cool, don't forget to check out, opt row if you're wondering where this space-age helmets coming from.

So let's get this bolted on the carpet. When you start mocking up our jackshaft, I mean it really. Actually, this isn't any better than this. We did have to take stock ninja like chain guard off cuz.

I like the way how close these sprockets are. That's no way ever gon na work for us. So now we need to do. Is we need to go? Get a little little hub 4:40 chain, because basically we don't want to use this motorcycle chain.

Cuz sprockets are harder to find and go power. Sports for tea train is plenty strong for basically any application, so we are going to start by using this monster sprocket, which is about the same size as this on the axle, so basically we're going from little sprocket to big sprocket to little sprocket to big sprocket. So it's basically to be a sprocket. That's doubled aside, like these two together, so hopefully first gear.

The top speed is like 1 mile, an hour which should be pretty cool and then we're hoping the fact that this has 11,000 rpms that'll be able to give us a decent top speed. The good news is this: is a split sprocket, so we're gon na be able to adjust this in the future. So please don't like get honest about how this thing's gon na go top three to five miles an hour, because you really don't know with this engine. That's six gears, but who knows honestly, so what we're gon na do is basically just start by mocking up.

We need to get a sprocket on here and then we can drop our axle and we're gon na weld in two more axle bearings right at the center. But this is super promising guys. I think this is one of the best ways we could have approached this so setting up our new axle. We have our new go power, sports, brake and brake hub, and then our new sprocket and we're gon na put two more axle hangers on since it's gon na have a lot more power and a lot more torque going through the axle.

We want to make sure to support it, so we got two hangers that will just go right under the engine mounts now that our accent hangers are bolted up and good to go. Now we need to do this, put the chains on and just basically roll. This thing and make sure there's no binding. Hopefully we can just the plan, is we'll be able to move this back and forth and be able to tighten both chains.

Hopefully one chain doesn't have considerably more slack than the other, but we should be good all right. Well, it's been actually about a month since we've worked on everything, we've been really tied up with engineering and like the paddy wagon, with a big undertaking, but we're back to working on the deuce and where we left off last time is we have the hanger basically In I'm all ready to go, it looks really good, especially seeing it a little bit later, but now we're gon na run our 40 chain on the other side around there go Powersports axle, and then this 40 chain hub here. So after this, it's basically just going to come down to making our just testing to see if it rolls and we can tighten the chain and have both chains tight, let's go Powersports chain break to break the chain and then we'll be able to put it on With the master link and test our handiwork, all right, so we've got all the key ways in chains are on and now we're just tightening up our carrier, we'll see how it rolls yeah guys. This looks pretty sick, I'm really digging the jack look.
I mean hard like Nutella, there's no noises, that's a tire, so yeah she doesn't seem to be binding or anything that that's a sight right there. This thing's gon na look so cool and like we're a little bit forward on this side, but this chain has not been run, and this one has so once this one stretches it should be pretty even yeah. You can see we're slightly crooked right now, but 40 chain is pretty forgiving, especially on big sprockets, so I think we'll be okay, even if it just like ends up being like this. So the really only potential flaw and our design could be with these bolts.

Wanting to slide forward, that's gon na be a wrap for this video scene. The role it didn't have any sort of binding, no metal on metal noises um, I'm really happy with how our little carrier turned out. This was kind of one of the more things I was worried about with this build because um most like a lot of motorcycle engine, buggies kind of have issues with torque, and things like that. So we wanted to start on the insanely torquey side and if it's impossible to drive or whatever we can always be writ, but for that first test drive, I don't want to put any extra load on the clutch or anything like that.

So I hope y'all can understand where we're coming from with having the big sprocket a little into another big one. Okay, it might feel like wheelies or something that'd be kind of cool, but anyways. We are super happy with this. This was one of the bigger hurdles for this build.

Now that everything is there and we can see it, we could finally work on just trying to get this engine running in the frame and then do things a clutch shifter. All of that, this thing should be a pretty cool little monster, but I think in the next video, what we're going to do is we're going to lower that roofline a little bit and install our go power. Sports racing seats so stay tuned for that for sure anyways. Thank you.
Go power sports on a lot of our sick bearing stuff is from go power sports and are changed pretty much a lot of the parts we use they're awesome. So with that being said, thank you guys for watching see you next time.

Avatar photo

By YTB

21 thoughts on “Kawasaki ninja offroad buggy build pt 3 engine is in!”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Boosted Adrenaline says:

    Hello, do you have a video on the clutch cable routing stuff? I'm buying a buggy project and without looking at it I don't understand the clutch pedal/lever stuff

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars truck projects says:

    I like the buggy videos but do you guys think you could do like a build break down of the red chevy truck? Please haha

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars AM Custom fab says:

    you should do a watts link on the back instead of the pan hard bar it wold look cool and keep your suspension straighter if you are not sher what a watts link is i did a video making one loving the build

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Alasdair says:

    Your shock eyes will break off the bottom pretty quickly. You need to ball mount the bottom mounts to allow them to roll sideways.
    Also, you should level that panhard bar, it will jack the axle sideways when you get a vertical deflection if it's at an angle.
    Great work though, it will tract over anything.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars t Stricklin says:

    Hey guys like your channel but no offence intended but your intro music kills me. I dono if its the volume being so loud it comes through distorted or simply the frequency of music. Not trying to be a asshole but will tell you it causes me to pass you over alot. But just wanted to say that and keep up good work cant wait to see it rip

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars mxwizzard says:

    Use the upper rear engine mount and 4 small heim joints two short rods and weld on two mounts to the jack shaft plate so you can adjust it left and right and forward and back will help with the 4 bolts sliding under torque and throwing the chains just a suggestion

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars HessXpress says:

    tension the chain and tack weld it in place. can always grind the tack and readjust later. awesome build guys!

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Shore Garage says:

    I really like the idea you’ve got here. I am building a buggy as well and I used the exact same shocks. Other than mine, this is the first one I’ve seen using the same shocks as me. Right on guys keep the good stuff coming!

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Westie 4AGE Turbo. says:

    You should put a horizontal bolt that attaches to your adjustment plate and holds it in place. Both the engine and the axel will be pulling it so it will loosen. It wont stay tight no matter how tight the bolts are. What with vibration etc. but if you put a plate on the frame and one on that plate and bolt them together to resist that pull then you are sorted. Just like the tension bolts that work on gocarts etc

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars elesjuan says:

    If you end up with the adjustment sliding forward on the jack shaft, put a turn buckle on the rear tube and mount to the center of the jackshaft's slide. That'll let you pull the shaft back and help lock it down. This thing is looking pretty sick. Can't wait to see it moving!

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Cody McGill says:

    Weld tabs on the carrier and rear frame tube with adjusting bolts so that the carrier cant slide and you can get it straight easier.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars 99 miles away says:

    That's gonna be ridiculously low geared man, but those six gears will still get ya going pretty quick, and in short order 😂😂 gonna be a blast to ride!

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars James Jenkins says:

    Your gonna be able to pull a truck with that gearing. You can look up the specs for that motor and do the math and you wouldnt have to guess at your gearing.

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars john smith says:

    who knows what the top speed of this engine will be guys, it has six gears and goes to 11000 RPMs. Well there sir somebody who knows how to do math and use a calculator could tell you the top speed just by knowing the gear ratios of the transmission, Max engine RPMs sprocket sizes and tire sizes!!

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rcracer says:

    Nice build so far.. I really think you need some gussets or some kind of support between those Jack shaft mounts.. They are a few inches from the upside down plate and may flex.. Just a thought .. Hope we see it run soon..

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars coon555 says:

    Cart looks sick! Would it not get better ground clearance with the big 40 series sprocket on the jack shaft next to the big motorcycle sprocket and putting the smaller one closer to the ground? Looks great so far! The motorcycle chain tensioner on each side of the jack shaft is easy and should work great as well!

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars john914 says:

    Your shifter will be moving w/ your rear suspension. Good job, can't wait to see it finished and tested!

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Remnant D says:

    Looks really great, be interesting to see on the gearing, I think its a good move and lots of options for future gearing as you said.

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Art Hartman says:

    Need to make bolt adjustments to pull the axle back and to keep it from going forward. Build looks good guys can’t wait to see it ride

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Furrball6275 says:

    Hey so I put this same engine on my go kart, just wanted to say that my gearing ratio is already too low, and yours is about twice as low as mine, anyways if you are going for a crazy amount of torque, you will get it for sure lol

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BryDuhBikeGuy says:

    That's so Awesome guys ! You can either buy,or make 'motorcycle style' axle tensioner set-up.1 on each side of the jackshaft plate.This cart is Sick.Can't wait to see you roll over rocks.

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