Oh all right, so the goal of this video is to get that motor, spinning, so uh. First thing: we need to do now that everything's mounted is finalize all these wires, so i'm just going to start with a positive okay, so uh kind of just to plan for this video is i'll. Do each wire one at a time and i'll explain what it does so this one's pretty simple i mean. Obviously we have the positive from the battery.

It just goes into this 350 amp fuse, which will then go through this wire into our contactor yeah. Okay, so good yep, so now we do this. Oh here goes our contactor wire. That then goes to the battery positive on our motor controller um.

If you all don't know what kind the contactor is basically just a really big relay since this thing's running 90 volts. You need something, a little beefier and then just an fyi um. We are doing all the positive right now, which may seem dangerous, but the negative of this battery is not connected over to that battery and it's not connected to the frame. So we are all good nothing's connected and then, when we start doing negatives i'll make sure all this is unplugged.

Yes, yes, so with this, the whole back section is done right now we just have the fuse out so everything's, safe and the front's not connected yet but um. So yeah, i'm just gon na give a little quick explanation. Uh, keep in mind every like motor controller. Battery setup is different, but this is how ours goes.

We have m1, which goes to our field, one windings, and then we have um m3, which is over here, which goes to our field two. So we have both of our fields on these black wires and then we have armature. One goes to battery yeah battery positive, and then we have armature two goes to m2 on our motor controller. If you're making your own yours might be different, but that's how ours is so, then we just have battery positive, going to positive battery negative, going to negative, pretty simple, so yeah.

We just need to connect the two batteries up front and then we're gon na do uh. There's one 16 pin plug on the controller, and then it might run all right. So we got the batteries connected together. We need to zip tie this a little bit out.

The way, but there should be enough room for our legs and that finishes all of our two gauge wires. We don't have the fuse in right now, but um yeah. This all seems correct, so now we're getting on to the small wires. So these are, i think, 22 gauge wires and we need to just route these to the throttle.

Um the foot switch and kill, switch and stuff like that, so we're kind of doing some wiring, but we're also going to wrap up some of the like strength, things that we need. These motor mounts are pretty much there, but they just need some extra gusting. So i kind of marked out some trapezoid kind of gussets that's going to go on the bottom. I added this huge bar up top and i'm adding a couple more triangles on there, but just a little bit more metal work, and then we can finish up this 12 pin connector.

So i just spent a little bit making up this little chain guard, because this is a high horsepower application. Our heads going to be right over here. We really want to be safe with this, so it's as simple as just going to use up these two motor mounts right in here, so it will pivot with the motor and then it's going to guard our chain like so so that's going to be right over Where our chain needs to be keep us nice and safe, vm tape we're going to attach this resistor. So this is called a pre-charged, resistor and um.

You need it because inside your motor controller, there's a bunch of capacitors and then when capacitors are uncharged, they essentially act like a just wire, no resistance at all. So when you flip your switch and the contactor contacts, all the power is going to go through and it'll act like there's nothing that it'll act like there's just a wire there, so you get a huge current spike and that can damage a lot of internal equipment Inside the motor controller - and it can cause pitting welding and other stuff in your contactor, so what you need to have is a pre-charge resistor, so we have it wired in parallel between each side of the contactor and we have a resistor right there. So this is a 10 kilo, ohm resistor, which would make it that only four milliamps is flowing through there. So, basically, when we put the fuse in this, will uh connect our pre-charge, resistor and i'll just kind of very slowly charge up the capacitors.

So then they'll be charged and we want a huge current spike when the contactor flips, so our switch panel is all wired up. We have our uh keyswitch, which just kind of starts powering up. The motor controller just gets warmed up, and then we have our contactor switch, which connects the main power, and then we have our forward and reverse, which is an on off on switch. So when it's up you'll be in forward and then in the middle it'll be nothing and then in reverse, it will be yeah reversed.

So with that all the wiring is done, it's a little um a lot of it's just twisted together. It's just uh for us to diagnose things and make sure everything's right before we finalize. So when we turn the kill switch on, we do have one problem. We get the green power led.

So that's a good sign. That means our motor controller actually works a little bit, but there's an error led on it. A red flashing led and it's blinking seven times so that means we have ever error code number, seven, which is programming out of range. So that means that our motor controller is not programmed properly for it to work with either our batteries or our motor or anything in between so right now we are waiting, i think three more days and we will get a handheld programmer that will plug into our Motor controller and then um so yeah i'll, have to try and figure out how to program this thing and make it work with our motor.

But if we can get that working, this thing should be running, so we just got the controller uh. We only have this thing for five days: it's a rental because buying this thing is 500, so basically i'm just going through everything on the motor. So we have a bunch of little statuses. It'll, give you all the values like voltage and things like that.

We're in our tests, which just kind of shows all the values, and so here's our forward - reverse switch. You all can see that four just turned to one and then you flip it now it's in, i guess neutral, and then we got reverse so that works pretty happy about that. And then, if you go down to um your acceleration potentiometer uh, can you see that see how it's going up all the way to 99.5 and then back down to zero? So those two things work so our kind of interface things with our controller, are all working. So it's all just about the programming now all right, so we changed up.

A couple of parameters did a little programming and i think this is actually going to work. So we got key switch on and then contactor and then now we have forward okay. So now we're just watching the motor yep. This should work.

We still have a warning light, but it's a warning. None error. I guess you could say so. Oh i hear it.

Oh dude that sounds really cool. That's really high! Pitched dude, okay yeah show us the throttle action. Let's get both yeah, so yeah i mean obviously there's nothing connected to it right now, but um hey, give it give it some juice. Oh man, so yeah um, that's actually really cool yeah.

If you all can see it's not stopping so there's uh, there's something in there that like has an inch. So i guess it's that so definitely some more programming needed to be done, but it did. It works so yeah, that's insane good work, man! This is all about my pay grade. Dang, it's still not immediate, but it's better.

That's super fast yeah! All right! Let me see so that's one point uh one, and so what we're doing right now is we're changing the acceleration figure to see how quick it conditions. So there's um, so basically there's like a little time. You can add a time delay so that it takes. You know like with no load 1.5 seconds to fully floor it, so it was set to 1.5 and right now it's set to 1.5 and y'all can probably y'all can probably tell the difference.

So i mean yeah it'll be a little bit more responsive now. So with all that being said, we're still not done programming. This thing you all might have noticed uh. I just hit the throttle a little bit wait yeah and it runs for approximately 10 seconds.

So there's a lot of different like inches inch and creep modes. For this thing, because it's used in forklifts a lot so basically there's probably a one where there needs to be a zero or zero there's used to be a one, and it's just doing this creep function. So all right guys. So with that.

This thing is hopefully fully programmed just a little recap of what we did uh first, i had to wire everything up and i mean a couple: little headaches, just figuring out what everything went, but that wasn't that bad. Then we had to wait for this thing to come in which actually i was, i was kind of skeptical whether we could get it running, but the programming wasn't too difficult. I made four adjustments on this thing. So, first of all, we changed the accelerator to work, and then we changed the speed limit so that when this thing gets low on charge, it will limit our speed to 50 uh right before so we'll know kind of when we're getting low battery just just kind Of drivability thing, and then i programmed out that creep at the end, and then we made the power curve linear.

So it's basically the delivery is going to be more direct instead of smoother. So with that this thing after we clean up the wires, is going to be ready to drive, so you all make sure to stay tuned for next video, where we drive this good.