Hi Well this repair video has taken a while. It's been three months since I uploaded uh the tear down on part one uh repair of this hay uh trench uh ESD 1600 gun uh ESD tester gun and then I did actually post a part two of this where we actually uh, discovered that the fault was uh, this special snowflake rotary encoder here it would only operate in One Direction and so it would only go uh down I think it wouldn't go up and of course this has a digital readout. You can adjust it uh from 2 kts up to 16 Kilts output and it worked. The gun actually worked but I couldn't give it above the 2 kilovolt.

Anyway, I'll link in the video up here and down below if you haven't seen it. and also an interesting follow-up video of a tear down of the actual uh rotary encoder here which is a really unusual type. It's not your usual rotary encoder so I won't go through the details again. you can watch that video.

but anyway, um, this rotary encoda is only a single Source you can't get it anywhere else but I found a company uh in Germany on eBay that um sold like New Old Stock of these and you know they sold them two at a time at a reasonable price. So ordered them um straight away and I month went by or something and I didn't get them and well and mucking around and trying to trace it all. it turns out nope, lost in the post. so completely lost.

So just ordered uh two more of them and they did, uh, turn up and I'm back from holiday. So now I actually got these this time. So I've got two of these bad boys. so let's actually take a look.

You can see here that there are single pole double throw here either side and each side here operates in One Direction only. So this is the uh common here. so it'll toggle between these two pins like this when you rotate in One Direction and if you rotate in the other Direction it doesn't do anything at all, it'll just stay there. and likewise, this one here will toggle between the those two pins as you rotate it.

So let's actually connect this up I Think this one is the yeah, that one's normally closed. so let's actually rotate this. I'll go counterclockwise like that. It does nothing counterclockwise cording to the bottom.

but if I go clockwise Bingo There you go, it does the business and that other pin will be that'll just be normally open and that one will close when I go in that direction. Well, no, occasionally it it stays on. I Think no, it should or shouldn't. Not sure, No, it shouldn't.

but even if it does accidentally stay on anyway, it's the impulses that matter that the microcontroller is looking for. So let's try the other pair over here like this. and yeah, normally closed. and if we go in the counterclockwise Direction it is beIN and going the other direction it's not and the other pin counterclockwise Direction Yep, it goes like that.

and yeah, Bob's your uncle, no worries Works a treat. So this should fix the gun right? So here's the PCB that we got out of this thing and if you saw the uh tear down video, it's really annoying cuz it had this metal plate with all these switches on it and had to desolder all of those to get in there to the uh, dig pot. Where is it? It's up here so have all my holes been sucked out? desolder that one's a bit how you're doing. might have to open up that one a bit.

but anyway, let's see if we can get that back in there and resolder that sucker. So yeah. Unbelievable. A special snowflake.

wouldn't it be my luck? Murphy Of course this used a special snowflake thing that's available from One Source on eBay in Germany New Old Stock um yeah, it's just nuts. Yeah, of course you know. Ultimately, if I couldn't get it, I would have designed a little uh, plug-in board or something that just converted a regular rotary encoder um, encoding scheme into this encoding scheme and it wouldn't have been too hard. In fact, that would have been an interesting video.

but I was able to get this. Let's just res suck that one shall we? Beautiful? Look at that. Bobby Desler classic. Solda sucker.

There we go. Got it. Got it? Sorry. was zoomed in so all that back in place Bob's your uncle look at that? Oh, hang on.

one of the pins didn't make it. Oh you kidding me? Oh did I bend one? oh what? what? what? what? I just sold it I should have checked I just solded all four of those. Oh bloody, it's not even Monday Yeah, look at that I squished it. Oh unbelievable I thought I had it in in.

Oh, that's what she said. Luckily do have a spare but I might get one more shot at this. Oh no, it's floppy. that's what she said again.

I'll have to watch the tear down video again. but why are they manufacture this with two soft little ply pissant pins and four big thump and solid machine ones? I'll never know. but anyway, oh gosh tried to again I probably get got one shot at this always double check before you stick your pins into the hole. once again, she's saying a lot today.

oh that. Okay that when I did not put any pressure on that that time I did not put any pressure on and oh I think I see two pins. winner winner chicken dinner. Okay, you can see them there and that one there you were probably all scream it me before right? cuz oh there we go cuz you saw it on your whizbang screens you're watching this on sorry I got to put this on an an I don't know I can probably use my third hand three hands on a pivot here.

No. I couldn't be bothered getting out a holder. one pin there. Okay, I'll get.

I'll get this bad boy over here. There we go. That's one of the pins over there. no worries and that is the other one there.

o You can rotate the board easily when you got it sitting on just a shaft like that. Once again, that's what she said and sorry about the contrast here. It's always a problem contrast when you're trying to record video like that. And yeah, I got the fresh Rosen fum rooms.

Anyway, there you go. So now it's in. Unbelievable but there you go. 493 Classic for the win Now I'm got to make sure these pins are not.

no these are. these are pretty solid. They're solid as they should go in. hopefully I've got it's It's hard to tell where the holes are, but yeah there there there there and there they all look good don't they? So I should be able to.

Problem is, you got to line up. You got to line up 12 pins perfectly before it all drops into place and it's and they're attached to this side like they're attached to this side. So you've got to like. this is the only way to do it.

Like what engineer is responsible for this horrible abomination of an assembly process n that's terrible Muriel And they wobble from side to side. That's why it's not going in. Oh, and that one's pushed out like oh oh no, can I actually take that I think I can Yeah, I can take that out I can take that out and push it in later. push them more flush.

Oh yeah, yeah, some of them have come out, so let me push them all flush. Yeah, look at that. so they're all flush now. I Don't know why some of them have this little um, plastic ring on it.

Um, doesn't seem to be insulating anything of note. So I there you go. So what you got to do? You got to give a wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah to some of them before they'll go in. There we go.

That's the trick. I'm ready for my job at the Hay. Haily Hay assembly line. two pins.

Okay, they don't go all the okay oh that. see a that that metal plate. I Don't know whether or not the metal plate supposed to to sit on those spaces or what. Don't know what the deal is there.

Rather unusual and annoying construction. but my my pins are all the way through right? So as long as those switches are push flush with that and I eyeball them that they're all good. Don't know what the metal plate does. Does it just flap around in the breeze? One? there's it.

Look that one. There's higher than the other ones. So what's going on there? Oh, it's the plastic. It's the plastic spacer.

Okay, I'm not entirely sure what the Height's supposed to be. I might go check the fit in the front panel. I Don't think it's going to matter. Actually, yeah, it's It's not going to matter at all if like, one of them's sticking up slightly more than the others.

it's just rather annoying. Like cuz some of them have that plastic spacer and some don't. So I don't know. Not sure what the deal is.

Maybe I can just align, pull them up to align them all at the right height manually. All right? I think I've got that, so that's going to be good enough for Australia. So let's go in here and resolder these I Know I should not be on the side like that. I should have flipped it around like that cuz it had the elongated pad and that's just the correct thing to do.

Don't you hate it when you solder bends like that and a bit Ra there for the ground plane? Don't pay the Fairman till he get you to the other side. All right, we are good to go. So I will now reassemble the whole kitten. Kaboodle and this pot should magically work.

Um I can't just power this up on its own. It's got to be all sort of like hand assembled before you can fire up anything. It's it's a terrible design as you saw in the tear down video. Okay now I have to remember how this all goes back together.

All these Loosey Goosey wires here. Um, they solder onto points on the main board I Believe. um I do have a Post-It note somewhere I recorded it when I tore it down. so let me find the details.

Okay, so this has a board to board interconnect which goes in there and all these wires are out of the way here. and then we've got some solder tag here as well. They have to be uh, no, they go back in with screws and then there's spaces as well. I've got all my assorted bits in here I Just have to remember it's been 3 months I have to remember how they went back on.

Maybe should have documented it a bit better, but H she'll be right. Check it out. It's pretty horrible. You've got a board which sits on a a right angle Spade lug solded onto the shazzy like that.

and then this spacer here is supposed to go in there like that. Um, and then you're supposed to screw it in from the front panel. Um, it's a it's just awful Show you this is truly horrendous. It really is like I've got one in but then the other one barely lines up and you've got to try and but I can't it doesn't go back.

It doesn't go back. It's in, In and under. In and under. Oh um, don't design your products like this.

Kitties, please. This is ridiculous. Now you got to manipulate that. until that lines up there.

it all hinges on this bent speed lug here. and now the boards come out again. So now I've got to try and get the no line up all the pins again because there's too much solder on there. It's a nightmare.

No. I'm going to have to bend that Spade lug more. This is ridiculous. This is the worst physically designed product I've ever seen.

This is just insane. And all the while I got to be careful not to like bend the pins. Thankfully, it's a double row. They're fairly solid, but you know you could easily easily bust one.

Maybe I can cut off a bit of the solder. There be less thick. Now here's where you want a pair of reverse Flush Cutters Like this, these are reverse ones, so that should allow me to get in there and just trim off that solder a bit so that board fits in there a bit better without me having to attack like a actually resolder the stupid thing cuz then it'll all come out of alignment. So there you go.

So I've trimmed off some solder on there. so sorry not getting the best camera angles here, but hopefully you're getting the idea of what a real pain this is. Lot of excess solder on there, so yeah, that should give me a bit more margin cuz I was really pushing that board across to fit in the socket. Ah, that goes in the socket much easier now.

Yep. I'm liking that. Hey I think I can see the hole now. and after all that I Just realized I've got the wrong spacer on here, the wrong spacer.

I have to put a screw from the back there and not that that's hasn't caused me much grief, but it is a pain. so what we need to do is get the screw through there and then get the spacer there we go. Got the spacer in there like that and then that goes back. Doesn't quite line up now.

Aha I Just realized I should watch my tear down video. Maybe I can uh uh, realize how it went in that is spaced off there because the PCB slides under there. So I was flogging a dead horse before trying to get that in. So yeah, there you go.

That's the trick. But now I've got the problem of trying to get the board to board, interconnect in there and sliding it under there at the same time. Okay, let's get this board in here. Lines: Whoa.

the first pin's a bit how you doing? How about that? it goes in. Aha? Yep. I think I got it? Yeah, let that be a lesson to you. document your tear Downs a bit better.

or uh, watch your own tear down videos and maybe it's in there somewhere. But uh, we're good. We're good to go now. I Think put the Spacer and the LCD back on and last screw for the LCD.

Turns out I didn't have to take that off I Don't think to get the board out, but didn't know that at the time. It's actually easier once you've done one of these once, as as is always the case. But yeah, no, doesn't excuse this horrible design. Now comes another really tricky part: I Have to.

Actually, you can't see it. but that is a four pin connector and this brown wire flapping around the breeze has to be sold on that rear pin right down in there. What a what a nightmare. So I almost have flip the whole thing out, um solder it in and then sort of flip the whole thing back in.

I Think yeah. so what I got to do is kind of like flip this whole thing out. then I can access the solder, that pin down there and then I can flip it all back in and this, um, spacer has to go between the boards there. but but I can take that out from the other side so that's not too much of a drama.

Um, it's not pretty. I'll get back to you. This is where the long pair of needlenose pliers comes in handy and we'll get that black wire in there. don't burn any of the buttons.

been there, done that any bit of surrounding plastic And and there we go threading a needle. Wow. Got the trigger button and then there's just enough. Hopefully this sits in there properly is just enough lead length to solder on.

Oh sorry, you can't see it but solder on the output terminal. Yep, there we go and that is some surgery. The front panel that just sits like that, they actually go into self tappers into the plastic. Oh no I forgot the stud up here.

There you go. So I've got to put this stud back in. Oh no. Oh did I forget I think I forgot I think I forgot.

there is a giant stud which goes through here like this. Oh no. and I've got to somehow screw that back in. This just gets better and better.

Go needle ni pliers again. Yeah. I can remember this from the tear down I had to get that out before I could get the the board and the shazzy or the shazzy out and then the board's out. There is a special place in hell for whoever designed this actually before.

I Get this back together I've plugged it in so no touching of any of the scary bits of of course but uh, operate there we go Taada and let's see if it goes up it does. It goes up. Yay! Oh sorry, it starts at 200 volts not 2 kilovolts. There you go Works in both directions.

Winner winner chicken dinner. Well haven't tested the Sparks yet. Can't do that. You got to hook up the grounds and everything and with enough patience, you can actually get that in.

Oh man. I'm sure you get used to it at the factory, but that's ridiculous. There's got to be a better way to do that. That's just crazy.

Anyway, that is one of the studs like you don't like. You can hook the ground up to either that stud there or that one there. It's all connected by the same shazzy. But yeah, that's just crazy.

There we go. tight, isn't not as nasty. Okay, the last thing I want to actually uh repair in this thing is uh, the nickel metal hydride. uh batteries? I think I said Nikad.

uh in the previous video there are are actually nickel metal hydride made in Japan All the best stuffs made in Japan and um, yeah, they've come a gutter over the years. So uh, we've got that's a six series cell design and it does have a little thermal fuse in there. so I'm not going to crack open my pack and actually replace that. But anyway, I've got a nickel metal Hydro 2200 Mah Um, six cell? uh pack.

and oh so I will. They're just like dodgy folded onto there. so I will just um. and that's a temp sensor.

um down in there. so I'll just cut a hole in the top of that. I'll stick the T temp sensor. down in the middle and I'll just cut these off and bodge them in.

So yeah, nothing much to it. Well, wasn't entirely straightforward. Did have to dig that out of there. But there you go.

So there she comes out. I'll just stick that down the clacker of the new pack. No worries, she'll be right there. We have it.

I'll just manage those cables in there. Now the interesting thing is, this is already charged up so you got to be careful when you're soldering these in not to touch any of the high voltage stuff cuz technically you could turn it on. Let's try it. Yay! Look at that works.

It's fortunately it's only set to 200 volts, but you know, never be too careful anyway. I'll put the cover back on and Bob's your uncle. We'll test her out. Let's put the nylon spacer screws back in.

use. nylon screws of course is cuz you don't want any exposed metal on your 16 kilovolt ESD generator cuz uh yeah, you could come a gutsa and that could ruin your day. Unfortunately, our calibration is now void. Gosh darn it though.

they do have plastic self tappers on the to hold on the outside thing here, but no worries because well, it just goes into the plastic case and it's all on the low voltage side anyway way. so I'll just turn that back Let It Drop In place, find the thread So Pro tip with metal screws into plastic. just rotate it back until you find the point where it slightly drops in place to the existing thread and then you can scroll it back in and then you're not. uh, cutting a new thread in your plastic.

but don't overtighten that. There you go. Look at that like a bought one. Now please use the crudity of the model.

Didn't have time to build it to scale or to paint it. I'm going to use my trolley here. I've got my ESD my now functioning ESD gun. look.

it's actually functioning with the battery now. so I can actually, uh, turn the wick up and down. How novel. Um, so yeah.

I've got my uh grounding strap. it's going back uh, to my power supply over there and the troll is connected over there. Yeah, it's not exactly an ISC 61000-4-2 standard setup. Leave it in the comments down below if you want me to and well probably will anyway.

but definitely leave it in the comments down below. If you want me to build a like IEC compliant or you know one, that's at least good enough for Australia uh. compliant bench for ES You know, proper ESD testing cuz we've got the proper gun. We've got the Uh.

two different uh adapters. This one's for an air, the rounded uh tip is for the air gap and the pointy one is for direct contact measurements. But yeah, we can actually just design and build a uh, like a compliant bench. at least for like a pre- compliance purposes.

Anyway, leave it in the comments down below if you want to see that. and to actually, um, measure the output from this thing, actually get a proper waveform and actually check the uh compliance of this thing you need. What's called a Uh Pelini Target Um, and it's basically a Uh Two Ohm, a proper coaxial two high frequency coaxial 2 ohm uh test Target And and it's also defined in the Uh 61000-4-2 standard um as well. So yeah, you know it's like if you want to do all this ESD stuff properly, there's a lot of stuff involved.

You have to get really serious. But anyway, let's just try the trolley. Let's just get something out of this thing. So let's turn it up to L38 Kilovolts here.

We got air discharge. We've got a single here. Of course we can set, you know, repetitive, uh stuff. But anyway, let's just go for an 8.

KT Okay, let's see if we can zap these capacitors here, shall we? We may get some noise into the microphone cable, but oh, we'll give it a go. Jeez, it's hard to reach over the camera with the macro lens, but here go Zappity Duda Cool huh? So there you have it. There's a repaired halfly trench Pd600 gun and this is a real prop. Industry standard bit of kit for uh compliance, uh testing.

So um, that was absolutely fantastic. All it cost me was basically uh, just the Uh rotary encoder here and uh, bit of frustration taking it apart and putting it back together but not that's a Bobby desler and I Have no doubt that that actually Uh meets its uh would continue to meet its spec. But as I said, to get a proper Uh waveform measurement out of this, you have to have a proper high frequency uh 20 low which is called a Pelini uh Target and you've got to set it up specifically and even even this cable like you can't just leave it flapping around in the breeze, you've actually got to, um, you know, pull it back, stretch it back so it forms like the largest uh loop um possible. and like it's really serious stuff cuz these impulses are really high frequency stuff so you know the actual targets you use and the probing and everything else has to be really topnotch uh stuff.

But yeah, I I Trust that this thing would still deliver its uh, proper uh designed pulse response uh shape which would be you know match the industry uh, standard uh shape. but there's many different aspects to Uh Estd testing which is part of uh Em. it's just one part of uh EMC uh compliance the ESD testing but it's all in the standard and it's very involved and quite complicated. But give this video a thumbs up and leave a comment down below.

If you want me to design and build a proper ESD uh testing bench, I'd have to do it uh, down in the dungeon I Got room in the lab for a small bench, but you know it's better off building it uh, down there. and um, yeah, setting it up properly and maybe even getting some waveform proper and trying to get some proper waveform measurements out of this thing anyway. But as always, give it a thumbs up. Discuss down below and also on the Eev blog forum.

and I do release all these videos on Twitter SLX as well so you can follow me over there and Eev blog.com for the merch. Catch you next time I Can make these capacitors sing. Listen to this.