So what we're gon na do in this video is: do a full product review, how to an assembly guide. So basically we start. We got a bunch of boxes, let's just get to open them, first box, which is vendor itself. So here we go.

So it's got some nice powder coat, that's really strong made in the USA, maybe okay sweet. So this looks like our hydraulic foot pedal now. Yeah stand that is beefy is big okay and for the vendor we have our degree ring. So it's pretty accurate kind of my favorite part of the whole setup.

Here we have a one inch die as well as an inch and five-eighths die. The one inch size is going to be for pretty much all of our regular projects, just cards mini bikes, etc, and then the one is five-eighths die is going to be first up. Basically, we wanted this, so we could build roll cages and cars. We're also gon na build a complete two chassis.

This is so heavy. This is look at that, but this is so. We can build complete tube chassis. Like our golf cart with the GSXR 600, you want to make that into a dragster and be NHRA, certified and stuff like that.

So we're gon na need a inch and five-eighths chromoly. This will do the job everything on the box before we start putting everything together. We're gon na make a quick stand for it, so you're gon na have to or like a three foot bar in the back and then we're gon na have another three foot bar coming out about two feet from where the stand comes from and then we're gon Na have these nice locking caster wheels, so we can move it around easily and lock it down. It took forever to cut this right.

I wish we had a plasma cutter, but coming over here we grinded down the top weld, and this is just going to sit right up here and we'll drill our holes all right. So we're done drilling all the holes and we ended up shortening this front bar a little bit and now it's time to put the caster wheels on. So this is two inch two inches thick and our caster wheels are a little bit too big. So we are just going to end up just welding in line, but we'll give them they won't be taking too much force since it's hydraulic.

So just a couple welds it'll be really easy to cut off, so it wouldn't be a bill. Veck rebuild. If we didn't you just go power swear it's part, so we got our go power. Sports engine play that will be adapted basically into a holder for our hydraulic foot press.

So the idea is we'll be able to either use it in here or, if we're kind of using it more, we can lift it out and put it on the ground, but it's really made to fit either way. So now that we're done with all the fabrication, what we got to do is we got to clean this thing up and we're going to use some tractor paint like just super durable stuff and get it painted up at the farm yep and the implement paint. That's pretty nice yeah. You do we're kind of going for very thick coat yeah just about as much as we can get down there yeah right here for 15.

I guess and y'all everything. Okay! So now, if you've tightened down these two bolts, you want to make sure that your pin, slides up and down very easily since you'll, be using this to set the dies and stuff. And then you want to add a little bit of grease to the pin as well just to make it a little bit easier to slide. You've done this on the ratchet arm onto the handle you're pretty much all done with the manual setup, but we got the hydraulic conversion kit, so we're get to installing now install the pivot block into the hydraulic cylinder, we're kind of having a little bit of trouble.

Getting our thread started so we're just gon na extend, do the hydraulics and extend the cylinder first and then we'll be able to screw this in easier okay. So we have all the hydraulic lines and the air hose hooked up. So now we need to prime the pump. So what you do is you take off the pedal which is just a pin going through it and then you're gon na press down both the air intake valve and the release valve simultaneously.

So this one just a little slot for a flat head, okay and then, after that, if you press the pump in and that moves, you should be good. Yeah got a good response should be alright and now that all our hydraulics are done. We're now going to put our first dye in there. So the first thing you want to do is you're gon na lubricate, the inside of your dye, and then you can just put that in and big pin goes through that one and then you're gon na.

Have this three inch bolt right here, which is just to keep like grab onto the tube, so that doesn't slip while you're bending it? You put your you, strap on, and the pin through that the pointer goes on the end right here. You can tighten that down and then this can be bent anywhere to accommodate your gauges and then for dyes for inches radius or smaller they're. Gon na give you a smaller pin cut in here. Just to hold is straight and there will be a little wiggle room, but that's alright and then we'll install the backing block acrylic right up next to the dye there you go.

The dyes are in now we're gon na make our reference Bend, which is just kind of a pipe that you can take measurements off of. So you know how much pipe is used in a band or stuff like that. You're gon na start with a three-foot, long piece of tube and then measure 12 inches from left to right on one end and then you'll line that mark up right with the edge of the dive. Tighten the anti slip bolt just a little bit just lightly enough.

So keep the pipe in place, but not too tight we're just gon na kind of tap on the pump a little bit just to make sure all the slack is out. So then we can set our pointer okay. There we go okay, so there's no more wiggle. So now, let's make sure a pointer is edge, zero, exactly and that should be lined up so ninety degrees.

Then let's do it yep. This is a hydraulic. Cylinder only has about 14 inches of throw. You then have to release the pressure and then we'll move.

This pin back one notch on the die and then we'll get to bend some more yeah. Sometimes you might have to go a little bit past to the pipe don't stand out now. Let's take it out and check in the square, so we are a little less than 90 right here. It's not touching at the bottom there! So we'll just put this back in the bender right on this mark and just spend a little bit more okay.

So we got to exactly 90 for us, we kind of had to bend it to like ninety two and a half, and then it stretched back to ninety. But here we go so now we'll get a bunch of measurements off this thing and we'll use all this data to then bend any other pipe perfectly. Okay. So now that we kind of know how to use the two inventor, we have some reference tubes and stuff.

We're back to the CJ since you've seen it last kind of hard top and doors and some 36 inch I rocks on it absolutely huge, but something that's projects been kneading for a long time is a new cross member. So we're gon na bend up some one inch tube and make one the whole reason for the reference tube is to get all of this data right here. So what we had is the 12 inch measurement section and then, when you put the square on it, you can measure how much it gained. So we gained about 3 and 7/8, making it 15 7 days against the square, and then we lost about one and a half inches which made it 22 and a half against a square instead of 24.

So with that data we can then draw a little diagram of what the cross member is going to need to be so we know it needs to be 33 and 1/4 across. So then you split that into two halves, so 16, two 5s on each half and then we know that we lose one and a half inches. So then you're going to add that to the end. So that's what this little section right here is and then from there for, like the downward height, I guess you're gon na need to have your length minus what you gained.

So, in our case we gained 3 and 7/8 and for our length we want to be 4 inches. So these stick parts sticking out of the die at the very end or just gon na be 1/8 inch long. So from that, all we do is set the die on facing outward on each end, bend one at a time and we be good so we're at the front bar done. It fits really well so now all we got to do is the back bar okay.

So we just finished tacking up our cross number with the two cross braces and now I want to add a little basically bash bar for the transfer case, because they're pretty unprotected on cjs. So now what we're gon na do is bend a complete 180 hoop. So it should be really cool. This is one of the things I was most excited for with a tube you better, be any other than full.

180S. Okay, there's our 180. Oh, that is awesome. So I had a lot of extra bars to this.

You saw the one I've been up here for the transfer case and then I added the sheet metal gusset here and we use our Eastwood two and a half inch dimple dies to kind of make some cool holes in it. So now I'm gon na do this. I'm gon na paint it up with some tractor paint and then install it on the CJ okay. So we have our new cross member all installed on the CJ.

It turned out. Amazing tractor paints awesome stuff. If you're kind of building off-road components and things you just don't really want to get dinged up on the trail or stuff you don't have to worry about. I highly recommend it, but this video was about the Pro Tools.

Tubing, bender, absolutely love it guys. We were able to get perfect bends, I mean you can see so like imagine our tube frame rails and we had to calculate and measure how to exactly get a bar to go in between the two we never even messed up. It makes it pretty easy. Don't worry if you're not too good, with numbers and stuff Pro Tools in the manual lines it all out.

I know our description was a little bit confusing, but it's kind of hard to look back at all that math and stuff and really understand that it really helps if you're just doing it yourself. So with that being said, thank you Pro Tools. We absolutely love it. It's gon na make types of pipe bending super easy in the hydraulic add on it makes it like no effort required.

It almost feels like you're, not even doing work, so thank you guys so much for watching. Thank you. Pro Tools see you next time. You.