Teardown and Part 1 repair of a Haefely Trench PESD1600 16kV ESD tester.
If you can help identify the rotary encoder at 25:52 that would be awesome!
Unboxing and testing: https://www.eevblog.com/2023/10/13/exclusive-haefely-esd-gun-unboxing/
Forum thread for the rotary encoder: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/help-finding-rotary-encoder/
Forum: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-1572-haefely-16kv-esd-tester-teardown-repair-part-1/
00:00 - Haefely Trench PESD1600 16kV ESD gun
02:09 - The Onyx16. These things aren't cheap...
02:33 - DIY ESD Gun
03:00 - Teardown
04:08 - Probe tips
05:06 - Inside
05:46 - High voltage relay and pulse shape
07:19 - Front panel PCB and ANNOYING construction
08:09 - NiMH battery pack
09:35 - Did I mention the ANNOYING construction?
13:16 - It's OUT!
14:36 - Main PCB soldering
16:56 - This rotary encoder looks SPECIAL
18:13 - Testing the rotary encoder
20:27 - Are you sure I didn't mention the ANNOYING construction?
21:25 - The special snowflake rotary encoder is OUT
25:52 - HELP! Can you identify this rotary encoder?
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#ElectronicsCreators #Teardown #ESD

Hi it's repair and tear down time. Check out this bad boy! I've always wanted one of these EST guns. This is a Haily uh Trench Pd600 ESD gun. It's a 16 kilovolt, uh gun and it comes with um, interchangeable tips depending on which standard you want to, what type of product you're testing, and uh, you know various standards and things like that and these things are usually in the if you have to ask the price you can't afford it category and I've been wanting one of these things for years.

I've had it on my eBay watch list but I finally got one and this was sold as faulty. but I'll link it in up here and down below. I've done an exclusive unboxing video and test in video of this uh over on the EV blog.com website or on my Uh Patreon as well. You can, uh, check that out anyway.

So I'm not going to fire this thing up today, but the problem with this thing, um, is it. It turns out it does actually work. but this, uh, en voltage encoder, uh knob. Here, it's not actually a pot, it's a, it's a rotary encoder.

uh knob. It only works one way so it only goes down. it doesn't go up so I can't turn the voltage up or I can't turn the count up or whatever like that. So anyway, yeah, estd Zappy Zap zap zap Z Zap Zap Zap z Um, don't try this at home kitties.

but uh yes, it comes with the external power supply and the big ass grounding strap. Oh yeah, look at that. that's they used a ribbon cable for that anyway. Uh yeah, you got to agree on the thing.

but um, yeah. so let's take it apart and uh, see what's what? Oh, and it's got a battery in it as well. Um, and that is, uh, dead ski. So I don't know what type of battery, but um, it does work from the external.

uh Supply So yeah, so calibration is already void on that one, but the other ones are actually, uh, intact. So I assume somebody's just, um, that's just wear normal wear and tear on that. So anyway, there's the regular DC input. but uh yeah.

like this is not a new uh model. They don't sell this, uh anymore. The new one is the uh Onyx or something. um I'll put a photo up here.

but uh yeah. once again. um, these are in the five digigit price category. and even secondhand, they're like mid four-digit price category.

But yeah, I get got this one for. well, well under that because it was sold as 40. Anyway, let's rip it apart and I have been thinking about and I have investigated. uh, designing my own ESD gun.

Um I'm still looking into that, but this will provide a nice reference if I go ahead with that. Is there a that's just plastic? I don't what's going on there? Um oh I oh look, oh, is that like a plastic? Oh no, it's a um one of those screwdriver Flathead Jobby? Yeah, they are plastic screws. Okay, yeah, of course because you don't want metal screws in this, because well, you could come a gutter with the user actually. um, you know this thing is up to 16 kilovolts and you can get they've got other models which go into like, uh, 20 something? uh, kilovolts.
So yeah, oh, there you go. look at that. so that actually makes sense. Use plastic screws trap for young players.

That one, that one's actually not coming out. Not sure what the deal is there anyway. uh Haily if I'm pronouncing that correctly. Um, hay.

I don't know Swiss Viewers leave it in the comments down below. how is that actually? uh, pronounced? um? they're one of the leaders. Um, in. they're one of the big names in the ESD gun.

Market but they mostly do like really high-end high voltage. like, uh, you know, substation testing equipment. They do like impulse testing equipment. all sorts of stuff.

um, even the secondhand stuff on eBay Some of their gear goes for like 20 30 grand. Something like that. It's just yeah, it's crazy. So anyway, oh, that one's longer.

Okay, by the way, if you want to have a look at the uh, head on that one. There you go. We've got a Uh output resistor on that the other one's not actually connected. it's just the single output there.

So the other connectors there just for you know, uh. physical mounting? Okay, there we go. There, we go. we're we're opening up.

I've I've had it off for many hours, so should be safe enough. but I'll be careful. do I forgot the four screws on here. looks like the panel's going to.

oh actually I could probably just get the panel out and that'll probably just lift out and I can probably change the pot. didn't think of that self Tapp is into plastic there. so oh, one of one of those is busted too. Oh so yeah, these things aren't designed for Mass uh.

production. hence the uh, you know the power Supply on this thing. it's just built into like an off-the-shelf case kind of thing. Like there's nothing like you know? Um, yeah, there are.

They're a low volume thing. Oh, there we go. There we go. Oh beautiful.

We got big spaces like that and we're in. Aha. We got our Nikad battery pack there by the looks of it, so there's nothing else in here and the other connection, as I said, is not connected. uh, at all.

So a couple of big standoffs there. still. Oh, that was another. There was another one, another screw in there, which I uh, totally missed.

So I'm going to screw that back on there like that. But there you go, we're in and uh, of course you're going to have a big high voltage. One of the main things in this is. well, you're going to have big storage capacitor so it'll be, you know, 150 Paa farads or whatever standard storage capacity you have.

and oh look, yeah, yeah, there we go. That's what I expected it to to be all potted away. and there's the custom high voltage relay in there. In fact, they got a couple of them cuz this one can actually do positive and negative polarity so it's got to actually, uh, flip the polarity in the thing.

Um, and of course yeah, there are standards. uh for the pulse shape I are looking to design your own and that's what I was looking at. So anyway, um, this won't be your reverse engineering I won't go too far into this. but uh, not sure of the date code on this.
It's you know, like early '90s maybe? so you know it'll have an early 90 90s micro in there. it's all through hole uh stuff. So then we have our high voltage power supply board here and that'll be uh, adjustable so that'll have some opto coupler, uh, feedback and they'll be able to get that. and then it looks like, um, yeah, that's our switch in and this is the output pulse.

Network So like you can actually get different uh, like size, capacitors and pulse. Uh, you know RCL networks in these things um, designed to, you know, do the specific uh pulse shape for a specific uh standard. but anyway, um so that's all potted. Yep, yeah, it's all potted.

There's nothing doing there. so I don't know. Let's get this top board out and see what we can do. So we got the knob off there.

yeah, that just pulls off and uh, we've got a oh, that's a metal plate there. that's nice so looks like I'm going to have to get the whole thing out I'm not sure. Oh yeah, uh. the ground connection.

No, that's not going to help if I get get that out. Uh yeah. I don't know. Uh yeah.

I'll get back to you. Um, this is all sort of oh, it's actually right. It's actually uh, solded in over there. so I'll undo that.

Go. That's annoying right down in there. One of the wires is that goes to ground. There is actually covering that screw that's really annoying.

Jeez, these things are really jam-packed So there's the battery pack that I've got to replace and uh oh yeah, there you go. All in series. Looks like it's got a temp sensor in there. that's really rather nice.

So so yeah, no worries I'll just reassemble it with a um, suitable uh, nikad uh pack. although so yeah. I don't have a tab welder I I do have a tab welder kit but I've never built it so oh, is that a fuse in there? I think it might be and the LCD just pops out of there standard Hatachi chipset and is a sharp jobby look at that made in Japan all the best stuff's made in Japan there's no numbers on that I I Can't see anything at any angle. um, they've completely nuded that or they've ordered it blank from the manufa.

I'm going to have to get different angle lights on that, but I can't I can't see anything. Unbelievable. And yes, I have checked that there are no uh, residual uh, capacitor voltages on this uh board here or nothing. uh, feeding back out here so no worries.

Um, but yeah, this is really quite convoluted design. it's God it's just really annoying construction not only to uh, assemble, but to repair as well. No. I definitely have to desolder that otherwise this board ain't coming out unbelievable.

The more I look at this, uh, the more I think what the photon? um, how do you get this apart like I'm looking at this metal plate here, right? It looks like there's a tab down there which has to be desolder tab up there which has to be desoldered and then all the wires are directly solded in there with hardly any room. you know, like hardly any room whatsoever. Maybe if I get those desolder those Tads. but I can't really get in there without like burning all the plastic and everything.
so it looks like I'm going to have to get out the grounding nut here, but also the grounding nut over here and then like lift this whole assembly out. So then I can EAS like more easily get access to the solder here and here. But once this board's out, okay, there is a board to board interconnect down in there, so this should just come apart. But then you've got this metal plate here with these like plastic holders like plastic things on them like they're not spaces.

They're like I know something that holds them in there and I don't see how like I can just get that plate off. It's almost as if like to get that pot out. I've got to like desolder all of the switches like that whole assembly. I've got it like desolder just to get out the rotary encoder like I that's what it looks like.

Um, I I was able to get the nut out of there and sort of like this looks like it might thread its way out. So this is all like everything solded into place like after this is all assembled. like you know, the high voltage output connector. It's all like you can't unscrew that and get it off.

You've got to. You've just got to unsolder everything. So this is just. ah, this is really freaking annoying.

I think this screws out. It doesn't seem to push, seems to be like the only way. It's sort of like coming out. So I I don't know without getting this stud out.

I Can't get the uh, the metal work out because it's wedged in between the plastic here here. This thing's just wow. Wow, this is a master class in how not to design a product. I No it does have a thread there so maybe I could, maybe I could spin that around.

but uh yeah please please do Not design your products like this. This is just oh unbelievable. Wow. not only like for assembly, but for if you ever have to repair this thing.

I mean you know mechanical switches, encoders, and stuff that you might want to fix cuz these are like long high value like long-term products and you might have to repair them like this cuz they're worthwh. oh yeah, yeah, it's it. kind of. It's not.

It's not a threaded insert in there, but there you go. Got the damn thing out. Unbelievable. I can now kind of lift this thing out, but no.

I've got to get in there and desolder all these connections before I can lift that out. Had to break the seal on the switch so all that's got to lift out and get unsold of that and hopefully I can get it out. but a damn it. I think I've got the connection wires desoldered I've got the output connector.
Hey hello hello hello. look at that. What? Oh no I forgot the brown wire. it goes to the ground.

Apart from that, we're good. Oh yeah, that goes to the side over there. Damn. Look at this.

Unbelievable. and it turns out that brown wire actually didn't I thought it went to the ground there, but it was just like pinched a little bit there. It actually goes right through the wiring loom and goes over to the battery pack over here. So yeah, that's just a wire directly from the battery pack.

Anyway Tada we are in there. you go that whole assembly. So now maybe I stand a chance when not. This is only first step one of the process.

Uh now I've got to sort of like maybe desolder these tabs and extract this board. Get these boards apart. Yes, yes, there we go. We're in, we're in.

and we have a genuine bodge up here with a cap. Look at that and uh, there's the board to board interconnect. So now, yes, I can get in there and uh well. I'll check out the solded make sure it's just not a dodgy solder joint on that pop uh pot pot encode I keep calling it a pot.

you know, old school this is all hand soldered too. none of that wave soldering rubbish. So anyway I'll check that out. but uh yeah and you can get in there of course and measure uh, the encoder with a uh continuity tester just to see that it, um, it beeps at you when you do it in.

One Direction Well there you have it. I do believe that is the pot there very a bit how you doing like you know I wouldn't be trusting those I mean it could could just be as something as simple as a dodgy joint over time there cuz you know, look at, look at the flux residue on these. They're not quite dry as a dead dingo's donga. but you know I'm going to like retouch those and uh, let let's let's have a squiz right putting any look look at that.

oh boy oh boy oh look at that. It flowed through so the original solder wasn't didn't flow through the V are there I should have should have measured this before I before I did anything but I a It's got that old school smell so I'm going to actually desolder this and I'm going to put some freshy in there and it's more likely that the pots failed of course. but you know I mean it's just those joints don't instill a lot of confidence in me I don't know, would you expect more for your $10,000 ESD gun? And of course you have to look at the joints at the other end. uh, the other end as well.

Yeah, these are pretty how you doing so let's just retouch those up. That's better than a bought one. It looks a bit crusty due to the flux residue, but we can clean that up. but yeah, goes off to this chippity chip over here which is I don't know it's under the like I swear I don't see a way to get that plate out I think all of these switches have to come out.
This is an entire assembly and so if I want to get that encoder out I reckon I've got to take off all those switches. Just like unbelievable. Now what you got going on here is it's not your usual five pin jobby here. It looks like there's at least four there and I presume these two as well.

so it looks like it's a six pin jobby. these two are grounded and these so I've resolder all these and if you notice here is a chip, I presume that's a micro or something that's doing the rotary uh encoding detection right. So you'll notice that these are all going out to a single in line array here. and you guessed it, that is going to be a single in line resistor package because um, these contacts in here, um, they you know, make break and you got to have a pull up or pull down resistor.

In this case, it' be a pull up because it looks like we got. well, presumably this is ground here given the flood f this resistor across here, we're talking 20 20K Okay, is that a common jobby? Okay, usually they have pin up one end H 10. Okay, like that. So what we can do now is measure between ground and here and here's where I need I'm reaching under here I've got it mounted above so I can oh oh 18.

Ohms, there you go. So that's grounded. Okay, so if we actually put it on buzzer mode. so if I turn that One Direction it's not doing anything.

Turned it the other other direction. So we'll try the other pin over here like this. and I would have presume that that goes in the other direction. but that one.

That one does nothing in either direction, right? We got nothing. Zippity DOA So what does this one do? Yes, I've got pointy. Uh. I've got these probes.

They are spring loaded. That one does. Oh, that one looks like it does it when it. Oh no, no, no, it's kind of doing something there.

Try this one. so this one does it in the other direction. but this one here does absolutely nothing in in either direction. whereas you'd expect it to do exactly the same as this one here.

so I'm not sure what the outer ones are doing exactly. So it looks like that. There is an encoder problem, so it looks like it's a physical encoder. Damn, it wasn't just the shoulder joints.

but that was certainly worth a go. And you'll notice that that's uh 20K there. So we're getting our pullup. We're getting our pull-up resistor there.

except when this one's usually low. There you go. 5. Ohms.

So um, yeah. I Reckon like you can't have a pin which is clearly connected to the encoder. You can't have that doing nothing. So it looks like we got a dodgy encoder.

but off hand I don't I don't recall a pin out like that. so I know I'm not. Maybe I have to have a good look, but uh, off hand I don't recall a pin out like that. But anyway I hope it's not some special jobby.

but yeah. I I think the encode is dead I think that's fairly conclusive. But as I said I think this entire assembly has to come off. So I think I have to Deco I have to desolder all of these switches and this whole plate assembly will pop away just like I mean come on.
Bloody Murphy Bloody Hily Desolder Hey I desoldered all of them and they all came out. They all came out. look at that. Yeah, that is one complete assembly, you bastard.

Just unbelievable. Thanks a lot. Anyway, what do we got down in there? Oh, it's a 4093. Okay, no worries.

Um, and I Date Code 94 There you go. So well it's upside down. all the electrons are going to fall out. So yeah, and date code 95 on the maximum down here? Yeah, so we're talking 95 9 probably manufactured 96 something like that.

Um yeah, that's about the uh vintage I expected. All right I got that encod out of there and there it is there. It's a six pin jobby. Um yeah, off hand.

can't say I've seen that pin out before. So I'm going to have to do some searching on that. There is no part number on that at all. So I don't know we're talking.

You know that early '90s rotor encoder six pin jobby with that footprint and um well you know it has to have that footprint. Uh, we can do away with the um, you know the mounting post there. But so if I connect to those two pins and I rotate that we can see that that beeps beeps, beeps and then this one out here will beep beep beep like every not quite. but this side over here is bugged.

There you go just well and truly buggered. It's just open. You get nothing on that one. So but we do get this contact out here.

which does its thing. So yeah, that contact there is bugged. Um so yeah I need a new like? you know you can't really get into that and fix it. Oh maybe you absolutely desperate? um I don't know.

but yeah no. I need an identical pin out and I don't know? Well I put on the twitters to see if anyone identifies it, but um yeah I can't readily find it. More research required. Well, it's a day later and I asked on the Twitter verse and the EV blog Forum as well and nobody could identify this rotary encoder.

Nobody could identify even a modern equivalent to this pin out or the manufacturer at all. You know, some people guessed uh, Burns some people guessed Alps You know C and K and all The Usual Suspects But um, no. nobody can identify that pin out. so it's a special snowflake.

I think um, please leave it in the comments down below if you can actually identify this anyway. Pinout wise, it's not your usual uh, two pin uh, quadrature or three pin? uh, quadrature? uh output. Um, but I think it is some sort of incremental thing and obviously I think this side is designed for One Direction This side's designed for the other and this one is busted, which is why or is is open. It makes no contact inside, which is why it only detects in One Direction um at all.

and it doesn't seem to be like a binary, uh output thing or a gray code or something like that. I Think it's just a regular, incremental, uh encoder and it's like you just got two contacts on each side for each. Direction So yeah, not not like an absolute uh encoder or anything like that. I think it's an incremental jobby, but yeah.
anyway. um, the only thing I've got left really is to probably try and take this apart like I can. Well, I could solder on, try and figure out the exact operation of this thing although we don't know that pin because it's open um and try and replace it with a modern one uh, modern, functionally equivalent one. although if it's you know Oddball then we might not be able.

You know you might have to. Well, you could. If you're absolutely desperate, you might have might have to design like a dakoda board or something that that like re-encodes it into um, the format that the processor is expecting. they little uh heat stakes in there so it looks like it's like looks like all glued around there.

I don't hang on I can actually slice down the side there. but I don't like my chances of this coming apart and then being like it's really low profile. um so it's not much room in there. so I don't like my chances of this coming apart and being able to do a repair job inside and then putting it back together.

but I'll give it a go like there's no, there's no loss right? But oh gez. Anyway, um yeah, just a reference screenshot of what it looks like. So I might actually release this video as a part one I Know people don't like it when I don't finish the repairs, but maybe a wider audience will. Someone might know someone might have seen that.

Um, but yeah. Twitter and the Forum nothing that's really ugly I'm not liking it at all I think we're going to come a Guta if we try and get this out I can try and maybe drill out those in there. it's a real interesting Arrangement there I don't know what the heck's going on? Surely somebody has come across one of these. It can't be a special oneoff design for hily I don't like? no, come on.

Murphy couldn't bite me on the ass that badly. Surely no. so what? I'm going to do. Sorry, but I think I'm going to leave this as a part one and please leave it in the comments down below if uh, you have seen this so I'll put it out to the wide audience and please help.

um cuz ideally I want like a drop in replacement for this and I thought oh yeah, foldy rotor encoder EAS it be five five pining quadrature incremental Arrangement right and no worries, right? I'll you know physically, height, shaft, and stuff I might have to modify but um yeah I yeah n I got this bastard. look at it. so please leave it in the comments down below. Um, if there's a modern, even if you can get the original one, even if you can't buy it anymore I don't know.

might be able to take apart old product and obviously I can't get like another heul I might have to, you know, contact them. Maybe maybe they've got a spare switch kicking around somewhere I don't know. Anyway, yeah, um so if nobody can identify this next step, yeah I'm going to have to get medieval on its ass. Although before I get medieval on its ass.
um I don't want to destroy it I will uh, have to like hook up Re rehook it up to a circuit and scope multi Channel scope and measure it and actually get the uh profile of how it um, you know how it encodes in there and then you know, see if we can find like an equivalent modern replacement and then bodge it in somehow. Anyway, if you like that video, please give it a big thumbs up. As I said uh, link down below to the Uh EV blog website where I've got the exclusive unboxing and testing video of this puppy if you want to see it actually working because I did actually get it um working I fluked it like reset it multiple times and it did pop up to the 16 K Vol uh mode but normally it pops up on 200 volt mode when you first power it on um and I can't increase the voltage because the incre because the part doesn't go in the increased Direction only goes in the decreased Direction Unbel Unbelievable. Catch you next time.

Avatar photo


25 thoughts on “Eevblog 1572 – haefely 16kv esd tester teardown repair part 1”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MitzaMaxwell says:

    Hi Dave, when I was studying electronics engineering at technical college in the 1990s, the CE marking requirements were introduced so it became part of the curriculum. We students were given the task of developing and constructing all the necessary test equipment.
    My task was to develop an instrument like the ESD gun you have just examined and because Greenland is part of Denmark I also had to make a 25kV version, because it is demanding in arctic countries due to the very dry air that personal discharges reach that high voltage.
    The anonymous IC may be a SAB80C535 they were popular back then.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars stivep1 says:

    To open it, you need to use bit made for milling machine that has flat surface tip. You see four points where ultrasonic welding was applied. Drill it just to the depth of 1mm. After that it is ready to be opened.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars 1kreature says:

    I can't believe you desoldered all those switches. The tops of em with the panel besel/metal pops off 🤣

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Keri Szafir says:

    Ha! So annoying to discombobulate. Desoldering gun to the rescue! Lovely build though.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Razvan Tataroiu says:

    Swiss "quality"…

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jonathan Hendry says:

    Hey Dave you should put out a multimeter with a video output. Then YouTubers wouldn't have to mess around pointing a camera at their meter.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Technoman says:

    Wow did you get that from the Ghostbusters?

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Peter House says:

    Another great, entertaining, in my niche video. Bomus points for more vocal agony expressed without shedding a drop of blood. Thank you.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tom Miller says:


  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Daniel Taon says:

    Just dip whole encoder in contact spray for few hours.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jay M says:

    Never did like the usage of, "If you have to ask you cannot afford it…" – it's flawed reasoning. So….what's worth 5-figures on this thing?

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Frank Siler says:

    That is one severe-looking instrument.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Paul says:

    Don't zap yourself with this puppy fiddling around inside laddy

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars PradoLover says:

    Had it off for many hours 😂😂😂

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rhett Coulter says:

    you're certainly no "mend it Mark"

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Clifford Poddar says:

    Drill out the black dots on the encoder. Those likely connect to the “outer” front case, and slides through the encoder to the back, and then are melted to lock the case. If u drill those black dots, the encoder should come apart.

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars rodlophus says:

    Best bug zapper money can buy!

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tested to Destruction says:

    Have you found one Dave? I think ive got one on a old board here i can test and send you if its the same …


  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BlackIce504 says:

    I have come across them but never used them in circuits, but i thought the encoders need a voltage to work?

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Alyx says:

    Personally i would just grab a regular 5 pin encoder (assuming its a push button type, 3 pin if not) and wire it around, i hoping something works
    of course being careful not to short anything out, maybe put a 1k resistor on each pin or something to be safe

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Airton Granero says:

    This was soldered in a soldering wave machine those clean solder joints with little solder and the pins getting out with almost no soldering are typical. This is why this was nasty to reflow.

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars bruce pickess says:

    Hi i used to do a lot of ESD testing and assessment on company equipment as part of EMC testing and certification and UK / US post office compliance evaluation. We used Schaffner Equipment which was also very expensive but high quality .We used 7 KV for UK/ European requirements and 16KV for US requirements. The two types of tips/probes were for either contact discharge (pointed tip) and air discharge (rounded tip). Also the simulated human body impedance varied with authority's complliance conditions.

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tim C says:

    Its worth trying to get a bit of switch cleaner into the top of the shaft before carving it open. That is less destructive and doesn't cost anything.

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Robert B says:

    1000 th like 🎉 👍👍

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Eike Swegat says:

    I found it on german ebay and posted the link the forum, hope it helps.

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