Hi. In previous videos, we've taken a look at these little Rd Tech power supply modules and I'll link in the videos at the end if you haven't seen it. But they've been incredibly popular and I've been watching over the years as they've been developing better and better power supply products to the point where they practically own the market for these little power supply you know, stand-alone modules and they're really quite remarkable. So I thought I'd take a look at the latest one.

it's the ID six double, O six one. It's like a front panel type solution like this and I have the optional Kayson So we've done several videos on this companies our products before. They're not actually our D tickets hen's you reading technology but I'll continue to call them our D tech anyway. that's the website will link them in and they're over on Aliexpress so I'll link them in down below I Do believe other sellers like resell them, but I'd recommend buying directly from the Rd tech arm.

Ally Express store this one in particular 360 watt output power, 6 amps, a maximum output current zero to 60 volts output, and a it's just a buck converter so you need to put you can have anywhere from 6 to 70 volts of DC input and that will then give you a corresponding range just I believe 1 volt below whatever input voltage you feed in. So that's really quite remarkable in like a you know, a three under power supply switching. Of course you can't get any linear stuff in something this tiny, but this one goes for 53 dollars without the Wi-Fi module or 57 dollars. That's Yankee bucks with the Wi-Fi module.

So you might as well get the Wi-Fi module with it and it comes with two optional cases. I've got the big one which we can build in our own power supply into. Power supply is separate and it comes with all the bits. The case is $32 for the long one or twenty one dollars for a shorter case like this.

It just has our binding post terminals on the back as we've seen in that previous videos and you can power them from any external power supply you have available. But you know I Want something to be nice? I Sprung for the bigger cases, but as I said, you can use any power supply you can salvage out of any old gear or anything like that from 6 up to 70 volts. Obviously, if you get a 6 volt one, you might be able to get 5 volts out of it. but that's all you can get so it's not a true Sepik converter one where you can feed in 6 volts and then get 0 to 30 volts out.

It's only a buck converter now. I Do actually have a power supply come in, but it's in the mail. Let's take a look inside. All you get is just this info card.

You can go download the datasheet. that's great. I Don't like having manuals in there? That's just yeah. they're pointless these days.

And we've got our little module. Isn't it cute? Look at that. Absolutely fantastic. For under 60 bucks U.s.

that is a complete 300 plus what switching power supply with the user interface and everything? we'll take that off. So there's a little Wi-Fi module that's only 4 bucks extra. Complete no-brainer Whoa. When you get it, this is a temperature probe adapter which we plug into the board and we got a spare little surface mount fuse and a couple of spade lugs that we can then plug into our whatever power supply we choose to use.

Yes! So this thing really is quite impressive. Oh I Love the buttons. It does have a knob that's got indents on it. It's push abort.

Yep. I Haven't looked at the user interface yet. It's got an output on/off button. It's only a single output.

And one of the interesting things is that the first glance you might think this: Center terminal here is an earth terminal like mains. Earth Terminal I should typically find on a metal chassis. You know LED Power supply because it's green and well, that makes sense, but it's not. Look at the little indicator there.

This is actually for the battery charging mode. So in battery charging mode, this is the negative terminal. and this is the positive battery charge in terminal and they've color-coded a green. Why? we've got USB here.

Presumably you can do like firmware updating stuff. I Set V Set Memory well looks like we've got nine different memories there. Fantastic and a nice new power button and the buttons light up and a reasonable size display and that just snaps into the front like that. I won't do it now cuz then might be hard to get back out.

But yeah, they've really upped their game over the years of course. I've done the very famous video where one are there are power supplies caught on fire because they had a shorted out a ceramic cap. but they you know they fixed that pretty quickly because it was just a physical location thing. a link in that video.

it's very. It's quite educational. anyway. there's a little socket for our fuse so it looks like we have a little tiny SMD output views.

That's nice anyway. nice honking relay there and I'm not sure if those caps are in parallel or not. You shouldn't have that much capacitance on the output of a lab power supply. but anyway.

I'm eighty volt caps I'm ECD a brand I Don't know anything about them. Really not a huge fan on this thing, but it does have a fan. It will be temperature controlled. a big step, freestanding honking resistor there.

so that's interesting. Another fuse up there, so that'll be our input. So we've got an input fuse and an output fuse here. This goes over to our temperature probe you I won't try reverse engineering this.

Of course it's not open source. They don't release the schematics, but I Believe us, some people have reverse-engineered the Rd tech ones. Did I even do it in a video I think I Anyway, we've got our main our display a processor board down here. It looks like it's got an arm flavored processor down there.

can I get that board out I'll try. No, it doesn't look like I'm going to be able to get that out because of the binding posts that are soldered in there. So unfortunately and that's not going to work anyway. I do like the binding post there.

they kind of like Oh remind me of like the Agile at once. The hole in the side looks adequately sized. those they've got the middle on the bottom they don't have and some metal on the top like that so they're not too bad. Certainly seen a lot worse than that.

So I don't mind those. The general feel and quality of this thing. you know it really is quite remarkable, especially for you know, a sub $60 power supply. and this is completely standalone.

Like you can just buy this the minimum for 50 to you dollars feed-in whatever voltage you wanted to hear from any power supply you don't need any case, you could just sit it on your bench like that and you're gonna have a working power supply up to 300 watts or the capability of your input power supply. So yeah, that's just like unbelievable how the market has just you know, they've just blown away this power supply market. So anyway, our purse in the pudding. So 300 watts, it's a 95% efficiency.

You'd be talking 15 watts in this thing. and of course you'd need air flow to I Get that out. But yeah, it's It's certainly doable. Sorry, it's a 360 watts anyway.

I'm here's some basic specs: As I said: does 0 to 60 volts out? It depends on the capability of power supply. 10 millivolts are resolution output current setting 0 to 6 ends with 1 milliamp resolution. That's absolutely fantastic. Apparently it's got a battery charging mode as well with 10 millivolt resolutions.

Anyway, output voltage accuracy is claimed at 0.3% plus 3. output current accuracy 0.5 plus 5. That's plenty 100 millivolts, some output ripple. so of course that'll change with the output current of course.

So it's not the world's best low output ripple power supply. but that's not its job, it's just diet. Job is to just be a cheap, general-purpose high power lab power supply and it can do capacity and energy measurement as well. I Want to check that out and that's absolutely fantastic.

It claims there's a 2 percent error on that and a 1 volt drop. That's why I said if you feed in, say a 24 volt. If you've got a 24 volt power supply pair in this thing, you should be able to get to zero to 23 volts. It doesn't come with a backup battery though, which is interesting than to be for your real time clock so not necessary for general operation.

But if I've got one, I'll whack it in there. So we've got the optional Wi-Fi module here so we'll just work that in there. Make sure the pins are lined up and Bob's your uncle. We're good to go.

sorry our temperature probe that'll go in there, but all we do is just feed in and power supply into there and it'll do the business. So I'm gonna hook up my external supply here which is on only 188 what capable so we can't push it all the way unless I Parallel various supplies in. these are not the proper cage clamp ones there. The lever ones move you what do you expect for the price, right? So we should now have a fully working power supply.

and yes, you could actually power this from batteries and you could and charge in tech are stuffed into this case if you wanted to build a portable power supply. Or you can even build into your own custom case whenever you want to do. And the bench supply is on. but the power supply is off, just residual.

It's our drawing 611 milli watts there. so let's turn it on, Tada, see it boot up right? And DC Power! Wow, that's really quick booting isn't it? And the quiescent supply? Nine hundred and fifty million watts or so. The screen is really quite good, even at a high angle like this. Quite readable so it's all color coded on the sides.

Quite nice. There's not much glare on that, Of course if I hold it and put it up to the lights, you can see my lights there. But anyway. yep, that screens pretty good.

No workers and it's a pretty info dense display. Look at this. so this is our output voltage. Of course, this is our output current showing zero because that's not the set voltage and our output power like this.

So three decimal places on the current as we saw before in the specs, 10 millivolts resolution for voltage and 10 milliwatts resolution for the power there. and we're in constant voltage mode. It's showing that we're using em memory address as zero there. so it's got actually 10 memory positions.

Does it? and don't know what the tick is anyway? Oh, it's reading 26 degrees here in the lab. but it's You know it's near enough. Anyway, that's using that temperature sensor probe that's plugged into the back and milli watt hours. there's our capacity.

Brilliant showing our Celsius and Fahrenheit there. Now it's got over voltage protection over current protection I Believe they're only like software protections as in the previous supplies I Don't believe it's got proper hardware cro, independent hardware crowbar protection self. the software fails a locks up or does whatever then I Don't think that's going to save your product from, you know, over voltage. the whole idea.

If you don't know of over voltage over current protection, let's say you're pairing up. You've built your new SuperDuper expensive board and it's got $10,000 worth of parts on it, which is not uncommon, trust me. I've worked on boards that have many tens of thousands of dollars worth of parts on and you cross your fingers and you pair up the power supply for the first time and you fight pairing your five volt rail from your bench power supply. but oops, you've accidentally set it to 12 volts or something like that.

If someone comes along or they knock the knob well, you would set your over voltage protection to say five Point One volts. So regardless of you know we stupid marketing manager comes along and twiddles with the knob and stuff like that. You don't want to blow up your tens of thousands of dollars worth of prototype hardware. So that's yeah, that's an idiot marketing protections mode.

Okay, it's currently set to Y five volts and six Point One ants and our input. There you go. thirty 2.01 So it's measuring our input voltage. very nice.

so let's turn it on. There we go and it sort of like I Don't know if it ramps up like that way after you get the scope on it, but let's try that again. it's ramping down. so it's ramping.

I Don't Know if it has it a ramp like that. It should be sharper of course. but there you go. it's set to 5.0.

Whoa, we're getting 5.0. Oh, by the way. I Think they have learnt their lesson that using those multi-layer ceramic caps on the board that caught fire. So look at that.

They're not using our Mlcc's anymore using those leader ones. Those are film jobbies or are they Leaders ceramics. Either way, we're not gonna give a stress fracture problem, that's for sure. Okay, let's hook it up to the lab Electronic load I Just got a constant current of our one ampere.

so I will just switch that on. Just the default five volts out. So point nine, nine, seven so that's accurate. The voltage of course is drop.

You could see there that it was actually up. Yep, it's spot-on there to the least significant digit. No worries whatsoever. and of course we're going to have some.

The reason this doesn't match is because we've got the loss in the little piddly cables here. We could of course do a remote sensing so it won't be lazy. Dave I will actually connect the external sense and by the way, when you're doing the external sense, make sure you get it around the right way. I've got the sense.

This is the sense banana plug on the inner part of here if I actually put the sense on the outer part so you're not going to be including the the voltage drop across this banana plug here. so just make sure that your Sense one is in there like that and then your load on the other side. It's a little trap for young players. Okay, now I've enabled sense mode over here so it would have read the voltage from here instead of the input terminals.

So if we switch this on, the voltage here should now match the one here because if there's no voltage drop across the lines, cool, So this is more than meeting its specs. Very nice. So if I want to set my current, all I've got to do is press I set here and you can see it. Put a little purple highlight there.

and of course you can move that digit like that. All right. So I'll set it to what? Six amps now. So five volts or six amps there we go.

Five point Nine nine, Five Point Nine Nine eight. It's measuring bang-on and we're now joined 30 Watts from this puppy and when I switch the load off, you can see that the fan to stop so it is certainly temperature control to switch it on and the fans going to be running but can hear a little were maybe but nothing offensive. Okay, so I'm going to go into Voltage Set here I Really don't like the the beat beat like that. sounds like a Geiger counter or something like that.

Anyway, there's no real velocity control properly on here. but of course if we want to go do our 30 volts, we can just go thirty into like that and bingo straight up to thirty. And another thing is, unless you go into some sort of art mode, none of these buttons will do anything and that's what you want. These control shouldn't do anything unless you choose a particular mode, so that's nice.

Tell you what. One thing I think is a bit of an oversight. If you go voltage set okay and you want to go say 30 volts, you have to be hit. Enter: you can't just press that.

it doesn't work I Would have liked to have seen into like it'd be the same. And for those playing along at home for the efficiency at 60 watts with this voltage input, because it could certainly change focus. A bastard could certainly change with the input voltage. you'd have to fully characterize this thing.

So it's only about eighty. six point eight percent efficient. so it's dissipating nine. Watts This thing.

but it's not getting hot. it's not blowing much at all. Inductor: They're fine. The heatsink can put my finger on that.

No worries whatsoever. So that's that's doing hunky-dory now. This case supports a couple of different art power supplies. One of them is a standard 150 millimeter by 50 millimeter and my power supply just turned up today.

It's a mean. Well, our SP 320 series I got it from far Nels and it's a it's a 320 watt job so not quite the 360 watt max capability. but it was cheap and mean well or you know, a reasonably decent brand power supply. But as I said, you could like salvage a power supply out of practically anything and whack it.

In this case it's it's big enough to do that you may. Okay, it may not have the standard mounting holes like this one is going to have, so this one was our 83 Aussie bucks. So roughly about the same price as the actual unit itself, but you can get cheaper on a try to get the recommended one from another Aliexpress store but they refunded my money and just didn't send it. Yeah, you can get a much cheaper there.

There's tons of different variants of our power supplies out here. This one has a little art, temperature-controlled art fan and the case comes with all the mounting hardware, the fan a little, our fan, temperature controller with a probe and all the cables and all the screws and all the mains connectors all pre-terminated and insulated. Brilliant. Okay, a mini teardown inside this.

meanwhile power supply doesn't that look really good? I Rubicon main cap down here. very nice old-school dip and that Lynx look at this single sided as you'd expect, it all looks quite nice. lots of our liberal silastic down there. And what are our output cups? Nippon chemi-con output caps Absolutely fantastic.

This is Bobby Dazzler for all you fan fan boys out there, get it. I'm here a week anyway? Um yeah, this looks really top quality. Looks ceramic fuse. They're worth every cent.

These mean well ones. quite nice. and is that a temperature sensor? They're running off farther than primary side switching trainees I think it might be. Pro tip: Don't daydream when you're installing your power supply cuz you'll install it backwards, don't? Well, that went together nicely.

That's a beautiful build. It's even got the standoffs built into there for the temperature controller which supports up to our six to 70 volts power supply. Same as the module itself and it comes with all the cables. They're all pre done.

Absolutely brilliant. I Don't recommend having them tinned like that when they go into the clamp connect this but the only thing you didn't get was a couple of shape proof washers which would have been nicer. but yeah, everything's just pre done. Don't disorder anything, just screw it all in.

Bob's your uncle? Well, they just a reminder if you do want a properly earth case. Not that this power supply has an Earth terminal on it because as I said, that one is not an Earth terminal. Maybe you could add your own to the back or something like that if you're really wanted to. You just have to remember to scrape off some of the paint on the bottom side of here because this case is earth.

But if you want it to go to here or you can add your own separate wire to proper earth, like whatever. Okay, so quickly before I put it in the case. I Just want to run some basic characteristic performance curves just to get an idea of the efficiency over various output power. So I'll just start with our 32 volts cuz that's the maximum there and it might be a typical voltage.

for example, 0 to 30 volt power supply and just a reminder it's taking nine hundred and forty odd milli watts. quiescent. Okay, I'm sure 150 watts output here. And really, there's the thermal.

the hot spot. the biggest hot spot down there is like 47 degrees and I can I can certainly touch that with my touch, the heat sink with my finger and I really can't you feel anything? Nothing on the inductor over here. So and that's dissipating now there's six watts that's at 150 watts output at 24 volts. So firmly it's okay.

But of course if you take it right up to it, so 320 and I set it to 48 volts total. So I've got them in series in there we go 48 volts input. so that's going to be exactly the output of my mean world power supply. But of course the thing about this is whilst it is a 360 what capable power supply really because of its maximum are 6 amp output current capability.

You can't really get that 323 60 watts unless you're at the extreme ends of the voltage and most people just aren't going to be powering things at 48 volts. you know, 50 volts a 60 volts. So yeah, you might have that capability. But if you don't have the output current and then alright so you take all that data and bingo please excuse the crew.

D The model didn't have time to build a scale or to paint it. the efficiency versus output current for a 25 volt output voltage. for a 0 to 6 amps that they gave me 0 to 150 watts. So that's you know, typical of what sort of a maximum most people would use it at and I did it I Got two characteristic curves for different input voltages.

So for a 32 volt input and for a 48 volt input, this is the 48 volt input is the one that I'll be using with my mean will and you can put in a higher voltage of course, but at a 25 volt output a higher voltage, you're going to get less efficiency. You expect a drop here. There could be some inverse in the characteristic, but that's unlikely. Generally a higher voltage, you'll see the same curve again.

Not sure what happened to this data point over here. I entered my data correctly. maybe I measured it wrong. Anyway, there is a little step down here at our 4 amps which is rather interesting.

Maybe it switches switching mode there the the controller at 4 episode. that's interesting. Both of them showed that and you know it's a pretty decent efficiency. so you know like 90 I 95 odd percent.

but the efficiency does drop with the output voltage. So I've done another little short one where got down to like a like a maximum of 88 at 10 volts output. But anyway, you could do these characteristic curves for every single parameter until the cows come home, but you know it's pretty decent. I Thought it was supposed to have a temperature controlled fan but like it's switched off like the unit is off and the fans going full blast and I can hear that.

Sure I've got the lid off but still it's going like the clappers. So I don't like that at all. unless I don't know there's an internal jumper or something out and I maybe have to read the manual but I not happy with that. It's constantly going alright.

let's check the ramp on time from 0 to 5 volts. Bingo! There we go. that's about. That's 50 milliseconds per division, so about 50 milliseconds there.

There's no a bad overshoot or anything like that, so that's clean as a whistle. All right, let's try a 0 to 45 volts same time base. There we go exactly the same, but you'll notice if we switch it off it is reading on the output terminals. Look how long it takes for those output caps to discharge.

So yeah. large output capacitance. as I said, not ideal for a LED power supply because when it goes into constant current mode, those caps can potentially deliver over current. So yeah, gonna be careful of that And off let's see how she ramps down.

I Mean we've only got the the 1 Meg load on the import. Bingo there it is. Ramps right down. it's you know it's clean, but yeah, take some oil.

check this out. We've got common mode noise to buggery. and yeah, it's not great is it? And I've done whole videos on that No Well unfortunately I'm now using an isolated scope and it's still there, so that's obviously coming either from the right and supply module and or from the mean will last supply and it's just passing straight through. So what I'm going to do now is pair it back from the lab bench power supply.

So we get rid of the mean world 1 and see if that goes away and well, nope, that's not coming from the mean well supply that's coming from the ridin module. Unbelievable. Look at that. Yep, that switching noises Absolutely horrible.

Wow I Mean that that is really terrible. That's that's under no-load So at 45 volts output, that is a 20 millivolts per division. I've changed my probe. Here we are at 50 millivolts per division.

Let's drop it down to 5 volts. Bingo, it's higher at 5 volts. Look at that. that's 100 millivolts per division.

So that's peak to peak. You know that's like a 100, 200, 300, 400 or might like 500 millivolts peak to peak. Of course if you take the RMS of it, it's not much. But I didn't like that.

that is, that's with no load. That's terrible. Miriah So this is with my Rohde & Schwarz Lab supply and let me switch the mean well in and that's exactly the same with the mean well supply there. Okay, that's off.

Let's switch on a 1 at 1 amp constant current load. Yeah, you can start to see the ripple there, so that's off. It'll be thinner and flat and on is that. So if we could just get rid of the high-frequency crap, this thing would be alright, but that's all over the shop.

Don't worry about that. that extra stuff out there is just a triggering thing there we go that's 6 amps. So I think that that's where they're getting their hundred milli volt spec font. Yeah, that'd be two divisions.

Yeah, so that would be a hundred millivolts. Our peak to peak is what the spec sheet says, but they don't tell you about the switching noise. so they're just talking about the lower frequency ripple there. Which at four microseconds per division, one two three and a half divisions there, you can calculate that yourself what the switching frequency is.

So that's five volts at 6 amps, Hundred millivolts per division. Like seven hundred milli volts peak-to-peak Not great is it? I Guess that's the price you pay for your fifty bucks at 300 watts in a tiny little module like this? It's yeah, and they've got to cut corners somewhere. But G's can add our own an output filtering, but that'll have to be another video. Well, let's go back to the key site here.

Five volts at six amps there we're looking at. You know, once again, the RMS noise isn't very bad if you want to look at it that way. Now for 70 millivolts, peak to peak. Alright, I knew this defibrillator tester had come in handy.

It's got a big-ass 50 ohm resistor in here, so let's a single shot capture. Are turning on 40 volts here and that'll give us a 30 watt load. Boom, There we go. nice and we'll switch that off and that's a clean switch off too.

And that is turning on into constant current mode. You can see the CC down there and that's clean as a whistle as well. and let's try that. Going from 45 volts into constant current mode.

Yep, there we go. A little bit of undershoot there, but that's no. it's not doing anything strange, not oscillating, so that's quite nice. and then we'll have it coming back out of constant current mode.

a little bit overshoot. There is a teeny-weeny bit. let me try that again. Little bit of overshoot there, but nothing to write home to your mom about.

So let's play around with the user interface here. you can I do shift lock by the way and that just locks absolutely everything so you can't do a thing. that's fantastic. So let's go into the menu shift menu and we're in like Flynn Now you have to press these arrow keys to go between the main options at the bottom.

there's a firmware for those playing along at home and here's where we set up all of our programmable settings. M0 is the one when you are pair up, will go up, will go, enter and we can go V set like that and we can just go 5 volts. So let's say we wanted 5 volts at half an amp for M0. Then we press enter like that and that will store it and it took me ages to figure out how to get out of the menu.

By the way, you've got a press that again there's you can't do shift menu or anything to get out of it and then we can simply recall those. So let's go out and we can go. That'll be our boot. So let's boot that up and see if it goes to 5 volts at half an amp.

There it is there. Beautiful. Then we can go to M1 for example and that'll show us and there's an option not to have that pop up. So anyway, if we want to select that, then 5 volts at now 6.1 amps there you go.

So in the main menu were set up here. what we've got is that call. Ok, that's actually as I just said - what call out like when you press the memory buttons it pops up with that menu. Pair on is whether or not you want the output to switch on when you actually pair it on.

Well, not usually. you know you wouldn't have that just in case beeper is obvious. logos obvious English There you go it for those. plan long at home English and Chinese That's it.

And the interface. We the options we have are USB Wi-Fi or TTL TTL doesn't work apparently USB It looks like it's going to give us a serial port from the U.s. be 115200 board and measure. Here is how fast you want the voltage reading on the display to read back.

So that's the sample rate basically. And in this menu here we can choose which display we actually want, our voltage and current display or a waveform display. So let's give that a bell. shall we get out of there? And Bingo! We got a graph so let's switch it on.

There you go and it just shows you the voltage and it just basically graphs over time. that's you know. Kind of neat, but yeah. I don't know.

new shoes and then if we boot up after selecting Wi-Fi it comes up with our Wi-Fi config. So I'm not sure what the deal is there. They've got both Android and iOS app. It's called Adipower.

I'm only a hundred and plus people have downloaded so we'll install that. Wi-Fi is not connected connected. Slave address says it was connected. It's not slave address.

Can you have more than one? Probably if I press connector says and connect it but it doesn't like turn green or anything like that. I don't see anything changing. Nope. I ain't working well that Wi-Fi didn't work at all.

I couldn't find the device in the list of Wi-Fi products. so I don't know what the deal is. The manuals are not the best. Let's just say that anyway, USB does work.

It shows up. I just plugged it in Windows 10 and it showed up as a serial port. Unfortunately I've tried a terminal program I can't get any response from it so it could be a custom interface. It doesn't say anything about supporting Skippy commands or anything like that.

so we'll have to download the program. but this is the manual here. It's good to know it has no virus. If you're any software prompts, please allow it bla bla bla.

So we'll install the software. Okay, it's just a single XE 282 kilobytes. That's what I want to see. It's be serial install Jesus Really old-school done.

that's that's the driver. Okay PC software. It was just the driver, unzipped files and double check to install the driver operate. The software is not there.

Let me go to this one. It's a different address. Okay, we've got a RAR file now. Okay, looks like that's gonna do the business.

Failed. Virus detected. Love it. More information.

Wow, this is not a good look. I got exactly the same our virus warning error under Opera here and I'm not logged in there just yet. It detected it. No.

I Am NOT going to bother I if that's like sorry I just look here it is. Here's the software. This is what it's going to look like. It's probably under work, it doesn't support, looks like it doesn't support standard Skippy commands although I Guess you can debug this and see what it's actually sending and things like that because it is a serial port should be pretty easy to decode it and stuff like that.

You can have multiple units and things like that and this is where you can do firmware update. So you've got to install this software which does not contain a virus to download your firmware. and I don't know why you might need the driver because the did install is a serial port anyway. I'm just not gonna bother.

No, sorry, someone else can do it. Now let's try out this battery charging functionality. There's nothing in the menu that you can do for this. It's like completely automatic.

So let me actually hook a battery up here and watch this symbol here. it turns red and it's detected it. There you go. One point, two seven volts.

So like I don't know where you set up the charging parameters for different types of batteries. Um I I don't get it. So I can only presume that we have to manually do it like this. So 1.5 volts for example, half an amp.

Whatever, we've got our battery connect. it's 1.27 Let's press on. Its constant current charging at half an amp where she cut off voltage. I Guess I could set my over voltage protection could you? Its rudimentary, but that's no different to a regular bench power supply.

Like you can do exactly the same thing. So I don't get it. Okay, it might give us a total lie capacity, but like geez, I'm not gonna write home to my mom about it now. There is a table of like different battery types in the manual and things like that, but it doesn't really make sense of how it works and they're linked to an operational video of the battery charging mode.

There's no video there. so I don't know. So there you go. that's the right and Rd6 w6r lab at Power Supply and 453 US bucks delivered for the module.

It is actually very impressive value for money. Sure there's a few issues with it, but geez, you know, the user interfaces is pretty good. It's performance. apart from other noise on it is pretty good and of course you can't complain about the flexibility and the specifications.

Really apart from our to be nice if it did some boost converting as well but geez you know that's a tough ask for something like this. So jewels they do have other modules if you're into combined a buck boost or Sepik converters. You have a specific need for that like you might want to run it from a single lithium ion battery lithium polymer, Polly, put the kettle on battery or whatever and you need to get like zero to thirty volts out. Then there's they have different modules for that, but the previous one we looked at grant it was only twenty bucks.

This is no 50 bucks, I'm another $23 or whatever for the case which is really quite remarkable. It's quite a nice case and how it all bills together and how it supports. You know many different times and types of both open frame, clothes frame or other types. You can even put a linear supply in there if you're really wondered into.

you know, drill a few holes and put in a big title transformer and you know, a bridge rectifier and all that. sort of, you know, old school our business and very flexible in terms of being able to power this thing from many different sources. So if you want to roll your own case and provide your own power solution then you know you really don't have to pay any more than your 53 US dollars delivered for this thing. So it's absolutely remarkable Value: Of course there's there is that issue with the noise.

We might do another video. maybe looking into ways to reduce that, perhaps. but yeah, this video is long enough already. But yeah, this is remarkable value.

But we did have issues: I couldn't get the app working I couldn't get the PC software I didn't want to get the PC software working. everything's a bit how are you doing in in that respect. but the build quality is great and the performance is there. So yeah, I'm really like this.

I said the shame about my I mean well, power supply inside this thing, the fans just constant I might have to look into that. Yeah, this is a really great banker bike. So oh, link it in down below. even though this one does have a few issues.

geez, the value for money. You've got to give this thing a thumbs up. It really is quite remarkable. If you know of any better value than this in a similar like performance spec wise, then you know, please let us know.

But and if we can improve the noise, that'd be fantastic. And and it'd be nice if they added skippy support for example, serial. you know, just a regular serial support. but I'm sure as someone out there or just a decode the serial.

protocol and Bob's your uncle. So anyway, these things, it's pretty impressive. So I'll leave a link down below to ride and Riaan text the Olly official Aliexpress our webstore I recommend you buy it directly from there, our resellers around and things like that. but I don't know what the deal is, So yeah.

Anyway, if you liked the video, please give it a big thumbs and as always you can discuss it down below. Catch you next time.