We're here with our custom, mini quad, and this thing's got a sweet, tilletson 212 on it from go power, sports with electric start and so we're thinking about the electric start, and we thought if we used a wireless momentary switch, we could have push button remote start On this thing, and so we bought one from amazon, it was 15 bucks, we're going to show you how to install it. It's pretty quick and easy, and so, if you have a electric start, predator or tillotson or whatever you can do this too. So this is our switch. We got from e-milo it's on amazon on amazon, prime, so you can get it really quick and there's a number of reasons why this switch is great.

So this is a 12 volt switch, so it will work with all predators and it can handle 10 amps of current, so it should work with nearly every starter solenoid for any small engines. It is also only 15 dollars. So it's a great cheap kind of novelty upgrade you could do to any of your builds. This switch has a couple different modes.

You can use, we have a single button remote and it can do jog or toggle. So if you hold it down, the switch will turn on and when you release it, the switch will turn off or you can do, click it and it's on and click it and then it turns off. So for us we're going to be wanting to use jog mode and right now i'll just give you all a detailed tutorial, giving you every step of how to install this. On your build first things.

First, we have our instructions which shows us everything uh in italian, so let's flip that over so i will be giving a detailed instructions on specifically the e-milo system, but this is pretty general, so you know, hopefully you can take what i do for this guy and Apply it to any other sort of transmitters you get. I do recommend this one, because i did test it out. It does work and it's only fifteen dollars, so it's pretty great but um yeah. So the first step is we have to pop off this back casing.

So it just comes out and we have our transmitter here. So you know this is pretty simple: we got antenna relay wire connections, it's pretty straightforward to see what you need to do so. The way that this is set up. The problem would be that if you wanted to have remote start, you would have to give up your thumb start.

You couldn't start it on the bike. You could only remote start, so i did a little bit of changing and now the way we're going to be setting it up, it will work. You can remote start it or start it. Normally.

Both are going to work. It's going to be great. So this far right wire is going to be positive to the battery, so i went ahead and cut some wires already, so it should be pretty quick. So, yes, we're just gon na screw this in tight, and this blue wire is gon na go the positive next.

We have the negative of the battery and it goes right next to it, so these two wires are going to supply power to the transmitter and that's really their only purpose just to supply power of the transmitter. Now our next two wires. These two are the ones that are going to be connected together. So basically, when you click the button and the transmitter switches you're, you know connecting these wires just like a switch, so we will screw these guys in all right.

So that's pretty simple. You know just four wires going into four slots: uh, nothing too fancy or anything. So now we can hook this up to power and see if it you know, clicks, so these controllers may or may not come pre-programmed from the factory. So i will just show you all how to program it we're going to be programming it for jog mode, which means when you press the button down the wires are connected, and when you release the wires are disconnected there's another mode that you can set on these, Which is called latched mode and that's you press it and it's connected and then you press it again and it disconnects.

But that's not super useful because then you press it and you're just cranking for infinity. So here we go so for the e milo there's a little button down here back in there and you can just hold that down - and this is the programming button. It'll turn red just keep holding it and it will flash green red. So here we go green red okay.

Now you can let go so. That means it's in jog mode. If you wanted to go into latched, you would just wait for it to go green red, green red, but we're just letting it blink once and now you're going to hold down again and that will set it okay, so now that it's holding red, you will hold Down the button on whichever controller you want to program and now that it flashed it's working so yeah, if y'all can hear that yeah, it's working perfectly so whenever the buttons are pressed, these two wires are connected and i will prove that to y'all with the multimeter. So we'll put this over continuity and see whenever these wires are connected.

It beeps so we'll hold this to each end and we can press the button and we should hear a beat so now that we have this all tested. We know it works and we can start trying to install it on our atv. This is pretty simple. Our atv is not charging the battery.

Currently, you would need to add a rectifier for that, so we don't have the rectifier we're actually getting one as we speak, but for now all of this wiring is going to work just as stands, but keep in mind that if you're going to want it to Really function well, you'd want to add a rectifier, so you can start charging your battery when you use it actually check out redbeard's channel here's a great tutorial on how to set up the rectifier with two coils, so you're pumping up three amps to charge your battery. Okay, so here's the main section of our wiring. Sorry, it's a little bit messy, but you know this is an old build, so we have our main power wire coming from the battery, which goes to one side of the solenoid, and then we have another one. Coming from the solenoid - and this is going to power, the starter switch, so this goes up to the starter switch and this wire comes right back to power, the starter switch, so you got one coming here: switch contacts them goes into there and then we have a Ground coming from there, your starter may or may not have a ground wire and then over here we have the ground for the kill, switch, which goes back into here to the kill, switch which comes up from the top, and then we have the negative going from The battery to the engine, so what we're going to do is very simple.

This wire right here we're going to want this wire to be powered by either the button or the remote switch. So all we're going to do is cut off this spade connector and then you know we can really quickly add in one more wire to that same connector and that'll. Be it so we got both of our wires going into here. Crimp these together and um.

Just make sure this is a good crimp, so yeah we got these crimped together. I'll heat shrink this in a bit, but both of these wires are now going to plug in to the power for the starter, solenoid. So, just a little recap: we have our positive coming from the battery right here. That goes up to your starter, switch which goes back down and will power the switch for the starter solenoid.

So what we're going to do is what we're doing is tapping in to the same plug, so you can either get power from here or from there. So you know once this is plugged in you basically have two options for power there and then, with this switch. This will connect to the positive of the battery and then that will power whenever the relay's powered. So we have everything mocked up and we're about to test it i'll just go through it one more time.

So we have positive from the battery negative from the battery and another positive from the battery, which is then connected to here which connects to our switch. So whenever we press the button it should fire boom, so yeah um. We just have to package this up. We have a nice top plate right here, so we can use these two screws and just bolt it up right.

There um for testing purposes, i'm probably just going to kind of zip tie some stuff up. It won't look super pretty, but we'll go. You know pull it up, put it 30 feet away and see how it does all right guys so now we're going to do kind of a little range test. So one thing we realized about this is that it's kind of not the most practical, because when you start an engine with the choke on which you're going to need to do with your go karts the engine kind of sputters and dies after a while so yeah.

If we're going to see if it starts from here, this is pretty far okay, it doesn't really want to stay alive, but it i mean it's still running and that would be definitely warming up for you. We're going a little bit farther now so now i'd say we're probably like 100 feet. Now. How many feet do you get? Maybe 100, maybe like 150 200 feet? Okay, i'm gon na try and not start it.

So we don't need to wait for it to die. Every time uh, let's keep going okay. I say this is a good 250 feet. This is actually pretty cool.

It's still running. Okay, let's keep going all right. So now we are, i don't even know how many feet this is. This is like really far like this is more than the range on my my start on my car.

Like you, don't even you don't need that yeah. I guess we keep going this thing yeah until like the choke flips, and it just takes off at us. Okay at this point, i think that's like a football field, it seems like zoom out the camera all the way, so they can see exactly what we're kind of seeing it's still working. Are we just gon na go, let's go as far as you can.

Okay go miles if we have to yeah we're gon na, you might be able to start this thing from the next city over yeah. It's flowing well guys um. Currently it's still running and it won't die. So i guess at this point all right guys at this point.

You know it's pretty successful. It was a lot of fun to do. You know it's definitely a little bit gimmicky, but i mean it's a proof of concept. It works, and you know if you started from this far away your go-kart will be warm by the time you get there.

No all right, probably four. I said 400 feet to limit.