Oh in the past, you've seen us build a rotary shifter go-kart, a rotary turbo mini bike, and this is the heart for our next rotary build. This is a sax winkel km24. This one came out of a arctic cat lynx from 1974. I believe, but we're texas boys we've, never even seen a snowmobile in real life, so we could be wrong there.

This is going to be pretty unique. It's pretty similar to the one that's on the shifter except no transmission, so we're going to be swapping this onto a atv frame, more specifically, a 1980s suzuki lt230 quad sport frame. So this will be one of the few rotary swapped atvs out there. Probably one of the only ones with a full youtube build series so definitely subscribe.

So you can catch those other videos when we get this thing running and putting on the frame. But that's the first order of business is to get this thing running because we bought this on ebay and we do not know who runs so fingers crossed. Okay, so here is our frame. You know this is a full-size atv.

So it's going to be pretty cool to have a rotary on it. We have our mini atv, which is a bunch of fun, so that'll be fun and here's what we got from ebay. So we have our pulleys and this shouldn't be in you know decent shape. We have an exhaust flange and the carb, which is actually really rare.

So one of the problems we came across when we were unboxing this and fitting everything up is that the starter is not for km24, it's actually for a two stroke, sax motor. So the problem is this bolt pattern. Right here is much smaller than our starter. You can't really find the pulsars on here unless you want to pay like 400, so it's not really worth it to us.

So, instead, what we did is we got in contact with gopowersports and they have laser cutters that they use for their parts. So we got in contact with them. They helped us out, and we made this starter adapter - that fits along the inside right here, we'll bolt it up and then we'll have to weld some nuts along the back and that will bolt into this starter, so fingers crossed everything will work out. That way.

We have this long shaft coming out that has a little kind of eccentric shaft, that is, for a vacuum fuel pump. The problem is that you can't really adapt a starter, because not many starters have a hole running through the mill like this one. So what we ended up having to do actually is um, we drilled a hole through the center of the starter because um, it's the the little pull start wheel, that has the cams or the teeth that come out and engage everything. This is identical to the stock starter for this engine, so they reuse that design.

So we know that these teeth will engage on the inside of this wheel and the starter will work. All we have to do is get this to bolt up to this. So, like i said, we drilled out a hole here, it's not super pretty or great, but you know it is what we have to do, and another problem is that this shaft sticks out pretty far from you know, flat with the face of the engine, and this Starter needs to be able to go flush, so another thing we're gon na have to do is end up grinding down the hex on this side, for you know, maybe about half an inch so we'll still have enough room to get a wrench on the inside of This, if we don't need to ever need to take this engine apart, but yeah we are gon na, have to grind that down: okay, cool yeah: this is kind of nice. We didn't have to try and drill these holes perfectly or make them bigger they're.

You know perfectly sized for our m6 bolts and then so that all fits perfectly there and then this we haven't ground down that um. You know output yet, but this looks like it'll be working once we get it fully down. All the bolts are going in the holes, so it's looking like we're actually going to be able to figure this out, that's pretty cool, so we have this shaft ground down. You know it kind of pained me to do it, but um.

You know if we ever in the future want this to be perfect. We can take it to machine shop or something so right now we don't really have the time. So this oh yeah, so this all fits up. We have this able to bolt up, see pull start.

So you know i'm actually really excited about that. It's pretty cool that it works, especially with this um custom. You know adapter plate and everything, so i just broke apart. Those bolts that held the um fan shroud on and then now and just unplug these wires, so we're just having problems getting the space to test this out see now you can see how this looks you know kind of cool.

I always find it weird how these rotaries have this just like square block as the balancing all right. We got these all torqued down. You know really tight um. We originally were going to weld these in, but we decided that i'm just taking this fan cover off, because it's only three bullets is actually way more convenient, and then that means we can take it apart later.

So this is all centered up. Torqued down. We use red loctite just in case, because we can't really access these easily and yeah. That is it.

This is gon na go back together and um see if she, you know, gets spark and stuff. It is fully bolted up, got everything torqued down and um. You know everything looks pretty good. This hole is actually really centered and you know the shaft looks a little weird, but it is nice having the option that if we ever want to run the pulse pump or vacuum fuel pump again we can use it so um.

There's nothing okay, it does engage, oh, that is butter that just feels like a normal pulser. This actually feels way better than our other rotary's pull start. So you know here comes the spark test: oh wow, okay, yeah! I i guess i was uh touching through this. So it went through my arms, but yes, that's a strong spark dude.

This was like almost too easy. This is kind of you know. I like build something. So if we pop the start spark plug in oh yeah, also um, the previous owner, i i was like looking in the exhaust port and everything and there's there's like grease or oil in there already and it spins really smoothly and there's no grinding noises.

So we're not damaging the engine right now. What we're gon na do is use just a little bit of starter fluid just have it fire like once or twice, and then um it's onto the carb rebuild and getting an actual uh oil fuel mixture in it. So i'll give her a little bit of the starter fluid here. Huh give it a mist yeah there we go.

It's pumping out something out. The other side looks like some sort of grease starter, flip mixture. You know i said this was you know too easy, but of course, even though we have spark we actually we check spark again. We have spark it's because you said it was too easy.

No, i changed it. Okay, we might just need to start giving us a real gas yeah, that's odd and it sounds like i mean we can't we, we didn't test compression or anything, but i mean it sounds like it's compression, but um. I think next is just we'll just rebuild the carb and get an actual air fuel mixture and it'll be safer for the engine anyway. So that's the next step.

Gon na run, you're gon na run all right. Who's going to run oh well time to rebuild the car. Positive affirmations didn't work, so here's the carb it looks to be in pretty good shape. You know the slide moves and everything.

This is a genuine mikuni um. So it's not too much different than the other go-kart carbs we have, but yeah we'll get tearing this thing apart, make sure it works. This carb is actually you know in really good shape. It looks like they drained the gas before or someone else rebuilt it but, like everything, looks great, you know.

Jets are all super clean and clear, so um we're just going to kind of spray this out a little bit, but i mean other than that. We're just going to put this back together. It looks great all right. Let's give her a couple cranks, there's fuel, there's fuel, it doesn't feel like.

It has a lot of compression, though bit of starter, fluid, now that it's got some gas ready, huh, okay! Well, it honestly has seems like it is low compression yeah. Let's get a compression check so yeah. I think we should check compression here for rotaries if you don't have the actual rotary compression tester, just kind of hold down on the uh button that records the long or the highest reading and i'll kind of give you a rough estimate. It's not the best but um okay, so one of them seems lower.

So there's going to be three pulses that will show and you're trying to look for one, how high they go and two, if they're, all kind of relatively similar. I don't know if you all. Could see that, but one of them was kind of low and then the other two are a little bit higher. Also they should be around 70, and this is around like 30..

So with our low compression there's really two main reasons. This could be um one. The worst reason would be that our seals are worn out or springs, are worn out and we're gon na have to rebuild the engine and put new springs and seals in. Hopefully, that's not the case, because that would you know take a couple weeks to get here.

We have to rebuild it and it'd be expensive. What we're hoping is that, since, when i looked in the exhaust port over here, it looked almost like greasy, like axle grease type stuff that the previous owner put in, maybe to keep it from seizing or rusting but um. It could be that the grease and any gunk inside the where the seal slide in could have just you know, have the seal stuck and we just need to clean that out and then the steels will move more freely. So yeah you can see.

This is like actual just grease. Let's see i get some yeah, that's just like, like we use that on bearings, so um they're, hopefully they're just stuck, and it's not you know, doesn't need a full rebuild all right. I'm just gently gently poking with a screwdriver and you can see that the seals do move so um. That's a good sign, we'll have to check all three and then just kind of clean it out.

So we ended up just kind of using some starter, fluid and working on the seals a bit. They do feel less kind of grimy. So um, you know the apex seals seem good um. We, you know, obviously have no idea how the side seals are but yeah that that moves pretty freely now so we'll put the spark plug back in or put the compression tester back in see.

What's up so a bit of bad news, we just tried cranking over again use some starter, fluid and just the carb, and it did not run we're still getting pretty low compression they're a little bit more uniform now, but it's still pretty low. So next order of business is to take this thing apart, so um, the apexels are probably good, but the side seals are most likely not or the corner seal. So take this thing apart, free everything up, clean it all out and hopefully fingers crossed. We don't have to buy any new seals or springs all right, yeah, there's a divot that keeps this in line this screw goes in there.

That's good! It's kind of worried, please be good, be good! Oh okay looks honestly really good yeah, there's some yeah there's some. Like build up here, so it's actually looking really good our apex or our side seals are, you know all pretty free, this one's a little bit stickier, so we'll make sure we clean this stuff out but um. You know they all move up and down really well. Um, the thing i'm saying is that the corner seals are completely flat like they don't spring at all, so um either springs are shot or they are just kind of seized in there um.

It also interesting to note that it looks like this has been taken apart and rebuilt by someone or something because there's you know fresh grease in here. Okay, keep track of all that. All right, we got ta be careful if anything's stuck. We don't want to snap anything okay.

Well, so we do have some bad news. Um, it looks like it had been sitting with some water. At some point, we have the other side of the casing over here. Um, this side is actually pretty good.

You can't really feel any there's, like maybe some mild mild, pitting right here, but our problem is that on this side there is some actually kind of deeper pitting and there's also some raised parts. So what we're going to do first is we're going to just get the do the old trick of a piece of glass and some super fine grit sandpaper glue to it and we'll try and service this down get some of this. You know darker coloring away, so we can at least see what we're dealing with, because it's kind of hard to see what's going on right now, so let's tear it apart. The rest of this casing take out the accenture shaft and then we'll start sanding this.

We we forgot that we had bought this um repair manual or parts manual actually, and it shows that this was just screwed on. I thought this was part of like the shaft or something, but now it's screwed on, so we will find out what thread this is, and we can just replace this with a nut. So we should not have uh. You know defiled this shaft in the way, but it does still work.

We're still able to you know, thread it on and off. So, technically it's fine, but we'll keep it around for if we want to run a fuel pump yeah off of it, but uh yeah. That was kind of a mistake on our part. Oh well, i turned around for like two seconds to get a different socket and it just popped off.

I heard a little pop here we are so this is off. That's great news. We don't have to wait. You know for a new puller to arrive and um.

You can see how the points look, probably uh. They did work. You know we had sparked, but it wouldn't hurt to. You know clean up the points a little bit, all right cool.

I mean they look old, but fine. I guess it did work. So so there's we're gon na leave it for tonight. We basically got the whole rotary torn apart and we have a plan of attack for how we're going to try and get it running.

What we're going to do is our sanding lapping method to get some of that pitting down and then we're going to put the seals back in make sure they're all springy, and that should give us some compression and make it fire up so make sure you stay Tuned and like this video, if you enjoyed it, and thank you guys for watching good.