Hi, it's dumpster-diving time again. and if you're subscribed to my Eevblog 2 channel, you've no doubt seen this before. It's a 50 inch LG LCD TV lessened 2 years old and I found it in the dumpster and Tada. Here's why.

Look, it's had a big impact mark there. It's damaged the panel. we get some nice funky look at that almost looks like lightning or something like that. Anyway, they're very cool.

They're artistic in their own right. Anyway, Unfortunately, that is beyond economical repair. Beer: You'd have to replace the entire panel. so I Thought we'd take it apart.

see if we can actually use the LED backlight out of this thing for I don't know something. A big LED light panel or something like that. Take the LCD glass out and maybe users is a big light panel. It's worth a shot anyway, and we might have some other usable parts in there I Don't know.

Could be interesting. Let's go say 50 lb 56:10 for those playing along at home. So let's give this a bowl, shall we? There's a few screws in here and no, I don't have my cordless screwdriver. It's at the bunker so mir, whatever.

A lot of people will complain. Yeah, should get another one. Just something therapeutic about taking our screws. These are other short ones actually.

Now of course we've seen inside many TVs This way it won't be, so be pretty unexcited. Plasmas are more exciting I'm like linking videos to my plasma teardown set. Much more exciting as high voltage high power drivers. You know, taking a 500 Watts these things take Barger or a 50 inch one like this might take a hundred maybe.

But yeah, there's no high voltage driver stuff. it's just the LCD panel with the chip on flex drivers in it and what else are we got? we got. Well there's going to be a power supply of course that'll be a typical single sided thing. There'll be a lead driver because this is a LED backlight is to see if we can vert This may be into like a let a white a white light panel you could use it for like a light box for example.

like old-school light box, good for seen through printed circuit boards and stuff like that or any arts and crafty stuff that you happen to do that needs a light table if I missed one right there we go, we're in like Flynn Beauty Vivi Oh what does BVO mean I don't know. Anyway, as you can see it's bugger all in here I'll give you a closer look Now you have to forgive the light in in this video. I don't normally shoot from this side of the bench, but yeah the other benches I don't want to have to clear her laughs. Anyway, this one was clean.

So the lights coming in from this direction here. that's why everything looks as dark and shadowy and stuff like that. Whereas usually my videos are lit from like behind like there's like above and behind like this and that's what makes them look so good. Anyway, we have our our speaker boxes here.

There are little speakers in there and they're just using those for some bass boost they were they would be sort of strategically designed is an LG so it's life's good, right? And anyway, as I said, a tiny digital board like this bugger. all and the main power supply like this. and Bob's your uncle. Here's the two main boards up close.

look at this very low profile switching transformer in here. I Like that. That's pretty funky anyway. Nice big bridge rectifier and its own little heatsink thing.

And there's our main filter cap. What's that that looks like a same young brand but look, um, surge protect. Rather interesting I Don't know. Do they have something in them? I Would like to actually rip that happen, ever tear down of that.

but look, they've got eyelets in here. Look at that. That is interesting. The fuse here and the main capacitor does I just lift out.

No, that was a bit of a red herring. I can't I can't seem to lift that out I've got a screwdriver Rhonda there tried to lift it, didn't want to break it, but it didn't seem to budge anyway. Also got it on this fuse over here. - Wow eyelets.

Anyway, apart from our main logic board, our power supply, and almost certainly a LED driver board as well, we've got our T-con board. That's where I've done a video debugging that you get I where I had an intermittent Fault in the cable that went to the T-con board on a LCD TV Anyway, common fault the T-con boards, but from this power supply are here going over to the main logic board, it doesn't split off anywhere else so that would have multiple layers 12 volts, 3.3 v, all that sort of jazz and this one going off here which must be going to the lead backlight LED backlight driver around here and on the back of the panel here we've got an info tag from New Optics Limited. They're actually a Korean company who specialize in backlight technology LCD TV So they're the ones doing this the NC 500 and those wires are the LED driver because it says let there don't as if it wasn't bleeding the obvious Anyway, together and rip out the electronics cuz we don't need that. We only need this main power flow of the LED driver.

Presumably the power supply will still work with the load disconnected for all that, but you could leave it running if you're really one to is just pissing away some more power before we taken apart. What I've got set up now is my aim: TTI I Probe over there with the wire clamp wire attachment just over one of the leads. Looks like there's two LED outputs presumably one on either side would be my guess. So there's a little doodad that comes with a very handy little device.

Ci Prober I've done some stuff on that before. let's plug it in and I just want to see if it's a constant current drive or PWM going to those LEDs just for curiosity's sake Way there we go. look at that. There we go, it is PWM and 120 Hertz or there abouts.

and if you want to know the current, what you got to do is set the probe two times. One because we're not using a time stem probe, it's a direct output. Read the datasheet for the thing and it tells you that it's at one volt per amp output. So if we have a look here, it's our Volts peak-to-peak 200 and let's call it to 30 millivolts there.

So 230 milliamps I took out the speaker and a nice touch. look little rubber rings in here which are pressed into the shezzy down here just for some vibration isolation so that's very nice. I Don't know you might salvage those speakers for something maybe and I'd say we're gonna want to keep our power button on the base of the thing down here to switch it off and on because then like standby on this thing I don't know it might be. you know, half of what if it's a good design or something like that.

And here's our T-con board, so we definitely want to get that out. In fact, you could probably maybe resell that on ebay. I Don't know, you might get 10 bucks for it. Maybe someone wants a T-con board? Don't forget the to include the ribbon cables with it as well and we can get these panels off here.

Here's the one of the driver boards for the or the well, it's not really a driver board. the the chips themselves are actually as I said chip on flex going to be further inside the panel, but that's a that's one of the connecting boards so we're just there's two of those and they don't make it like an entire meter long like that because well, it's just too hard. split them into halves like that. Much easier to manufacture on, you know, most pick-and-place machines and and PCB panels and stuff like that these little white plastic clips here I think these are going to be part of the white reflective backing surface which we need to keep and it does help if you get all the screws don't Okay so I'm gonna take the bezel off cuz that's real easy.

That's A that is a metal bezel. You can see the glass panel down in here like that I can actually lift it up and but we're going to have to get off this white tape cuz that is holding down one of our drivers. There we go. that's actually a chippy now.

it looks for all the world like our panel is just gonna lift off. Do that! What A Bobby does La and Care focus. We've got the boards attached, Tada, it's off and look what? We left with a beautiful white light panel. It's gorgeous in it.

and there's our panel. Check it out, it's still. it's got the crack in there, but it's not I mean no, no, it's still protected because this has a laminate film on the outside. But yeah, I wouldn't go trying to snap it or anything like that.

It could be in serious trouble. But yep, we can safely remove that. No workers. and one of the first problems I've noticed is that you're not gonna want to use this as like a ceiling panel because it does.

Not sure if you can see that but it is going to vote. it's just flapping around in the breeze there. It's probably just been supported on the edges and its own weight will make it come down. So really vertical panel or flat for working on big stuff.

So I didn't have to disconnect those like I thought. Anyway, I've plugged the lead back in. I'm gonna disconnect the processor board because we don't want that. That's just pissing away power.

I'm gonna plug it in and see if she works All right. Let's turn it on, see what happens? Yes I am bare feet in the lab? All right. I've got fixed exposure on the camera so let's give it a belt. Ah, let's try that again with the processor board plugged in this time and tada beautiful.

It's not very white to my I'm not sure what that's showing up like on camera, but to my mind that's not very a that dimmed a bit, didn't It was that my imagination. I'm not sure if you'll see that on camera, but yet you've got to have the processor board plugged in otherwise it doesn't. Presumably that's when the 120 Hertz is generated from and or you know, something that enables it. So yeah, you gotta have the processor on.

But there you go. I've got a sauce OLED panel beauty and that's a nice even light on that - I mean you I've had I can't tell you where the LEDs are on that thing. the sides, the top, all around. what's it like? There's no real hot spots on that at all.

Amazing. and trigger warning if you don't like fast flick I turned off now I'm gonna change the frame rate of the camera and that's one two thousandth of a second. Oops. And of course, if I set it to 120 Hertz it synchronizes precisely with the LED backlight.

Zero flicker whatsoever, but above and below that. Yep, we can get the flicker. and if you're wondering what kind of light output we're getting at, well at one meter away, that's about a meter center axes. we're getting a bit.

Let's call it 550 550 lux or there abouts and we'll just compare the light output to the panel's you've seen in my videos before. I've got these up as my our studio lights on the ceiling. This is a high efficiency 60 watt 600 6000 Kelvin our panel so we'll get the difference and Anumita this one's rockin' about 1200 so let's let's call it double. and sure enough, my 60 watt nominal panel draws just over 60 watts 63 watts and if you want to see the VA there we go Sixty Five Point Three Power Factor Point Nine Six Nine very good These panels or will the power supply that comes with it which for those playing along at home is a Lifford and our dodgy brothers hacked TV LED Panel 40 watts almost bang on the a 50 point 9 2 So they gives us a power factor of 0.8 for this particular LG 50 inch LCD TV that we've got here.

so that includes the electronics of course. so who knows Emma's power. they're still chewing and stuff like that. but yeah, that's not too shabby at all.

Half the light output it a meter for ya, it's not half the power, but still it's it's It's better than I thought it would be I think and if you do want to use this as a light panel, then you want to get the weight down out of the thing, but unfortunately most of the weight is in the steel chassis. I Have weighed the LCD panel itself and it's only about 2 kilos so that's all you're saving by taking out that you still need all the diffusion plate in the middle back in panel and the electronics and yeah, the plastics and everything else so you're not saving a huge amount of weight there. And of course, one of the good things you can use a light box for is for seeing through boards to see the different layers. In this case, you can see the ground planes in there really very nicely on that board.

Look at that. Anyway, million and one uses for a light box. I mean I Don't know why he'd want a 50 inch diagonal light box, but anyway, you might. And because we can, let's have some fun with my Spectra One spectrometer.

You haven't seen this before I've had it for a little bit and I want to do some cool videos with it and it's basically one of one of the cheapest spectrometers on the market. It's not particularly cheap, it's like 800 euros or something, but it's basically a fiber optic guy interface and there we there we go. There's our fiber optic interface but they give you like a little nice little lens with it as well that we can put this directly on our panel and have a look at the light spectrum from it. Awesome! This is the software that comes with it and it shows the suspect if I pointed up towards one of the lights.

I've got here in the lab, we can see the color spectrum. It'll show the peak response and we can actually have a look at the monitor here and watch this I show you something cool. Okay, so if we point it to the white, we get green and some blue and some yellow down in there. If we just look at the blue, bingo, the others vanish and if we just look at the green, the others vanish as well.

Neat. All right Now let's take a look at our commercial panel just as a reference now. I'm not kidding when I have to put this all the way across the room and it's still peeking. Unfortunately, haven't totally figured out this software yet, but I believe that this is as high as it goes.

So yeah, we are saturating it. But anyway, you can see the spectrum with the blue, the green and the yellow peaks there. That's very typical of a white. LED I Want to actually do a separate video on this so we can actually get a CAPTCHA like we'll just get a single-shot sequence of that There we go.

That one's not bad, actually spot-on. So that's our reference and this is a nominal 6000 Kelvin pan or CRI greater than 80. You can see our our blue peak there at our 450 nanometers, another one at 532 in the green and peaking around 600 in the yellow there. And if we have a look at our Doji Brothers panel here, I'll capture that.

Here we go: stop, take, single shot capture and wham-o. The color rendering index isn't nearly as good on this thing as our other commercial panel and I guess you wouldn't really expect it to and it's It does have kind of the bluey tin, so anyway, let's try and get the two side-by-side and compare them. Okay, I'll have a play around with our Doji Brothers panel and I'll see if I can spare the details, but I'll see if I can capture the same amplitude. You can see similar response, but near the peaks and troughs are different and here we go.

After a bit of fiddling, I was able to capture almost the same intensity. the other one was about 135 are peaking the blue. this one's let's call it very similar now. I Don't want to get into a tutorial on CRI or color rendering index here, but have a look on the left hand side here.

we've got our TV, our hacked TV LED backlight and on the right we've got our commercial panel. not that really top quality one. As far as that CRI goes, just a greater than 80 as a reference 100 is like our like proper daylight the Sun but you can see that even with the same intensity virtually the same intensity scale here, you can see that the blue of the Hector TV is very prominent and it dips all the way practically down to zero between the blue and the green. Whereas our commercial our lead panel at a nominal 6000 Kelvin has a lot more energy content there between the blue and the green.

That's why our hacked TV looks very bluish because it the blue, the energy in the blue there dominates. It's not spread out, it's not more of a full spectrum. And here's a spectrum comparison of daylight, for example. and see, it's got a broad energy content right over the whole thing, and that's why.

Yeah, it doesn't look like it's a nice white, looks very bluish, and you can get regular compact fluorescents and things like that that do a similar thing. Now, if you haven't seen these films before, there's actually a lot of technology which goes into these. You can see there's four separate layers here. On the bottom, we have a diffuser sheet.

It's like really thick. But then we get onto these films and these are absolutely fascinating and check it out. Even at 1 million, these things light up ok. and if I change it, I can change that to naught point.

1 million micro amps and even 10.