Hi Just a quick follow-up video to this Samsung Lcd dumpster-dive repair and if you haven't seen the previous videos are just linking this board that went horribly horribly wrong in the thermal oven when I tried to reflow it one boy was a complete success and this one with they're obviously the connectors not designed for the specific reflow temperature and/or time completely failed. So here's some photos if you haven't done scene of the previous connectors and they were just melted. Almost beyond usability. but I say almost because managed to shave off just a bit from the top here.

they're very brittle. I Don't know if the plastic was originally extremely riddled like that, but yeah, we're able to. uh, but certainly after it melted. incredibly brittle so we just cut off managed to cut off some of the top there.

saved these two connectors. Um, haven't tried to actually plug them back in, but we should be how to get the mating connector back in there I'm sure, but this Joule rope one here was yeah, beyond salvaging with the dual rows. all the pins were at the wrong angle and everything. So David Two chipped away at all of the all the plastic on there basically extracted all the individual pins and then we re soldered like actually manually play.

I'm not going to take this off because they could. Well, it's probably not bad, but I don't want to do it and we just manually. So we cut away all of the plastic on there and then manually inserted each pin back into the connector and then put it back into the board on here and resold it. it back in and each individual pin, of course, had to be individually pushed back in there.

So that was a bit tricky and it doesn't push it right in until you got them all lined up And with the dual row nature and the one millimeter pin pitch err, that was all very tricky business. And so we've already sorted that one in so that one should still work. That's the main power connector and we've got this one here, which is like the audio or something like that, not hugely important. Once again, we've just got the pins in there.

We couldn't salvage the outside plastic. so we're just using this female header as just a temporary thing to solder that in. Okay, just one trick with solder in these connectors. Back in, make sure you check the height of the mating connector I Don't actually have it here.

it's attached to the TV over there. but if we put that down flush, sold it flush like that, we wouldn't be able to plug in the plug in the header connector on the top of it. It's quite thick, so you've got to put a spacer in there. We've already measured it this little.

There we go. It's a little tape there. If we push that down, that should be just about the right thickness of the connector that's going to mate on there. So there we go.

We'll just hold that down. and flip it over and solder it. So there you go. It was soldered that one on and bingo We can pull that off and now we've got the correct height pin header again.

you know we don't need the surrounding plastic. That's alright. You can, you know, and often you need these retention clips on the stop, vibration and things like that, but you know it's not really an issue. You could tape it on if you want.

You can glue it down or whatever once you know it's working. No problems at all. All right here we go. We're gonna switch it on.

Turn on the power. Dave There's no noise. No noise. Oh yes, yes, there was yes.

I I Heard the noise. That means the process is working. Hang on. We can see some backlight, hang on, wait for it.

Where's the stripy bits? I Can't believe it still works after reflow and they're coming back. They come back. Ah right, yeah, here they are. Yeah, yeah, no, sorry folks, didn't fix it.

There you go, we refloat both the T-con board and the processor board and they survived by the way with you know, melting those connectors, everything not a problem, it was just really wasn't over temperature in the oven as such for the for all the chips and everything else and they survived just fine. But those physical unit connectors weren't designed for that reflow temperature that we use there. but the board survived just fine and dandy. There you go.

So sorry. Nah, that's it. It must be the panel or something else with refloat bow. It could still be like a T-con board at fault or something like that.

I Think that's still the most likely scenario, but whether or not I'd buy another T-con board there like eighty hundred bucks or something like that. but by the time you land him here in Australia it's not. It's not really worth the gamble because we're not a hundred percent sure. So there you go.

Thumbs down for that dumpster dive. Oh well. hope you found the videos interesting. Catch you next time you.