Hi in a video some time back you saw me do a teardown of this flirty G 165 thermal-imaging camera one of these cheaper gun type cameras and I kinda sort of destroyed it getting it apart because well I didn't know how to take it apart properly and it was destroyed in the process. but all of the guts still worked out of it. like the you know, the Lepton sensor and the LCD and the board and everything else in it. it was pretty much gone.

So I thought well what can I do with the guts out if I'm gonna do something cool I know? How about the world's first thermal camera watch? Yeah, let's check it out Beauty And here it is. Check it out and that's Dave - there sure she moves Dave Yeah Awesome! John Travolta said they Night Fever Come on nah no. I think he's too young for that? He's got no idea. But there you go.

That's the world's first thermal imaging watch. Awesome! So here it is: Uses all the guts out of the flirty G 165 and including the lepton sensor there in the front. Please excuse the crudity of this 3d printed model here. It's not actually us stuck together because I'm going to show you the insides in a minute so it would look better.

This is our first shot at printing a 3d case for it. We got it first go and we'll show you some of that in a minute. But yeah, it uses the existing board. There's our art charging the thing esta micro SD card there for us.

story and photos on. Uses the original work keypad here to turn off and on. we don't have any silkscreen on there yet and the Lepton sensor in the front and there you go in a 3d printed case And the world's first thermal imaging camera watch. Awesome! So as you can see, we've got the Lepton sensor sitting in there.

Doesn't have the original Germanium lens from the thing, but it seems to work reasonably well with out. It's got the UH shutter on top. this slept on sensories. It comes with an optional white shutter and you might see that click there.

Maybe it might try and compensate itself. Every now and then little micro shutter comes across in there. it might have fallen off. Actually, it's a bit how you do it at the moment, this whole thing.

but it. it's definitely a proof-of-concept Let's take a squiz inside this thing and I'll show you what we've done here. There you go. We budged in a little flat Lithium battery there.

It's going to get decent life, but we haven't measured the power consumption. The original one, of course, used an 18 650 battery. This one isn't the same capacity as an 18 650, but you know it's going to get like half an hour of use. or maybe and maybe even an hour or something like that.

I Don't know. We've got our Lepton sensor down the bottom in there, which fits on that part of the case. The watch our strap is just a here you can see at the moment we just budged in a earbud thing. What are they called a q-tip or something right? whatever you call them in your country so you just put those in there, stuck it in.

you know, because we need to 3d print a separate thing to hold that watchband in. So there's our six hundred milli amp hour battery. It's like 20 C It's a real high discharge one you know, designed for little model aircraft and things like that. but we're only using it at a much lower discharge level than that.

and if we whip that off there, you can see that we've actually removed the original original board connector here which went off to the 18 650 battery that just used a 2 pin header but that was like too high so we just decided to get extra low profile disconnect that solder wires directly in. Now this original button here for the photo button. It was a straight on the board like that so you pressed from the top but of course we couldn't press from the top. We didn't want that so we just budged in a new one in here and made it right angle like that so we can and just have it sticking out side the case so that we can just press that and save images to our micro SD card over here.

But apart from that it's basically exactly the same board. We didn't really have to cut anything off here. we designed the case to like fit and then hold it in here like this. you'll see the 3d model shortly but that was designed to just hold that existing board in place like that and then if we lift the whole board out here it was designed to be press fit and we go can see that the LCD is still attached to the base of it as it originally was that's actually taped down to the board like that.

We've got our original tactile dome. it switches on here and this originally had this rubber membrane a keypad on top to actually press those buttons but that was too thick and it had protrude from the case and it would look ugly. So what we did is just 3d print some buttons that just went look it just went straight through the case like that. We've got four little buttons in there so that's really quite neat.

They do work. It's not the best solution. maybe the little plungers could have been longer on them, but yeah yeah they do work and we got all this on the first. Go on the first print.

So there you go. This piece on top here as you'll see in the 3d model in a minute is a separate one and that's just that taped down. At the moment we didn't want to glue that so it's just a separate piece that was printed and then taped down to the top. And of course we could have printed this all as like one big part.

but then we wanted like a nice you know shiny surface on here. There's there's multiple ways to do this. No, we have an acetone finish this or anything it is printed with ABS plastic. This particular one, we didn't use the PLA material printed on the MakerBot Replicator, which you'll see in a minute.

I've got some footage of making that, but yeah, so we just printed that as a second part and then just stuck that on. But yeah, otherwise if you can see that this flat surface we actually printed that facedown like that. So I got a nice surface and the buttons and everything were, you know it was just made more sense to actually design it and print it that way than just a one part with this big protruding thing and all that. that would have been a little bit messy to print.

Now as far as the Lepton sensor board goes, this one's actually taped in there. so I have to be very careful taking that out. In fact, I might not be able to get that out, but you'll notice that this board has been chopped right along here. It originally was, you know, a fair bit longer than this and it would have been like too high.

But thankfully the layout person who designed this board sort of just kept all the traces as you would captain kept the traces short. He didn't like extend them right out here like this so he could actually just share that off. We just missed a via or a trace down in there. just share it off and then not have to repair any of the traces.

although if traced ego out there we could have. We could have repaired it, put in a little mud wire to do that but we didn't have to. So the board was physically longer in the other one just because of you know how it like mounting purposes and things like that in the Tg165. Okay so we just chopped that off and got a minimum hide in there.

Of course it has to be in the correct orientation as well to use the thing on the wrists and then you know show up so there's only one orientation it can go in. Now this nice case that you see here: I'm I lack of the 3d CAD skills to do this so this was done by Dave - he's quite good at 3d modeling in SolidWorks This was like I originally just did a prototype to try and fit this so this is one that I designed and printed out before Dave come along and that's why this videos taken too long and I was originally going to have like the buttons in there and things like that and yeah, anyway, that was just a first shot at it to fit things in. Not nearly as nice as this nicely moulded and 3d modelled package. and yes, it was all done in scale and modelled in SolidWorks and he Dave even modelled the PCBs and the screens and the buttons and where they were going to go and everything.

So I knew it was gonna fit in here before we actually printed it. and sure enough, it fitted like a glove. Oh well, kind of like an oh Jay Simpson glove. but yeah, it worked first go.

So yeah, that was just one of my first quick and dirty 3d drafts for this thing. but well, you know an original concept just to get stuff and size things up. and I did this in a machine shop software. but the reason I didn't finish it off properly is because I found a bug when I tried to eat export from a machine shop into the 3d MakerBot software and like things were vanishing.

you know like extrusions were just vanishing and all over the place. and it was really it was just a pain in the ass anyway. so Dave did it all in SolidWorks but during the assembly of this thing while we had no real issues with the 3d case, we did have with his pain in the ass flat flex cable which connects over to the Lepton sensor. Now yeah, I can barely see it on the screen here.

If you're gonna sharp eye, you can see in fact I'll get something a bit sharper. you can see in there. there's little tiny breaks in that trace there and this is a quite a common fault with these flat flexors. Yeah, this is obviously the pinch line where it exited from the board mount connector and then you know if you flex it too many times then you can get little micro breaks in your traces like that.

We had that and we had all sorts of intermittent operation wondering what the problem was. and you look at it under reasonable magnification? You know, just ordinary magnification. Like one of those you know, head-mounted ones or something like that low-power ones. We can't really see the break, but you know you put it under decent magnification and you can see these tiny little breaks in there when you get the Flex and you know and if you straighten it out like that, it might make contact anyway and there.

If you're very careful, use a very low temperature. you can actually put solder and back on there and join any breaks if you're really desperate. and but as you can see, I almost did that. Almost success, but I had one last little dab at it and warm it burnt straight through.

What a pain in the ass. But just a little tip with these flat flex cables. If you do get one that breaks, you can just cut it with a pair of scissors like that assuming you got the length left. We just had enough length left to cut it across.

With a pair of scissors and all this white stuff you can actually get in there If you're very careful, apply the right amount of pressure and just scrape that off and get in there and actually get yourself a new flat flex n which can put into the connector. and this is the actual end of the one that we're actually using on the Lepton sensor there and it works just fine. We didn't have to buy a new cable because we couldn't actually get one in stock of the right type that we wanted. so we just yeah, just scrape away.

And yep, Bob's your uncle. You can fix these no problem at all. and there's a close-up of that Lepton PCB which we just cut off there and that worked. a treat.

So here's an animated 3d rendered AV exported directly from SolidWorks You can do this kind of thing and you'll see how he actually modeled all of the PCB These are exact dimensions too. He got the calipers, measured it all up, and everything, the battery and the buttons and everything else. and the Lepton sensor. He's got all models for these and put that in and you see all the buttons and the explode of view and all the separate parts that we printed there.

There's not that many of them but as you can see it, this is how in sure that it would all fit together when we actually 3d print it and sure enough it did. No hurries at all and here's a short time lapse. We can show the whole thing of the build. It took like three and a half hours or four hours or something, but we certainly print Adhan You can see all the different sections plus the buttons in the back corner there as well and you can see it had built up some of the support material there.

We did have a bit of an issue down in the bottom right corner there with one of the holders, but generally it worked pretty well. And here is our final print. Check it out! We've got the the main base of the unit it's some upside down by the way and we've got our top cover and our little buttons here. Decided to print them all out.

Had a little issue down here with one of the the hold it holder for the Lepton sensor there. but anyway that was really impressive. I was him very impressed how it built the bridge right across there. That was just fantastic.

So now we'll peel these suckers off. That was a heated bed by the way. We're using a 110 degree bed with two 30-degree head on that and it's all done with ABS plastic. So there we go.

Tada, look at that. And of course we printed it with the raft on the bottom so it's not that great so we'll probably have to. Well, we definitely have to reprint this, but because this is going to be the top surface under here, it would be better to try and either print that directly on there or print it up the other way. so that yeah, we had a nice smooth finish on the outside.

But anyway, that's our front cover plate and there it is. So it yeah, it bridged all the way across there. I Decided only to build those two supports in there. That's very impressive.

And oh, by the way, if you're wondering, yes, I have had countless problems with my MakerBot but I've got these new art red aftermarket metal our support things in here and they have made it like really ultra stable and I've got a new spring-loaded thing that's made all the difference is a new spring-loaded extruder, plunger hold or anything that goes against the film and instead of the stupid plastic thing that went across there and that stopped all blockages and things from happening in there. so that was a really. There are two really good upgrades that actually make this MakerBot quite usable these days. and that's that.

These rafts actually peel off quite nicely. Look at that, so that's our support material under there and you can still see the the pattern of the first layer that went down to bridge this huge gap in there. But look at that. There's the slot for the SD card and the USB connector.

that turned out really really nice. As I said, the ruffs do separate quite nicely. oh I'd Print it directly on the surface and then we had a nice smooth surface finish on the front and there we go is the first shot at that. It is a custom design for my wrist, could have done with a bit more angling on the side there, but hey, that's that's.

pretty groovy. And the reason why this board didn't fix us because we accidentally printed out version one. So oh yeah, Version two. Actually yeah, there wasn't didn't cater for the roundness, the rounding on the inside there for the board.

but yeah, we just printed the wrong file. don't So there you have it. There's the world's first thermal camera watch. We just did this for a bit of fun.

Hope you liked it and if you did, please give it a big thumbs up on YouTube because that helps a lot of big thermal thumbs up. And if you wanna discuss it, jump on over to the Eevblog forum, catch the next time and know I didn't end up putting the laser the triple laser on here for the Predator thing. That would have been cool, but you know go in a bit far. You.