Hi just a quick little uh repair video on this TV it's my mom's TV actually it's a really crap brand uh Sonic thing you know, uh, just a one hung low brand and uh, she said that it's been going on the blink uh the last couple of days and uh, she said there was a picture down the bottom or something and the audio was breaking up and doing all sorts of jazz like that. and uh, the picture's finally gone now. but it does show a boot up picture anyway way I thought I'd uh take a squee at it I Bought it back to the lab and uh, let's turn it on and have a look. Here we go now.

Oh yeah, see now we're getting the boot image which is interesting in its own right because of course if the uh, if something wrong with the like the power supply like seriously roll with the power supply, you wouldn't get that. So all of the display panel circuitry is working and and all that sort of stuff, the onscreen menu, but the build-in digital tuner is not working at all. um so well it's not displaying image, but audio was coming out of the thing so that's you know it's curious. it could be a power supply issue that is affecting the digital tuner or something like that perhaps.

but uh anyway. I don't know. like I can't get it to come up with the menu or anything like that. Um, even with the remote and my M's been having trouble turning it off so uh yeah, it's interesting, um fault.

so it's not a complete fire and that display, that boot image comes up every time. So I don't know? Um, the most likely uh, fault with these sort of things is always going to be the uh, you know, the the capacitors in the power supply is going to be a major thing, but uh. anyway, that could still be the case, but it's got a HDMI input. So what I thought I'd do is hook up my Tagano microscope to the HDMI input and see if that actually comes up or not wo well I've plugged in the external HDMI and I did manage to get a menu there for a second.

So um, let's see if I can call up the menu again. Here we go. We got it. So that's rather interesting why it's coming up now and the menu wasn't coming up before, so that could indicate yeah, marginal power supply? something like that.

But look, I mean there's nothing wrong with that image at all. It is absolutely bang on. Ah, here we go: Input Source: Okay, HDMI one that's the Tagano microscope. I'm not sure if it supports the 6 phases per second input.

No. I mean we're getting nothing out of that at all. No signal? No, that's a loser. Aha, it was the Tano microscope.

I got myself a Raspberry Pi here and uh, it loads it. Views that just fine, so it certainly couldn't handle the 60 frames per second. So anyway, this sucker is working. Um, jeez, it's making an idiot out of me now.

Um, well. I Couldn't get the menu up before, but the menu didn't come up immediately and when I powered it on. So I don't know. Maybe some sort of uh, you know o hello, hello, we're gone.

We're gone. Yep, hello, Yeah, you can see the backlight is still on, but uh no, it's yeah, it's flaky. It's flaky. I reckon it's got to be got to be a power supply issue.

look I can't even turn that off now. Oh, it's dodgy as this thing. see one? Well where's the boot message? Tada Oh look, there's no boot. There's no boot message I heard the boot on sound but the boot message.

no zip. So there you go if I try menu now. no look at this. nothing.

So yeah, it's dodgy. All right. I'm not going to muck around with this anymore I Reckon most likely odds on power supply issue. Let's take it apart.

And for those playing along at home, there's your model number and there's few screws around the outside. yeah, self tappers into plastic. As you'd expect, there's a little arrow markers on there, so presumably I own. Take those out and uh, there's other ones on the back here which don't Oh, here we go some bigger ones so that's in the side.

These two are at the bottom. Yeah, you got to keep track of the different size screws. Okay, there's a bit of fail on the eror on the arrows there. They didn't say these four had to come off and it doesn't say if the stand has to come off or not.

But uh yeah, yeah, stand has to come out too. Ah, all right, one more time for the dummies. Yeah, Bloody power cord is like fixed there. Ah oops.

Warranty Void Warranty void if removed? Yes. Gonsky. You bet your ass were going to avoid the warranty cuz this thing's out of warranty. So uh, even if it was in warranty, who gives a toss? All right.

hey, we're in like Flyn Check it out. I Expected there to be another metal shield on top of there, but there's not. It's just a bloody angle bracket. Look at that.

Unbelievable man. that is just that's that's pretty cut price. Oh, this is a pretty lightweight cut price. uh, sort of thing.

Anyway, Processor board, power Supply board. Let's take a look. Look, it's a Meg Meat brand power supply. go figure.

Um, single-sided board. Common as you'll finding these things, but uh, at first glance, where's my little poker? uh Main: DC Filter cap on the input there. uh, basically nothing. There's no, um, you know there's no bursting on the uh uh, rupture seam there.

There's no uh. expansions, not bulging. These other caps aren't bulging at all. There's nothing oozing out of them.

They're just cheap one hung low brand caps. I don't know they're are yeah. Samsung with Samson with an X Um, yeah, not that great. Uh, same with the digital down here.

Nothing much happening on the Caps down here, so that's fine. I Mean any issues are more likely to be up in the main Main's power supply up here, but on first glance. yeah, nothing obvious with the Caps might have to get the ESR meter out. One thing that was interesting is that the main ribbon cable going off to the LCD coming out of the main processor board here goes up under the power supply.

But look, they've got like another buffer board up there sitting between there and then this goes off to the LCD panel. So yeah, it's like some sort of rebuffering chip for for the long run or something like that. Me all right. The first thing I'm going to do is use my Bob Parker ESR meter here.

I short the leads, zero that out, and let's measure the main Uh DC filter cap here. so let's plug it on. It's an 82 microfarad uh, 450 volt and we're getting about 0.63 Ohms A rough chart on here I Mean you know that that looks like a good enough value to me? I mean talking. Uh, you know, 450 volts at Um around about 82? That's pretty much what I'd expect, so nothing gross, ly wrong there.

And as I said, no physical deformity in the Uh vent on the end of it, so you know, no swelling, no, uh, rupture or anything like that. So that's you know you'd have to say that's good. Next thing you do is H take that board out cuz to access the other capacitors, we have to access the bottom side of the board. Of course, nothing visually wrong on here.

I Mean you know I'm not like I'm looking for any blowouts in any of the Ic's or something like that. but really, if there was something like that wrong, then, well, this thing likely wouldn't work at all. But we've seen symptoms of like, you know, intermittent type symptoms that are indicative of a classic capacitor failure. So you know, eh, nothing.

uh, visually, uh, interesting on the bottom of that main power supply board. So I'll access a few of the Uh secondary side filter caps over here and uh, measure th measure the ESR of those and there you go. That's a th000 mik at 10vt capacitor. it's basically a dead short at the 100 khz that this thing, uh, measures that so you know 1,000 mik? uh it's you know it's bang on.

really nothing wrong there at all. We this chart saying it should be 0.1 we're getting 0.01 Not a problem and there's another, mik uh 10v and that's fine. everything's oh that one. That one's a bit High though I mean you know we're almost talking order magnitude higher than the F ones.

Now that was that capacitor there. Now curiously, that's a Chong brand, not the Uh Sam zong with a um Samson or however, you pronounce it with an X which these two are which I just measured. and although that's not the same value cap, that's a 470 M 35 Vol. But H According to the chart on here, we expect a same value of around about 0.1 Ohm, but hey, you know there could be nothing I that could be a red hering.

I'm not going to chase that now. All right. I'm fairly happy with the Caps I've measured on that board. There's nothing grossly wrong.

So um, next thing, rather than jump straight into the digital uh board, I'm just going to power up this uh, power supply, measure it on the scope. So I'm going to, uh, use my Lroy A31 differential uh probe here, set to uh 100 to1 um attenuation, uh, ratio. So if there's 450 volts on that Uh cap for example, then I'll only get Uh 400 4.5 volts out of this thing. and I can measure that on the scope.

Let's see if there's any Ripple So let's power it on and see what we get. And there we go. We're at 1 Vol per division there don't Oh, there we. Oh, that was interesting.

It just uh, it was mucking around there for a minute. There was a bit of uh, bit of Ripple on that and let me, uh, disconnect the power and do that again. I haven't actually switched the power on. So we're basically just in standby power mode at the moment because uh, be careful, this is out live.

Um, always keep one hand in your pocket. Uh, this, um, power supply is going to stay on all the time. CU this is just a soft standby function so you're always going to have that. So what have we got there? We got 100, 200, 300 H something on there.

There we go. We're getting a little bit of uh, bit of Ripple on that. but yeah, nothing serious. So uh, we'll have to power the thing up of course.

and uh, well. I'll do that now. I'll press the standby button here we go. Boom We jumped up.

we're getting some Ripple there. it doesn't look, uh, doesn't look that bad I can't see the screen at the moment cuz the damn thing's lying down there. we go. We got some higher frequency Ripple stuff.

So I presume. Yeah, there we go. I heard, heard it boot up so it's all booted up now and we're getting some. You probably can't see that, but some high frequency Ripple on that thing.

There you go and uh, that's pretty much what you'd expect, so that's fine. There's nothing wrong with that main Fielder cap at all. And if you're curious to see how quickly this this discharge as well, let me unplug it. and um, it's still holding a decent charge.

Look at that. This is why you don't want to touch these things unless you've left them off for quite some time. And it's also recommended. You know you put a dummy load across them or something like that.

a big ass resistor. um, you know, calculated that you can put it across there and just drain that main filter cap. Look at that, that main filter cap that has still got 200, you know, 70, 2, 260, 270 Vols DC on there. that'll give you a hell of a belt.

and of course, something like this. Uh, proper high voltage differential. Pro is what you need to be safe measuring the primary side of a switching. Uh, Mains uh, you know, power supply like this.

the secondary side. That's okay, it's a it's lower voltage and B it's isolated so you can actually use your regular scope on uh, the secondary side of it. But that primary side. you don't want to go around unless you got one of these high voltage differential probes.

Worth every cent. And I'm just measuring another cap on the secondary. uh side here. Yes, I'm still using my differential probe just because I can and it's still hooked up.

Um, yeah, 12v rail. No problems, No Ripple whatsoever. So I'll probe a few ones that I can actually probe around here. but I don't really, um, expect to find anything on this primary.

Uh, um, you know power supply here so it's more pointing towards the secondary. uh, the processor board at the moment which I I was hoping. I'm rather surprised at that. The odds weren't the odds were, uh, much more that it was going to be the main power supply in this thing.

but possibly not. Okay. I've measured another rail here which is around about 25. Vols this is 5 Vols per division.

5 10, 15, 20, 25 volts. There's a 35 volt cap in there and uh I Well yeah, you can see the rail there we go. it dropped a bit. I've now switched it off that was on before so now I'll switch it on and uh, see, whoa there we go.

Can see it jump down a bit, but you know, look there's no Ripple on there. There's nothing wrong with that cap. I Don't know to measure all the other rails? Uh yeah, it's a bit tricky, but jeez, there's nothing obvious. Um I might have to start going down to the processor board down here and checking out the uh, digital rails on that sucker.

Now they have actually been relatively kind and labeled the power rails uh, down on here on the silk screen. So there's as we looked at before. I'm just going to measure this is the 24v rail TW it's Nally 24, but there's 25. There's nothing wrong there.

Uh, this should be + 12. I assume it's the same rail. uh, same ground. Yep, it is + 12.

Uh, + 5 happening over here. 5 Yeah, 5.25 They' T trimmed it to be on the high side as you'd expect and plus 5 Vol standby. Um, so yeah. rails are good.

I'm not going to go through and measure the Uh Ripple on all of those, but jeez, you know, not much wrong there at all. and this is, uh, switched on. By the way, the thing is actually powered on and uh, displaying something. So yeah.

underload me. Those power rails are just fine, so can pretty much rule out this board. Okay, next thing we're going to want to do is just have a poke around at some of the internal rails on here. the um, uh, so 223 packages there.

They're dead giveaways that their local voltage regulators and yes, I've checked. uh, like the can of here is ground. um is connected through the common ground so you can just put one Probe on there and just uh, probe around to your heart's uh, content. All right there we go.

3.3 Vols on the uh output of that regulator. Don't even need to measure the Um input because, well, you know, 3.3 Vols it's obviously 3.3 Vol regulator even though it's not marked exactly what you'd expect. So you just go around a pro 1.89 that's obviously a Uh processor core voltage. another 3.3 Vol local regulator there.

what's this one? 3.3 so they're all fine I've got no problems with that at all. Be handy if they actually had proper voltage test points on this um, uh, silk screen overlay and uh, you know, allowed you to, uh, play around with these things but uh, and measure them but they don't. There's a 12 vs. there's five there.

a couple of points marked there. it's actually a few U just a little strap on there. So jeez, the power supply is fine on this thing. So what's the problem? I've got no idea.

Now this is interesting. Sorry. I'm looking up under the bench here and look. there's a line on that display and it's flickering in and out.

We've got no input signal I don't know what source is selected there, but yeah, that that's it's. not a well puppy that's for sure. There's something going on here, don't know what? Whoa, you see that red? What the hell was that? and Just for kicks I'll get on my flu thermal imaging camera more just to have a play around with. And pretty much the things that are getting hot are the things I expect to get hot.

A couple of freestanding to220 packages over there. they're mounted on the heat sink. These ones over here are power power resistors, presumably on the Uh main rails. They get pretty hot, Actually, it's not good from this distance.

I was measuring like up to 70 on those and the digital uh part of it was uh, you know the reg. You'd expect the individual Regulators to be hot and stuff like that, so nothing out of the ordinary at all. And the great thing is, you can generate an external signal Source cuz it's got a 5V USB on here and a HDMI input. so you're just Loop your uh Raspberry Pi through that and bingo, look at this.

See there it is. You can see the menu for a minute and then it. It's flickery, it's flickering, and then oh, it really doesn't like that. Now interestingly, you can actually buy uh, this complete replacement board, the MIP uh 329 or the MIP uh, 320 fl1 board.

um on eBay You get it for about 35 bucks shipped or something like that. So there's actually quite a few people selling those, so they're obviously used in a few Uh sets. But anyway, I can't find a schematic for it or a schematic for this uh, particular. um TV either.

So you know we, we're pretty much going to have to do with Oh, by the way, a handy tip: if you want to discharge. uh, these caps. you can actually use one of these meters if you got one that has uh, this, uh, low input impedance voltage mode so you can actually just use that and then oh, can we see that there we go and then whack that across the main Fielder cap and bang 4.6 That was up to like still up to like 50 volts or something like that, but now we've actually discharged it using the internal low impedance of the meter, so that can actually be really quite handy not only for eliminating ghost voltages, but in this case, uh, bleeding out voltages. Before you work on gear, check this out.

Taking out the main processor board measuring the main filter cap here, it's a 470 mik 35 Vol and I'm getting .15 Ohms, which sounds okay, but according to the Chart which is still like a very rough guideline, it should be about 0.1 so that kind of is reading a bit high. I'll just swap the probe shouldn't make a a rat's difference, but just verifying. yeah, not .15 there. So I don't know considering that I don't have any other leads on this thing.

um I don't know. Might just be worth quickly swapping that one out and check this out. There's another couple of 470 mics on there now. Nei uh.

neither of these appear to be uh low, ESR uh types. they just, you know, ordinary crap electrolytic caps of whatever uh, brand and uh model and basically only one voltage. uh, rail, uh, difference there and you know we're looking at 22 ohms there, so you know that's under the chart figer of Uh 25 but still, you know I I Don't know. red hering I Mean you're really looking for these things to stand out? They should be.

You know, grossly different. But when you're talking about an intermittent problem like this, it could mean that, um, often means that the capacitors could be on their way out. For example, some components on it, way out. some components marginal usually caps because they got an electrolyte in them that, uh, dry up and increase the ESR on the things, especially when they heat up during operation and things like that.

So you could be looking at a marginal value there. But uh, once again, when you've got two side by side and they measure exactly, uh, the same and they're not in parallel, then, well, you know you can be pretty sure that those two at are are okay. Now the problem here is that the symptoms aren't really consistent. I've had uh, anything from, you know, not switching on at all, to not switching off at all, to uh, getting audio through, but no video to the picture breaking up.

We're getting uh, red lines through it, all sorts of jazz like that. So gee, yeah, I don't know. Um, you know BGA could be a thermal thing happening with the BGA perhaps? Who knows. Um, yeah, nothing's really pinpointing this fault down to to any particular area at all.

So you just got to generally bum around hoping to find something. Well, I've power it back up again, been playing around with it, and I'm getting nothing on the screen now at all. So um, the you know the backlights are working, Everything's um, just fine. although those all those power rails look good and and you know it's given the boot up thing and everything's hunky dory.

So I don't know. It seems to be getting progressively, uh, worse and worse. Pretty much so. Not sure what the deal is.

anyway. um I'm going to have to leave it there because I'm running I've run out of time to do this and uh, well, yeah. I don't know I'll have to have another crack at it, but my my mom wants a TV back and well, it could be uh, uh, I don't know. beyond economical.

uh Time Repair Anyway, um, in terms of getting her TV back. so I don't know. Anyway, hope you enjoyed that. Yeah, sorry, it's a non-event Again, people will be pissed off.

Oh well. so if you're a bit peeved off. I didn't fix it in this video. Well, tough luck.

Don't leave some stupid comment. why didn't you fix it? Why didn't you upload the video unless you fixed it? God Unbelievable. I'll get people commenting like that anyway. Catch you next time.