Hi This is going to be a First Impressions video of the new Ryol Dp832 uh5 w triple output programmable power supply. And here's the box. and I'm going to open it up. and yes, this will be a First Impressions video.

So if you're expecting a proper, uh, professional review video, um, this is not the thing for you I Know some people don't like the First Impressions videos. well sorry I like doing them so we're going to do them. So let's take a look at this thing. Um, the beautiful thing about this.

it is 4 and uh9 and it's a similar Australian price. It's about $420 or thereabouts. Uh, quite cheap. Do not confuse it with the 832a.

The 832a is a higher resolution model with a color display. um and uh, some various software options as we'll go into now. Uh, here we go. this thing.

The thing about this power supply is is that it. um, we got a USB cable by the way, um Australian plug and a quick start guide in here. Now the thing about this power supply is that it is, uh, software upgradable. Now the reason that I got that atten power supply.

if you remember the video of that, um some time back we'll take a look at this. Let me just get it out of the box. I bought that ATN Power supply. It was also just over the $400 Mark so the same price as this but it was a Precision Power Supply you know, 05% class instrument and uh, it was much, uh you know it was.

It was basically the cheapest. uh Precision triple output power supply you could get and that's what I wanted a Precision triple output power supply. so let's get rid of the box and that's why I didn't look at this one cuz I thought this one was um $700 and the 832a model is. but the 832 model which we've got here is only just over $400 and you can get a software upgrade for it a a highr software upgrade option which we'll take a look at um which I've got for this thing by the way, which is only um, $90 or thereabouts for that.

So basically $500 class triple output power supply and oh, look at that isn't that sexy. Check that out. You're either going to love it or you're going to hate it. Now somebody on the Forum uh, photoshopped a version of this.

It's a Hello Kitty version and it's absolutely hilarious. I'll have to, um, include that in the video I think absolutely hilarious. but yeah, look at this wanky. Um, yeah, we do have a knob.

It's not pushable though, but bummer. But look at that wanky circular keypad. Arrangement That's just ridiculous really. But apart from that, um I don't mind it.

All the rubber bumpers on here are a bit wanky too, but you know, ah, they, they do the job I would have I don't know. you can take them off if you want, just undo them. Looks like they just unscrew. but anyway, it is a triple output uh power supply but apart from the circular keypad arrangement I do not like it's got separate Um buttons separate one channel 1, 2 and three buttons separate onoff buttons for each Channel all onoff very nice and uh, a few utility buttons and some soft buttons cuz it's got a 3 and 1/2 in uh screen on it and there is a difference between the 832 model and the 832a.

The 832a uh has a different it has a full color screen whereas this one's only mono and it also has a different graphical user interface arrangement for displaying the voltages and I actually prefer the DPA 832 I don't like the it's sort of segmented into three segments like that on the 832a, but on the 832 as we'll see when we power this thing up, it's got them lined up 1 2 3 like that when we have a look. but anyway, um, it looks and feels very very nice I like it. let's take a look at the back of it and uh now here's the thing. As I said, this is a software upgradable unit and it comes fully fitted with all the options standard or well with all the with all the hardware built in.

but then they're software upgradeable so Rs232 is in there. the digital IO is in there USB device and host and the landan interface as well. But if you want the Rs232 and the Lan you can. they don't work unless you install the software license key I think that's about 120 bucks for those to.

uh the digital IO is a $90 software option and as I said, I've got I purchased. also the high resolution option which gives you an order of magnitude better resolution. uh set in and reading back as well so we'll take a look at that when we power it on, but uh, we're ready to go. It is, uh, switchable.

It it is a linear power supply. it's not a switch mode Supply So we've got some real uh Taps on the Transformer here. it is set up for 230 volts out of the box nice and I am a bit of a sucker for instruments that you can sit on theor floor like this on the rubber feet and you can get a right angle power cord out of this thing and then you can operate it sitting on the floor. and I I just find that incredibly useful for some Uh scenarios.

I've often used Scopes and many other instruments like that. um on the floor when I haven't had enough bench space or I'm using using them. uh, you know, in a production facility or in some other um, you know, uh, uh, some other scenario where that just works and they've got that. Brilliant.

And it does have a carry handle on one side I think it weighs about 10 kilos or thereabouts. but uh, it does. The strap feels excellent quality so no problems at all. Thumbs up on the build quality, that's for sure.

As I said I purchased the highr option the highr DP uh, 800 and that gives an order of magnitude better um resolution. Now I won't reveal my license key on here, but I I don't think it matters even if I did. but apparently you got to go to the website. it's got instructions here.

You type in your Uh key, your Um key which they give you here and then your serial number of your unit and then it gives you a code which then you can a license key which then you can enter into your power supply and bingo you enable either the high reses option which I've got that was only uh, that's a $90 option to turn it into equivalent to that Attin power supply which I had now the attend power supply I I thought I would get used to it and and uh, use it and it wouldn't be you know I I'd just get used to it wouldn't be a problem but it just kept pissing me off every time I tried to use that thing. it was hopeless. I u I've sold that and I've got this Ry gold DP 832 and it should be much better I Like the nice slim form factor, it is very long though that you know what's that? 35 cm long, maybe 40 or something like that. That is a really deep power supply so uh, to fit it on your rack? Let's see, well, it fits on my rack nicely, so not a problem whatsoever.

Now as I said, this is about 195 W Uh, Total Power Power Supply: 30 Vols 3 amps, two separate isolated 30 volt 3 amp outputs, and one common 5volt 3amp output. Oh well, up to 5 Vols So 0 to 5 Vol 0 to uh, 30 volts, and um 5 Vols 3 amps and you'll notice that it actually tells you there that these two are common. So your third Channel Un unfortunately is not uh, isolated like it was on the atten uh power supply for example. But for most usage scenarios I can think of, that's not a huge deal.

Um, for for me, it's a at least you've got that one independent, uh, floating. um Supply output. So more than good enough. So I would you know that would rarely be a limitation for anyone not having a true independent isolated output there? But anyway, uh, let's power this thing on.

As I said, do not like this keypad Arrangement at all. That is just. ah, it's ridiculous. The keys are angled down like this.

Oh, it's horrid. Look at that. It's just a it's just awful look. No, no wrong, fail.

But anyway, it should be a lot easier to use than that pain in the ass at end power supply. anyway, here we go. First time powering up. hopefully the Magic Smoke doesn't uh escape and first thing I noticed is I can he the fan? Oh there we go.

We got green green screen immediately. uh pops up there and yeah, the fan, it's it's certainly you can hear it I yeah, whether or not we'll load it down later and uh, obviously it'll go I think it'll go louder than that? I'm sure it's a temperature controlled uh fan in this thing, but here you go. Nice triple output display here and I it looks like because we haven't switched it on, then they're not. uh, not showing anything here at all.

but I like how it's got Channel One channel 2 channel 3 and that corresponds to these channels over here I mean I would have preferred to of course had these buttons Associated just above the you know above the actual outputs that they're related to there. but at least they're lined up. You know, channel 3 is that one. Channel two is that one? Channel one is that one.

but as I said in the 832a model, the high-end model that you pay uh, over 700 bucks for they don't have this display this nice vertical column based display like that. they've got it like segmented into some stupid triple display like that I don't know I don't like it at all I much prefer this one so that's quite nice and apparently you can change the color on this and they got a lot of info here. I really like it. They've got the voltage, the current, and the power and you'll notice that we've only got uh, 10, um, 10 molts resolution there and 10 milliamps resolution on the current.

That's because I haven't installed that high res option yet, so we should. When we install that software option, get an extra digit on both of those and I reckon that's not not for everyone, but I reckon it's a good thing and I reckon it's probably worth the extra 90 bucks to get that all right. Now let's just uh, now let's have a play around with this thing. First thing I'm going to do is switch the channel on.

There we go. and yeah, they lit up that is very, very bright I like that and you turn, turn them all on. Fantastic and it looks like it's uh, it's reading back the voltage. that one's giving us a one there.

so there's at least significant, small, least significant uh digit there error there. Not a big deal and then we can select. Yeah, that. selects those buttons.

Select Very good. It highlights it with that uh, rectangle. That's all nice and presumably can you just ah, set here? We go there, we go. So we're just changing our voltage there by default.

See, this knob doesn't stick out far enough. You can't get your fingers on there. your fingers are hitting these buttons. No wonder they angled them in.

Why didn't they just make the knob bigger? I Mean that's I can barely get my fingers on that. and I don't have big fingers either. That's just. that's that's that's ridiculous.

Unbelievable. And at least they did put these little um, uh, you know, flanges on here. So then you can. You've got some grip when you can spin it like that.

And anyway, it is going up by default in 10 molt increments. There's some lag there. Look, it doesn't read it. doesn't update that until I let it go.

So as I'm turning that that should I don't I don't like that I'd like to have some sort I'd like to at least have that update as fast as this. If I go slow, it does. But look, if I go fast, nut doesn't keep up I Don't like that. they need to fix that in software.

now. The other thing of course is that there is no veloc vity knob control there, so it's just linearly increasing as I go up. I'd like to see some velocity control. thank you very much now.

I Do really like the information on this display and how they've laid it out. I Don't think they could do any better here. I Mean we've got the measured output voltage. We've got the measured output current.

We've got the measured output power with 1 M Resolution Fantastic! We've got our set voltage down here. We've got a set current. These are quite small. I Mean you know, maybe if you haven't got good eyesight, you wouldn't be able to see those from a distance.

but I can certainly read those just from maybe a meter away, you know without having to sort of squint and concentrate. But they are a bit small, but they've tried to jam as much information on here as possible and they have made these ones bigger and give them that seven segment display look and they do look really good. The decimal point in there is Tiny Um, that's really hard to see, but you know that's that's uh, fixed actually. so really, you know you would.

it's it's not a huge deal, but yeah. I Do really like how they've done this and that is really easy to use and adjust the voltage on all three of those channels. By default it just jumps over to the Um voltage and I presume if you press this, doesn't switch to the current. No, There we go.

you can go up and down. Ah, there we go. this one Scrolls across and selects the digit that you turn in. obviously so if you want to go for oh, upper voltage limit reached that's our voltage.

uh threshold, uh sorry our up our voltage limit and yeah I but at least that's pretty easy to use. Like you don't have to shift key anything you just select and and inverse highlights the individual digit and then just goes up. So that's not too to bad at all. And the good thing is it does actually remember where you position that for each channel.

So I've positioned the cursor on the 10 molt position there and it remembered that I positioned the cursor on the 100 molt position there and I've positioned the cursor on that one so it remembers when you swap between channels. Let's see if it remembers when you power down, maybe not I doubt it. I'd be surprised if it did, but at least it remembers it when you're powered on, which is great. Doesn't take a huge amount of time to power on and uh, no, it reset and do.

I uh thought that you would like, uh, press these for voltage or current or something. Of course you don't these Keys over here. it's here if you want to, uh, adjust your current. There it is.

and once again, it remembers that you're in that current set position for that rain. so that could be annoying or incredibly useful depending on what you actually wanted to do at the time. But I Really like that. That's easy.

voltage, current. These things are always here on the menus by the looks of it. and then you can use your knob to adjust that. And once again.

Um, the 832 does come standard with 1 Molt set resolution here. Um, so that's pretty good for the base model. Uh, $400 unit. I Really like that, but once again, no key, no velocity key there.

but you can actually go in and switch the digit like that if you really want to. but that works well. I'm I'm happy with the user interface for a change. It beats the crap out of that piece of at end power supply that's for sure.

Now what does this button here do? It looks like it's a timer or something. it's going hey, wanky dials. Look at that. Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear oh dear with it like a dashboard display.

Oh no. I don't think oh, you dedicated a button to that. Unbelievable. Now let's check the tracking capability here of presumably the two channels.

I mean the 5V 3 amp 1's independent so it'll track between channels one and two. So we're selected two here at the moment. I Don't know why? let's just randomly select two turn tracking on. Check that out.

We've got a little link there to show that they're actually uh, that they're tracked and if we adjust can we adjust voltage? Oh, there we go. Yeah, there we go. We're doing it on Channel two and if we do it on Channel one, not the channel is tracking. State Setting cannot be modified.

Okay, so it looks like you got to use Channel 2 there. and if we have a look at the over current protection here, there we go. It's selected that and we can change that with 1 milliamp resolution. Excellent.

So if you, uh, want to protect your circuits, which you should, of course, then no. Chinglish By the way, popping up over current protection upper limit, you know that's all right. Not a problem. Did they have an extra digit on there? Yep.

I think they did. Anyway, that works quite well. So if you want to protect your circuits from over current. Excellent feature and looks like it's the same with the over voltage protection.

I Like that you can just toggle it like that, press it once, twice, toggle it off, and on and it highlights. I Really like the highlighting function of that. and there you go. You can set your upper voltage as well.

For example, a lot of people ask, you know why, why do you need something like this like this? Over voltage, overcurrent protection? Well, what happens if you've got this power supply? Okay, Paing, your brand new $100,000 prototype board. Paing the 3.3 volt rail directly and you've got you know, massive expensive chips on there and you can blow up the whole thing if some idiot just comes along and oh, bumps the knob or something like that, or does something well, you know. Bingo You're blowing up your $100,000 board and they're going to sack your ass. You know? Well, this just allows you.

If you're powering 3.3 volts, you might say put 3.4 volts in there, set it, and then if some idiot comes like, let's go in there. Oh look, we haven't even tried to enter a value in yet. We probably should try and use this stupid 3. let's say 3.4 volts.

There we go. Okay, there we go. So we set our upper limit to 3.4 volts. So now if some idiot like me comes along and we try and change our voltage of Channel Two here.

Oh, over current protection. Yeah, there we go. It just automatically switched it off. There it is.

So let's there we go. Let's turn it on. There we go, cuz we haven't reached our limit. There it is 3.3 So if we go up to 3.4 if we accidentally T there we go.

It switched it off and we've protected our board. Excellent. So those sort of features can be an absolute Lifesaver over voltage and over current protection. For when you're first powering up a prototype or you're powering a real expensive thing, you don't want to blow the ass out of it.

If you have a brain fart and it doesn't matter if somebody else comes along and twiddles it, you can do it yourself. You know, accidentally choose. You know if you've got Channel Uh One selected and you meant to turn Channel two and your brain wasn't in gear and you adjusted the value on Channel one and you blew up your board. Oh, so these features can help you do that.

Over voltage, over current protection and they're there right at your fingertips where you need them. I Really like this user interface. They thought about that and we can haven't tried that yet. All on.

Enable all outputs. Oh, there we go. You can't just switch it, switch them on willy-nilly you've got to go okay, whether or not you want that. H There we go.

Our overcurrent, uh, protection is just switched on and so well our over voltage protection just switched on and I just uh, restored. The factory defaults here and presumably you can, uh, preset things so you know preset, favorite outputs and stuff like that probably under the store function here we'll take a look at. but uh, here we go like you know, this is it. I mean this is how easy it is to use.

Turn on Channel One, Press that and we've got voltage mode and then say we wanted uh, 10 volts. We could enter 10 and then just go boom And then if we enter, uh, what if we go 1.9 and then press amps. There you go it, order. You don't even have to switch between these mode buttons here.

It knows that's clever. That's clever. I Really like that Someone was thinking there. Excellent.

And by the looks of that little key lock on there key lock symbol there, we're going to be able to lock out the keypad. which is another thing you want to do when you, you know you've set this thing up. You're power in a critical prototype. Don't want anyone to dick around with it then.

presumably we can do that. It's in there somewhere we may not get around. But look, here's our internal: C Drive there we go. We can store or store or all our different states.

We'll have to have a play around with that. But here we go. Yeah. brightness.

Check it out. Haven't even. uh, it's by default. It's 50% brightness.

so let's adjust the brightness. Oh yeah, it's brighter. May as well put it up maximum and you can adjust the contrast too. Wow.

All right. Whoa. Look at that who. RGB Lum right? RGB Luminosity What's that? Oh, there we go.

That's the backlight. That's the backlight. I Don't like that at all. All right.

Can we get out of that? We're in waveform mode. Taada. There's our triple waveforms. Fantastic rolling rolling waveforms.

You can't You can probably barely see the trace, but you can see that one up there cuz I've uh, set it. That's really nice. We have to have a good play around with that. but I like that.

That's excellent. And then yeah, it looks like yeah, you can swap between the three channels that you want to set. Ah, beautiful. So voltage, current, and power Waveform rolling waveform graphs.

Fantastic. Oh I Got to admit, that's not the easiest way to get in there. I Guess it's okay once you get used to it, but it's not really a good way to dial that in stupid dial mode. See? why can't you program that dial mode to get into waveform mode? Who the hell wants dashboard dial mode? You got to be kidding me.

That should be like the waveform button. That's just ridiculous. So I'm not too happy with that. Not a showstopper, of course.

Nothing like it. and uh, custom goey wh? Oh there we go. That's uh, obviously the uh boot message I guess yeah, it looks like you can customize a boot message there. Okay, you do probably want that RGB Luminosity cuz that's the background look.

You can see that. you know if you turn it right down then of course all your borders and everything go away. but you don't want that I Like the fact that it's yeah. Well that's just silly to have it up like that.

So really, you're probably want that set to your 50% mode and then the display mode. You can go in up theme and you can just choose your different color scheme. I don't know. I like I like the green, let's try the blue.

Well, white. Some people might like white. Let's check that out. There we go.

Oh don't know, don't know. But anyway, it's good that you can actually Cho choose the option blue. No. I think Green's the Green's probably the pick there.

Actually, you do probably want to drop that Luminosity value down a bit because let's put it to 40. For example. There we go cuz that will determine how like faded those uh, background those disabled options are. Let's go into our utility menu.

see what we've got here. Lots of options, printer stuff, languages. There's that key lock option you can set that. Let's go to system.

What do we got? Power on option default? How do you? How do you change that? Oh, there we go last. Okay, so that will be the last. I presume that will boot up to the last value I'm guessing and yep I just confirm that by turning off and on. It goes back although it doesn't.

Uh, restore by default. doesn't restore the channels on which I guess is a good safety measure, but it does restore to your previous voltage. Otherwise, it defaults to zero and you can turn the keypad beeper off and on. But I Really like.

It's a very subtle low noise beep on this thing. just enough to give you that tiny audible feedback. I Really like that. Very non-intrusive and it's got a screen saver.

and for those playing along at home, there's my digital version presumably that's you know, the firmware version inside and that's my serial number. We go to the second option screen here. We've got a test cow menu and that shows us the last time it was calibrated that would have been the factory calibration. Um, the 1st of July 2013 the top board bottom board.

Presumably there's two boards in this and it shows the current uh temperature as well. So there you go and we can manual cow, but we probably shouldn't do that password. Okay, yeah, let's not go in and calibrate this thing, shall we? Now if we go into options here, here is our software options: I Believe and aha. look at this by default from the factory it's installed a trial Tyu license I think it's trial left time.

we've got some Chinglish Ah had to get it somewhere. Love it Ty Ru trial time left I presume that's 35 hours and 30 minutes. uh left for the analyzer option which we haven't looked at yet, the monitor option we haven't looked at and I don't have any Lan Rs232 or trigger all the accuracy options. But what I'm going to do now is I'm going to go inst my license option.

Let me go to the web and get my license key and enter it in and see if how do you get back there. We go see if we get we should get an extra digit resolution on there so our decimal point should shift over. We should get 1 Molt resolution and 1 Mamp current resolution as well. And just before I install that license code I'll just check the accuracy of this thing now.

I Don't expect the license code to change the accuracy at all. It only changes the resolution. the accuracy of both the 832 and the 83 2 a or with the option Remains the Same So there we go. It's set to do a 10 volts output 10.00 bang on.

Basically not a problem. This one should be 5.0 and it is not a problem whatsoever. And the readback one pretty. You know it's one least significant.

As long as you're within one least significant digit, you're fine. and this one should be 4. Vols And it is no problems at all. And installing this 32 digigit license key could take a while.

Success. We're in like Flynn now. I've gone back to the main screen here and I don't automatically get the extra resolution? Maybe I got to repower the thing or something. Aha, there we go.

We got it. Yeah, just had to repower it Bingo 1 molt resolution here and 1 milliamp resolution on our current and just for a bit more accuracy here. Let's check it out. It's sh.

it's set to 10 volts so 10 Vols 10 volts and 5 volts on the third. Channel And it's reading back 9991 volts and it's actually 998 Vols But that's within spec because the spec is 05% Uh, plus 10 molts I believe. So uh, 05% is actually 5 molts of 10 volts there. So it's within spec, but you know it.

I Guess it's just a bit annoying when you see it set to 10 volts and you're reading back 9991 volts But you got to remember you're well. with ins Speec and Channel Two, there is closer it's reading 10. before we're getting 10.09 and the third Channel Well bang on to the least significant digit 4998 Beauty and current accuracy pretty much almost bang on as well to uh, plusus one least significant digit 1.0 1.01 second Channel also within one least significant digit and likewise on the third Channel One least significant digit. So accuracy of this thing? Yep, well within spec.

and that's one of the reasons why I Wanted a precision power supply for my lab here cuz you know I'm sick of just the crude uh, you know, power supplies that oh, plus - 1% or something on their voltage reading. you know, or something like that. No, this thing you can set it to, you know, 5.0 volts and you're sure it's going to be there. You don't have to get your multimeter out and double check it.

Very convenient, well worth having on your bench. So these Precision Power Supplies really are like having an inbuilt you know for 4 and A2 digigit Precision 05% multimeter built in and that's just really, really handy. I Like it now. I Think the Uh Attend power supply, which I'm replacing this one with is had slightly better specs in theory or something, but there's not much in it at all.

This thing more than what you'd need almost in any lab. Got to have a winge about this because it's just it's just useless. This help button, right? You press help, press, press the corresponding key. uh, enable or disable the output of the corresponding Channel Who would have guessed? duh? Why bother? Seriously, why bother dedicating a key to that? It's just ridiculous.

Turn all the channels enable or disable output of all the channels. Oh I just one thing. I hate is wasted keys on the front like this stupid bloody speed. you know.

make that programmable to go to. You know something useful instead of that stupid thing. And the help button. give me a break.

But that being said, I'm not left for wanting much on this front panel layout. Yeah, I don't like this rotary uh dial here. but I do like the way it all works and they've got most of your almost every function you need. a pretty much reasonably direct access.

So pretty happy with the user interface really. And I really am getting quite used to using this already, You know? Channel 2 Oh I Want 30 volts on Channel 2? Thank you very much. Channel Uh three there I Want you know? One amp? there? It is. Channel One I Want you know? 0.9 amps? Ah, Beautiful.

So yeah. One tradeoff you do get with these programmable Precision Power Supplies is unfortunately that separate direct knob access to each voltage and current on each channel. It's a little bit harder to use now, you know than your traditional dumbass uh, bench power supply. but the extra capability in this well worth.

Let's test the angle of the screen that's straight on there and let's go right to the side. doesn't vanish at all. That is excellent from both sides. Oh my.

LCD Oh is getting in the way there and up? Look at that very very nice and down as you'd typically have it if you had it up high on a uh, on a rack or something. Beautiful. Angle is fantastic. and if we go into time timer mode here like we saw on that at end, Supply It's got uh, a really neat programmable uh, multistep timer so you can set the voltage and the current and then how many seconds and then you can step through that and it's going to show you a graph of how it does that up there so you can cycle through various things.

Awesome! And then you've got uh, programmable groups in here as well. Then you got how many cycles you can cycle through. infinite or whatever. Fantastic you can SA even read them and in the states and looks like in a template.

Fantastic. but yeah, that looks really powerful. So to program that, we just go into parameter here and then we just choose the one we want and then we just go down here and then we can just go. Let's say we want one volt in there, then Wh? Okay and then we can go.

over here and let's say we want two volts. Not a problem and we can go through and set all these things and it's going to show us our oh, this is not Live output is. show us showing us how we've set it up and we've got no shortage of the number of steps on here. Jeez, where's the limit? Oh well.

over 100. That's good enough actually. This damn thing's got so many options. I I Don't think I'm going to have time to play around with it now.

Crazily powerful. Then if we press this button here, we get into the various Uh tools that are available and you remember the analyzer and the Monda had that license trial license key installed and let's go into the monitor here. We can set up and or conditions for various voltage, current and power and then do certain stuff. we can switch the output off.

we can warn we can have the Beeper go off. Fantastic! And by the way, we did get a cow certificate with this but uh no no uh measurements or anything like that. but hey, better than nothing. And we also got three spare fuses and the uh terminal output block as well.

Nice just in case you buy that option and uh well, you don't know. have to go buy that the connector Beauty Now let's see what happens when we load this thing down. I Got 50 wats constant load here. Let's switch that on and Bam there we go.

Oh look at that. 49.99 6 Not a problem. Beautiful 40 Let's see what happens. Oh, there we go.

we're hiccup in. but yeah, there's no like relay switching or anything. Nothing seems to be going. uh, you know? well let's turn it off and it's recovered.

Not a problem at all, but uh, showing a residual 21 Ms there? Look at that. But yeah, no, that's not killing this thing at all. No. I Stand corrected.

I Do hear very, very faint relay clicking about uh, uh, 2 or three Herz or thereabouts or two. Well, you know, probably in line with how it's doing that. So very, very, uh, low noise on the internal relays in there, but they're certainly switching away. No, and of course that recovered just nicely.

Haven't killed it. Beautiful. survives the power supply killer Awesome. And I've got to drawn a total external load here at the moment of 176 watts and it's barely even breaking a sweat.

But yes, the fan does get louder, but still not hugely loud though. I Like it. And let's take a look at the power supply noise here. It's supposed to be around 2 Vols uh Peak to Peak but I'm getting around 4 molts Peak to Peak But that's nothing wrong with the power supply.

That's my lab lights here, so let me switch those off as I've done in a previous video. that's a common mode noise pickup. So there we go. switched it off and yeah, it's a around that 2 molt Peak to Peak figure 20 MHz bandwidth limit.

Of course you'll always do this around 20 uh MHz bandwidth and it's supposed to be around 350 microvolts RMS But really, you've got to dick around properly to try and measure this and it's down around the 5 600 microvolt figure I'm I'm sure it meets the spec. I'm not going to dick around trying to absolutely get rid of every noise in this system possible just to measure that. It's good enough. This is a pretty low noise power supply and let's see that noise with and without a 40 W load, that's no load at all.

I'm about to connect a 40 W resistive load h No drama and we'll measure the switch on transient performance. with that 40 W resistive load. Here we go. I'm going to switch on Channel one and Bang! That's beautiful.

No overshoot or anything. Fantastic. That's a 20 milliseconds per division. Great stuff and the same transient response with no load at all.

Boom there it is. And the third Channel with 5 Vols and no load, let's see what happens. Switch it on and bang. Not a problem and just to make sure it does absolutely nothing, let me reset that when I switch it on because it should default to off up here.

So let's switch that on. Oh no, Look at that. It has actually switched on two. Vol We gotten two volts on our output there.

Let me try that again at the lower time base. W Look at that. What's going on there? Look at this when it switches on. For 250 milliseconds, we're getting 1 volt per division.

we're getting a volt and a half on that output. Isn't that very curious? Let me see what happens if I can do the same thing with a Uh with a load on there with a 10 ohm resistive load. Here we we go. No, There we go.

There we go. Just some. Just some ringing there, nothing at all. there.

nothing, nothing doing there at all. But with no load, let's repeat that with no load. switch off and switch on. Whoow.

There you go. There's no grunt behind it. I Don't think. but really? um, that's Ry Go, please explain and I'll try the second.

Channel Now let's switch that on and look at this. It goes negative: 0. You know, 4 volts. Not a huge deal, right? There's this huge Spike here.

I Mean, but that's you. know there's nothing doing there at all I Think if we load that down, we're not going to see anything there at all. So let's put our load on there. Shall we? And uh, do that again? And there we we go.

We got a 10 ohm load on there and oh no, we're getting no. We're still getting our transient see if we let's see if we can capture that transient again with the load on here. 10 ohm load Channel two and bingo, look at that with a 10 ohm load. we've captured that transient.

Look at that and that's goes up to one 2 3 4V transient at switch on I wonder what's happening? It's not a you know. it's not like it's jumping up to 30 volts or something horrendous like that. but yeah, jeez. All right there we go.

Mental note that uh, you know, if you're pairing critical boards, um, don't hook them up before you. You know, when you switch it on like that, there's not a huge overload there. Channel One: there didn't seem to be any power in that at all. It went away when we, uh, put the load on.

but so, um, I certainly don't class that as a uh as a showstopper at all. but uh, it certainly just wor worth uh considering and probably worth getting an answer from. uh, ryol on that one. I mean channel one just shoots to 1 and A2 Volts for you know, a couple hundred milliseconds there and the other Channel 2 did that.

uh, really weird. um, impulse there going up to 4 volts when you switched it on even though the outputs weren't on at all and the output binding post look and feel decent quality. Yes, they do have the standard uh spacing of course and they don't come off so you can't lose them or something. Body can't steal it.

They do have the hole in there for putting your wire through and the metal back in just on there so you can just put uh uh, you know, uh Spade lugs around there as well and it's going to work a treat. So there you have it. That's just a first impression. Uh, first play around with this Ryo 832 power supply and I'm very very impressed.

It's a Bobby Desler really is an absolute Beauty and uh, very happy to replace that heaper crap attin I had with this one. The usability is excellent. yeah I still don't like the looks of it, but now how this thing works, it just works as I expect the damn thing to work and I couldn't kill it and uh, its performance is pretty good. It spec is awesome and yeah, some people aren't going to like the fact that they software this thing, but they've priced the options pretty well.

I think and um, you know I I didn't mind paying the extra to get that high res option on this thing and you can install it a later date If you find you need the digital outputs for you know, um, some sort of system automation or something like that. you need the land capability or you just buy the software option and you get it. So I don't know H Some people like it. Some people don't but if it means that I get this high-end power supply for you know, 400 bucks or whatever and then pay an extra 90 bucks sub $500 for that $500 power supply to get a triple output.

Precision Power Supply Like that, it's awesome. So much so I Don't know why anyone would probably buy the 832a because well, it. yeah it's got a color display and uh, but the display in my opinion is not as usable as this one. I Really like the display on this one's an absolute Beauty It's a little bit small to read from a distance, but it's all there and it integrates really well with the usability as thing.

But you can buy this base unit the 832 for just over 400 bucks and uh, and just get the options. so I don't know why you'd buy the 832a anyway. I think there might be some other subtle differences, but really? I don't think it justifies paying the extra um, 300 or 350 bucks or whatever it is. So this one's definitely going to get a lot of use here in the lab.

I Really like it and it's going to become my main Supply No doubt about it. Um, yeah, sorry. I didn't have time to look into like the you know it comes with the software and everything and how you hook it up and control it from the PC and all that sort of stuff. Ah and oh, there's all the monitor modes I didn't go into it.

monitor analyzer, recorder modes. all that sort of jazz man I Could spend a couple hours video just playing around with those I think. But first impressions are this is a really, really nice Supply I Don't know what else on the market is probably challenging it. There is a siglent one which is a similar sort of big color graphical display.

That's how they're all sort of going these days. But yeah, I Really like this one. It's going to take some beating at that $400 price point. Beauty Catch you next time.