Hi Welcome to Tear Down Tuesday I'm going to finish off tearing down this vintage 985 Sony Uh, Video8 the first Video8 camcer on the market back in 1985 and you saw me, uh, tear down the main guts of this before and I'll link to the video down below. If you haven't seen that, this is a followup where I didn't get time to tear down the CCD mechanism and the Uh lens system like this. So a lot of people asked, can we see this CCD down in there and rip the rest of this apart? Yep, we can do that and also the Uh CRT viewfinder as well. Let's go for it.

Now, this lens mechanism, as we saw when we did the first tear down is a bit of a work of art. There's a lot involved in this thing, the various Uh motors for the Uh Zoom, and for the Uh Focus mechanism. And there are four boards. Uh, no less than four boards sandwiched in this part in the back down here.

Five? I Think actually. Um, so there's quite a lot of circuitry down in there to support the CCD sensor which is clearly down in there. So we're going to have to crack open all of these boards one by one. there's four plastic retain.

Oh, there's two plastic retaining Clips there. so we need to pop that off. This board should pop off. Then we have to pop off the next one.

The next one. We should eventually get down to the CCD Now it looks like I may actually have to cut off these little plastic. Clips Here, it looks like they're not easily going to just squash and then lift the board off. They look like a one shot deal almost.

Um, so I think I'll just snip that off there. and yep, it just lifts. Uh, straight off. I Got black Gunk over my finger already.

not sure where that came from. Another retaining clip down in here? There we go. folded out and Bingo and on that board, more custom Sony stuff. Of course.

why they've put some sastic down there I'm not. uh, sure they've gunked. They've just gunked up a few of the pins there. I'm not actually sure why you'd bother to do that.

Anyway, there's a couple of trim pots down here. who knows what they're doing. And check out the number of trim pots on this thing. There's 11 of them.

Four here, three here, two, one. And thankfully we can actually get a look down at the silk screen they have thought thoughtfully labeled those for. So let's take a look. and I have no idea what those ones stand for off the top of my head.

Lxr offset and B offset? Who knows. And those two trim pots there? we've got Iris and AGC the automatic gain control and you can see that Gunk down there beautifully now. and uh. I Don't know.

Is there like a little mod under there that they're trying to protect? I Don't know. Weird, no, no sign of any mod under that. So why why they've done that? Your guess is as good as mine. More adjustments MRI MR2 Mb1 and Mb2 No idea.

And there we have a good old 4,000 series 4052 that's a jewel. Um, four-way Marx And if you thought 11 adjustments on the other one wasn't enough, here we go: 18 trim pots on this. Check it out! Unbelievable! BM RM by R Y MPX Rb2 G2 Rb1 G1 Oh man, what do all these things do? WC FG APL And we're not done yet folks, because if you flip it on its end, of course these ones. There's another two 4 68 trim pots there which are externally accessible.

So it looks like these ones here were designed to be, um, adjustable after sort of the whole assembly was put together now. I'm not sure what's under this plastic cover here. 23812 on it I think I'm going to lift the skirt on that perhaps and uh, have a have a look. Yeah, it's not coming willingly.

Um, so maybe it is. Yeah, it's looks like it's a through some sort of through hole, uh, component. It doesn't look like a large cap or anything like that. It's something.

something different. and there's no shortage of test points on this thing. All those posts down in there. so, uh, presumably somebody would have, uh, got the old scope probe? onto those or something.

Um, some test automated? uh, test system or something like that. perhaps? Um, during the setup of this thing cuz I presume they're not just for uh, servicing purposes I Would presume that they're also for um, adjustment during production. but the number of trimmers in this thing is just ridiculous really. And of course I Just realized after the fact, as always, that I didn't have to cut off these black uh, retaining Clips here because on the bottom of this board, there are these retaining Clips down here.

that's part of this plastic hinge mechanism here which then lifts this board up. stuck down. There we go, will come off. There we go.

It's got a clip and this just swings up like that. For ease of servicing and adjustment, do so. This is a rather neat system. It pops out like this and then Bingo this board now folds out like this.

Tada Look at that. Beautiful and looks like we got some heavy shielding under here for the Uh CCD and the video. uh, processing presumably. um, so let's take a look at that.

but as you can see, there's a whole bunch of uh, surf surface mount stuff on the bottom of this board. all uh, wave soldered by the way. um, as we explained in the previous uh video and let's take a look at this board, here is the one that we have to crack open to get access to that CCD down in there H And I was going to desolder that, but H Just easier to chop it off with the pair of side Cutters And there is the bottom of our CCD keyboard and we can see a couple of screws there which should allow us to pop that lens assembly off. I'm assuming that's the only thing holding that lens assembly onto this board and it looks like that CCD is actually uh, socketed if you have a look at the sort of that jeelan line header down there, you can see the silk screen around that and taken the screws off and you can sort of see.

Don't know if you can see down in there, but it looks like there's a socket right down in there that this thing is sitting on. So l So I've undone those screws. Let's see if this thing pops out. Oh yeah, Tada it's out there.

It is literally is a duwal wipe socket and the CCD is still down in there. Neat. It looks like they didn't have enough room on the main board so they had to squeeze in another couple of uh, little daugh boards around here. um with sort of a uh, one of those ribbon clear ribbon, uh cables.

there board to board interconnect directly solded in. but these looks like they do pop out with a uh, plastic retaining clip. So Bingo and no, that wasn't a heat sink, that was just a uh, metal retaining clip. or you know, some sort of board mounting uh clip.

And there's two dip eight packages on here. these are Texas Instruments SN 75, 361 and I checked in their um TTL to Moss uh uh converters. so they convert you know 5 Vols TTL into Moss logic level presumably. Um, the Moss logic level is what is required for the Uh CCD.

So driving the CCD I presume because it's not going from Moss to TTL, it's going from TTL to Moss. So um, maybe they're driving the clock for the CCD or something to that effect. And there's yet another small application strategic application of Gunk Why? And we found our main Crystal clock driver board 28.3716n 447 MHz And down under there another eight pin dip package. It's a motor roller Mmh 26 Cp1 and that is a dual Moss clock driver.

So just like the other uh Moss TT Moss drivers over here, this one is uh uh, presumably uh, driving the clock to the CCD itself which uh would be Moss signal level and that sucker can drive up to 1 and 1/2 amp so it can drive really highly capacitive uh Moss loads which presumably is what the CCD sensor requires. And here it is. Here's what everyone wanted to see: the Sony CCD sensor. It's an Iu21 K AA if that means anything to you.

If you want to do a Google search perhaps and you can see, it looks like a standard Uh ceramic um dip package in there with the side mounted pins. like that, you can see the gold pins coming out. So this is just a clamp mechanism to hold that chip in place on the back there. So if we undo these screws here, we should pop out and we should get a CCD with a Uh window on the top.

Or it may not even have a window. It may actually, uh, not be windowed at all. It may be just totally exposed and here it is. They've got couple of long threaded screws in there and that that should lift off? Tada Oh look at that.

No, it's still got. um, it's still got another housing protecting it in there. Jeez, and take out more screws. All right, let's lift the skirt on this thing and see.

Tada Ah, look at that. Beautiful and it looks like we have a rubber surround here which just lifts off and that gives us the glass windowed. CCD Look at that. It's H.

Certainly not a standard uh dip package. It's got integrated uh, screw mounts and everything else. It's uh, really, super specialized I wonder how much it uh, cost to manufacture this sucker in 1985? And there you have it. a Sony CCD sensor chip.

state-of-the-art for 19 85. Look at that. Beautiful! and if we pop it over, we got 62 1026 on the bottom. No idea what that means, but there you go.

That is a beautiful little 240 lines resolution CCD sensor and that's totally crotch moisten in state-of-the-art technology for 1985 and I was able to just pop off the uh polycarbonate cover there. no, it's not actually glass, it is some sort of polycarbonate material and uh, we're getting closer down into the main uh, uh, die down in there. but I doubt we're actually going to be able to uh, see anything down in there Anyway here: I'm using my Uh Mantis Elite uh microscope 3D microscope at the moment I'm sticking my Uh camera through the viewfinder here and of course you don't get the 3d effect that this mantis scope is capable of and it's only a time 10 lens unfortunately. So uh, that's the best I could do I Tried using my Uh Time 40 uh Olympus stereo microscope and I was able to uh, use that with my eyes and it uh, looked quite good but um, unfortunately I couldn't get any decent video through that.

So I'm using my mantis here and there's the entire sensor array and I'm not sure if you'll be able to see it, but you should eventually be able to see if you zoom in close enough enough. I'm using the camcord to zoom at the moment should be able to see um, the individual red, green, blue color lines. maybe not seeing if you counted them all up. you would actually um, get that 240 lines or something claimed by Sony for this uh CCD camera.

Ah, Bingo check it out! I Was able to finally get it under my stereo microscope so we zoom out there. we go look at that You can see the individual red, green and blue elements. The greens are done as lines and the Uh looks like the red and the blue are done as looks like little two looks like group of two elements. Now I'll show you the setup that I'm using here.

I'm using my secondary camcorder which is a Canon HFM 400 and this is my main camcorder of course which is the Canon Hfg10 and there's my Opteka Time 10 macro lens on there and it's pushed right up against the Uh Time 10 eyepiece of my Olympus SZ series stereo microscope. This is a really nice stereo microscope I've mentioned it before if you can pick them up on eBay and there's the sensor down there and I've got a x two barow lens on there. so normally this is uh uh, 0.7 times if you have it there. 0 uh well H sorry uh, seven times with the time 10 um eyepiece up here it's normally 7times to 40 times uh around there so it's 4 * 10 is 40 times.

but I've got the two times barow lens on there. so I've got a combined magnification of 80 times on the Olympus SED stereo microscope. and although I've got uh the Times 10 barow lens on the Canon here if I zoom right out of course that just allows me to, you know I really have to zoom intimes 10 like that to get a look at the individual pixels like that. But there you go, you can see that.

and the interesting thing is I'm not using my ring light here. I've got the ring light for the thing, but I turn it on and actually I'll turn it on. Let me I'll show you the uh, the display here now I'll turn it on there we go and it makes very little if any difference at all to the light that's actually on the image. But what makes a difference, right? Let me switch off my main uh lead lights up here and you'll find that the image will completely vanish.

So I've got my remote control here, switch off my lights and Bingo and the image has completely vanished even though I've got that ring light on there trying to light that thing up so the light is actually coming through. uh, the second eyepiece here and if you don't believe me, let me switch it back on. Okay, I've got my main LED lights back on. I'll switch off the ring light here and watch this you.

Pro I can't get it both in shot look I'll move my hand over look over that eyepiece. look if I completely cover up that eyepiece, there's nothing. So I'm actually getting the reflected light coming through that second eyepiece. That's the thing that actually makes or breaks this thing.

Go figure. It's like it's working reverse to how an ordinary stereo microscope could should and and normally does work in terms of having the ring light on the actual object. But for this particular setup, it needs the light coming through here. And if I get my ring light here, can make it really, really bright by putting it near the lens that second that second eyepiece there.

Look at that. Amazing. And I found that it really doesn't matter how close I get that ring lighter, whether or not I attach it, you know properly to the bottom under there cuz this has to be real close. I I took it off there I was originally getting issues and I found that I didn't actually need the thing.

What I needed was light through that second eyepiece and I can really get some rather ghostly artifacts actually by playing around with the ring light on the other side of this thing. look at that. I'm putting the ring light probably a centimeter away from the other eyepiece there and it's uh, it is rather unusual. Optical phenomenon I I Think it's really quite neat.

So if I put the eye ring light directly into the eyepiece and I adjust the brightness, I can and just the brightness of the displayed image as well. so that's rather neat clearly. the lights reflecting down there and going through the stereo Optics and and bouncing and bouncing back out. And let's get back to the main lens mechanism here.

Another board under here with a RICO uh chip down in there. It's not a Sony chip which most of the chips in this thing have been Sony but that's some sort of Rico device I'm not actually sure what let's get in there. it's a RICO RF 51 whatever the hell that is. and uh, we've got our um motors for the uh Zoom that would be the zoom.

Yep, that would be the zoom. No, sorry, that's yes, that's a Zoom motor there. and here we would have our focus focus motor there. it is.

so that eventually very high torque thing there. There we go. That's uh, there we? yeah, you can see it really spinning fast around in there. If I move the focus there we go.

So that's a high torque gearbox there and down in here we have our little Iris uh motor. it's it's a four wire job down in there and that uh sets. It's only like a Qu like an eighth turn or something like that. You can see the that Armature on there.

perhaps I don't know. It's a bit dark down in there, but it only turns like a quarter of a turn and that sets your iris. So let's have a look down the lens here and I can open and close the iris. Check it out.

Tada Fully open and all the way closed. Neat. and I don't think there's any point uh, taking that lens apart. There's no electronics in there.

it's just a typical uh zoom lens assembly really. but uh, that is. that is quite neat and that would have been state-ofthe-art for 1985. And of course I Just love the electronics construction.

All this foldy construction like this. Really very, very nice. That's that's almost a work of art. You could just always sit that up on the bench and just admire the beauty of that all day long.

Now let's take a squiz at this electronic viewfinder. It's uh, powered from 5 Vols It's a model VF 206 and uh, it's got a multi-pin weird ass little sort of D type uh adapter there. but uh, presumably this will just, uh, accept 5 Vols in and a regular composite uh video signal and it should, um, have a little miniature CRT in there and just take that composite signal and have um, the electronics in it to decode it and drive the CR and it's going to have the high voltage, uh stuff as well required for, um, any one of you know those. CRTs We do have a brightness adjust pot down in there, but apart from that, uh yeah, there's not much there at all, so should be.

Its operation should, uh, be pretty simple and taada. Yep, it's going to pop open here. We go. Hey, there we go.

Oh look at that. Beautiful. And that is exactly what you'd expect to see in this. There's the CRT assembly that just pops right out.

There pretty much works like a standard uh CRT except it's uh, just super duper miniature. And once again, the uh, you know, high voltage safety rules apply here. wouldn't have the same amount of energy that a uh, you know, a like a CIT monitor or a TV would have. but uh, just got to be careful.

Nonetheless, so we pop the PCB out here. Yeah, not much on that at all. all through whole stuff. ah, some surface mount on the back of course, but yeah, there's not much to it.

And of course, these miniature CRTs work exactly like their big brothers. You get in TVs monitors your oscilloscope or whatever. They're going to work exactly the same. There's going to be like a heater up here.

there's going to be a cathode here to generate the electrons, then there's going to be a couple of anode grids in there, and you're going to have your X and Y deflection coils in here. and uh, your phosphor screen up the top here. and that's you know. um, pretty much.

it works exactly like it does work exactly like a regular CRT except it's just miniature and well, it's cute. Look at it I like it. you can see there's a couple of uh, adjustment pots on here on the other side of the board, but they've got access holes on the bottom here. So we've got like a horizontal frequency.

We've got vertical hole. we've got vertical size. We've got uh Focus down here somewhere. Yeah.

Focus We've got contrast and stuff like that. so A Few little adjustments you'd expect to find on something like this. And on the other side of the board we got one main chip that controls it all a Hatachi ha one41 and a few large electros, a few trim pots and and a metal can the high voltage multiplier for the tube as you can see the coming out high voltage wire going over to the CRT So that is pretty much all she wrote. There's not much in that at all.

Um, and if you're wondering what these wires are doing going up into here, I Believe they're for uh, little indicator lights inside. Uh, here here you go. It tells you that there's three little um indicator lights that show up within the screen to tell you that you've got uh, low light and your uh uh tape run battery is going bad and your white balance as well. So they're three lead indicators so that'd be three little LEDs somewhere in there I'm not sure.

Oh yeah, there they are there. they are. You can probably see it there. they are down there so they would reflect onto the image and uh, but that's all there is.

um in this thing. it's just there's the C front of the CRT There and there's a mirror which just uh reflects it directly out here and then it's got a uh, an eye adjust as well. Not much to it now unfortunately. I don't actually remember this uh working from the unit itself.

So uh, there could actually be a fault with this thing and well I haven't got time for today. So I am going to uh, leave this thing I've done a preliminary uh Power Up of it I think I've uh, found the Uh 5volt input. It's a little bit hard to trace these boards with all the silk screen on there. It's a bit of a pain in the butt actually.

but uh I think I've found the 5vt input and I've powered it up. It's drawing about 120 milliamps or so. um, which I don't know? seems about right? I guess um but yeah, nothing. uh, nothing happens.

So really, this uh is going to require some work for another video. but these little miniature CRTs are fun little uh things if you Salvage an old uh video camera um camcorder. they still using these up in to the the 2000s I think these little miniature uh SE Well, definitely into the Uh 2000s. these little Min miniature SE so they're really quite, uh, nice.

You can use them for lots of Novel little projects I really like them so um, hopefully I can get uh this one up and running. If so, if anyone's got the full schematic for this, uh, Viewfinder, please let let me know it is a uh Sony VF 206 electronic viewfinder. So that would be, uh, most helpful if we could get a schematic for this thing and uh, hopefully, uh, try and get this CRT working and hopefully it's not uh, busted. Um, you know, irreversibly, uh, busted.

hopefully. uh, it either works or there's uh, just something wrong with the circuit or something. perhaps? uh, we'll have to see. But so there you have it.

That's a look in inside, a 1985 vintage state-of-the-art Sony camcorder and its CCD sensor and the electronics and little CIT viewfinder and if you like tear down Tuesday please give it a big thumbs up and if you want to discuss it, uh, the best place to do that is not in the YouTube uh comments. although you can certainly do that, the best place to uh, interact and discuss all my videos is over at the E blog Forum the link is below. Catch you next time.