Forum Topic: http://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog-specific/eevblog-318-makerbot-replicator-3d-printer-unboxing-review/'>http://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog-specific/eevblog-318-makerbot-replicator-3d-printer-unboxing-review/
Dave checks out the new Makerbot Replicator 3D printer and compares it to the old Thing-O-Matic.
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Dave checks out the new Makerbot Replicator 3D printer and compares it to the old Thing-O-Matic.
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Hi what time is it I think it's makot time. Brilliant! Charles At Makot sent me one of these new make aot uh replicators. It's the brand new model, not a kit anymore. It's uh, fully built and uh, you've seen me do some stuff on the Makot thinger Matic You've seen me build this and play around with it and it was a little bit.
you know, a little bit touchy. It needed some percussive maintenance. It need to be massaged and you know get the right tongue angle to try and uh, you know, get it working. but this is supposed to work out of the box so does it well.
I think if for MakerBot to stay in business, it's got to um because uh, this is no longer a kit Of course let build it yourself. and uh, that was one of the things that I said would happen with uh Make Aot. when they got the $10 million Venture Capital funding I predicted that they would no longer sell the kit, had to be built up and it certainly is. It's uh, made in, uh, their uh new y New York um uh bot cave in uh Brooklyn and well I What I'm going to do here is I'm going to, uh, well, unbox it and see probably in one continuous video shot how long it takes me to get it out and actually print something with it.
so we'll try and time this thing now. One thing. yeah, fragile. okay, but there's like it's just got make Aot on here.
Why not proudly say you know made in the USA Why not have some fancy box? Doesn't have to be apple fancy but you know or Amazon fancy but just you know something? it's just got Makey L made in the USA That's what set you apart from the cheap Chinese ones that are flooding the market. Now you can now get a built up fully built Chinese 3D printer for like ,000 Australian dollars. Not sure how good they are. Um, certainly not as big a build platform as this.
This one's got dual color. um so I don't know if this one is the jewel? um Step Struder uh nozzle to give us the jewel colors or not? Um, not sure what they sent us, but anyway, let's crack it open and find out. Got my trusty Victorinox mini Champ here and let's go and uh, see what the yes I expected something a bit better on the box I Think they need to be a bit prouder, you know, made in the USA and uh, maybe if it had like a maybe you know, like a 3D printed object or something stuck on the outside, that would be really kind of sweet. you know I I know this isn't Consumer business and stuff like that.
but I I just think they can probably do something a bit better in the Box Department after. Oh by the way, um, this is about $1,700 I think $1,750 uh for the single uh, extruder nozzle one and about two grand for the jewel nozzle one. So um, I'm gonna have to put this down on the ground. doesn't weigh a huge amount, but uh, let's check it out here.
Here we go. all right now. What do we got here and it's been all the way was fedexed? There's nothing in there, so toss that and uh, who. All right now.
What's the packaging like? read me before unpacking I bet to read that I Guess here we go. let's have a look here. Tada Welcome To our world, if you're reading this, you've just become a proud owner of the Replicator. We're excited to have you join the Greater Community We're ploud of the MakerBot You are unpacking. You have a great time creating things, blah blah personal manufacturing Frontier Yay yay Woohoo! enclosing this box setup guide blah blah blah. Can't wait to see what you make thingy verse awesome Brie Thank you very much Brie and uh, make Aot C and co-founder So yeah, all right we maybe we should, uh, read the setup guide. Here we go. Let's have a look here.
How to unpack the replicator? Take it out of the box. Is it all in? English it is. Oh look, it's It's not bad. they've They've put a bit of work into this I Don't mind this at all.
and uh. unpack the replicator, Take it out of the box, open the accessory box, take the step. Struder Mark 8 out of the box. Oh okay, it comes separately.
raise the build platform, and uh, yeah, so you've got to looks like yeah, you've got to plug a few things into place. install the cable retainer, secure the step scuder onto the mount. There's a few steps here, could take a while. It's not exactly Straight Out of the Box there's a couple of.
there's a spool holder. yeah, install the filament guide tubes. yeah, plug in the power and uh Mount filament. and this one of course comes with the LCD uh built in and then the replicator.
G software I'm assuming like it comes with an SD card to print something straight away and I believe you get a 1 kilo spool of uh filament with it as well. So anyway, we'll have to follow that guide. but T let's let's see how well it's packaged. It's it looks like, see, they've got these.
um, they've got these folder bits of cardboard here which sort of gives it that inner shell. kind of, uh, you know, inner shell protection. so there's nothing actually down in there. There's nothing filling it in and this just sort of holds it in place.
and uh, so that's not the protection. The packaging protection is not too bad at all. It's got the same on the bottom as well. so I don't mind that I don't mind that at all.
And uh, let's have a look here. Ah, there we go, right? this is the accessory box. Looks like there's still laser cut. everything all right? Oh, the build platform looks really nice.
we'll check that out and uh, we got our spool holders and uh, we've got our capped on tape and accessories or a few screws and things like that. and uh, looks like a couple of 3D test prints they've cuz they test these. Each one is individually, uh, tested before it's shipped. So excellent.
And uh w we have Super Lube Excellent! It needs to be lubed up and that's it for the accessory. P So here comes Tada let me turn it around and let's raise this out here. We go. Don't drop it.
Dave it's Taada, the replicator. Oh man. oh there's some stuff in the bottom too. We take a look at that but I don't care. We want to look at the oh, look at that. It's a thing of beauty. It really is. It really looks the business.
I Love it. It's still a laser cut of course, but they have. Have they wiped it down? Ah, not fully. So you still get that.
You still get that burn mark. You know you still get that blackened uh charcoal kind of effect anyway. I don't know if they should stick with that. Let's Tada peel that off and uh oh, have a look at the buttons in a minute.
I Kind of like that little membrane there, but uh, let's have a look at the rest of this thing. It's rather interesting. I um I don't think we're going to I don't think I'm just going to uh, be able to do this in one continuous uh shot. Really? it could take an hour to get this thing up and running.
So uh yeah? I don't know if I'll time it or not. Um, there's a whole bunch of cardboard down there. Oh yeah, look I really do need to uh, read the manual I think but look, it's brilliant, looks great, and that build platform is fully machined I'll give you a yeah I'll have to give you a tour of this. it's very good.
so let me try and get the right angles and we'll go for a tour. And if you have a look at the heated build platform here, you can see that it's actually a machined finish uh platform rather than just the aluminium plate that they used in the other one. and I watched a video with uh Brie uh explaining this how they, um, how that uh, the other aluminium plate when it came off the roll when it was right at the End of the Roll or something it would start uh, warping or it would be you know, differently, uh, manufactured and it would actually warp when it heats up. So they had to go to this expensive machined uh you know build platform plate and it really is quite nice.
You can see all these circular Machining marks on there and it really is beautiful. And they've pre-installed the Capon uh tape on there of course to stop your uh print uh sticking down which is, uh, really quite nice and uh I like that there's you know, attention to detail but I guess that was a lesson hard learned about uh, warping build plates and the quirks of these uh 3D printers and you know just how touchy they are and uh, to actually get a decent uh print so you know you have to overcome all these issues. and uh, they had to do it by getting an expensive machined aluminium plate. and what we have to do here is raise the build platform gently apparently to get the other boxes out.
and uh, beautiful and we'll see the changes in this cuz there are significant uh, platform, uh, changes by platform I mean you know how the system works between the Uh replicator and the old thinger. Matic so uh, there's significant differences. looks like they got the spools down in there I've only got by the way I only got the single uh, the single one single step stroter that's a it's an extra 250 bucks if you want the other head. maybe I could uh take the head off my other uh thinger mtic but maybe not I want I want to keep that one operational make aot filament 1 kilo there's nothing in there, it's empty cuz we only got the Uh only got the one but that one. They give you 1 kilo of uh ABS uh White ABS plastic. so you get the 1.8 mm ABS white excellent and um, there are. So let's let's put them side by side and uh, see the differences here. So we got the Thematic on the left there and uh, the significant differences are that, um, the build platform actually? uh, now, um, the build platform itself actually just moves up and down.
It doesn't move left and right. So the build platform itself. if we lower that down. Beautiful.
The build platform uh, just goes um up and down. whereas before, the build platform actually moved left and right. So X and Y AIS the build platform would move and the Uh and the nozzle would stay in the fixed location. the nozzle would move up and down.
But now the nozzle is the thing that moves and the platform stays still and the platform just raises up and down. So they've decided that, uh, clearly, that's a better way to do it and I think that's how more of the Uh commercial ones work as well. I think they work on that Uh principle too, and um, it's it's probably a better way to do it I suspect because the uh, the Uh nozzle the step Struder as they call it um, probably weighs a lot less than the Uh build platform to move and maybe it's just you know it uh works out better or uh. anyway.
they decided to do that, but it looks really neat. Look at that. the MakerBot replicator. Brilliant.
They've got the MakerBot symbol. it all looks pretty. Jazzy I like it. and uh, the let's have a look at some of the gears and stuff in here and uh, see if there's any difference Es Now they're using exactly the same boards as before.
by the looks of it. the limit switches there are exactly. They look to be exactly the same board as before or pretty close to it anyway. um, steeper.
Motors look uh, very similar to before and you can see. Not sure if you can see in there, but let's there we go. You can see that, uh, for example, this one here. This motor here has a belt going up to the top there which controls that top.
Rod which then controls that would be the Y AIS here if I can. Yep, that's the y- axis and you can see that move like that. So it, uh, it feels very precise. It does feel very precise.
so obviously they've clearly done that for a reason. Have sort of, you know, um, changed the design of how this thing works. presumably to give much greater precision and greater repeatability because there's no feedback in this system. It it had no feedback in the absolute position of the head. so they have to know. Oh, so they have to rely on the fact that there's no slippage in these belts and that's what was the big problem with the previous one. The thing Matic which you built yourself an earlier model maker Bots is that if you didn't get the belt tensions precisely correct, then um, you know you were screwed. The thing would, uh, step to the side and you'd end up with a print which gets that's supposed to be a straight cylinder and it's not and you end up with uh, something that's not straight because the uh, there wasn't enough torque in your motor or there was too much torque and there was backlashing your belts and the belts weren't tightened and uh, all sorts of jazz.
so that's that's rather quite nice. I Like that. and in here you can see the uh, see the platform where the head goes. so the head comes uh, nicely.
uh, cable tied things and we have to screw this in later. but uh, looks like it just screws in there somehow like that. No problems at all. I Can probably understand why they, uh, don't assemble this before they, uh, ship it just to prevent um, any damage and they don't want the weight on here.
When you're shipping this thing, you, you know the last thing you want is for this weight to be on here and then just you know, moving around and vibrating and doing all this sort of stuff during transport? So much better. I Think they've done the smart thing. take it off uh and put it in the Uh box itself inside the bubble wrap. So that's uh, that's probably a smart move on their part and if we look down here here, we've got a heated uh build platform and you'll notice the platform is much much bigger than the previous one and that's one of the uh, big selling points of the new one.
I think it's almost I'm not sure the percentage bigger, but you know that's like you know at least my outstretched hand there wide and if you compare that you know to the previous one, then there's no contest. Really much bigger build platform so you can build bigger uh items. I'm not sure about the height, um, the Height's probably similar. so I'm not sure if you can build higher items, but you can certainly build larger footprint ones so that's awesome.
And uh I assume that the dual head one you would have to buy like a separate um, you would have to get an extra head here. so if you wanted to retrofit, actually, if you wanted to retrofit the second head on here, they don't give you the second uh platform to uh, mount it on. they only give you the one so you'd have to take all this apart. um I'm not sure if they got instructions for um for like if you buy a single one, then you decide if you want the duel one Whether or not you, uh, you know, cuz you'd have to take these rods out at least.
Um, actually, it's probably not a big deal, you'd have to. Yeah, anyway. um, you would still need to. uh, do that now I Do like the mechanisms they they used in here. they look really good. They they look the business. They look like they're going to do the job. They look, uh, precise and uh, you know the clamp mechanisms on top for the belts.
There look really quite good. They've got that spring in there to take up. Now that's probably a novel. Innovation Somebody was uh, thinking there to take up the tension in the belts that they would I presume that's what it's for I'm no mechanic teal engineer, but I think they've done that.
Put that spring in there so it automatically takes up the tension and I think that's probably smart so you should get consistent. uh, they've got it. Got the same thing over there as well. You should get consistent tension on those belts I would presume, so that's rather clever.
I like it. and uh, if we take a look down here at the LCD I probably should power the power the on, but they've got this nice looking uh, you know it's got the makot symbol in there. a little rubber uh, membrane control panel that'll be the four cursor Keys You can hardly see them on there Actually, they they should be a different color. They should do those arrows in white.
So it's obvious that, uh, you know that they are actually arrows. Otherwise, you know if you've got to really look close and get the right angle to see the little arrows. Not sure if you can see that on camera, but there are little black arrows molded into that rubber. but jeez, not easy to see that's for sure.
And it's got apparently a 4 line by Uh 20 display. uh, just like on the old uh uh thing Matic um external box here. so I I think it's uh, they've probably up upgraded the firmware. It probably gives you some more stats and things like that, but uh, I'm kind of liking this.
It really looks, uh, really looks quite Jazzy to begin with. so it's uh, hope it performs as well as it looks all right. I'm up to step number five which is to raise the build platform, then get this cable which has this plastic hook in there and plug that into place in should snap into place like that and hold it, hold it down presumably. uh, yeah, that that looks the business to me.
Done next and we're up to step step number six. Secure the step STW to Mark 8 onto the mount and this is, basically, um, all the parts you get. There's a couple of uh, four different uh, types of five different types of Allen Keys You get in here and uh, there's not many screws at all. There's just a couple of screws, so we only mounting the step stter.
Maybe we got to do something else with these, but uh, yeah, certainly streets ahead and building the thing. Matic Let me tell you, if you haven't seen my uh thing Matic uh assembly by the way, I'll link here and uh, click here and uh, you can see the time lapse assembly of the thing attic now. Step number six I've got to screw my step Struder Mark 8 down into there Now a trap for young players I Immediately saw the two screw holes are here which Mount into this plate down the bottom. but look, what's in the way? The thermocouple. If you just sat that in there, you might have, uh, squeezed your thermocouple wire, pinched it and and uh, accidentally did that and accidentally, uh, bugged your thermac couple wire there. So you need to make sure that thermac couple wires out of the way. and uh, then there's there's the heater wire of course coming in there, the heater element and the thermocouple is attached to the side identical to the thinger. Matic I Believe: Heat sink on the back fan fan facing forward, sit in the little cradle there and uh, make sure that therm cou of wire is out of the way and get under here and screw it in place and you'll see how we've gotten that thermocouple wire out of the way there.
But uh, apart from that, that's the only thing you have to watch out for. And it sits in that cradle. Uh, really, quite nicely. I Rather like it.
It's uh, much better than the metal plate they used on the Thing Attic. You know. it was really quite crude and, uh, unprofessional. Really? You know that's not sort of a commercial type product still on there, but uh, it's a bit more professionally done and you don't really notice it as much cuz it's all under there and it really does look the business now.
I Think we're ready, almost ready to print. There might be a couple more things to screw in. Oh better. follow the guide and looks like we install these rubber feet on the bottom.
Well, I'm doing exactly as per the instructions I'm putting these rubber things onto the side panel and they just immediately. Even if you squeeze them together, they immediately just fall off. What? You got to be kidding me? What's going on here? That's that's an epic fail. Not going to bother.
and I'm sure you're interested in. uh, seeing the back? Of course you are. Uh yeah, it's all sort of. That cable nicely slides through there like that, so there's a a bit of slack in there which goes over to the uh step Struder and uh so, but it's you know it's not tied enough.
you can push it down. It's really quite neat. well managed. I Like it.
Uh, now we've got to put our spool holder in. the second one goes here. you can just punch that out. not sure what uh, that one is there and uh down the bottom here.
hey hey, look what we have here. Serial number 10,602 the winner I'll tell you Brooklyn hey there viously proud it's made in? Brooklyn Why not? But why didn't we see that on the big box on the outside made in Brooklyn in a new sorry I don't have a New York New York Brooklyn accent. but yeah, be proud of it. uh what's that interface there I'm not sure what that is.
um uh. power switch I'm not sure where the oh, that's right, it's not 240 volts I that's the plug pack that. that's what was in the Box over here we got a plug pack um and USB cable. The problem with this: SD card this slot on the side. look, there's no labeling here or on the front I'd Expect, you know SD Card: stick it in there I mean you know it's just small things like that. but yeah, what they've done with this board, it's got a make Aot Industries uh silk screen logo down in there is they they've custom designed it I wonder who's actually uh done that? I I Don't know, may you know? I Think they might have teamed up with an LCD uh, manufacturer to do them like a custom board or something like that. Anyway, Um, because they've got the blobbed chips on the back on there. There they are and uh, well, you know they've integrated the LCD screen with that.
Um I guess they had the volumes to do that. I I probably. Uh, personally wouldn't have uh, bothered with the hassle. Uh, maybe I would have just done my own custom board and then had a little ribbon cable going over to a Bog standard uh, 40 By2 LCD but that's just me.
They've probably done the uh uh, math on that. They've done the economics, and, uh, they've decided to go for the fully custom board. anyway. it is neat.
I Really like it. Um, there's no, you know. The wiring in this thing in general is really quite neat. Let's take a look at it.
like coming from the coming from the stepper motor here. you know it's all cable tied in place. They've got the cable. look.
They got a cable guide there looks like where the cable runs through. That's really quite, really quite nice. and it's really managed on the step strew to head over there and then going down inside the case like that down down in the corner over there. So that's one thing I'm generally impressed with.
This thing is just it looks all clean. You know it's not the mess that was the thinger. Matic Look at the cabl sticking out the front and you know that is not a professional bit of. Kit they've obviously gone back to to the drawing board and they've gone right.
We need a professional looking product. We've got our 10 million bucks in Venture Capital funding now and uh, you know we we need to produce a professional quality product to compete with the uh Chinese ones that are coming out. It's still got that. You know that sort of that homemade look which you either love or you hate I don't know.
Um, you know you still get all the black stuff all over yourself from handling in it a little bit. but um, yeah, done a real good job. It's just nice and clean and looks like it's going to do the business. It instills a lot of confidence that uh, this is working so I'd be surprised if uh, this sucker doesn't work straight off the bat.
Uh, one thing I didn't get is an SD card. um I not that I can see I don't see anything in the packet. why not I want very make Aot Industries Customer support Just yeah right? I'll ring customer support. where's my SD card? Thank you very much. Um because really? um SD cards cost nothing and you should have a test. Uh, you know a test thing built into it. A test. You know a test print.
You know. pick a pick a print I don't care. but I wanted to stick that in turn the power on, feed my filament in and get a print. Now there's one thing I just noticed here I naturally just sort of grabbed in here and picked it up to spin it around and when you when you get your fingers in there you can actually Crush that bar there that's uh, holding that you know is is one of the bars which joins the belts at either end.
So really you could easily I can see they being. you know, significant damage there. so it would have been nice if maybe they covered that. Perhaps maybe that's asking a bit much I don't know, maybe you know I just shouldn't be that.
uh, hamfisted I guess but yeah I can just picture you know somebody doing that, picking it up by that or picking it up here and just crushing those rods. mate. or bending those rods perhaps. Anyway, a check this out.
the spool of white filament. look at the sexy makot branded spool. make aot Industries wank Factor There we go. All right and this is supposed to pull up through here and I knew I was doing something wrong here.
It told me the filament guide but the photo wasn't that clear. Found this down in the box with the power supply which is clearly our filament guide. so we got to feed our filament through here which then of course goes all the way over to here. and then that will go down into there like that.
Brilliant. and we need to snap that into place. No, doesn't like it. Some percussive maintenance required and I don't know whether or not it was intentional choice or whether or not it just done naturally flowed from the design.
but the spool holder of course is on the back like completely out of the way. You don't see it sort of. you know, magic happens, You press the button, magic happens, and stuff prints so you know. So the person you know just from just from a looks, uh, point of view it.
it just looks more professional to have that spool hidden away on the back like that. I like it and that did clip into there with just a bit more. Force you can see the thumb imprint there from it anyway. Um yeah, that's rather neat.
So we now have the plastic guide which uh, goes over to here and it all looks quite nice. You can't see the filament. Beautiful. I really really starting to like that and the spool.
even if it moves all the way forward, it's still got very good slack in that. By the way, it's excellent. So I think this is going to work. Going to work work a treat? All right folks, what's wrong with this picture? I Live in Australia not Austria and not the US So that's a US plug? No good and this is one big ass power supply that comes with this thing. and here we go. It's a uh, it's a meanwell, they mean well, meanwell are actually a reputable uh brand so don't actually laugh at that uh bit of Chinglish there. Um, it's Gs22 A24. Um, and it's uh Universal voltage of course and output 24 volts at 9.2 amps.
So 220 Watts What a beast. But of course this thing has uh, heaters and steeper Motors to drive. but uh yeah, they've gone for this instead of the old uh PC power supply I'm I'm wondering what they get these for in in comparison to a PC power supply, whether or not it's a slightly custom uh for makot. who knows? It might have been off the shelf one, but certainly is a beast that's for sure.
Now there's one thing with these power supplies which I'm going to have a winge about. The whole idea of this make you know it even says on the page or something, take it over to your friend's place and print and everything. Well, you pack the load the thing in the car, you get there to your M's place, you want to print something out. You've got pizza boxes there and just going to watch this thing go for its life and you forgot your bloody power supply.
What do you do? What? No one's going to have one of these sitting around are they? That's where your I power cable comes in. Would have been much better to just see the IC power cable straight into there. So yeah? I don't know? Eh, All right. time to switch this sucker on.
Woohoo! Welcome! I'm the replicator. Press the red M to get started. Woohoo wa look at that. It lights up beautiful.
Lights up blue. Is it blue? Kind of. Yeah. And hey, isn't that sexy? The blinking M Here we go.
let's take a look at this. A blinking M means I'm waiting and will continue. When you press the button, let's press the button. Tada Oh jeez, it's almost touch sensitive.
A solid M means I'm working and will update my status when I'm finished. Huh? That doesn't quite. I I Don't know. Is that back to front I don't know I Thought maybe blinking would mean it's doing something rather than uh, waiting.
Anyway I don't know. Go figure. Our next steps will get me set up to print first. We'll restore my build platform so it's nice and level it's probably a bit off from Shipping Yeah, well, you know Came all the way from Brooklyn Find the four knobs on the bottom of the platform and tighten four or five turns knobs on the bottom of the platform.
Well, it doesn't show this in the guide. So the bottom of the build platform and sure enough, there are some knobs under here. tighten four or five turns until it's it. doesn't tell you whether or not I just do fingertight.
I Guess yeah, that's fingertight. Ah man, that one's already tight. So yeah. and and actually, you can see the springs in there.
That's what the? That's what it's doing. What's next? So Exciting In each position, we will need to adjust two knobs at the same. Huh? Just two knobs at the same time? What Nozzles are at the right height when you can slide a sheet of paper. Oh, the Noz right? The nozzle? Okay. between the nozzle and the platform. Okay. Grab a sheet of paper to assist us. Okay, all right.
Oh, here we go. It's moving. It's moving. see? It hasn't told me to as this hasn't sort of shown me to install the filament yet.
So I haven't actually done that. Haven't actually done that yet. So right. adjust the two front knobs until paper just slides between nozzle and just the two front knobs.
Okay, so let's put a bit of paper under there. Oh, okay, so you release them. Okay, got it. So that's what the Springs are for.
Not that's so loose. now it is. I've still got a massive Gap in between that head. Actually, that head is off the platform I think I think it's slightly off.
Whoops! And it is indeed just off the platform. So I'm going to have to dispense with the paper and just tweak this thing by ey. So I'm holding my tongue at the right angle. Trust me.
And uh. I reckon that is a paper thickness? Yeah, that's about two bees Dicks. Perfect. Okay, now it's moved to the back of the platform and I've got to adjust these two screws on the bottom for the back of the platform.
Oh wow I done these up fingertight. That was the mistake. So once again, this one is on the platform. So I could do the paper thing now.
So I get the paper under there. There we go. That's good enough. Good enough for Australia.
Well I got to admit, I'm a bit disappointed in having to tweak that. Please wait. Okay, who we're doing something. Oh now what have I got to do? Adjust the right two knobs until paper just slides.
But oh, we got to do it in all four positions. Are you kidding me? Oh man. All right. Well jeez.
I wonder if you have to do this for the commercial ones? What a what a pain tongue at the right angle Paper: Oh yeah, good enough. let's press the button. it's going across, but that upsets the uh, the other two. So I'm not quite sure what you know.
it's sort of like they all interact. It's an interactive adjustment process. So H to tweak it I Man, please wait here we go. and Center what does it say? Check that paper just slides between nozle and platform in the center and and it does.
Beautiful. All right. All right here we go. Up: button my height is good.
Ah, that feels much better. Let's go on and load some plastic. Woohoo! You bet. Press down on the gray ring at top of the extruder and pull the Black guide tube out.
Now feed filament from the back through the tube until it pops out in front. I'm heating up my extruder so we can load the filament. Woo! This might take a few minutes and watch. Shout! the nozzle will get hot all in uppercase.
Don't shout oh hey, it's changed color. Oh it's got multiple colors in the Uh inside. Looks like we got RGB leads. Here we go: I Didn't show you this A because I just didn't realize they've got an LED strip along the front here and it looks like it's an RGB uh type because it's changed color and now it's lighting up red. A impressive wank factor I Love it. Now it says okay I'm ready. Pop the guide tube off and push the filament down. Yeah! I Can feel it grab in the filament and it should start oozing out the bottom.
Definitely pulling it through so it should start to, uh, ooze out of there very shortly. There we go. A look at that. a lovely ooze.
brilliant. wonder how long it goes for it's doing a spiral I Love it. Beautiful. I wonder if that it looks like it's spiraling uh, counterclockwise.
That's because we're down here in Australia So if you're in the Uh Northern Hemisphere up there for you Yanks Um, it would, uh, spiral clockwise. Are we ready to try a print? Yes, Oh, does it have a a print built in? That would be nice if it actually had a print built in and you didn't even need the SD card. but I think I'm expecting a bit too much there, but hey, let's try it. I'm going to press Okay, we'll go to the SD card menu and you can select a print.
well I can't cuz there's no SD card in the thing presumably. um, someone at the bot cave forgot to include it. Um, unless it's tucked away in a secret area in the Box I don't know. Um, go figure.
It looks like I'm going to have to go fire up the program and, uh, generate a file to print. Bummer and look. they gave me a spare spool holder. Fantastic Ftic.
But you want to know what the interesting thing is. it's not 3D printed, what it is injection molded. they obviously, uh, churn these out by the millions I Don't blame them of course, because you know when you have to mass-produce things, you're not going to do it on a 3D printer. But still, you know I Just found it funny.
Sorry. look at this. My make Aot experience is ruined yet again because this bloody replicator G software that I try I installed the new version I it told me I needed Python. so I installed the latest Python and now it gives me this rubbish that the to generate the gcode requires TK inter to be installed.
What the frig! And then it takes me to the download the Python download page I've already been there I've already installed Python. It's just H Give me a break to generate the gcode to print out my little microcurrent adapter. Here it's case for the microcurrent. it's just it ruins the whole experience.
It really does all right. I Finally got the stupid thing working after a couple of random, uh, uninstall reinstall cycles and here we go: I've generated uh, the file um Sav onto an SD card for my microcurrent case which uh Charles at Maabot design. So let's try and print it. So here we go: print from SD card microscope adapter, dot dot dot, let's go down and on I've and microcurrent with raft or no raft to Raft or not to Raft That is the question I'm going to go no raft I'm going to see what it can do cuz I hate the raft. Um, so if we can do it without the raft oh SD card read error ooh hello, that's no good What's going on? This is the SD card which came with my previous MakerBot by the way came with my uh thinger Matic microcurrent with no Rra. Here we go. Woohoo! It's changing color. It'll have to heat up.
it'll uh oh, hang on I better clean off the so there you go. It's heating. um, heating heating heating. So it's H set to 110 and presumably the head is like uh, the standard 220 which it needs or whatever.
And these test pieces that came with my unit were presumably printed on this uh thing itself. my this actual replicator but it uses the raft there on the bottom and uh, but the alignment uh looks pretty good. Of course a bit of bodess down in there. Not sure what's going on there, but uh, it looks so hopefully it should print.
um reasonably. Why? actually I'm able to peel the raft off that one. That's not too bad. I Able to peel? yeah, raft comes easily off that one.
so uh, I don't know, but my old uh make aot thing aaic uh, the raft was horrible. You just couldn't peel it off at all. Anyway, see what this one does? and there is a fair bit of fan noise as well. And it's not the uh uh, fan of the uh extruder up here.
so it's um, and I don't see fan holes in the back of it. maybe on the uh bottom, but you can definitely hear it if we have a quick look under here. Yeah, there's got to be a fan under there somewhere cooling down the electronics. We'll make that a separate video.
We'll uh, take that off and we'll uh, get the have a look at the circuitry. Oh, something's happening. something's happening. Hang on here we go.
I Think it might be starting heating? No, it's still heat. No There we go. The Now: the extruder got a heat up to 220. that was just the platform.
so it's actually taking quite some time from cold. I didn't time that, but you know that's got to be 3 or 4 minutes or something like that just to heat up the build platform and the extruder is going to be quicker. Uh, cuz there's less thermal Mass there to heat up. But yeah, does take some time for first print from cold that's for sure.
And here we go. it's reaching temperature and it's ready. Oh hang on No, this is with no R so this could be a big fail right at the GetGo But we'll uh, we'll give it a go. No, we got to fail straight away here.
No, we definitely need that raft. so I'll stop that and restart it with the raft version now. I've gone into jog mode here and I can't find a way to jog The Zed Axis to get the build platform back down. so I'm not sure what's well.
yeah, let's try home axes. No, hey, no bad idea, but at least I can access my print Now There we go. That's all right. All right, here it goes. We're printing the one with the raft now, so hopefully I've never had any problems with the raft um, it on the uh thinger Matic It always worked pretty well so I'm hoping it'll work really well with this as well. It's just a a it's a waste of material and B you got to peel it off the bottom and then it's not flat so you know, um with these maker Bots uh well I'm assuming with this one as well, you don't get that greater uh uh bottom on the thing so of your object. so if your um bottom surface is important, um I'd probably like flip it over and do it as the top or something like that if you can. but uh, it's not going to be as smooth as anything.
but yeah, we got a little daggy bit on the end there, but it is laying down the raft okay and it seems to be sticking just fine. um I forgot to clean the Capon Of course it doesn't tell you. somebody recommended that you clean the uh Capon uh surface first or something so it adheres better. but uh anyway.
I don't think we're going to have any issues and uh, once this uh raft is done, it'll print. I'm going to take a couple of hours so I'm going to head home and uh, leave this thing to its own devices. So I hope it doesn't, uh, start replicating itself I've seen Stargate those pesky bastards and the interesting thing is, if you really get in there and look at that, you can see the little curls of I don't remember that being on the thinger. Matic Um, it didn't have that sort of curly nature to the raft.
It was like a flat. It was a flatter. Uh, it was really quite. uh, quite smooth.
The bottom of the raft there, but this one seems to be seems to be really curled up. It's quite weird. I just used all the default settings by the way, on the uh, uh on the uh software program to generate this. So anyway, if it doesn't work with the defaults, then, well, it's a fail.
You can really see that from the top here. It really is quite remarkable. Maybe it's a new type of uh raft or something which they're going for there, but it's rather unusual. Ah, no.
look, this is interesting. Up this end, the back end of the build platform. It's all smooth. The raft is really beautifully smooth, but once it gets up here, it curls.
Look at that. That is really that's weird. Wonder what's going on there? Wonder if that's uh, intentional? I Don't think it's intentional I think it's it's maybe got something? I don't know. I I Don't think the software is capable of actually doing that.
So maybe it's some sort of physical process which is, uh, causing that raft to do that spiral. Weird. Like it like it's coming out, but it's not oozing and it's not sticking I'd say that's what's happening. It's not somehow not sticking down and uh, it's just peeling off and causing that uh, you know that uh, curly effect.
Anyway, um, hope it works fingers crossed and check it out. I'm not sure how long that actually took. um I've been away for like 3 hours and uh, but look at this. there's bit of uh, dodginess on the corner down here. It didn't uh, didn't work, it came off. but uh, apart from that, so that's a fail. Um, clearly here we go. The Ra's coming off pretty easily.
It's all about the base. If you get that good base to stick the good RA either a raft or get it to stick down without a raft, then uh, it prints the rest of it pretty much, uh, perfectly. I mean so I'm really quite happy with that, apart from of course the fail on the uh fail on the base. But really, if you look around at the at the edges, for example, they're they're actually really the.
The alignment is really quite nice and the walls in there look really good. I Mean they're really thin walls? Check. Check that out. I mean I Can you know I can really wiggle those internal walls there? and uh, you know, for such a thin wall like that, it's really done quite a remarkable job.
But as you can see, I mean you know to print these things as actual cases. The base is always going to be. you know, pretty horrible. Need some sanding down and stuff like that? It's all you know.
It's all very flexible. Check that out. But uh I I Love how it actually, uh, it really did quite well on that uh, micro current sort of popping up on the side there. It's really done quite a decent job of that and uh, obviously can do that cuz it moves it.
you know, half a millimeter out and then it doesn't. You know it's not far enough for the Uh for it to actually fall off to fall down. so you can actually get raised text like that I haven't seen that done before. But yeah, there you go and check out the beautifully thin walls in there.
that is. That's really quite impressive. actually. that's really quite nice.
So, and the base of it in there is not too bad I Guess So as a first print, um, that's I think that is an excellent result. You's got to get that base right? Brilliant. So there you go it. it pretty much, uh, worked out of the box.
Once you, um, you have to do that little uh, calibration, uh thing to tweak the uh, the base of it. but once you've done that, eh it. it pretty much worked I'm pretty happy with it. Uh, a lot less, um, effort than the uh thinger attic, but that's what you expect.
This is fully built up, fully calibrated at the Makot Factory, so you expect it to work. So there you go. I Hope you like that and I'm sure I'll be doing uh future videos using the MakerBot. If you want to discuss it, jump on over to the Evev blog forum and if you like the video, please give it a big thumbs up.
Catch you next time.
Thank god i never bought this old stuff
Well, I know this comes in after many years abut do you have a user manual for this ? Thank you ! 🙂
Hi, been nine years, might be time to investigate changes in the technology
You could mill that quicker out of a solid lump of material
Quicker to build the item by hand
Haha
Hi im getting two of these soon. Do you know if you can actually print at temperatures over 230C? I want o print petg with them and 230 is just a little on the cold side.
the spirals is from the nozzle being too high. it causes the filament thats coming out to be able to twist and curl, making that texture. totally not good.
Just get a Prusa3D and be done with it.
Today i would buy a prusa instead…
Those plywood printers is something special.
$4k printer and it still can't print straight out of the box!! maybe this is why they didn't put "MADE IN USA" on the box… guess i will be sticking with Chinese brands..
The rubber feet don't need to stay on when you lift it. You calibrate it and don't touch it after anyway. Or if it's that important, just drip some rubber cement in there
And I thought (I) was a wingin Pom!!
If anyone's interested in seeing my very unique enclosure design for my CTC makerbot style printer. Just click on my logo as looking for response from other CTC owners
yeah so the bed level adjustment is a nightmare
I've always wanted these and I'm soon getting but otherwise good video
"Thats about two bee's dicks" about spit up my morning coffee. but i hate to say it at the end, the platform was not exactly two bee's dicks, hence the sqiggley the head was just a bit too high up…so that platform is a major thing to tweek..that makes me wanna steer clear.
can I use ninjaflex filament on this makerbot replicator
I think the raft is inconsistent due to the fact that you tilted the unit backward to check for the fan noise and it upset your calibration. My guess anyway.
I use the Rostock Max v2 with the E3D V6 extruder upgrade.
It doesn't say made in the usa because it won't always be made in the usa.