Is the Agilent meter alone in slow recovery from mains overloading on the ohms range? Let's find out...
Hi on the edent u1272a meter Review: I Just did I showed how if you put 240 volts Mains on the Ohms range that this thing while it would survive and that's good, it would take some time to recover uh, possibly many, many minutes to recover before it actually gave you an accurate reading again. And that's a standard test I do on all multimeters to see if the input protections any good, if it can survive 240 volts on the Ohms range. it's beautiful and this one did, but it just had that recovery time quite possibly due to a PTC input protection uh device heating up and taking some time to cool back down. And well, you know, fair enough.
Okay, but a few people said, well, that's going to happen on every multimeter or any multimeter. Well, is it I Think we should try it. Let's go. let's start out by revisiting the agilant.
There It Is I've got my 10K Precision resistor in here. It's spot on. 10K Now let's stick 240 volts in here. Just be very careful if you're going to do this test of course and what I'm going to do is I'm going to stick it in there and I'm going to leave that there for 10 seconds.
So let's give that a go. I'll do that on every multimeter 10 seconds and that's about 10. All right. take it back off and let's put it back on here and we'll find mind that it's Bingo it's not accurate anymore.
In fact, it's it's going up. It's going up and up, but that will eventually recover. and there it is. It reached a point and it's now headed back down.
So let's try another meter and see what happens. And here we have the Classic Fluke 87. This is the brand new model with the Uh GSM fix. It's measuring 10K there.
so let's give it a try. Shall we? Plug it in and it's going to tell us it's uh, beep there. Let's wait our 10 seconds just to if these things are hea. If a PTC is heating up or something like that, that's about 10 seconds and let's put it back and let's see what happens.
Hardly. Oh, there's a slight change. tiny, not nearly as large as the fluke. I'm going to give that a minute or so, see if it cools down and it only took a minute or so and it actually has.
But even when it did straight after the test jump up, that was still well within spec well under 05% so not a problem. Let's try the Gosen Metr hit extra meter. It's not too far off the nominal 10K there. Let's stick it in 240 Vols and 10 seconds it's a flashing there to presumably IND indicate that uh, it's not a happy little camper and that should just about do it and let's try it again.
Once again, that one has gone up a little bit, but it recovers very quickly and but not nearly as much. Again, not nearly as much as the Agilant does. There you go and another gosen Metr hit, but this time the Metr hit. Energy meter in we go and let's see, this one just reads zero Ohms which is different to the extra so that's our 10 seconds are up.
Oh, that was fairly significant. There you go, but it recovers very quickly. O It's Gone On the negative side, there you go. It is playing around a bit on the that's the first one that actually went negative. There you go. I'll have to see if that one comes good and it slowly, uh, recovered. but this one actually took uh, quite some time. so that's rather unusual.
But of course all these me they are designed to recover from these sorts of overloads. so they eventually will and they'll come back. Perfect. And we've got the winner of our $100 meter shootout.
BK Precision 279b So a totally different price class instrument to the ones we've looked at so far. But let's give it a go and this one's actually Switched Off There you go. So it wasn't a happy little camper, but let's leave the uh, let's leave it for 10 seconds and and that's about it. and we're going to have to probably switch that one off and on again.
Of course, it doesn't matter that it actually, uh, switches off as long as it physically survives. There you go. That one had no issue, didn't change a thing. Although because this is uh one, it's not a 4 and 1 half digit meter.
We can't see that, um, digit beyond that. But there you go. Maybe I should leave it on for like a minute or something and see what happens. All right.
I've left that one on for a minute, so that's a fairly long time. Let's switch it off and on again and it looks fine. Bang spot on this one's no problem at all, so even this cheapy really doesn't get affected by 240 volts on the ohms. It doesn't heat up or drift or do anything.
And I just so happened to have another Gossen meter the metrahit world. Once again, it's only 3 and 1/2 digit or 6 th000 count or something like that. It's not 4 and A2 digit. but let's try it out.
And again, it gives a reading around a couple hundred ohms there and that's about 10 seconds or so. Let's put that back. Yeah, there we go. That one's gone low.
There you go. That's rather unusual, but it's coming back. Here's that. I saw it.
Yep, it slowly climbs back up and I'm have absolutely no doubt it will eventually come back good and we'll get right down into the cheap $50 sub 50 category. Now the Xtech Ex 320. Let's give it a go and boom, it's not, uh, doing anything there and our time is just about up and let's put it back in and see what happens. Oh yeah, there we go.
That one really really overloaded there, but it eventually got to 10 and it's going lower, lower lower and it'll eventually settle straight back to 10. Now it's nasty time. We've got the V Vc99 Cheap. eBay crap.
let's uh, plug it in I'm pretty sure I did this test in the Uh shootout and it uh does survive so there's no problems doing that. but we'll try it here and see what we get. Six room and once again, that one's gone on the the low side. interestingly, but it will eventually come back good.
Now let's go back to the Fluke here for a second and I'm going to put it on 6000 count mode so it's spot on and I'm going to leave it there for a minute and see what happens, right? So that's been about a minute I believe and let's take it out and try it again. There you go. Look, it's barely changed. one least significant digit. You could almost strike that up to uh, to, you know, a rounding of the least significant digit. So really, in general, use the fluke really doesn't have it. barely has an issue there at all even after a minute. And check it out.
after all this time, I've gone through all those other meters must have been at least 10 minutes or something like that. It's still the Uh Agilant is still not back to normal. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to put it on for a minute. It's because that was reading spot on.
1K So let's put it on for a minute and see what happens and that's about a minute. So let's take that off and try it again. Yeah, see, that's very significantly out 10.2k So there you go. The agilant was a whopping, uh, like 2.3% out after well out of spec.
Well, well out of spec. Um, like, by an order of magnitude out of spec after a minute of 240 on the Ohms range. But the fluke 87 was still almost spot on to almost to the least significant digit. well within spec after a minute.
So there you go. The agilant. Not as good on overload recovery, and as you did see, it did happen on uh, quite a few of the other meters, but not all of them. so it's not an inherent trait in Uh meters by the looks of it.
although it does seem to be fairly common there you go, that's a rather interesting test, so hope you found that interesting and we catch you next time.
Apparently his 10 sec is 15 sec
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Wow 😳
Now do that with a DT830D cheap $2 chinese meter lol
Is any one of those meters good enough that while being overloaded it actually measures the resistance of the circuit they are being overloaded on ?
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I have my Fluke 87V and the Metrahit E-TRA (I have a lot of other gossen DMMs and some UNI-T ones)
can you try the flir multimeter ? its costlier than fluke
why you racist to voltmeters . all are almost same. who measure so much accuracy after using it on mains ?
Try this on a Brymen 869s or 257 or even your blue eevblog 235. I like brymen and these tests but cannot afford to do them myself so it is better watching you do it, lol
This test only proved that a humble chinese ddm below 50 dollars, performed much better than others North American brands costing hundreds of dollars
DANGER – 33,000 OHMS
No cheap screw is "the best" irrespective of were it's made. Dumbed down fool.
I would really enjoy a Fluke series test much like this one. as to see the engineering differance ' s. I have a Fluke 179 and I'm wondering if it has the same failsafe as the mighty 87v.
cheers.
Why did the Vichy 99 survive the ohms overload with 240vac? I was expecting it to blow like the Fluke video with 750vac ohms overload test on the Harbor Freight $5 dmm. What's the difference with that $5 meter? I expect those expensive dmms to survive, but for the Vichy to survive… there should be at least an explanation why it survived that test to bring it up from just boys having fun blowing things up and put some science into it.
Agilent is the worst of them, Agilent instrument are a complete garbage.
I use Fluke 87v, fluke 28II, Fluke 99II and I very happy with them.
When I got my first multimeter (back when I was about 9 yo), the first thing I did was to measure the mains voltage. Happy to see the nominal 127V, I decided to measure the mains current.
Yep, had to buy new tips the next day.
Never thought to measure the mains resistance though! 😉
Try to measure the mains frequency with the Vichy, that blew up mine! (Then I got the U1272A)
i'm not very experienced in electronics, but would this make a difference if you would switch the probes in the mains cable? Could the phase or neutral lead make a difference?
Incredible, how the fluke meter recovered. It would be interesting to see the differences in each meter teardown the applications used for input protection.
Aaa! You blew my mind! One device it cost as one my salary! You scared me!!!
So THAT'S why some multimeters cost several hundred dollars (and are not a rip off). I guess they really are super awesome quality.
I wonder what would happen if you used an even cheaper multimeter than the ebay one you used. One of those multimeters you can get for $5.
There are many meters which will measure the prospective fault current.
If you have good PPE, try it on one of those $10 Chinese meters.
The interface is for connecting it to a PC.
Gestaposen Naziwatt!
What does that infrared interface on multimeter does? or what is it for?
Let's poke it with a stick! (Suggestion for the title of this video)
@ncrdisabled Search for "Fluke GSM"