Hi, it's tear down time again. We've got another bit of Rhoden Schwartz Power Supply kit and we love looking at these things. I've had this one for quite a while. I was going to do a video when it was released back in April, but unfortunately, uh, things got in the way and we have seen the Nge 100.

uh, tear down before. I'll link that in up here if you haven't seen it. and it is a cute little, um, a smallish form factor triple output 33 watt per channel power supply. And this is part of their basic series power supplies, but they've released this new Nga 100 series.

It's not designed to replace this, it's designed to supplement it and it's a bit of a different beast. It's either comes in a single or a dual output. There's no triple uh output version of this now. it's advertised as a linear power supply.

Whether or not it's a linear output stage like this, with a switching tracking pre-regulator that remains to be seen, but it is significantly bigger. Check that out. it is much deeper. Um, for actually less output.

This is only uh, 40 watts per channel, so 80 watts total. So technically, this is a less total power output than this series up here, so it could be completely linear. There's a reason for the size in these suckers. Anyway, exactly the same look and feel form factor.

These actually fit in a 19 inch rack mount. So you can actually get a rack mount uh, kit to mount like two of them side by side in a 19 inch rack. So that's very nice. But uh, they do come with the um tilting bail feet on them and even though it's part of the basic Uh series supplies, here's where it fits into the overall scheme of things.

It's you know, got some pretty advanced stuff in terms of like low current measurement and resolution and accuracy. It's like 0.02 percent. It's absolutely crazy, and you'll get one micro amp current resolution out of this thing. So I'm really looking forward to powering this thing up.

and uh, having a play around with that. Anyway, we'll do that at the end, because you know what we say here on the Eev blog. Don't turn it on, take it apart. but it comes in two different models.

The one we're looking at this is the Nga 142. This is a two output zero to a hundred volts per channel. So this is rather, uh, novel. There's not many power supplies that'll do zero to a hundred volts and this will do 0 to 100 volts at 2 amps per channel.

And of course you can put them in series to do 0 to 200 volts at 2 amps so you can put them in parallel. Uh to do 0 to 100 volts at 4 amps. The other model, the Nge 102. that is the 35 volt supply and that'll do up to six amps.

And as you can see, they use the same Uh terminals that they used on the Nge series up here. I'm not a fan of these. They don't open very wide. if you have a look, uh there.

it's really difficult. There is a hole down through the thread in there you can get your wire. but I yeah, I, I really don't. I'm not a fan of these uh terminals.

Look, you can't open them very wide. There's the hole. Maybe you can see it down in there and I? I don't know. and they're red and blue.

That's that European, uh, rubbish color code. So I yeah, I don't know. I prefer red and black. Call me old-fashioned And thanks to Roden Schwartz, I actually have two of these to give away.

I've got one, one four two model the Zero to 100 volts and one 102 model the two channel zero to 35 volt model. So stick around for the end of the video for details on that giveaway. Everyone loves the giveaway. Now on the back, which we didn't get on the Uh Nge model, we've got the Uh sense inputs as well rear channel sense on the back.

That's really nice for doing uh, remote sensing on loads and stuff like that. So even though it's a basic series, um, they've added that. Fantastic! And then we've got digital Io trigger as well. Really great for production to automated production test systems, which I've done a lot of in my career.

Anyway, it's got the lens and the Usbs and there's a wi-fi option as well. Oh, look at the big bolt for the toroidal transformer. Oh, everyone's getting a bit moist now and interestingly, they've got the voltage selection on the bottom here. Good old-fashioned switches.

Nice. I like it. Warranty expires if broken, not one stuff given right? So let's get this bad boy open. And even though this is the basic series, uh, don't get excited that you're going to be able to get a Roden Schwartz power supply for a couple of hundred bucks? Um, this is still an advanced uh bit of kit.

and it's I think, um, price like retail? Uh, price is still like 1500 Yankee bucks or something. so it's not cheap. but Roden Schwartz don't make cheap bits of kit. That's why it's going to be really nice inside.

so can we lift this off? Whoa. we're in. Oh look at that. Beautiful.

Ah, very different. Very different to the Uh Nge series which was a real compact uh beast. Um, this one actually has a fair bit of space inside and obviously it looks like it's a full linear job because look at the size of these power supplies. whereas the Nge series are that was a linear output stage.

Here's a photo inside that with a little itty bitty tiny output. uh, heatsink on the Uh series, pass linear element on the output. but then it had a tracking pre-regulator which pre-regulates like just like a volt above the output or something like that so you don't need much output heat sinking. But yep.

sure enough, this bad boy looks completely linear. And that toroidal transformer. Oh, absolutely brilliant and uh. One complaint I had about the previous one is that uh, if you short out that bolt there, then of course you can get a shorted, uh, turn on the thing.

So with that, that's a trap for young players. So if that's actually too close to the top case, then you're going to come a gutsa. But this one, nah, that's that. Feels like it's now.

It's got a whole finger width in there, so no worries. Oh, you can see you're getting your money's worth inside this and all the output is a sleeve look at. Oh, it feels oh oh, that feel. it's not feeler vision Beautiful.

sleeving on that. and of course all the processing's on the front. We're not too fussed about the Uh processing. There is the wi-fi option I, but I think that's like I don't think it comes standard.

don't quote me. Um, but uh yeah, it might be like a software option, but uh, there it is. so I'm not too fast. There's an Atmel or something or other processor down in there for those playing along at home.

Not too fast, but uh yeah, that's the complete controller board down in there. Got the battery back up for the real time clock. It'll have really advanced Adc's on it because as I said, we're talking about 0.02 accuracy. We're talking about uh, one microamp current resolution on the 200 milliamp range.

So you know, as we'll see when we power this up. it's got lots of digits. um, and a feature for current measurements. So if you're a current measurement fan boy, this is a real It's going to be a really nice option for you for measuring like our low power devices.

And there's our output board down in there. Nip on chemicon. Of course, when you pay this sort of money for a power supply, even their basic series uses Nippon Chemicon caps. Absolutely very nice.

So we've only got 22 Microfarads output cap. Uh, plus I think there's i see some ceramic surface mount uh jobbies on the back there as well, but I won't, uh, take that out. But uh yeah. as with all lab power supplies, you want to minimize the amount of output capacitance because when you switch from constant current to constant voltage mode and vice versa.

you don't want the energy in these capacitors because this, these are after. They're the current regulation uh, circuitry. So you don't want a huge amount of output capacitance because then that can dump current into your load above your uh, current, your current setting. So yeah, um, so that's good.

22 mic plus, uh, whatever. You know, a 10 mic ceramic or something on the back or one mic or something like that. So nice. low output capacitance.

Very nice. and this supply has supposedly really fast start transients as well. So fantastic for all sorts of production testing. Check out those beasts.

Look at them. 6800 mica pop. 80 volts. Uh, Nichikons.

so they must 80 volts. It's got a 100 volt output, so I assume that they're in series are they let me just adjust the exposure here because those heat sinks, uh, really, like, can cause the camera to, uh, expose for the rest of it. So yeah. so we've got two banks of these.

Um, you might be wondering why we've got three heatsinks here when we've only got a two channel regulator. Well, one of them. if you have a look down, there is for the bridge rectifier. So yeah, just one alone for the bridge rectifier.

and we've got a fan on the back. Of course, the heatsinks are all finned correctly to get the airflow through here. so we've got the vents on the side at the front here, so the air is drawn in here and then goes over the fins of the heatsink and extracted out the back there. so not a particularly large fan.

It is, uh, temperature controlled because when you turn it on, it does go and then it eventually, uh, switches off and only if you do high loads will that come on. Nice attention to detail. With this little, uh heatsink down here, they've just got some. So well, that's actually.

oh, that's really hard. It's not really silastic. it's uh, something else. Anyway, they're rigidly mounting on those, so any vibration on the board won't cause these things to flap around in the breeze and vibrate, uh, loose and hit a resonant point and break off.

Very nice. It looks like the code name for this project is Stingray. It's the Stingray motherboard. There you go.

There's our mains input down there beautifully. Uh, crimped and uh, screwed down to the chassis there. and that, yes, that is an ethernet cable. Uh, going from the Ethernet port on the back through to the Ethernet connector on the front panel board.

I don't know what time 1600 means and this is has times 1601 so I'm not not sure what that's for Mueller Beulah. So our mains cable is, uh, heat shrunk like that and that goes over to. Here's our input down here. there's our common mode choke and our protection, and our X and Y class.

uh, filtering, so that's very nice. Can I get the rest of that out? And there's our main switch real clunk and main switch on the front. Nice. And I assume that this tap on the transformer here with this, uh, little power supply part that's probably, uh, just for powering uh, the front panel digital board, I'd say.

And there's our voltage selection main switches down on the bottom of the case. I like how this is just all one big single ball construction. Of course you've got to have the uh front panel separate because that's a totally different technology and it's isolated. And by totally different technology, I mean much higher layer count.

Everything else for the Bga packages and all the digital whatnots. Um, but this one down here. Just one big analog jobby. Now, I can't read this detail on the screen here, but that looks like, uh, most of the control stuff for one of the channels is duplicated on the other side, so we don't need to, uh, see the other side there.

So yeah, it looks like we've got two shunt resistors here. They look like a couple of uh, mosfets, are they? Yep. So they'd be doing your rain current, uh, range switching. and is that your Adc down there? Not entirely sure if we move over to here.

This is the input of course, coming from our transformer tap here. we've got some input surface mount fusing down there, but that's not designed for protecting your output. Of course that only pops in case of circuit failure. Now in terms of the output here, of course they're going to have the current sense there.

You can see the extra sense wire on so the main uh, drive and then the main and then sense Y coming back. For the positive and negative, they snake all the way along the back of the case over to a relay over here. so that relay there. that could be for uh, doing your uh series, uh, parallel stuff.

So I'd say that's the case there. And of course, that's right near our output. uh, sense connections as well. Not sure what's happening down in there.

hard to get the right light at the right angle to see a part number on that. Joby once again, can't read that part number from my camcorder screen, but something's going on there, which is interesting. Um, that's smack in the middle of the design so it's like shared both. But then we've got jumper settings there once again with the X designator, so not sure what's uh, what setting that's got.

Here's our bridge rectifier. There's actually another one next to it. It's hard to see in there, but it's a smaller one and that's duplicated on the other side as well. So this one heatsink handles.

uh, four bridge rectifiers. So one would be the main power bridge rectifier, another one would be a uh secondary one for powering something else. like the control stuff. And there is our main output mosfets with a nice looking temperature sensor on the heatsink there.

That's very schmick. of course. any decent power supply, especially in this sort of uh, price class even though it's a basic in quote marks uh model? Yep, uh, nice. Uh, this thing would be bulletproof.

So there you have it. That's a tear down inside this bad boy. and uh, very impressive Of course. Very high quality, uh construction, high quality components used, and and it'd be lots of uh, precision parts as well.

As I said, we're talking about 0.02 percent class accuracy with uh yeah, it'd have a really high resolution Adc in this thing and current, range switching, and stuff like that. Let's actually, uh, put this thing back together, power it up, and I'll show you the resolution on this, which is, uh, really, quite remarkable for like the bottom of the range instrument. Okay, so let's turn it on. And as with the Nge series, you turned on.

Don't know if you can, you can probably hear that, but trust me, that is really loud. I don't know why they have to default to like maximum turn on for the fan. It's really annoying. I know the process is not booted up yet, so the fan just defaults to, you know, 100 on, but if there was some way that they could fix that, that would be really nice anyway.

Oh oh, straight off the bat, everyone's soiling their pants. Look at the resolution on that current. We're talking six digit resolution. This is incredible.

That's 10 micro amps there on, like the full two amp range. So let's change the current here. And sure enough, oh no, no. Okay, so the set current? We can only go to one milliamp.

yeah, I believe I read that in the manual somewhere. That's all right. But uh, the read back current I assume unless these are two digits on the end are fake, Then yeah, we should be able to read 10 microns resolution on the 2 amp range. That'd be incredible.

That's amazing. Dynamic range. You know, if you're developing like a Wi-fi product or something like that, you can like just keep it on the two amp measurement range and measure. You know, like an amp.

when it's transmitted, you know you've got some high powered product, uh, doing something like uh, transmitting a decent amount of Rf or whatnot, and then you, uh, and then when it goes to sleep, um, or just you know, background idle or whatever and it's drawing. You know, 100 microamps or something. You can still get decent resolution on that. Nice yeah.

So the minimum we can go there for our constant current mode is one milliamp. but of course that's like plenty. So let's just, uh, switch that output on right? So we set it to 20 volts with it. Well, look, we can.

I can show you that, uh, it can actually go much higher than that. There you go. 100.0 volts maximum. Not too many power supplies on the market can do, uh, you know, zero to 100 volts.

As I said, uh, this is the 142 model. The 102 model actually has 35 volts maximum output. I believe. You know your more traditional, uh voltage range power supply, but with that, of course you get extra current.

You get six amps instead of two amps maximum so the key layouts all the same. The operation is the same as the previous one except of course the display is uh, significantly different to the previous one. As you can see, the display is uh, significantly different. This new Nga one actually has a lot more information.

It's got your P min and P max here and of course your V min and V max. and of course it's only uh, dual output and that's why I guess it can display more, but this one could have uh displayed the same sort of info. So I they do have a new like they've got a B model of this or something I believe. Now I'm not sure what the differences are but yeah because this one's been out for uh, quite some time.

But yeah, um that is a nice uh display. not as big. I guess it would be uh nice if it had like options to like, make the display a bit bigger or something like that. Like the font's a bit bigger and maybe if you didn't need this other stuff you could have like a bigger display like up here or something like that.

But as I said this has got more digits more goodness. But look at the resolution difference. I mean this is only like three digits for the voltage, Uh, four digits resolution for the current. This is uh, six digits for the voltage and um, six digits for the current.

And you know, no contest. But of course, there's a reason why both of these are models exist like this one. It might be more suitable for some tasks, and this one's more suitable for other tasks. So it's not like this one is just better in every respect than this one.

Here, It's um, you know. Pros and cons: Go and read the data sheet for yourself. I mean, this is triple output for starters, smaller form factor. You know it's significantly different.

So let's switch on our output here and see if we do get the extra two digits measurement resolution there. So let's see if we go down to 10 micrograms and we do. Yep, Yep, that's incremented by single digits there. Like, So we're down in the noise like.

and so it's You know, even though we've got no load on this thing, can we actually, uh, zero that out? I'm not. I'm not sure if they have the ability to do that. That'd be nice, wouldn't it? Um, given that you know they advertise the capability of this thing to measure like down to one microamps. So apparently there is a 200 milliamp range we can switch to and we get an extra digit yet again.

Now this is interesting though. Like it's given us like V min 16.5 volts here. So is that like what it's actually measured? Minimum like that doesn't seem to. Is that changing? No 16.5 volts minimum? um, that doesn't make sense and 3.77 watts maximum.

I've got this set to 100 milliamps. It would have been nice to put the display here and show what our current uh limit is with. you know, I've set that. There it is there.

I set it to a hundred milliamps current limit, but they don't actually uh, display that which with all the information on the screen like why not? Yeah, I don't get this at all. Look, I've been playing around with this and uh, look, it's I've got no load on here and it's showing me like P max equals 0.36 watts. Where did it get that from? And as you saw before, it was like 16 volts from 100 volts. What was it measuring that minimum when it was ramping down when I actually switched the output off like that? On and off.

If I just I don't know, keep doing that a number of times, will it? Is it like glitching or something? Or you know, taking the measurement at the inappropriate time when it's but how it does that for like current and I don't know like I maximum like 21 milliamps or where is it drawing 21 milliamps? I've got no load. Don't get it. So anyway, yeah, these are V-min V-max These are operating like your digital multimeter min max mode or Np min max as well. So it's like historical data to show you, but I can't I had a look at the menu and I can't see where it like it doesn't.

It just mentions this. It doesn't tell you where to reset it or anything like that. I mean you know you go into menu and it's like, well, where do you reset that? I don't I don't get it. So yeah, that's that's strange.

I don't like. They've got all this min max information here. Let there should be like a min max enable button on the front panel. Um, really? I mean electronic fuse button like? you know that's You can argue that should be like buried away in the menu or remote.

Well, remote local. That's okay. A log button of course. And yes, we do actually have, uh, the Usb login, but got no stick if we plug in a sticky doodah.

Is it going to, uh, just automatically log that? And it does. Uh, 10 readings per second detecting Usb. Oh come on. what? I finally got a Usb stick that works.

Supports Fat32 only. But uh, yeah, there we go. Logging started. so presumably like logs, all the voltage and current and everything else.

I'll overlay what I've got here anyway. So even though I've got no load, but it should get, something, should lock voltage and current for both the channels continuously at 10 times per second. So that's really nice. Anyway, let's go into our menu here and have a look yeah, similar sort of thing output.

uh, Protection Fuse Easy up, easy ramp. There's some features for um, doing programmability current range There it is current range so yeah, it's not automatic. We have to go in there and select that current range. Ah, there you go.

Current measure You set it separately for each channel. So let's go low there and boom and get out of that boom look at that one micro amp resolution. Thank you very much. And once again, we're just seeing the uh like the current noise floor here basically and rippln noise here over 20 megahertz bandwidth.

We're only talking like 150 micro volts rms. This is uh, no load at 10 volts. It's spec for the 142 is less than 1.5 millivolts so it's like an order of magnitude under that. with uh, no load.

the 102 models actually are 500 micro volts. ripple and noise Rms and ripple and noise at 3.3 volts at 1.5 amps. I had to set my current range to auto. uh, like the current resolution? Uh, there to auto you can actually set it and uh, it jumps up otherwise.

um, but yeah, you can come a gutsy anyway. at 5 watts there, I've only got like a little in load on it. Uh, 12 millivolts, peak to peak. but uh, still well under spec at uh, 750 microvolts.

Anyway, this is not a review I'm not going to, uh, go to town actually. uh. reviewing the performance specifications on this thing. I'm sure it meets every single one of them.

It's a Rodent Schwartz. Okay, let's single shot capture this into a 2 ohm load. So 3.3 volts into a 2 ohm load with 2 amp current limit. We'll just switch that on and Boom! That ramped up nicely.

You can see it doing some. Yeah, it looks like is it doing some hunting in there? But as always, we're looking for overshoots there and there aren't any. So yep, that is clean. Although it's almost as if that is a deliberate ramp on.

I wonder if there's like, um, that's part of the no? That wouldn't be part of the easy ramp thing, would it? No, no, it's turned off. Anyway, that's only like two milliseconds there. So yeah, no worries, it doesn't overshoot. That's the main thing.

All right. So what I'm going to do now is just test the uh, transient with our current constant current. So I've lowered it to one amp here. So how quickly will it go into constant current mode? Will it detect that there's an over current and will it go in? So let's yep.

Let's set that up and Boom. There you go. That's interesting. So there you go, You can see it ramp up like it did before it went to its 3.3 volts.

So it went to the output voltage. And then it took Five milliseconds. It took like eight milliseconds or something. Seven eight milliseconds to realize that uh oh, I need to go into constant current mode so it's over vaulted on that and there's a little that's interesting little blip in there before it realized no, I need to go into constant current, thank you very much.

So, is that a problem? Well, potentially and you know it depends on your application. So um, okay. for comparison, let's see how this new Keysight Edu uh, triple output power supply does under exactly the same circumstances: 3.3 volts with one amp current limit into my Uh 2 amp resistive load here. So let's give that a burl and switch it on.

I've got exactly the same time base as before. I don't think I've touched that. Load the trigger level down here, and there you go. That is significantly different, but that one doesn't overshoot in terms of voltage, does it? So once again, it's got an interesting characteristic response here that just so happens to be near the uh.

that's just a coincidence that it's near my Uh trigger level here. Of course, if I increase my trigger level up above that, we can do that again. There you go. Um, so yeah, that's got an interesting response there.

but this one doesn't over volt. So yeah, it's got a bloop bloop. Yeah, so the Roden Schwartz one is not that good in terms of uh, its constant current at switch On capabilities. So I'm wondering if they can.

You know, tweak that in software or something, because yeah, that's a potential issue you don't want? Uh, your? technically because because you're over voltage in there, you are also over current in because it's simple Ohm's law voting. you know, 3.3 Volts India, 2 Ohms is above your 2 amp, your 1 amp uh, current limit of course. So yeah, so you're over are over current in here, whereas the keysight one won't do that. And I'm sure if we measure a whole bunch of lab power supplies, they're all going to operate.

They're all going to have their own, uh, characteristic response for something like that. But yeah, um, that's a bit disappointing that that overshoots it may enter. And let me try the Nge series and see what happens on that. There you go.

3.3 volts one amp. Let's give it a bowl. See what we get? There's our previous keysight, one and single shot capture that I've gone back to. five milliseconds per division.

Oh, there you go. Once again, see significantly different response. Five milliseconds are per division, so it takes much longer and it has a different kind of there. Once again, there, it's ramping up.

there is some overshoot and it eventually comes back. Let's just run that again and I've got Positive Edge triggered so I can just switch it off and on. There you go. Once again, it's overshooting like that.

So yeah, both of these uh, Ronin Schwartz supplies have a problem with constant current overshooting. No, no problems at all with, uh, constant voltage. Uh, of course, when you switch that on, it's uh, just hunky-dory But yeah, that's something that they might want to look into. so I don't know if this would be a real-time software response loop doing that, or whether or not it's a, uh, you know, an analog, uh, loop in the supplier.

But anyway, I hope they can fix that, because that's uh. that's certainly something to consider, because technically that is over current in not by much. But yeah, both of them do Just do that. Interesting.

Now, check this out. What I'm going to do is, I'm going to actually change this to 20 volts. It's just mucking around with it. And I discovered this: Okay, I've got the same one amp current limit, so you'd expect it to have the same result.

We've seen some overshoot already in voltage, but uh, on the 20 volt range. Um, this didn't happen on. uh, like the lower voltage ranges, but 20 volts. Nothing else has changed.

Okay, watch this Tada. look at that. It ramps up and at four like it, it goes up right. We're 10 milliseconds per division.

so after like six, seven milliseconds or something, it determines. oh, I need to current limit, right? So it's it's headed all the way to its, uh, 20 volts and uh, then it's come back down. and it's it's sort of, you know, clipped it at four volts there and then it goes all right. Like for another, uh, you know, 10 milliseconds, 11 milliseconds, Then it goes oops, Nope.

I'm still over voltage. I need to, um, like current that down to limit the current. So that's interesting. But if we do that it, I'll go back to Uh.

3.3 Okay, so I'm back at 3.3 Let's single shot capture that again. and boom, we got it. Uh, once again, it's it's clamped like that, but at a different voltage again now. so that's interesting.

and if I go to 10 volts, let's try that again. Single shot capture output and the eye. We can see. it's sort of starting to do the thing there, but it then goes back down aggressively so that that really depends on the uh voltage range that we're actually got there.

And another interesting thing. Check. Check this out right for going to voltage and I'm twiddling this. I'm still in constant current mode, but you'll actually see this go green.

Well, you see, it goes green like that and it. I'm not sure what the deal is there. So is it jumping out of constant current mode? Um, maybe we need like a live Uh display. Okay, so I've got it in roll mode now and we're in current limit down here.

so let's see what happens if we change this voltage again. I just want to see if it jumps out of constant current mode. Oh yeah, look look at that. Look at that.

It's jumping out of constant current mode. That's interesting, isn't it? Wow. We should be able to single shot capture that. Actually, let me get out of roll mode.

All right. So let's see if we can capture this. I've got uh, 10 millisecond milliseconds per division. Okay, I'll go into oh, adjust the voltage while we're in constant current mode.

Remember that and you watch it. It's going to jump. We saw those little spikes. Now we'll zoom in and we'll capture those spikes.

can. Oh no. It just went out there. there.

We go. Bingo. Captured it. It lasts for like, you know, 12 milliseconds or something like that.

And it's jumped out of constant current mode. When we adjust the voltage, that's very interesting. Why is it doing that? Oh, it's not a consistent time that's a bit nasty, isn't it? Wow, Yeah, Like you shouldn't. It shouldn't jump out of constant current mode when you adjust the voltage like that.

I think we have a glitch. Anyway, this isn't going to be a review. There's going to be like. this has a whole stuff.

A whole bunch of stuff. As I said, it's got the arbitrary waveform stuff. It does the easy ramp which is, I think I've had a look at that in, uh, previous videos on the previous model, haven't I? But uh yeah. of course you can turn on remote sense in here.

Channel Fusion: I assume that's parallel in series because that's hilarious. Channel Fusion Connection Mode: Yeah, that'll be series parallel surely. huh? Can we Can We? Oh yeah, yeah there yeah. Series Parallel Channel Fusion: I love it.

Germans. I'm sure if you want to look into this, there's a whole bunch of stuff that you can play around with. Ethernet, the wireless lens, the digital I O, and stuff like that. what can we do with our digital I o uh.

it's just trigger I believe. I don't think it's uh uh. output Eye condition Output on. See there you go.

So when it's uh, receives a digital input trigger on channel one or whatever you can, you know, make it do stuff. you can make it. Uh, I don't know. can you condition like that? Let's have a look.

What options do we have? Output on? Output off fuse? Trip There you go. Constant Current Mode Voltage level. There you go. It's a critical event.

Easy up active so you can turn on your arbitrary mode. I was hoping it would do that, so yeah, that's that's. pretty flexible stuff. Utilities, System Test Update Service All that sort of jazz.

Anyway, there you go. That is very cool, that's I like the current resolution on this thing. Um, absolutely amazing. I can't remember the specs on the current.

Hang on. It's actually uh, 0.03 percent of the current, which sounds impressive, but it's got a little, uh, plus 500 microamps next to it. So the uh, low current stuff. Absolute accuracy.

You get the resolution uh, of course, which is down to one micrograms accuracy. not necessarily there, but still. To get that sort of resolution on a uh, you know, basic series power supply like this is really quite incredible. So zero to 100 Uh volts are very versatile.

Go up to 200 volts in series with, uh, that sort of current resolution. Very versatile supply. Or you can get the Uh 102 version, which is the zero. You know, your more traditional 35 volt model.

Anyway, if you want me to do any specific Uh tests on this, I can and just dump it on my Eevblog2 channel about to hit a hundred thousand subscribers on there. So definitely go check out and subscribe to Eev blog too and set the bell notification. All that sort of wanky business. And as I said, I've got uh, two of these bad boys to give away.

One is the 104 model you see here. the 100 volts one is the 102 model, the 35 Volt 6 amp jobby. So what I'm going to do because the uh, youtube uh comment system is always a show. Um, I'm just like, no, I'm going to go.

I'm going to create threads over on the Eev Eevblog forum and one of them will be a random draw, so I'll link to a Euv blog thread down below. Check it out. You have to be a an existing Eev blog forum user. You can't just join now and do one post and you know, enter Sorry, but uh, you know it's for those who contribute, uh, to the site.

I think that's fair enough and I'll also give one away to a hackerspace, makerspace school, something like that. so that will be judged by me. So I'll have a separate thread for that put in your uh, you know, submit a video entry or whatever. Submit? I don't know.

Just yeah, we're a hacker space and we need one of these things and I don't know I'll choose a worthy winner. So thank you very much Roden Schwartz for uh, providing these to give away to my audience. That's fantastic and an interesting look inside a completely linear supply. this time, instead of um, the combined uh, tracking, switching pre-regulator which you get in this.

But of course you get advantages in that it is, uh, more powerful. It's got triple uh channel, of course, more total output power, smaller form factor, all that, sort of jazz. But yeah, if you want a nicer, cleaner linear supply like this, then check it out linked down below. So if you liked the video, give it a big thumbs up.

As always, discuss down below: catch you next time you.