Hi. it's repair time and we've got another bit of audio visual kit. Uh, instead of I think we had a Yamaha before. I think probably had a couple of Yamaha's Anyway, this is an uh, an Onkyo.

Apparently, you know, quite a decent, uh, reputable brand. It's the Tx Sr607 for those playing along at home and well, you might be able to see the little standby led. there. it's on.

and well, that's supposed to be on and it just relays a click in it. It's gone out of standby. Some relays click internally, but there's nothing on the display at all. It's one of those vacuum fluorescent uh jobbies, but I can't see anything.

And then you press the power button again and the little tiny, itty bitty standby lead comes on there. so I don't know if we got a display fire. Given that, uh, it does seem to come out of standby or I could. I could.

Physically, this is not feeler vision, but I could physically feel the transformer inside big ass transformer vibrate so you can feel the magnetizing current. so those relays will only come on. They're driven by like secondary side circuitry. so obviously some part of the secondary power supply works to actually be able to drive those relays.

Those like soft start relays and things like that. So because you don't want the speakers to go thump like have a big whopping Dc thump or something when uh, you switch it on. So usually they have like, uh, relays that defump the speakers when you switch on and stuff like that, so that all so it all seems kind of normal. Like three four seconds click.

then there's not yet. Then there's another click, so that sounds pretty normal. But units like this, they have many different, uh, supply rails in them, so it could be anything like that. It might just be as simple as the display power supply or something.

But anyway, let's crack it open. take a look. Here we are. I think this thing can do with a bit of a uh, it's I'll take it out into the stairwell and uh, give it a good once over.

but um, yeah. very nicely. uh designed and laid out inside. And by the way I checked, you can actually get this full service manual with schematics for this thing and it is beautiful.

Beautiful. So there's our massive transformer down there. High current power supply. Um, it's a absolute beast.

Magnetic shielding around there. Yep, there we go. It's soldered there. So yeah, that's beautiful.

Magnetic shielded. a couple of fuses down there. we'll check those. I can see some relays down there and everything.

There's a board here, which that just looks like a connection board going off to. yeah, some ribbon cables. which bugger off down to the boards and stuff like that. So anyway, is that how they connect all the power via those ribbon cables? Maybe.

Anyway, Um, yeah. as I said, there's going to be many different types of power supplies and the main Pcb down the bottom. That's all. uh, single-sided shall we? Not that double-sided rubbish.

And uh, it looks like these boards in here. these will be uh, driver transistor boards for the main, um, mosfets, which all could be Bjts, uh for the main heatsink down here. So because it looks like this board up the top here, that's just like, uh, input, uh, switching and stuff like that. So to get the main is the main power supply down on the could be down on the main board.

So to get all that out, we're gonna have to take everything out. But anyway, um yeah. just like the the cable ties and everything in here, the cable in it's all very neat and tidy. I like it.

There's a requisite backside for those playing along at home. It's got all the you know, newfangled Hdmi inputs and stuff like that, so it's reasonably modern. Um, Anyway, our standby, a soft standby switch is actually on this board here, which then goes over curiously to the display board. So there's got to be power to the display board and going over here.

And as I said, that is a like a lot soft logic switch which then eventually you know, Powers relays, um, down on the main board down here like we've seen before. and maybe there's another no that's an input board. uh yeah, down on the main board and stuff like that. So there's got to be like, you know, digital supply getting to the board here to the processor.

This is probably just the display processor itself. The main processor is probably down on the main board here, so it's got to be getting digital power to all that, and then you know and coming back from this board. So there's a lot of stuff which has to work in order for that soft power button to work. So that's rather interesting.

So yeah, we could maybe be looking at just a like display fault. Perhaps Maybe I could like feed in an audio signal and see if something comes out. Well, there's nice attention to detail look at that. They've gone to the effort to design two Pcbs just to hold the temperature sensor to measure the heat sink there, one little board just to hold the screw and then which, uh, presumably strapped down to the like the metal part which then is, uh, thermally coupled into the uh, to92 plastic temperature sensor there.

So yeah. but they've gone to quite a bit of effort just for that. Oh, there's the power in the back there and it's labeled collector base emitter. None of that gate rubbish.

Actually, right off the bat, some of those solder joints on that uh, transformer Pc interface Pcb there that would try as a dead dingo's dongle, so I think it's worth just taking before we do anything. Just taking one minute just to resolder those. That didn't help the display, but it made me feel better. Now I've got it hooked up just to one speaker here and if I turn it on, I don't know what channel I'm on, but if I turn the volume right up, I can hear your typical static at full volume on your speaker, so it's definitely working.

It's doing something. I think if I put a source into that, I think we might actually hear something, so I suspect it might be a display failure. Yep, works a treat. It's got a thousand hours battery life.

Beautiful. So I guess let that be a lesson to you. Uh, if you can check as much functionality as possible because, well, you know, look, get nothing on display. You might think okay, the power supplies fail.

but then you realize oh, it's doing the standby thing and I can hear relays clicking. You have a quick look inside and you can see that the relay, that, the soft logic button and the relays and everything is controlled by all the digital stuff and all that must be working. There's a lot of stuff that has to work in order just to, um, have this button actually turn this Led off and on and switch. Uh, some of the relays and stuff like that.

So yeah, as it turns out, there's a good chance that everything else I see. I'm not going to say everything, but like I I choose the ox input and it works. I know audio works. so it's definitely worth double checking that before you chase a red and down a bloody rabbit hole.

Um, trying to like debug the power supply and stuff like that Looks like there's probably nothing wrong with it. So uh yeah. I'm gonna look straight at the uh display board now. so I'd have three screws on the bottom here and I remove the knob.

But and looks like this front fascia is going to lift out. Not without a fight, but I think it's going to come out. There's probably some hooks on the top. Note: just had to get my thumbs under the bottom and tada, There you go.

That's actually aluminium. Uh, front. uh, case on that. That's really nice.

brushed aluminium. and there you go. We can get in there, there's any there any screws? Oh yeah, there's a couple of deep screws in here that should lift off because the board is screwed into the front and it doesn't make sense. If I was designing this, I would not design it so that you had to get all of this guts out including the bottom board before you could even access the screws that hold on that front panel board.

It just makes absolutely no sense at all. You want this to be like a finished assembly with the board in place, everything else and then you can assemble that and test that on its own test station in the production line and things like that. So yeah, that's is there another sneaky screw in there? It's actually another three sneaky buggers on the bottom. now.

does that? There we go. Now we're talking. uh. disconnect the Hdmi, Show you this.

There's just one little annoying ground lead right there. Get him off. That's just reference in the Hdmi switching board, which is down there. the Html, no, the Hdmi receiver board.

and then it transmits. um, back through. But oh, there we go. We've got the ribbon cable on the front over in that corner and that's about it.

Nice. They put tape there holding that in place. Nice touch so it doesn't get pinched when you put the metal case on top. Always remember when you're designing stuff to tie your cables down and things like that, There you go.

There's the entire front panel assembly. You can now work on that. Well, there's really not a lot going on here, is there? I mean that looks like a single-sided jobby got one quad flat pack there. This is all wave solder by the way.

thank you very much. Are the solder feed in there when the big solder wave comes over it? That's to ensure that, uh, you don't get any like, uh, Klingons and stuff like that on your joints. Well, nothing worse than a bunch of Klingons Klingons off the starboard boughs. I have to pull a number off that, but yeah, it's probably a custom jobby.

Um, it wouldn't surprise me at all. And there's a little bit of action happening down here. Uh, some discreet trainees and a little, uh, eight pin so there. But no, that's just.

uh, like the audio imports that they were actually working that was working fine. So that's probably like a, you know, Jrc audio amp or something like that. So really, um, there's no power supply stuff on this at all. I'll flip it, I'll get the board out and flip it over.

but um, we could have a, uh, vacuum fluorescent. uh, failure. So in that case, I mean, or if that's that chip, we're probably not gonna get another one. I think we might be screwed.

I'll show you the full schematic at the end of this, so stick around for that. But anyway, because it is pretty fantastic. Anyway, Um, here's our vacuum fluorescent. uh, driver.

It's the M66005 and yes, it's obsolete. Um, but you know you might be able to still get it somewhere and that just dries out vacuum fluorescent tube here and there's not much else surrounding that. Um, so yeah, there's not too much to go wrong now. Interestingly down here, this is where our standby switch is on the front, and the standby switch if, well, the, sorry, the standby Led.

Actually, if you follow the money, it's not controlled via that uh, vacuum fluorescent chip. It just goes straight back to the connector board, over to here, back to the main processor. But curiously, the reason I mentioned the chip is because this, uh, zone Led and this, uh, pure audio Led. It looks like they're actually.

they do actually follow the money up here and these actually go into well, it looks like some digital I O of the vacuum fluorescent driver chip. So there you know you can send some data into the vacuum fluorescent driver and drive a couple of digital I O pins which they're conveniently using there to uh to drive those Leds on the front. but that's got nothing to do with what we're doing here. the standby switch that's not controlled by that, that's actually going all the way back as well.

So if you've got a fire on your vacuum fluorescent uh display here, it's either the chip itself or one of the, you know, like, handful of uh, surrounding circuitry. Um, by the way, I think this, that is your receiver and there's a little arrow coming in that's your Ir. That's your remote control Ir receiver. So it makes sense to have it on the display board because it's got little front panel pokery out bits that can see outside.

But anyway, what we're interested in is the connector over here. Obviously like there's no blow holes in the chip, There's nothing physical that we can actually see. We've got various rails here. We've got plus 3.3 We've got plus 5 display.

That's interesting. Plus 5 just for the plus 5 display You want to be measuring that and plus minus 15 volts as well. But the plus minus 15 volts that looks like that just buggers off down to this um set. It's got a setup mic.

You know when you're set up because it's one of these new fingers surround sound. Uh things. If you get a calibration microphone, you can, um, set it up. You put it in the middle of the room and it auto calibrates itself.

They've got a dedicated Uh mic preamp for that, so that's interesting. But anyway, yeah, I'd be checking that plus 5 volt display and the plus 3.3 there because if you can't get that, well, you're buggered. Good thing is, we can just swing out this display and probe it right up. Its clacker while it's powered on.

Brilliant! Thank you very much to the Pcb layout person who thoughtfully provided, um, the silkscreen overlay there for all the pin out. so if you didn't have the schematic, you could go in there. check the rails. Beautiful.

Lucky Pin 13 is the 5 volts. Whoa. 4.78 But make sure I had the right ground point. This is digital ground.

The relays just clicked. That's interesting. Hello, relays are clicking. Something's going on.

I wasn't touching it and the relays were clicking on me. Okay, let's try that again. I know that point there is digital ground and that's five. Oh, there we go.

Yep, so the point I was measuring. uh, trapped. for young players. Buzz it out.

Don't assume it's ground just for kicks. We'll measure those other power rails. plus minus 15. Yeah, they're good, but that's got nothing to do with the Vfd.

But it's always good to check power rails because it can be indicative of something else because other rails could be derived from higher rails. so you never know. But in this case, not because you wouldn't derive a 3.3 volt or 5 volt digital rail from a 15 volt analog. But you know.

Yeah, the principle's there. 3.3 is 21.. there you go. Our 3.3 volt rail is good.

So all our rails are good. So ah yeah, it's either the vacuum fluorescent display, the vacuum fluorescent display chips, or, uh, one of the surrounding components or something like that. Or it could be something exotic, like, I don't know, a front like a a solder joint cracked or something like that. or um, something is.

You know? it's probably worth like a quick one minute visual inspection on the chip and whatnot and the other parts. But we're not done on our power supplies yet because vacuum fluorescent displays think of them like, well, they're vacuum tubes. It's in the name. They actually need a filament supply to work, and they're usually the pins on the end of the display here.

So if you want to, actually, uh, measure one, they're usually either you know, on one end like that, or a cross like that. So um, yeah, sure enough, look, there's two pins on this end, shorter, two pins on this end. Fl1, Fl2. And if you follow the money, they actually are not generated by the chip here.

Um, they actually go over to here on the connector. and sure enough, Fl Ac1 and Ac2 pins one and three the filament Ac supply there. so we need to measure that. So for this, we use our special Vfd mode on our multimeter.

no that stands for variable Frequency drive, not vacuum fluorescent display. Anyway, we are getting diddly squat on that. So aha, there's our culprit. We've found it.

We're getting nothing on the filament for the vacuum fluorescent display. and well, vacuum tubes and vacuum fluorescent displays don't work if you don't heat them up with the filament. That's what it's there for their vacuum tubes. So yeah, no filament, no electrons, and it turns out that filament Ac signal goes through uh, quite a few boards.

As you saw, you know it goes into that uh, side, uh board and then goes into the main amplifier board and anything. But anyway, the Uh Fl Ac. Not sure if you can read that, but anyway, that basically goes from. you know it just goes like through this board like this, over here to another one and then another one and it eventually gets back to uh, of course the filament tap on the main transformer here and that's the board.

I, uh, resolded at the start and you can see like there's a series resistor. There's but, uh, yeah, let's um, let's start right at the source and measure our Ac because I don't know something might have happened to the wind in there. I'm sure the solder joints okay, but you know, never know. It doesn't actually tell you what the filament voltage is, but a classic uh valve filament voltage.

5.6 volts, five or six, and 5.66 There you go. So it's fine. Uh, does it get through that resistor there? Oh, 4.4 It drops on the other side of that resistor, so we must have some drop. Yeah, actually there's 1.2 volt drop across that, um, 8 ohm resistor there.

Geez. Sure enough, on that board, it's actually rated as a half watt resistor, so that makes sense. You probably wouldn't use a half white. you'd only use a quarter watt if there was like Naf or current.

So using a half watt for a reason there. it's obviously not open, but I'll just verify that that's 8.2 Nope, it's half that, but that is in circuit. Well, it turns out that I was actually measuring the wrong pins there. It, uh, wasn't those ones on the end? It's actually this one over here and I'll spare you all the footage that I shot of, um, trying to track that down.

But anyway, it was really annoying. So it's actually here. And here there we go. 4.4 volts.

Okay, so we have a filament voltage. Um, is it supposed to be that low? I'm not entirely sure. Yeah. So we've got ourselves our Ac filament voltage there, so that's okay.

So uh, what's left driver chip? Even that all the magic smoke from the vacuum fluorescent displays escaped. Thou shall measure voltages and well, we have one more to measure. There's a plus a 3.9 volt rail in there, which that transistory there is doing something. but that is uh, Vcc one there for the uh main driver chip.

So if we're not getting 3.1 uh, 3.9 volts on there, where is that being derived from? Aha, It's been derived from the uh Ac supply here, so there's something wrong in there. We're not getting that 3.9 volts gotcha. And it's that point in the video where I thought I was going insane. but no, it turns out Murphy has bitten us on the ass.

Look at this. I was wondering why I was measuring, uh, like you know, the voltages weren't off and then I started them were off. and then I started to uh, check grounds. going to the chip and the grounds didn't match up and everything like over here on the schematic pins 19 and 20.

right? I was using those as a ground. I was tracing that back as a ground reference and I was wondering why 19 and 20 weren't shorted? Look at the silk screen 19 and 20 over here are Led standby and key into. Um, it's 14 and 15. that actually Ground.

The schematic does not match the Pcb yet. This is the schematic for this model number, but maybe they've got a different rev board or something. Unbelievable. Oh, I get it now.

look. pin one is pin 33 and vice versa. It's just upside down compared to the Pcb. Ah, it's obvious I've got the Australian version of the schematic.

The moral to that story is like when you notice something weird, follow it. Like I noticed that oh okay, the voltage is like I wasn't getting the voltage I I wanted like I was measuring. There's another Uh pin on the chip which is a Vp and I was like I was measuring that and I wasn't getting it. I was trying to trace it back because you need a ground reference of course to measure it and I was choosing the connector over there and it wasn't right.

And then I thought something started going down the rabbit hole. Well, is this ground? Yeah. Have I got a dry joint? Is there a bad link? Or you know, in in one of the links? Because this is all a single-sided board. So there's all these links in there.

It's got to jump. All the ground has to jump over. Maybe one of those is bad or something. So I was following her back and I could not buzz the ground pin of this.

I ultimately went right. I'm checking that the ground pin of this goes over to the ground here and it didn't And then I kept following. And then I realized, don't the pin out's wrong. So don't ignore that niggling feeling that something's up.

because, well, something could be up and something was up. Damn it. Okay, I have determined a ground a reference point here. That's the ground of the chip.

I have determined that this point up here is the 3.9 volts of the ah, what do we get? 3.5 Oh, is that near enough? Is that near enough? I don't know. Maybe I have to read the data sheet, but you know it's good enough for Australia. Surely. Well, no.

It turns out that that, uh, 3.9 volts there is not generated from the filament Ac. It's actually generated from a Zener over here. Look, 3.9 volt Zener with an emitter follower there. All right.

So let's actually check this emitter follower circuit here. Uh, where five volts in? We've already measured the five volts. We know that's okay. this is supposed to be.

I don't quite understand. This is supposed to be a 3.9 volt Zener there. and it says that it's 3.9 volts on the output. Well, you're going to get your drop.

You're going to get your Pn drop in there. so I'm not sure what the deal is there. But anyway, let's measure that. Make sure we got that rail there.

It's our 5 volts input as we expect, and we're actually getting that's the Zener voltage. That's uh, 4.2 instead of 3.9 So I'm not sure why. Um, who knows, they might have changed the part. We might have an out of date schematic.

Um, Anyway, let's measure the 3.5 3.5 volt rail instead of 3.9 Whether that makes a difference, I don't know. but that's kind of like the drop you'd expect. It's not zero, so I don't know. Is that good enough for Australia? Three and a half.

Okay, so what I've done is, I've measured all the caps on there. I've made sure like there's no shorts anywhere. Everything looks fine. the diodes measure fine, Everything's hunky-dory So next thing to do is check.

Uh, that the chip's actually getting um, signals to it. There's a couple of resistors down here, so on one side, there you go. that's some sort of clockity-doo dart on the other side of the resistor just to make sure it's not being loaded down. No, yeah, that's like data.

That's data that, yep, looks like data. Again, Yep, that looks good. and the other one's just a reset and that's permanently high. I believe that is correct.

So it's not reset. So chip's getting um, data. So, but it's not displaying anything. So is the four point whatever volts on the vacuum? uh, filament? Too low? Is it the has the magic vacuum escaped from the uh, vacuum fluorescent display? Is the chip otherwise somehow dead.

The external components. Does that emit a follower circuit? cause A? Is that causing an issue? I kind of expected it to at least do something, so I don't know. Well, the next thing we want to do is uh, there's another rail in here. That's the Vp pin on here and that comes from this diode circuit here which taps off.

uh, the Ac. It's a bit convoluted, the way it's all drawn. you've got to follow it. but it basically taps off the Ac filament voltage.

So and you can see that that cap there goes down to that 3.9 volt rail and it's backwards. So so negatives over here. Positive is over here. So we expect uh, that Vp rail to be negative as opponent compared to 3.9 and that I believe is going to be the uh, the driver voltage for the vacuum fluorescent.

So we should be able to see a negative voltage on there. So let's measure Vp. Uh, it's 3.9 volts. Um, what the heck? The other side of the diode? there Six volts.

Um, Okay, okay, let's get the crow on that. And well. there's our filament voltage. Okay, so that's Hunky Dory and the other side over here.

Well, the wrong pin. Again, There we go. That's our filament voltage. So there is our that's one side of the diode.

that's the other side. I ain't seeing no negative voltage, so something's going on there. So what? we're going to do is, uh, check that Zener in there. It's supposed to be an 8.2 volt Zener.

That's one way 0.8 So regular Diode, drop the other way using 15 volt diode mode on the 121 Gw. There you go. Um, that's bang on. So nothing wrong with that Zener.

You can see those two resistors in there 220 ohms each. so that's just feeding that. So we're supposed to get a negative voltage out of there when not. So I'm going to check those caps.

Well, that 47 mic across the diode looks okay, and the other cap in there? that 10 mic. That's just fine as well. So yeah, what the problem is, is this. uh, Vp voltage Here, It's supposed to be like, significantly negative, I.e tens of volts negative.

Like, you know, minus 40 volts or something. It's the pull down voltage for the vacuum fluorescent tube and we're only getting like positive. Two volts on there. That's all we're measuring.

so everything else around here seems to be fine, so I can only assume. Okay, it's going in there. That's 10k. That's high impedance, so it's nothing to do with that transistor.

There it goes. Vp does go over to here. There is a cap there. Oh, could that one be shorted? Oh, I might have to check that, but it does go somewhere over to the connector.

Why don't I Is it being generated over there? I thought it was generated here from the but yeah, we don't have enough voltage there. Hmm, where's this going? I'm going to follow the money there. Well, yep. um.

if I actually engage my brain, I would have known that yes, that negative Vp voltage is like. We should have checked that and we should know when it was negative and we should have like could have saved a bit of time there. Anyway, Um yeah, this is actually on the Uh Video switch board. So over here, here you go.

There's our Plus five, so a plus five volt display. We've actually, yeah, we've got that. No problems whatsoever. But the negative Vp there is actually it's generated down here.

There you go. There's a 30 something volt Zener and there you go. It's supposed to be negative Vp. It's actually uh, marked as minus 35 volts.

so we're clearly not getting that. That's why it ain't working. So now believe it or not, we're actually going back to the transformer tap board over here. and I've measured it.

Um, because that Vp comes from a separate tap. It's a 39 volt. I'm measuring 39 volts. uh, Ac on there.

So anyway, we have to get to the video switching board which is now under here. And that's like really annoying. Like why couldn't they have put this stuff on the actual Uh display board itself? Ah, these bloody multi-board designs just put stuff around willy nilly have. Oh, that's a standoff post.

There we go. There you go. There's a ribbon cable there Now access a video switching board down there which has our negative Vp generator on it. And here's where it starts becoming a gigantic pain in the ass.

Because here's our negative uh Vp here. This comes from our Ac tap down here and uh, this stuff here is unfortunately on the bottom of this board down here. We don't have easy access anymore. There it is there.

we're looking at. Uh, Zener Diode, 36 Volt, Zener Diode 9005, and 9001. down there. there's 9005 down there.

This is the bottom side, the solder inside of the board, but we can actually access uh, 9001. That's actually on the top side. That's I think those three pins in there. So that's a To92.

And but basically, yeah, um, we're getting like it was easy. Before we could measure this thing all powered up and everything's hunky-dory but now it's integrated with this sideboard over here and it's all interconnected and oh it's just no. I think the only way to get this board out because it's got like you can't just lift it out because uh, it's connected right angle into this ball which is then connected down there and it's got its own standoffs and everything else. I think we have to get this back panel off, Pull this off and hopefully these boards that are connecting to the speaker jacks there because like I can't Yeah, you can't get those.

Yeah, I have to unscrew all those, unscrew the entire back panel, and hopefully the back panel comes off and then we can pull this board out and then up. Okay, I think I got every screw out and then I had to take the mains cord Grommet out. Hey, there we go. That's actually very nice how that pulls out there.

Now that ball's just flapping around in the breeze. Now they're all just flapping around in the breeze. But yeah, I should be able to pull that off now and access my surface mount parts on the bottom. Unbelievable.

Yeah, there we go. We can now access the stuff on the bottom, but uh yeah, I don't see how we got like we probably can't just power this up on its own because uh, then you don't have the connections through to the front panel and the soft power switch and all that. Although I think by default it does power on. Um, so maybe we don't need that anyway.

And these ribbon cables too. You can't just pull them out. They've actually got like a locking mechanism on the side of these, so you can't just can't just whip them out. But anyway, so I might have to bring the soldering iron to the job now.

Unfortunately, it doesn't look like we can power this thing up externally. There's just too many. um, interconnected boards and everything. I mean, I'm just measuring like the basic 12 volt rail coming out of the tap there and it ain't working.

So yeah, I can't just like power this thing up and probe around and everything. Maybe I could hack the soft start circuitry to make it actually switch on and make it work. but oh geez, it's getting messy now. Anyway, Um, yeah, the the problem here is that we don't have our negative 35 volt rail and I did find it's on one of the actually the only place that's the voltage is ever marked for.

Our negative Vp is on the Uh overlay for one of the Pcbs one of the Pcbs that it passes through. It's got minus 35 volts on it, so it should be at that. and that's the only rail that we don't have. So unfortunately, like I've tested the Uh Diode in here, I've tested the transistor.

Well, it's you know, As far as I can without taking out a circuit, they all seem okay, so I'm not sure what the heck's going on. Hmm. And sure enough, that uh, 2sc 2235 transistor tests. Okay, at least at a basic level in a tester like this doesn't mean there's not some high voltage breakdown or some other you know aspect to it, but it's a transistory.

So uh, as far as this video is concerned, Um, it. it's a bit of a diminishing returns I mentioned this on twitter. Um, doesn't mean I'm not going to fix it, it just means the effort required to go through. It's going to take many, many more hours probably to dick around with this thing to try.

and uh, get to the bottom of this. Anyway, yeah, I'm calling it quits for this video. so consider this a part one. We've found the fault, but it's just not easy to test and get back up and running.

That's all. So yeah, I'm just going to leave it here. for the time being. I need to get on with other stuff.

Sorry if you don't like these repair videos that you know. Oh Dave only released the video When you finish the repair. what are you hopeless or something? Oh look, you know, come on. this is just ridiculous.

Anyway, I hope this video was interesting enough so I'm going to leave it there for the part one. I think we got to an interesting point where we've discovered what's actually wrong with this thing. It's just a matter of fixing it and with all the paths that are going through all the different boards on this it it really is a pain in the butt. and just not being able to power it up is just really annoying.

And oh god Anyway, Ah, I've had enough for part One. Catch you next time.