Hi, it's vintage Tech Scope time. You may remember these: Somebody sent these two classic Tektronix 2465 scopes, once the original 24 65 and once a 2465 be the coveted 2465. be some say many say the best analog oscilloscope ever made argued down below in the comments. Now my recent visit by a Nobel Laureate: Barry Marshall If you haven't seen that video, seriously, even if you don't think you'd be interested in hearing a Nobel Prize Laureates story, trust me, it's really good.

Everyone who watched it thinks it's absolutely fantastic I'll Lincoln it at the end. Anyway, he's a tech, a vintage tech, a buff as well as having a Nobel Prize and he's actually got a 24 65 B and he he loves these things that reminded me the 2465 the two of them that I've got here sorry to whoever sent this in I forget your name it was a couple of years back I've had these sitting on my shelves in the background in my mailbag segments for quite some time and they both are scrapped units. but I thought I'd pair them up and see what the status is because I can't remember I think one of them had a power supply hiccup the other didn't. This one has no trace written on the inside of it and it's scrapped and the both of them don't have cases on them.

but I thought it's worthy of actually having look see if we can fix this I'd much prefer to get the the newer one the more modern B Series one going because it's 400 megahertz as opposed to 300 megahertz I Do like the classic blue screen on this I don't know why this is the red. this like like Marone kind of color it looks yeah I don't know I just don't like to look at it. Much prefer this one down here. so I'm not sure the history of that change or not in the graticule changing like that.

Anyway, if you do know, please let me know. But absolutely classic scopes and they're worth taking a look at. And yes, I do I did upload the video on the second channel the Tektronix the Ancien. it was a 465 or 475 and that's a sort of like in progress repair.

but if I'm going to spend the hours on it I'd probably rather spend some time trying to get the 2465 be fix. So let's pair it up. have a look. now.

if you have a look inside both of them, this is the newer B model. this is the older one. you can see no trace scrapped. somebody's written that on there and they're basically have equivalent power supplies.

They look absolutely equivalent. They have the same interface, all that sort of stuff. but of course this one looks more modern because it is and everything looks very similar between these units. But this one, the older one does have an extra card on here I believe that's entirely integrated in the processor board on this one, but apart from that, they are very similar now as far as the main processor ball goes, I Don't even think I need to tell you which one is the more modern one.

It's obvious with all these surface mount down the bottom and look at all the beautiful through-hole resistors on the top. though. look at that. That's just a thing of beauty.

It's joy forever. But anyway, the new Modern B1, It's all surface mount. Another through-hole rubbish. And what's the process for an SC Six, Seven, One two.

What's that? I'm not entirely sure. Anyway, yeah, the Delos semiconductor that in non-volatile 119. This is a thirty second week. Nineteen Ninety.

So we're talking near thirty years now. So geez, yeah, that battery will be no good. But anyway, that's the least of our concerns now. So we're looking at getting a trace up and running on this thing.

and the older one is Ninety Four Vintage. You're gonna well. they're the roms. Eighty Eighty Four, Eighty Four.

sorry I was looking at the head that's looking at Ninety Four, Ninety Five there and I thought jeez, that's pretty recent. No the other ones Eighty-four Wow Okay, Nineteen Eighty Four and you can see the numbering on the chips as well. 1984. So yeah, it's quite a significant difference there.

So on. extra six years and an updated model that makes all the difference. And as for all the analog stuff on the bottom, with all the customized these custom heat sinks, every one of these is a custom job' there near-identical There's a few differences like you know immediately spotted like this down here. like it's got a little ground link and a one resistor.

This one's got a ground link and a couple of diodes and a bunch more resistors. But apart from that, you know that layout. This one's got an extra trimmer in there. Does it? There's yeah, there's a few differences, but largely the architecture is very similar, so maybe they could.

So obviously I could possibly use one as a parts unit perhaps. So definitely if you're gonna repair these having obviously to be ideal to have a cell like the same model but should be able to at least salvage some parts if we ultimately need to on the from the a unit. So I'm all the tech buffs out there and by the way, no I am NOT going to consult I should if you're going to repair these I highly recommend you consult like the Tektronix Repair Yahoo group and stuff like that they will be screaming at me during these videos that oh, that's obviously that capacitor there. It's all that.

Doya that transistor fails all the time. Everyone knows that. Well, yeah, okay. I'm just gonna wing it.

sorry. Can see small little changes like these. have a discreet whirring just going to headers from the controls, the nobbies on the front. Where is this one over here? The newer model looks like it has that flat flex on there, so just some you know.

sort of tidy up. improvements in terms of manufacturer ability from the side. Near-identical as well. These board has changed, but the functionality hasn't the wire and sure the Warrens even all the same.

So yeah, there's just change. See, don't change the pots over but it looks similar. All right. Here we go.

I'm going to pair up the new 2465, be a lot of people will recommend. I pair it up. Just going to automatically change all the caps. and yeah, okay.

okay here we go. All of the lights come on. that's good. Will they go out? I Do remember when I used to use one of these babies.

They used to come on as a pair on test but they ain't going off. No, it shouldn't take that long. you can see it. That's nicer.

Know anything about his past life I Don't really have any test points marked as such. no voltage is marked on their terrible Muriel Yeah, we have some crop circles I'm not saying it's aliens and I can't see any marked voltage test points on this board. Maybe there is one. I've missed it but can't see Diddly Squad I'm sure the service manual has it all covered, but geez, you know, put on a silk screen please.

All right, do we have five volts on our board? Let's go across a random chippy. Yep. four point, nine, seven, five hours. All right, Presumably that's why all our LEDs are lighting up because they'd be under logic control just for kicks.

Let's plug in the the older 1984. was it 85? Yeah. 84 83 model. Let's go.

It's hiccup in I Hear something hiccup in tick tick tick tick. This scope will self-destruct in 10 seconds. Now, upon a closer inspection of the board, check this out. We've got some corrosion on these parts around here.

that's a resistor of these two caps. I Reckon these electrodes? they are looking pretty sick. So Eric and they've spewed their guts everywhere. Hmm.

there's the same cap up on the other end of the board that looks a bit crusty rusty too. So yeah. I Suspect all those caps are gone. Well, you're not going to believe it.

All of the test points voltage test points are on is 14 pin dip socket here. Who would have known a J1 19? Yes. I Had to read the service manual to find out. Although if you follow the money those pins down in there they actually I what go through to the power supply board on top.

but they're not really labeled anything. You can physically follow them. So yeah, really, you had to RTFM to know what these are Supplies aren't sure enough in our service manual. Ridiculously comprehensive.

I'll link it in down below. Crazy. Anyway, let's measure all our test points so these are all the and not in order which is kind of annoying, but these are all our different rails on here so let's measure those. We already know the digital +5 Old digital seems okay I'm not measuring that Ripple yet I'm just making sure they're in the ballpark.

Okay. Pin 1 Minus 15? that is minus 15. Surprise Surprise. Pin 2 at Digital plus 5 Already measured that? Yep, it's good for is Plus 10 volts Bang-on Look at that.

well least significant digit out. But come on. Minus 5 volts 6 plus 15 Wow that is bang on 8 plus 87 volts. Now we're getting high.

Bang On Ridiculous. Surely one of them is gonna be filed 940 2.40 P 2 points 300 It's a little bit low. It does tell you the tongs on here, by the way, it is within tolerance. 11 is - eight Lucky Last Analog plus five on twelve Wow Winner winner chicken dinner.

All of our power supplies on this fine and dandy. Doesn't mean you wouldn't go in and fix the caps or anything like that, but all of our lids on the front just on so it's not going through the sequence. I Might read the manual and see if it says anything about LEDs Stuck on. But yeah, anyway, we do know we have some dodgy caps on there and that non-volatile SRAM that's got to be Gonski By the way, you might be able to see down in this power supply.

There's a Reefer Madness capacitor down in there. Or the effect? There's two of them. You see another sneaky one down in there. Yeah, I'm gonna want to replace those, but right at this moment.

No, yeah, I need to solve the digital problem. Now as it turns out, there's actually a whole set of comprehensive tests when this thing powers on. There we go and they are indicated by not only on the CRT like as in text on the CRT, but obviously our CRT isn't working here. In fact, we're being fined.

Not zippity-doo-dah Nothing's readout intensity? Nope. so no, no good. even a scale. Illuminations not working.

So yeah, no, that's one sick puppy. But anyway. I'm they. It does a kernel test first.

like basic kernel tests and errors indicated by various LEDs lighting up on the front panel. but I don't see and then it goes under more routine. like more thorough tests of all sorts of stuff. But and I can't see anything where all of these are lit up.

It doesn't say anything about that in the manuals, so are they actually on? or they just bleed through from the other? It can't really tell. It does take time. so obviously the process is doing something because the process has to drive the Oh or something on the screen there. Did we? yeah, look, got something? Wow Okay, that's well.

yeah. alright. it doesn't say anything. Not that I could find about all the LEDs lit up.

So yeah is up the RAM So I'm just gonna measure the ripple on the 5 volt digital because that's all we care about at the moment. So working on ice seep in to the spec is a hundred and 50 millivolts peak to peak ripple and we're getting my 350 millivolts. So yeah, 5 Volt Rail. It's got a lot of Ripley on it.

That would explain a bit. Ok I just want to have a look at that ripple with the scope. We're at 200 millivolts per division. So yeah, there's your problem.

We're only supposed to have 150 milli volts peak-to-peak so our ripple is absolutely enormous. Whether or not that's causing an issue I don't know, but that's really not even in the ballpark compared to the total spec there. So yeah, you'd probably want to fix that first before troubleshooting further. I'm gonna say they getting this power supply out of here is pretty horrible.

It does actually slide out if you undo some screws at the bottom there, but then some of the wiring, especially to the voltage selection switch on the back. They've got little Spade terminals. They have to be lifted off the board in this direction, but they're hidden behind here and to get these it's just a it's a mess. don't like it.

big strapping earthly there, how you doing? Oh and there they are. They don't looking good. Nick we go. this looks just looks old, cracked or whatnot.

Yeah, I'd be just sucking those out as a matter of course. Anyway, what we're really interested in is the 5 volt rail here because we want to solve our digital problem first. So that's going to be our 5 volt main supply. Under there.

there's our big DC input filter cups after the bridge rectifier because this is a switching converter obviously. Yeah, and there's another sneaky bugger down in there. And yep, that's genuine reefer madness. And there's a thermoelectric mechanical switch in there for measuring the temperature of the powertrain.

Ease on that heatsink of the casings on. look at that. three powertrain is there Anyway, that's just in short, that'll just Auto cut off the supply, where if that heat sink over heats. Now of course.

a really annoying thing about this is that the connectors are labeled on the silkscreen. You know you've got your JS fine. But as I said, there's no voltage test points like oh well. There's no like voltage marked test points or anything like that.

but all of your capacitors. These aren't labeled like you know, see 100 or whatever. You've got to actually go and get the service manual and schematic and get your board overlay, which is like, okay, well, fine, okay. the manuals ridiculously comprehensive.

like hats off, they just don't make them like they used to. Absolutely fantastic. But yeah, you've got to go in and get you overlays, so it's kind of. It's really annoying.

Anyway, what we're interested in here is our five volt regulator. Here it is and see and our output caps. see 1280 That's our 5 Volt rail. Okay I like this that it's labeled C 1280.

Like this to match our Q 1280 up here. they label them in sections that's a trap for no cities I think I covered that in my good schematic design Practice video didn't I if I didn't well it should have been in there. Yeah, like match them Group label like this cuz you know if this was Q 1280 and this was C you're a 101 or something like that it you know it's just not as nice. have to match up anyway.

So we will check our output cap, but also because the ripple. This isn't going to be a magic ripple rejection here. we're going to look at this one which is the +5 volt Unrig here. The printout didn't show it.

so we jump over to here and sorry for crudit of this. but if you have a look at the 5 Volt Unrig down in here, I think it's that one. C1 15 there. So we got a 250 mic cap down in there.

so that's the input side to the unregulated one. So we want to check those two caps. They're probably dead as a dodo. So C1 15 there.

It's that puppy. and which is different to these ones. these are brown ones. These are probably lower ESR ones.

So this would be a 5 volt cap. that's our unrig cap and the other one. and then C12 80 is there. So we've got a flippity doo-dah and C12 80.

Which one is it? Ah, that puppy there. But because they're all identical like that, you know if you got one fail, you would also a suspect and measure the others and a lot of people will go and go. Hole bugger it. I've got the board out I'm replacing every single a little electrolytic in this thing.

It's like it's already like what is it 35 years old or something and yeah, I don't blame you. so I don't know if I want to do that I just want to get the 5 volt way or I just want it to sort of see if that's causing the problem of like not booting up so to speak. So one side of the board flips out here and wow, look at that burn mark from that regulator. isn't that terrible? Muriel Yeah, well, it obviously gets hot, but there's no indication that that one's failed at all because all our rails are measured just fine, so no worries.

anyway. I Want to suck out that? I'm just going to measure it first if we can measure anything in circuit and anything Funny business and we'll get that out. And they've got a shield between here as well, which is actually connected. but yeah, more or burn marks down on there or somebody's header.

Hang on. Is that a Harry hacker? Somebody's Are they? They just hand done. look. There's a bit of a hairy hacker down there with the they look budge Don And they're all.

the flux residue. Doesn't look like any of the others. Were they done by hand at production time? I would be I Don't know, Maybe Hmm. Anyone know? Oh no.

Check it out. Look the row of these caps here. We think that one's failed on the file. A Suspect: Get that.

these ones are fine. These are got the original wave soldering on them. That ones are hairy hacker. So as yes, I want to go at this? Okay, we'll just do a crude in-circuit ESR here at a hundred kilohertz.

so it's oh sorry, it's just one over here. This is our five volt one. This is our suspect. one point, three, Point two, seven.

Ohms, that sounds pretty good. Let's measure the other ones which are all identical type and value for point Two nine. Yeah, that's good. That's good.

There you go. so they're all the same. So oh, hang on. it's got a pierce through the flux there.

It's where you need sharp probes. There you go. So all those ones look, they're all the same, so you know you wouldn't really suspect that you might suck it out and give it a more thorough test. But I would say that one's okay, so that that's the output capacitor, the output of the regulator.

So the other one is this one here. 2.9 Almost three. Ohms. So I suspect that one might be cactus.

That would explain it the pre regulator one. So yep, let's suck that out. Wow Something is very wrong here. I suck that out and it's only a 10 microfarad, a hundred and sixty fault cap.

Nippon Chemi-con But what the what? What? It's supposed to be a 250 Mike like and you don't expect like 10 volts or something. This is ridiculous I Definitely have the correct capacitor. Look, there's two there. There's a third one up.

There is two here. a third one up there. see triple 1:5 Like what? this is the same board. I'm sure this is the same board.

the heck's going on? Well, you're not gonna believe this. There's actually an error in the manual. believe it or not. whether or not they're fix this in the ear adder in later versions.

I Don't know, but see triple 1/5 + C Double 132. It looks like they're swapped on the overlay here because I was tracing out the board here I was like I was tracing out I'm supposed to go to this at 5 volts. Was supposed to go to this inductor over here and it didn't make sense. It was going to this cap here and it was just.

it was crazy. So yeah, they've actually swapped these two caps. So I googled this and sure enough, yep, up comes the Eevblog forum. How would Long who's a longtime contributor on there? He discovered the same fault as well.

And yeah, the the bloody service manual is swapped so there's nothing wrong with that cap. of course, measuring that sort of ESR for a 10 microfarad 160 volt cap is just fine. So that's the 5 volt job' there. so that's the culprit I need to sort of that back in and suck that one out.

Unbelievable. And that dodgy little sucker which somebody's heard had a hairy hacker at 25 ohms at 100 K in circuit. So yeah, it sucked that little turd out. and is that an original or not I suspect not and she's about 20 2 ohms out of circuit.

that's too high and 1.5 micro Farad's 1,500 Dana First reunified fanboy see yep, how to explain our poor pre regulation on that thing. And of course all that Ripple has to do. He's dropped on the floor that Ripple is passing through the regulator onto the output and back at 100 Hertz 142 Mike Yep, that's no good for a 220 Mike that's why under it's gone ski now I've replaced it with a just a generic one hung low brand 330 Mike 25 volt cap and well, yeah, I know I shouldn't do that, but that's all I've got at the moment so the lab is an absolute mess I Just want to get something back in there that's going to get that five volt rail operating again and just for now I Want to put it back in I won't bother replace in any other caps in it just looking at the five volt rail one thing at a time. And of course, you wouldn't do this.

If you're experienced with these sort of things, you'd go art like. you'd have kids that just replace all the caps and see. You know, like stuff like that in this ol' bitty gear. But for the purposes of this video, please do not comment about this down below just for the purposes of this video.

I Want to see if just changing that one cap makes a difference? Okay, let's see what happens. I Haven't changed any of those leaking electrodes on the main digital board. Just wanted to solve that power supply problem. So here we go now.

Lights are different. Lights Come on. No, come on. Before there, they're all on again.

Bummer. Okay, well, that could still be the the electrodes on there. so let's have a look at the ripple. All right, we're 200 milli volts peak-to-peak again.

Power on. Whoa. No, it's still cactus. That's no good.

So I sucked out that secondary cap or I did like the output cap 0.2 2 Ohms, that sounds pretty good. That's what we had before. So let's go to. let's change our frequency back 100 microfarads and that's - oops.

off-camera 100 microfarads. That's what we expect. So that caps actually in good. Nick It's an itchy con.

Alright, so I'm going back to these other caps here which have all been sucked out. So let's have a squirt like I'd I think I might just go in there and replace the blinking light Somebody something could be are bleeding over to the other to the 5 volt rail. but I can't really see how. But anyway.

hmm Ok, I've actually replaced all the caps there or at least all the major one. So let's switch on and it something's it's hiccup in. Look, check that out. there we go.

That's progress. ha ha. Hiccup empowers like he could. You got hiccup? Okay, I'm gonna capture the five volt rail again.

There it is. Whoa. That's two volts per division. As you can see, it's starting up to four, four, and half volts and then it.

It basically just shuts back down and it repeats every you know, second or two. So that's very interesting going from a work well working in quote marks. Oh oh, hang on. Look, look, it's gone through itself.

Test. Hang on. It's not hiccuping. We have a trace.

Whoa. What that? I Just went away for five minutes to have a look at the manual, came back and it went through its power on self test, we know. So I'm not sure what that hiccuping was. There might be something else a little bit dodgy in there that was tripping the some sort of over current protection, but wow, we're in like Flynn look at that.

look at race. we've got trace. We have no display. hang on readout.

Yeah, we hear we have some readout -. wiener. It's all fuzzy though. Look at that.

I don't like that. Is that some? is that some jitter on the readout? but hey, it went through the power-on self-test Let's try. That's bad. that's bad.

Hang on. Whoa. A thing of beauty is a joy forever. Look at that.

Bobby does like we release the magic smoke. Yes, it's a brand new cap I Put in and yep PAP cake I Put it in backwards. don't look at that. Isn't that just gorgeous? insert meme here.

Wow, that's just fantastic, but just spewed as guts right out there Oh Well son, yep, dumbass. Dave put it in backwards. There's a positive and there's their negative. The reason I didn't see it is because I was looking at the board from this direction here and I thought that positive was that one I just was not paying attention at all.

So there you go. That explains the hiccup in when we didn't have hiccup him before of course when you had a nice stable power supply Alby it we had a large ripple on the five volt rail and we but all the met all the measurements were spot-on There was no hiccup in at all before and then all of a sudden we were changed. the caps and it's hiccup in that doesn't make sense. power supplies only hiccup like this when they have over current situations.

So yeah, it's obvious this thing within backwards. it was drawing a large amount of current and it was causing this shorting out that rail effectively or loading it more than it's a protection current. and the power supply was hiccuping. He got.

he got hiccup. That's what good power supplies will do when they have over current protection. though they won't just like shut off their winges, blow a fuse, they'll try again and he gets shut er down, try again, etc. And yeah, the magic spark escaped.

Brilliant lucky. I've got another one anyway. Yes, these are one hungar brand low Sr caps I've put in here I Don't recommend you use these for long term, but as you can see it does. The scope now powers up and we got out of trouble.

So except I put it in backwards. Dull. Anyway, I'm going to go in there I'm gonna replace some of the Ex caps as well while I'm at it. There we go.

Got two new X-class caps on there. Nice. So and there you have it. Reefers Reefer Madness.

So yep, yeah, definitely if you've ever find these in gear. I've done a video on this Reefer Madness, just simply replace them. Don't even pair it up with these I was a bit. you know it's a bit gun ho by the way, for those who are wondering about the scorch burn mark around there, there's nothing wrong with that transistor I believe.

Seems fine. it's just that it's got an as some things in the 2465 be getting notoriously hot I'm not sure if this is one of them, but obviously over time it's just browned. the fiberglass browned is that a word charred the fiberglass or whatever. so it if the thing wouldn't work if that was Gonski So yeah, obviously it's okay.

So I'm gonna leave that for now. unless you know specifically that yeah, something going wrong there. Let me know. You can see that we've got a similar thing happening.

A bit of char in here? Yes, I'm going to clean up those joints. Don't worry about that. Yeah, from these diodes. aren't these power diodes obviously getting a bit warm ski and just you know over time just degrading the fiberglass.

That's all nothing to worry about if your diodes are fine. Okay, after that Peb cake, I've replaced all the unrig main rail caps and the reason the unrig ones are going to fail more than the regulation or the output side caps is that the input side caps the unregulated ones are susceptible to more ripple, so therefore they have a harder working life. The internal the ESR is going to cause them to heat up in more internally and they're going to have a shorter life than the output caps. That's how it works in theory.

anyway. so I've replaced those I've replaced the X&Y class caps in this thing, so let's pair it on again. Gemma It's going through. it's going through, it's going through, it's going through.

and Bingo. We have that trace again, but we still have the fuzzy digits that could be caused by. Once again, there could be like an output rail cap or something on that. But yeah, that's a it's a nice bright trace, isn't you know that? So that's pretty sweet.

Nice. actually. Nope. That was just our focus there, that was just our readout focus.

I Was a bit taken aback because the I forgot that it had separate controls for that. And so there you go now. Readout is beautiful. No intensity, fantastic, and it looks like we've got some cursors here.

Sorry about turning the lights off here, but it does actually look a lot better like you can because these little LEDs are a bit a bit wimpy. They always have been on this on these art model tech scopes I've never been a big fan of them. Horizontal Position Control Works Channel 1, Channel 2 Fantastic. I'm really liking it and remember I haven't replaced those caps which look I haven't measured them, but they look to have leaked and spewed their guts out.

Maybe corroded some of the nearby components on the board on the logic board. but hey, it's working. It's working Ok at the moment. Beautiful.

No. I don't recall these if this is normal I don't think so. Look, Press a beat rig and like a whole bunch of a whole bunch of the leads sort of light up. That could be some of that.

those decoupling caps on the logic board might be doing something funny, but it's obviously still operational because it's got it to do. And to put the text on the screen like that, it basically has to be fully operational from a basic point of view. So yeah, it can. Anyone let me know if that's normal Doing like, oh, look at that.

Yeah, no, it can't be. No, there's got to be something else. Something. Yeah.

look, you're pressed. Actually any button looks like any button no said that. Oh yeah, maybe I can just see him flush. Oh listen, others realize Oh aah Bobby Dazzler and this has got 50 ohm input impedance too nice.

I Forgot, we can like turn on. Where's our other stuff? We can turn on the readout intensity, the scale factors Beautiful. Look at that now. I got it all.

Ah yeah, there we go. Whoa. It's a little bit fuzzy. a little bit fuzzy.

but jeez. I'm not gonna complain about that, that's for sure. Yeah, that's what this the readout here. the readout dial.

You can actually get it to go one side and it just shows the cursors. The other side shows the readout and the cursors. So then I'll show you your volts per division. Ah, Wow just kind of power that up again.

it's running through its self-test so the non-volatile Ram I mean isn't I thought that was supposed to like give an error or something, if that. we if that didn't checksum. so maybe there is a little smidgen of battery life still left in that puppy. Anyway, let's feed it a signal.

Well, Channel One seems basically functional. I'm feeding in a one kilohertz, 500 milli volt peak-to-peak 484 millivolts on the cursors. there. You know you're not going to complain about that.

So that's alright. No worries. And we've got 20 megahertz there. 50 millivolt signal.

And yep, no worries. And the same on Channel 2 as well. 20 megahertz signal. 50 millivolts that's working.

Just hunky-dory So very happy with that. That's a 1 volt 20 megahertz? Yep. Beautiful. So there you have it.

I'm gonna call that quits right now for this repair video. It's gone on long enough. This is only part one, of course. I Don't consider this fully repaired or fully refurbished or anything.

I would probably go through on replace if you're properly refurbishing this and you wanted to use it over a long period of time. be confident with it, you'd replace every single electrolytic capacitor in there I Still have no idea about the digital caps on here, what you know function they actually performed if they're Foley haven't even measured them I Do know that they look like they're spewed their guts and by googling. That does seem to be a known issue with other 2465 Czar. Those electrolytic caps on the logic board do actually fail and they corrode away everything.

But as you can see, we've got a fully functional process. It doesn't look like it's lost any of its calibration stuff, so it looks like that Dallas non-volatile Ram is still just hanging in there by the skin of its teeth. Of course, you can't measure the internal battery voltage in there because the battery is actually internal to the SRAM chip it spotted in that big black block on there. But yeah, you would replace that as a matter of course, like a long-term thing, you'd fully recalibrate this and that's a be whole video on its own right, fully testing every function and recalibrating this.

But there you go by. We kind of got a bit lucky on this one just by replacing a few unregulated side electrolytic caps on this, as well as there's some X&Y Class AR Rifa caps, which in this case hadn't failed, but they could spectacularly explode it any at a moment's notice and it it has come. good. There you go.

So same ax so much for scrap and no trace on this thing. Um, it was simple power supply, but looks like somebody's had a shot at this because some of those capacitors had looked like they had been hand soldered and replaced. So yeah. I'm not sure what's going on there, but look at, we're on our way.

This is absolutely terrific. So yeah, I Expected more problems with something like this, and of course I did take the easy way out by simply replacing all of the caps on the unregulated outside inputs without really, you know, like measuring the ripple on all the other rails. I Just replaced them as a matter of course, and it just came good. So we've got a bit lucky that there weren't any other faults.

No faults on the high voltage side of things. I Really expected a lot more fight with this thing in terms of getting it up and running. I Thought maybe for this part, one video, we'd at least get the processor sort of not. You know, at least trying to go through a sequence it up again and trying to get like a Power on error or something like that because in non-volatile rams, god or those capacitors have gone or something like that.

But geez, look at this. This is actually functional. It looks like it's basically functional scope right now. We've got our wire cursors.

we've got our delta time. I Haven't played around with the time yet, but there you go. let's have a look at that. There you go.

50 Odd? No, no seconds. That sounds about right. Pretty happy with that. That's just fantastic times 10 magnification.

It all seems to work. hunky-dory So yeah, pretty done Papi. The new ground on the Channel 2 here seems to have a little bit of a little bit of a little negative wiggle there. I'm not sure what's what's going on there, but the Trace has recently sharp more than good enough and all the readouts work.

Can't believe it. There you go. so something a bit more exciting the cast, but we did get one blow up so that was pretty exciting I guess. Anyway, um yeah, let me know what you want me to do with this thing for a potential Part 2 video.

but for now that's a part 1 of the repair I guess. So if you liked the video, please give it a big thumbs up. And as always, um, that's I'm sure there's plenty of tech experts on the EEV log out for them and they'll tell me all about this. No doubt about it, either on the forum or in the comments down below.

So that's pretty impressive for a 30 watt plus year old scope and it's been sitting just on my mailbag shelf and all it needed was you know, her brand new set of caps by the looks of it. Pretty remarkable. Yeah, anyway. I Q down below about whether or not this is the best analog scope ever made.

uh, some people say also 2467 instead of the 65? Yeah, yeah, yeah. go on, go for it. Catch you next time.