Mrs EEVblog broke the headphone socket on Dave's Sony TV. Soldering iron time.
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Forum:
#Sony #Repair
Bitcoin Donations: 38y7DE8HEHNj8fGDtUr4PkCn9nWxiorvvy
Litecoin: ML7oQokTwB38bgzzjLDbRV97HKAHuwRfHA
Ethereum: 0x11AceA38DCA9DbFfB4F35f3F746af65F9dED28ce
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The 2nd EEVblog Channel: http://www.youtube.com/EEVblog2
Support the EEVblog through Patreon!
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AliExpress Affiliate: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/c2LRpe8g
Buy anything through that link and Dave gets a commission at no cost to you.
Stuff I recommend:
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Hi its TV repair time. Um, this one's actually my home unit. This is my Sony 60 inch 4k. TV and unfortunately, um, the headphones don't work.
What? The headphones work fine, but the headphone jack doesn't because missus Eevblog actually tripped over the lead and of course it's my fault that live and their headphones plugged in, you know? Anyway, she tripped it over and pulled out the did sort of like bent and ripped out the lead from the back of the TV And since that time the the headphone jack in the back of it has just been really deke. It was only coming out of one channel and it was like like a fixed like uni volume. It was just like I don't know. It's like the volume control didn't work.
It was hopeless anyway. so it finally failed. So I'm gonna take this thing apart in situ and try and have a look at replacing that socket now. unfortunately.
um, because it's got one of these stands. It's not like I can just sort of lift this thing off and then just lay it down on the floor I Take the stand off so I won't lay it down on the floor obviously. I'll just leave it. probably just flip it around, leave it up right like that, and just take off the back panel in, sit you in an upright.
That's usually the way you do it anyway, so don't know why you'd do anything else. Anyway, let's go. That's the model number for those playing along at home. Yeah, it's like the bottom of the range Chubby.
One little annoying rant is these sound bars. This is a Yamaha I think it's a Yes 101 or something. Anyway, like why wouldn't you put like a headphone output on there like just whack it on the front panel somewhere. It's just stupid.
Anyway, let's go. I Think the back panel can actually come off without getting these feet. Yep, the the feet are actually attached into the metal chassis there. So I think we're good there.
So let's go. So you didn't want to start straightaway. Don't know what's wrong with it now. I Can see where that little light comes in handy that really deep recesses in.
they're hard to see. So beauty Actually, it is almost as if there's like a split around here just for the back panel. PCB Almost does that come in one time? That would be damn well nice woodland. I Doubt it though.
No, she's all integrated. Wow I Think we're good to go. Missed one and another one. Sneaky little bugger holding on the connectors.
There's a pesky Ah Legacy RCA Jobs think we've got those bloody clips. Ha ha. Two more pesky bastards recessed right under the bottom. Need different screwdriver? for that? You always find some residual plastic from the original package II was right around the front of the stand.
There you go. Alright, now we're talking starting to give I Think it comes from the bottom first. Real tricky business. This might actually be easier.
if it was actually flat. There might be a couple of more clips or something. Yes, bloody clips on here. Why bother if you got all these screws? I Mean, don't understand why you'd bother? Really? Don't understand that. Sure, we can engineer this damn thing to not need the plastic clips. Surely. No. ha.
I think that was the last clip. Was it? Yep. Damn. that's really annoying.
That's really annoying. Ok I can see it. we're in. It's gonna feed that through.
Oh damn. okay. there's a speaker connector. We should have taken that off from the outside.
We could have could a shooter now. I Can't reach in there with both hands. so go on. do it.
one hand. I've got it and wearing like Flynn Beauty? Yeah, those you want to see the back of it. There you go. Just got the speaker's down in there.
Nothing fancy, pantsy, just very typical for these types of speakers. They come down the bottom. They do actually have a setting in the software for whether or not you want them wall mounted or stand mounted like this. It does make a hell of a difference, let me tell you.
Anyway, that was the pesky connector in there, but they did. think about this and it is accessible when you take off the that mains input cover so you can actually get it and disconnect that. So yeah, obviously should have done that. Anyway, there you go for you speaker aficionados.
I've gone to a lot of trouble to mount that very typical flat screen construction. We've got our mains switch mode supply in there. There it is and of course you don't need are the fancy CFL backlighting cuz these are all LED backlighting these days. But let's go caps down there.
wah-wah Anyway, yeah, now that we've got our T-con board down in there, which kit which is the interface to from your processor to your flat panel, they've got their own, you know, failures. You can buy spare T-con boards and then main processor board over here. Just one big heat sink. That's it.
But of course there's multiple devices under there sharing the hang the same man heatsink. so that's our problem. And for you Wi-Fi Aficionados: That's the Wi-Fi board inside. this thing.
and the tuner aficionados is not much in the tuners these days. is there Wow that's even on its own separate board? Look at that little right angle. Oh I Really like that there's a culprit? Yeah. I Can: Yep, wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle Yeah.
I ain't supposed to wiggle like that. so it's just being like it completely. Well at the joints are still I'm sure the joints are still fine, but the you know because they can handle a lot of a fair amount of mechanical force. but yeah like.
but probably all the internal contacts and everything is just yeah. it's cactus. Whoa. that's a ceramic heat sink.
No. are you mininum rubbish. I don't actually know what brand electrolytic snows are anyone know? I have to look up the part. Nobody said oh no, they're stuck down so don't want to rip them up.
Yeah, there's the rest of the board and Rick will sit in put fuse X&Y caps. Look at that and that beautiful. Ah, it's just Bobby Tesla Common-mode chokes. Just fantastic. Custom up there now. Drivers heatsinks can see all of our end. You can see the the isolation. You can notice all the crosshatch in there.
so this is all primary side. This is all secondary side stuff. I've got our Optos Octo Isolators and our DC output filter caps I Can't actually read those filter caps. and as suspected, yep, those solder joints look just fine.
So it's like the actual connector. The internals of the connector have just been physically abused and broken or whatnot. Okay, I was wondering what on earth this thing is look like a weird-ass package and then I looked of course at the location of it. If you said it's a dead giveaway and it's L So L might be a giveaway Ella's inductor of course and it's a surface mount.
The Ethernet transformer sorry so Isolation transformer I think I've seen one of those is really quite neat. Should I think wearing luck, look at that. At the top of that is broken the outside pin. So is that ground I Believe that's ground.
so I it looks like the others are intact. So I maybe it's just that out of connector I Cannery solder that and Bob's your uncle. Perfect job for the portable TSA desoldering iron Beauty Problem with those right angle ones is that they're really ugly to get in there and make look like neat and tidy. Mm-hmm Anyway, it's stuck.
You can see that that's actually the ground pin there. So yep, that'd do it. Nope. only the one channel.
so it looks like that other pin further back is buggered as well, but you can't access that from the outside with the iron. I've tried to heat up from the bottom but doesn't do anything, but the volume works now. Yep, if I put pressure on that connector both channels. no amount of wiggling.
does it. There You go There we go. Got it. But yeah.
Broken pin at the back? Bummer. Now I might be able to heat up that pin from the bottom and feed the solder in from the side. Unfortunately I've only got this one millimeter thick solder. I should carry both types in my kit.
Let that be a lesson to you. I'm a bit I can sort of just flatten it out and then it'll go under hopefully so that might that might work. Beauty Here we go there. we go.
That melted beauty I Think we might have got it? I Got that definitely flowed that refloat. Okay I think you can see there that that really hasn't taken as much as I thought it had. If you have a look at the back side there, you can see that seems to be oh yeah, yeah, that seems to be the connection for the center tap. Sorry, it's hard to get right in there, but you can see that it goes I think it goes up there and then folds back and in and that's what contacts the the tip of that.
So yeah, I reckon I can maybe I could possibly I even try and reheat it again or we'll just scrape off the side of that plastic down there and have a go at that. Then I'll get easy access to it I Mean that's a worth a shot. There you go. you can see once you get that plastic away, you can see that. Yeah, that's completely broken off there. so I should be able to easily join that back now. no worries. put over just some direct solder in there.
or maybe even a bit a tin copper wire or something. Be strong as a Mally's ball. All right, that might look a bit ugly, but yeah, that's strong as I think that'll do the trick. Plug in some headphones, measure one channel 16 ohms and the other Channel haha we know we're not chicken dinner.
that'll work a treat. I can go plug that in now I'm confident that's gonna work and I gave it a bit of wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah in there and oh look at that, it comes off oops. Oh, isn't that nice that? oh, it's a Bobby Dazzler Fantastic. These are actually really nice quality headphones.
by the way. ear buds or whatever. I hate the ones that seal the ones that seal. just annoy the crap out of me.
These are actually very nice. Check out these. These are sex on a stick. They're all glue.
more or something like that. Anyway, look at that. It's like one diecast piece, one die cast alloy piece. Just yeah.
Absolutely beautiful. Love these things. They're very nice. They sound good - yeah.
I don't like the ones that see all like the ones that just sit in my ear. they don't know anyone can stand the ones that seal. Unbelievable. Anyway, very nice.
so take that home and fit that back in. I think that's a winner winner chicken dinner. It's bit ugly. Get a flux on there man.
she'll be right. All right. Sophie Go into Digi-key and do a search for this connector. Um, we want to connectors.
Internet connects. We want Barrel audio connectors. Sometimes it's difficult. You know you might have put 3.5 milimeter phone jack or something like that and you might have a hard time finding these sort things.
You gotta know where to look Anyway, Barrel Audio connectors and I've drilled down to these and we've got through-hole only cuz these are through-hole versions. and if we go look at the images for all these I need a pin down in that bottom left corner. they're not like up the top and if you go through I've looked through this first page. of course these ones have diddly-squat That one doesn't match either and none of them match the one none on the first page anyway match the one that I'm looking for unfortunately Murphy every time.
So I've just got to go through every single page because you can't really drew like two sets of three conductors nine contacts. I could maybe drill it down and based on the number of contacts perhaps. but yeah, sometimes it's just quicker and it could be in the wrong category as I've done a video on. for example. So yeah, it's a good thing this is where like you know, a picture tells a thousand words so you can just search through these and try and find an equivalent. But ya know, like so far of course one of the alternatives would be to like get a salvaged TV or something like that, a salvage board and get one of that. Yeah, you could. If it was really desperate, you could potentially try and retrofit in.
I get say, a surface mount one and you could put in little jumper wires. you could glue it down and hack it in and do all sorts of you know nasty stuff like that. It's possible we've got Diddly-squat if we only got five. rounding of, five pages, this is it all the way.
with LBJ right? - not not, we're done. Looks like digi turkey doesn't have one of these unless I'm you know, like obsolete obsolete less I mean like the wrong category somewhere or you know, like I somehow missing I'll try a bit further, but this may be an oddball job. How many thumbs up? You've only got two thumbs. We fixed it.
Say again. Oh yeah, yeah, it was just a bad contact, Wasn't it? Yes, Yep. just a bad contact down on that right there. Yeah, we broke it.
Yep, it's mommy's fault. See you next time. Catch you next time. Catch you next mama.
Seguin What are you watching? Here is a curiosity show. It's good as that. Yeah, catch you next time.
How about some Bluetooth headphones.
hey ,if anyone else wants to discover
cell phone repair service
try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (do a search on google ) ? Ive heard some amazing things about it and my buddy got great success with it.
Who on earth uses headphones with a TV? The only people I know who do that are the elderly.
The little boy learning from dad!
I've occasionally tripped on my headphone cable (obviously everyone's fault but mine!) Out of concern that I'd damage the headphone jack on my computer I've been using a short extension cable (about a meter long) so it's more likely to just unplug from that cable than damage the jack.
The poor quality of the product sony every day of bad will never end and it will end.
And thank the kid for watching curiosity Show – Rob
My neighbors car remote/key fob died (the button, a tiny four leg SMD jobbie that activates from the side, corroded off the board. He sent his idiot cousin to buy a replacement keyfob, he instead went a bought another of the same model at a scrapyard (different code, one time programable). So I salvaged the button from that, did the repair right in his garage with that $5 8W soldering iron and a powerbank. That was two years ago I think. Recently, it broke again, and I didn't have a matching switch on my scrap pile, so I went to town on it: filed the case to take a nice microswitch salvaged from a CD-ROM drive, what detects if the tray is fully in, and connected that via wires to the pads. The microswitch is encased in the plastic of the fob case, it ain't going nowhere, and no pressure is being transferred to no solderjoints.
Seriously, whoever designed that FOB ought to be shot. The SMD switch could conceivably be activated indirectly and not get the full force of a 200 pound hairless gorilla day in day out, but they could very well gone for larger support pads, say, a large one on the oposite side of the button, rather than just the four anemic legs supporting all the side pressure.
I think those tuners are all that's needed to be changed to make it work anywhere in the world, the rest is software. Sony ships those main boards with no software. If you go to the house to fix one without checking the newest version of android on your usb stick, you'll be downloading for hours. when you load it, the front led blinks orange and green then a slow white for about 30 to 45 minutes until it unpacks the software and loads.
flux it dave :p it will look much better.
Mrs. 'EEVBlog',
so cool ๐
Why not just put it on a table, laying down?
Bodge wires and hot glue^^
Well done admitting it was DEFINITELY your fault, to your wife!
Any other interpretation of the events could meet with a fairly hostile reaction, maybe even the silent treatment!
i got 1 of those trs plugs with the surface mount pins in a satellite tv remote receiver, it was soldered to the board and had a flat antenna looked like a dongle
A breakaway extension to prevent damage in the future?
Cute kid
The scene which youโre holding the jack to make it work, reminds me the 3 channel aluminum foil days of tv reception.
He got it dumpster diving
the Forum link that is usually attached in the description is missing
Wow
Curiosity show ? I used to watch that 35 yrs ago ! Surely Dean and Rob canโt be still making that show ! Wouldnโt it be freaky if they realised tv could actually be educational ! They just need to stop making that reality tv crap and make more educational content . When i was the same age as your son you would have had to blast me with a flame thrower to drive me away from the tv when something like the curiosity show was on !
hmm, lots of through-hole. Who says through-hole is dead.
If I were repairing a TV for someone else, I might've ended up doing what you did, but for my own use no way! I figure if the jack is going to be used and has already demonstrated that it's going to be a weak point, then if it's worth the bother to fix then the weakness should be eliminated.
I "might" go for a panel mount jack, maybe a Neutrik, maybe moving up to 1/4" (or course requiring an adapter but just this move is so much sturdier!), or if I was limited to just parts on-hand and wanted to get it done already, I have some panel mount RCA sockets lying around and would put those on.
Heck, I'd sooner tap into the PSU board to get 5V out of it to power an ebay sourced bluetooth module with the headphone line out as its input, before I'd just leave the same old plastic crap 1/8" headphone socket in it.
I really, really hate crappy little PCB mounted sockets. Those things have been a bane to audio for going on 40 years! Don't get me started about microUSB and microHDMI !!
The line you thought might be a split is probably due to a multi-piece mold, so they can have different port configurations for different regions
Is Sagan an Asian name – I haven't heard it before?
Side note: The engineers behind AKG headphones were all fired and replaced in china. Those guys have gotten together to form a new company called Austrian Audio (not the kangaroo kind). They have some stuff being announced soon, give em a look.