Hi, we're going to take a look at a new temperature controlled soldering station from Weller It's the W II 1010 not to be confused with the WT model or WX or something other models that they've got which a higher price. This is actually a new one which came out a couple of months ago - not much if any fanfare at all really and I believe it's only sold in the North American market at present and I actually got this one from Digi-key and the good thing about it is that it is low cost. It basically undercuts their existing 50 watt model which was the WR E SD 51 and that one's been around a long time which was a 50 watt solder in station and a lot of people liked it and swear by it and all that sort of stuff. Some people don't like it, but this is a new one which is actually cheaper than that.

This one I got this for about I think it was a hundred and eighteen dollars on special, but it's about 120 I think it digitated so hundra dand 30 now a bit. It basically puts it on par with the venerable Hakko Fx-888 inch entry level I and buy a lot of people, but it's 70 watts as opposed to 50. It's a funky new digital readout form for ass. Nice small form-factor so thought we'd take a look at it and compare it to an FX triple ad because I didn't have a D model so I went out and got one.

This is going to be a 240 volt model as opposed to the 110 volt model I have to run it from a transformer, but that won't make any difference because the actual wire 70 watts is not derived from what mains voltage you use, it's derived from the power driver inside the thing. Um, so let's do it. kind of like a little shootout between these two and see what's what I mean. The FX triple ad goes for about a hundred and ten to 120 dollars US dollars depending on where you get it from.

It's obviously can be more expensive in other countries like Australia and things like that, but they're basically let's say they're on par in our price. Oh, look, shrink wrapped for our protection! Both of them come very well packed by the way within the purpose design corrugated boxes, so no worries there now. of course, both Heyco and Wella are two huge industry names been around for a very long time. My first soldering station was a Heyco nine to six and then they graduated to the 936 and then they went to this new funky look FX a triple eight here which I've got here and then the FX triple 8d with the digital readout and well of course I Started with their traditional wire fixed temperature Curie point tip and that actually used the Curie point effect inside the tip.

So you get different temperature chips and to change the temperature you change the tip. but of course I Don't recommend anyone get a fixed temperature soldering station. If you're serious about your electronics at all, you should at a minimum I recommend the FX triple 8d which is you know at that sort of. You know for a hundred and ten bucks you should be, you shouldn't be skimping on your solder and on.

you should at least spend that amount of money on a good temperature controlled station. But of course I've done a video on like a cheap as chips like $25 Hako ripoff Hako 936 ripoff that you can get and it's kind of okay. You know if you're really strapped for cash then that's okay, but if you want the genuine deal then you know pony up like a hundred and ten hundred and twenty bucks for something like this. So basically the Hakko comes with a 65 watt iron and the Weller comes with a 70 watt iron.

so you know I'm gonna call them pretty much equivalent in that respect. But technically the Led Weller does have an extra five watts there. but let's take a look at the case. The Haigo is.

Some people hate it. some people absolutely detest this, but it actually was designed by style by a famous industrial designer. I believe I'll find details on that and put him in. There you go.

It's even got the dudes signature on their design Tasha Looky kit oh I Have no idea. but yeah, it's got somebody's signature so you know bit of prides gone into it and I sort of come to like it I Didn't like the color scheme at first, but look, it's it's small and narrow and tall and doesn't take up much based on your bench and that's what you want. The Weller actually takes up much more footprint, including the stand as a slightly bigger footprint as well, but the Hakko has a fixed power cord on it which I don't like. The Willa has standard IEC power cord on it I think that's technically better, but you pay a price in terms of a bigger unit I Don't really like the color in the Weller I Kind of find it disturbing.

sort of pale awkward type color. Now as far as the connectors are concerned, I mean you shouldn't have to take them off too many times, but if you're moving your iron around I don't know, you might. Your hako has your traditional what is that six pin din there and it feels like a cheap Dicky din connector. I've never liked it.

They've had that since my original iron, the 96 from like 30 years ago. The Weller uses a also a din connector is plastic instead of the metal a shell but at least it has a proper spin lock. It feels better. The hakko just feels you know how you do and it's just sliding around in there.

And the Weller actually there you go. It locks in place. it's still a bit Dicky but it just feels a bit better. Yeah, slight edge to the will.

As for the iron stand itself, the Hakko is the clear winner. And not only does it come with I prefer the sponges with the split in this, but it also comes with your steel wool cleaning stuff and that goes in there. and you can just clean your tip like that. Beautiful.

And it feels solid. You know it feels solid and stable and it's really quite nice. The only downside is that there's really I mean you can put your tips in there. You spare tips in there, but that's you know it's it's not great, but apart from that tip storage, it is absolutely brilliant.

I Like it. The Weller on the other hand is like a throwback to the 1970s. It's got this stupid and you know two part and this just slips in the top with the stupid spring thing. I always hated these.

they're horrible. It just feels feels Dickie it. It doesn't even sit flat. I Don't like it at all.

I Guess the only saving grace is that it's got spaces for your tips here. but that's about it. Clear winner for HECO. All right now, let's have a look at the pencils that come with them.

The Weller has the Wept 70 23 volts at 70 watts and the Hakko is the FX 8800 126 volts at 65 watts. So in terms of nominal power capability, the weather Weller has the edge there. The weather is also cheaper as a replacement iron at. Prices do vary, but I've got say from the same place basically fifty five US dollars and like 70 over seventy dollars replacement for the hakko.

but these things don't fail all that often. but it's good to know they're basically got the same grip length to tip so you know you put your fingers here and the distance is around about the same. I've got to say I prefer the Weller in terms of like that rubber. It's got the ridges around there, it just it feels a bit better.

The hikers always been. It's okay. there's nothing wrong for Hiko. I mean you're still not been using it for a long, long time and it's fine.

but I kind of I think I prefer the Weller. It's a bit thinner as well compared to the hakko. The willow also has a plastic spindle for the tip like this so to actually get it off is it should be easy. I Haven't tried to do it while it's hot, but in theory that should be easier than the all-metal one used on the hakko.

Like this so they basically are clamp exactly the same way like that but the way that the tips attached very different. So if we have a look at the hey go up to the top here. you slide the tip off and you can see the ceramic heating element inside there and you've got to be careful not to hard damage these of course when you take them apart and it's just got the hollow tip which just slides over that and the Weller actually is different. It's once again a hollow tip there, but you can't actually see.

so I don't know the we were just like and that just moves around it there. The well just seems a little bit Dicky I But hey, as long as the performance and reliability is there which remains to be seen then okay anyway it's just different Now as far as the supplied tip goes, the hey goes on top. here. it's supplied with a conical tip and I hate conical tips.

Just don't use these. Get yourself a nice chisel, a couple of different sizes, all points, and the Weller here might look like it has a conical tip as well, but it's actually the Et a series tip which is actually a 1.6 millimeter chisel tip and you might see that if we heat it up and clean it up a bit better. But trust me. so I'm gonna say that the Weller has the better supplied tip.

Now the Weller actually uses the Et series tips and these are also compatible with the WASD 50 I'm the older one, but basically not compatible with any further irons in wellas range that I'm aware of. None of Your higher-end professional ones and your hiko's use the T 18 tip and they're available everywhere. and they're even the hey go is even backward. The latest one is still.

even. although not officially backward compatible with the original 900 M tips which I had you know back in not only the Nine Three Six iron, but the Nine Two six going back like thirty years, they still work. They still kept the same tips so, but the TA Dean's do work and their performance is are better in the latest iron, so you should be using the T 18 tips. It doesn't matter which I you've got.

Do not buy them on eBay Do not because you'll get the fake ones and buy them from a reputable official Weller or Hako supplier. There's nothing worse than crap quality. One hand, you know, imitation tips made in Mexico versus made in Japan. All the best stuffs made in Japan and in terms of like economics using of course the Weller one is actually longer but thinner.

The Weller one has a much better feeling I could fondle that all day. Much better than the hakko when there's nothing wrong with the hakko. It's just that the Willer with its rubber up here and it's nice strain relief at the end just feels like a better quality I am NOT by a huge amount. But anyway, um, and they're both about a similar sort of weight, but the longer Weller actually could maybe get in the way a bit more I don't know I don't really like this hugely long ones but I have not used this in anger yet and I think the Weller has a thinner sort of lighter, more flexible cable on it than the hiko's it's it's still, you know, a nice and flexible, but it's just a little bit thicker and I don't know.

it feels feels like the Weller doesn't get in the way as much, but there's not much in it. and I think both of them have pretty much a similar center of gravity just over where you actually grip the thing, which is probably it's hard to tell with the cable, but it's probably where you want it yet. Both of them a fairly were equally balanced I'd say although I could imagine some people preferring that longer Weller I and it just gets the cable out of the way like further away from the job at hand than the hakko which tends to like just flop right down at the end like that whereas the well I just aid goes out a bit further. So if you don't like your cables in the way, the well is probably a better choice C and the hakko is made in Malaysia designed in Japan Of course they're a Japanese company and the Weller is made in Mexico designed and engineered in Germany Hi to all my German viewers and both of them do actually have the earth to tip.

so yeah, just like don't solder live stuff. they're both the same so that's what you expect. Awesome! By far the best part of a new soldering iron. Oh you get a brand new sponge.

Oh yeah baby, look at that. Ah, watch that all day. You just don't get the same excitement from the heck. Oh sorry.

hmm. Alright let's pair up both irons for the first time. I Don't like the hey go switch on the side of it's always kind of bugged me. so anyway let's switch them both on.

much bigger road to sleep at. Dopey with some people. like the lead display that there we go. we're heating up.

we're heating up. don't know what it's heating up to that's got 7:20 our bloody Fahrenheit garbage anyway sorry they're not equal in terms of we've got Celsius vs. Fahrenheit whatever it's set to I think they take well the new tip the new tip smelt whoo Yeah, come on. I think the yeah, the hakko is already at 350 Celsius and the hakko it looks like well he goes the winner.

So the 350 Celsius is equivalent to 662 Fahrenheit on here and just replaying the footage there it does It was two maybe three seconds quicker. The hakko so slight edge there according of course to the temperature on here, but these are both quality ions. I'm sure they sense the temperature very well. that's their job.

Now after heating up and cleaning that you can hopefully see the chisel tip on the Weller it's a 1.6 millimeter. As far as changing the temperature goes, very obvious. on the Weller it's got an up/down button. There we go.

Oh that velocity is really probably faster. anyway. 660 - there you go. So you saw that there was a little bit of a time out there before it actually went to the back to the sensitive display.

I Don't know why they couldn't have used. They kept the temperature up there and and adjusted the one down here. I would I would have kept that sense in up the on the primary display there. Anyway, they've decided not to.

let's see if we turn it off. Does it go back to 662 or do you have to store it? Let's have a look. Yes it does nice. So without reading the manual, I'm going to press the Menu button here and see what we can do to men.

I Would say that's the auto standby. Yes, it goes into standby to save your tip. Of course if you leave it running at that temperature all the time, you know if you're not using the thing, but then how does it determine there's there's no sensor on the iron itself. so I don't know.

Maybe at eight senses the temperature drop by. You know because as soon as you do a solder joint, it's going to do that. I'm just going to leave it see if it times out. As far as the manuals go, this is the Weller one here.

and that's for the We1, the Web 70, and the pH 70 and Worldlets. that's it. Like that, and the specs, that's it. I mean everything else is the other language.

and if we have a look at the high coat, the hakko is even though it's just like that single sheet like this I Like that? it doesn't. You know it's just another language on the back. No, this much more comprehensive initial setup, all that sort of stuff, changing the set temperature, how to do all that kind of stuff, and the performing temperature adjustment, restriction on setting changes, password function, maintenance troubleshooting, guide, tips, tiles, you get nothing of that. The Willer does actually have a pictorial thing and they've got the edge scanning.

the barcodes okay, that's a bit jazzy, but they got the wanky little diagrams or must be set back fifty millimeters from the back of the bench. tick and plug it in. Et series, tips, et phone home, but that's basically it. So menu goes: stand by offset Fahrenheit Celsius and lock because you want to.

Sometimes you want to lock the temperature, but most people wouldn't. And yep, there we go to my I'm not sure when it started us too busy recording the other thing, but yeah, after sure enough, after the two minutes, it's gone into sleep mode and it's going down I don't know what it goes down to, but of course you can set that time two minutes. That's ridiculous. but you can set that up to 99 minutes.

So if I take that out the stand of course it's still going. It's still going so like there's basically nothing I can basically nothing I can do the start that again like that's just alright. Here we go. No, it's coming back up.

It's obvious we sensed something I don't know I Jeez, that's not great is it so yeah Because these aren't like you know three or five second head up irons like your professional your JB C's and your paces and your met cows and all those you know like really you know high-end $500,000 irons I don't heat up in cup seconds you can't This like para function is great. like if you forget it like overnight you leave it on and then you know which is fine but not for like just general daily operation and stuff like that. See, you're better off sitting. do that to either off if you can or ninety nine minutes.

Anyway, let's change that to Celsius because well that's nice. Let's change all the way with LBJ Ninety nine. Can you actually set it? Yep, there we go. Turn it off now I've set it to 99 minutes.

99 s decent. Alright there we go I Assume we can go like that. Yep, so offset. Maybe that's a calibration.

that must be calibration. There you go. So degrees Celsius Lock Oh woot. So it's a good thing this menu system is relatively easy because, well, haven't figured it all out yet.

but because it's not in the manual. So there you go, like and you saw when we pair up. it's actually got three presets there, but it looks like, um, well, I don't know how you would do You just hold it down like, no, no, that's the timeout offset All right. You can't just hold it down like that.

Hmm I don't think it's got any presets. So let's put the Willer on the sponge test. Here we go and we should see that temperature drop there. We go very substantially.

This is what aliens do, of course. I've only only got so much thermal mass Wow that's going ridiculously low is it? So this is the I Do like the update rate on that, but that's just nuts. All right, that's going all the way down to like 140 degrees Wow That's crazy. It's gonna take all the way.

It's gonna take a long time to get back up there to tour. Do your thumbs. It's terrible. Muriel All right, let's do the same test with the hakko and to be consistent, I'll just use the same sponge here and we should get our live update.

Come on. Wow Stay in there. It stayed there a lot longer, didn't it? There you go. The hakko is holding up a lot better.

definitely now whether or not that's it. Well, as I said, these are both professional ions. I'm sure the temperature sent in is very decent on these on the tip, but this is holding up much better if I simply keep that on there and boil in the sponge water. It's like it's dropped down to say to 230 ish.

but the Weller dropped down much further than that and it doesn't quick it and it drops quicker too. So that indicates that the Weller at least by this test, doesn't have the same thermal capacity. Wow It's terrible. Like leave it on there and it's 100 140 ish.

Know when it's gonna be the hakko out of that. All right Now it's time to see if we can burn the lead on this thing. Not nice. 350.

Suffice that? just fine. Brilliant. Let's try the hakko. Both have burn proof leads, no worries.

Oh, and just in case your soldering iron, firmware locks up, hold both buttons and power up, and it resets factory defaults. That doesn't instill a lot of confidence in me. so they basically were no operational instructions in the Weller manual. so I scanned in the barcode took me over to folder de German and I had to go to operating instructions here and we can finally, which is okay.

I'll get no problems with not having a manual in the box. that's fine and we're in like Flynn but unfortunately it's exactly the same manual as the one that's printed out. It doesn't explain like what offset or how the lock works or anything like that. That's just it's just hopeless.

It goes just doesn't have proper operating instructions. So how do you adjust the temperature on the hakko? It's only got an up key and an in. Turkey I Didn't like it. Just go here like this and it does nothing.

It's infuriating. So you hold down in turn like that and you can adjust the digits. You can't go up and down. That is infuriating.

Unbelievable. We can. They put another button on there for goodness sake. Yeah, they've got the nice funky design.

They didn't hire a designer for the bloody user interface. Did they hopeless? Ok, I'm going to see how long it takes for the irons to go from 350 to 450 so we'll go. Ready Steady Go 450. Come on, you can do it.

Ah, where's the well? It doesn't show us? Yes, it does. There we go. Nah. I Think Oh is gonna win.

Yep, transition in a hundred degrees wins by a good oh jeez, slows a wet week. The Weller that's won by a good 10 12 seconds. Isn't it crazy? No contest sir. So let's actually try that again, but set it to a lower temperature 250 this time and we'll do it simultaneously.

I Think the sponge test is actually quite. You know it's got uniform moisture across there and I think it's quite. a decent, quite a decent test. The Weller dropped first and the well is dropping down to look at that, whereas the hey guys holding in there, it's only dropped by 10 degrees 12 degrees.

No contest. Hey guys, the winner goats still climbing up So much for your extra 5 watts inside. The Science: 70 watts compared to 65. It's all about the dog.

that's the hot end. Don't touch. It's all about the design of a ceramic heater element and how it conducts the heat through it, and the tip design and everything else. And you know it's quite a lot of engineering, which goes into a decent soldering iron pencil and tip design, mind you.

I Set out to find if the hakko actually has a factory reset and it actually does. It's not mentioned in the manual, but here's how you do it: Hold down both buttons, pair on and up and you and you is factory reset. and now it's actually set it back to Fahrenheit as you saw 750. Fahrenheit Whereas out of the box this one was set to Celsius wasn't it? Yes, it was.

How do we change it back? Actually, the manual I've got doesn't seem to have the Celsius Fahrenheit like settings in there, but I Got another manual online and sure enough, you hold down the UP button in there and we're in like Flynn and it is setting. Oh one. two change from Fahrenheit to Celsius. Alright, so we want to select one and F or C C Thank you very much.

Oh, we done. surely wait on. come on, get us here. What's why? Shh Yes, there we go, we're out.

We're back to a much more sensible Celsius Now that Fahrenheit rubbish and I've been trying to test the temperature of this tip but using my knockoff Hako temperature sensor. But even with solder on that tip, the best I can get is to 6. I think I got to 70 before. Hmm.

but the hakko is pretty good 8 degrees. I'm pretty happy with that. So what's up with the Weller Hmm. try that again.

We've got solder on the tip so it should get good thermal transfer, but that's saying it's like 270. That's way out. Okay, let's use a better thermometer here. Let's got the fluke.

Here we go. Oh geez, feel that what a Bobby Dazzler Alright, I can't go much higher than that. The thermocouples are not rated for it, but Jase that's practice. Bang on.

Let's try the same with the Weller No, once again, it's consistently low. It's like 20 degrees low. Wow Um, I didn't play with that offset did I So I'm actually gonna try and fix that. I mean geez, I shouldn't have to, but let's go like plus 20 on that.

How do I sleep? Can I just select it like that? Is that it? Okay, let's give it a go now. Yeah, there we go I fixed it I Get to calibrate the Wah wah. Unbelievable. And the Hakko actually has the same functionality you can actually hold in terms of offset.

you can adjust. you can go into adjust there I won't do it, but you can adjust the temperature I've said it's basically got the same capability of the Weller but the Hakko does actually have presets as well. So if you want to do your presets, you can actually go into the preset mode. Here you've got to go up to obviously 11 and go from 0 which is normal mode to 1 mode which is preset.

So by default it comes with 5 factory presets from a 300 to 700. Fahrenheit it's all in Fahrenheit Rubbish. So we go to we simply press up and that will give us will allow us to choose our preset selection like this. So if we go to P1 OOP there we go.

316 so it's going to go back down. So that actually makes up for the crap user interface really not being able to just tweak the temperature. At least you got 5 presets. you know you can set one.

Okay, this is for my normal you know, low thermal mass. You know through whole paths or something like that. Next one might be you know some like larger thermal mass heat sinks or through-hole boards or you know, something like that so you can just easily swap between them. It's not too bad.

It's better than Wella which seems to have none even though it's got the three displays. Therefore, it no. This Willer is supposed to have an easy to change tip. Um, so I just turned it off.

Oh yeah. Oh yeah, trust me, it's still hot. And can we have a look. I've taken the paint taking the paint off it.

Don't don't put your hot tips in this crap soldering iron stand. Oh, you're that? No. I can smell it too. garbage.

All right. So much for that. Maybe if I tip it, but I don't know if I put pressure on it? No, but hey, it's least it's better than the Heike which you have to get off like that. but once once you do, then the tips generally just fall off though, but some are a bit tighter.

Depends Okay, what I'm going to do is set both of them to 300 Celsius because it's a nice round number. I've got the same tip on each one, which is a 3.2 millimeter chisel. The hakko one looks a bit wider, but they both claim to be three point two millimeters and we're just gonna heat up identical pads on this board with a ground plane and see which one wins. Alright, so got both irons or left-handed iron.

Feels weird I've got solder on the bottom of both of them. I'm just gonna welcome on here and see. Ah, they're both fine and dandy. they're heating up the pad I'd say pretty equally and they're not getting stuck.

In fact, the Weller hasn't actually yeah, hasn't dropped. The temperature on both of them is 300, trust me. fun. The will err a bit disturbing every time.

I go to clean it on the sponge it like it can just drop significantly. Yeah, I didn't Probably did it a bit too long there, but still like I don't know, just takes too long to recover. It's a bit disturbing. Anyway, I've set both of them to 270 and we will try that again.

But okay, here we go. Whoo smoking. Okay, just see if we can heat up that pet again at 270. Yeah, the hey guys doing it just ah, the well is just I I would call that gonna call that maybe even I don't know, it's hard or maybe it's the will of working a bit better, you know.

And yes, I'm using lead-free solder here. By the way, the Weller is doing it a little bit better at 270. Let's try it again. I'm gonna swap them around just ya know, maybe this one's a bit.

Maybe they're not symmetrical pads. Anyway, there's not much in it. Okay, let's try both of them on a bit of copper clad board so I'll just put down some flux there cuz our board is pretty crap. although it's fairly equally clean.

So let's try the hakko at 300, shall we? This is lead-free rubbish, so let's go see what she can do. Oh yeah, yeah, it's doing that. Okay, no problems, it's 300. Excellent.

Let's try the exact same thing with the Willer at 300 And here we go. Camera. Ah not. it's not gonna spread.

It's not gonna spread as spread as well. Ah, okay. in the end, I Think maybe the Hakko might have just had the edge there, but there's not a huge amount in it. They can both do well.

Ground planes at 300? Okay, let's put it back to 280. The board is cooled down so let's see if the Hakko can do a ground plane. Come on. come on.

Nah nah. But you wouldn't expect it to really know it's it's struggling. It's struggling. Do the same struggle with the willow.

Shall we? Here we go? 280? Nah, Nah. Not gonna do it so one is not spectacularly better. I Don't know. Maybe maybe.

Is it a bit better? Not sure. Oh yeah, maybe look at that good that how I will err at 218, you'll notice that the temperatures not dropping either on the display. Let me try that again with the hiko. Maybe I just didn't leave the Hakko there long enough.

No, there we there we go. Hang on. Put enough heat into it to start moving around. Yeah, yeah, okay, no.

they're probably equal I wouldn't I wouldn't want to call that. So I think I'll call the solder in quits say that's really wanted I Wanted to test is the thermal performance and the Hakko actually published their thermal drops. They've actually are qualified how much the tip temperature are drops and all that sort of stuff. If I can find a similar sort of data for the Weller then all included in the edit, But but the Hakko famously do that for their for this particular ions.

So and compare it with the original model, showing that this one has a bit of better thermal recovery And but there's no point doing other types of fine solder and all that sort of stuff. I've had a play around and they're both probably equally balanced. The feel of both of them don't really have a huge preference. I Guess the rubber on the Weller feels a bit better than the plant sort of.

the whatever that, it's kind of rubbery, but it's not. It's not the same sexy feel as the Weller. But anyway, there you go. that is the Hakko Fx-888 Can you of probably only available in North America at the moment.

hence the N/a on the end of the part number stands for North America but they're basically the same price. In fact, I Found this one on special for a hundred and five US dollars. And it's you can get the Hakko for just under a hundred and ten US dollars depending on where you look around and really, there's probably not a huge amount in it. I mean I Find it a bit disturbing how the temperature of this thing drops I mean the the high code heats up faster and this thing seems based on what the sponge test, another couple of out and the ramp up test for a hundred degrees the Well: It doesn't seem to have as good a capacity as the Hiko, but when you actually put it on the energy through the tip the heat through the tip onto a ground plane, they have pretty much equal in performance or seem to be so it's not a huge amount in it.

Now in terms of the range of tips, they both have an excellent range of tips available. I'll try and get some prices and put them up on the tips which one will last longer I don't know everyone's got their own opinion. everyone says hey, code tips are hey, code tips are great. Well the tips of well the tips are great so in like six one half a dozen of the other look to pick a winner out of this.

It's really hard. the Weller I like much prefer the adjust the up/down user interface on this thing and I love the it's more sense to be more instant live readout. The hakko might actually even have a leg on there cuz look it just doesn't do anything until like it's sort of you know hits a mode there where it sort of goes down. But anyway, the hakko might have a bit more thermal capacity I Don't know, but in that some real-world testing that I've done here, it doesn't seem to make a difference I Much prefer the Weller From a just a stand point point of view, the stand is better.

There's absolutely no doubt about that. The well is really kind of a bit. Dicky So in that respect, I'd probably maybe have the Hakko. It does have the presets, but the user interface for just in the temperature up and down if you just want to tweak it a little bit is more of a pain in the ass.

The well is better in that respect so, but it takes up more bench space and it's just and the stand feels a bit Dicky but the iron's better so I don't know I Can't call the winner on this. It's probably going to come down to personal preference I Don't think you can go wrong with either one of these, Indeed, this new Weller is certainly not a hay. Kokila It's the same price range. It's obviously shooting for the same target market, but it doesn't kill it by any stretch and a quick teardown of both of them.

We've looked inside the analog version of the hakko before, but we'll just have a look inside the digital one. A Very neat and tidy. Of course this is only this is the 240 volt version. Both of them are single mains voltage only so don't buy the wrong one.

Don't buy one from a foreign market. If it's not the correct one, you have to buy your local 220 volt versions or a hundred and ten volt version. Take your pick. So this is the 240 volt.

looks. you know I won't go into detail, but that looks, you know, really quite well built. transformer. looks good.

quality wiring. all the ER things good. No workers whatsoever. Let's have a look inside happen.

Kind of two piece and once again, we've got the earth down there. No problems whatsoever. It's all kind of exposed are you doing? Oh, look okay. inline fuse.

it's here. But anyway, that's a big-ass bloody. Probably switch in it and there's the front side of the Weller For those playing logger, Geez, they've gone to town on the membrane button contacts. their processor must be under there.

It's all neat and tidy. They've just got, you know, nice little custom wrap around heatsink? They're no problem. They're both equally good. Build quality, no worries.

But I Must say the Hakko is built more like a brick. Danny If you're looking for an iron that you know it feels like you can drop it, you know, drag it off the bench, drop it on the ground, and probably survive. The Hakko is the winner. The Weller feels with its plastic sort of like there's There's no screws.

there's just two screws holding it in the back so it had just explode. if you if it fell off the bench. I think I'm gonna do a drop test, but yeah, it's just this one's built like a brick. Danny this one's it just feels it's not nearly as robust and it's actually kind of hard to convey how like sturdy this one feels.

once it's all together, it might look a bit silly, you know, with the design of it, but it really wants us together. It really feels nice and solid. So I know it's a bit disappointed, but sorry I'm not gonna call a winner on that one. They're both gonna do a decent job for the price.

They're both good entry-level irons, although once again, I've been using the Heco's for like 30 years. The 926, the 936 and the FX are triple eight. This is the first time I've had the Triple 8d, but it's basically exactly the same, but with the digital control. Actually prefer the analog version.

but I don't even think they sell the analog version. the FX Triple Eight I think you can only buy the Triple 8d. Yeah, the analogue ones just fine with the knob. you know, give me a knob.

but anyway, yeah, they're both decent ions. So anyway, I'm sure everyone will have their own opinion and if you want to discuss it, comments down below. Evie blog forum: down below all the fanboys will come out no doubt. But yeah, for like a hundred and just over a hundred bucks, they're pretty good value.

So if you like that video, please give it a big thumbs up. And yes, I will try and maybe get some others in the same price bracket there may I think there's a quick one which might even be cheaper. so I wouldn't mind trying that one out as well. But yeah I'm not gonna stop using my triple 8d but this one's alright to catch you next time.