Hi guys, just quick nighttime dumpster-dive Look what? I Scored! Look at this. it is a Samsung flat-screen TV Have a school. one of these quick or anyone sees. Let's get it back up to the lab.

Check it out. What a Bobby Dazzler Look at this. I've never found an LCD this big in the dumpster before as you've seen previously. I've found a couple of plasma TVs Because well, in a plasma TVs they go to the plasma graveyard.

they die pretty early. They get really hot. they're really really heavy. like the last one was like 50 kilos.

This one. it's beauty. Look at that. Unbelievable.

Samsung 46 inch LCD TV Sure 2009 vintage so it is out about six years old or there abouts while the model is I Don't know when it was actually manufactured but the model comes from about 2009 but still nice, thin, sexy huh? LCD that whoo, what a ripper and let's pair it up. see if it works I Doubt it because nobody's going to throw out a beautiful glass surround. sort of. You know, this must have been like state of the art at the time 2009 people.

anyone would happily have this in their home now? No, pretty much no. no. No matter how picky they are, so it's you know it's fantastic. So odds are it's probably not going to work I only give it like 10% chance of working I Reckon so.

fingers crossed. and there's the model number for those playing along at home. 170 What's um, well, you know that's nominal, whatever it is, so you know it's not a huge power hog like the plasma. TVs are one of the most interesting things though.

Is this on the back? Check it out. It's I've taken the panel off here. it just starts screwed in. It doesn't have your standard IEC power connector.

It's somebody's gone and chopped the wires off it. Somebody's actually stripped them to like they haven't just gone chopped. They've actually cut into a and strip these two wires. This is basically exactly how I found it.

So has somebody maybe like powered it up down at the dumpster or wherever and they've you know when? I it still doesn't work. Okay, we'll toss it. So yeah. I You know that likelihood of actually working straight off the bat? very very low.

but I've never seen that before that's held in with clips and a day actually goes straight onto the power supply. PCB inside here. Never ever seen that. I mean I don't know what the deal is with a fixed power cord.

Jeez, Haven't seen that sense of days of like, you know CRTC Tvs and even that's about six-year old models still got a full complement. Four HDMI Inputs has got PC input as well. It apparently has a digital tuner built in beauty not one of those crusty old analog ones. It's got optical USB and there's a little large service port up the top there as well.

but unfortunately I couldn't find any remote for it Pro dumpster-diving Tip: if you find a TV like this or any bit of AV gear in the dumpster, then have a good look around for the remote control because people will typically toss out the remote control with it. Wasn't that lucky this time. Sorry about the exposure on this video. It's really hard to get good video and you got like a mostly solid black object like this.

The first thing I'm going to do is just measure these. make sure nothing's are a dead short. So there we go. 200 and I won't touch it.

There we go. What is it yet? Well, it's open so that was my fingers. There's actually I think this might be an ideal opportunity to use these inventables solder sleeves that I got. They sent this into the mailbag last time, actually forgot to mention them up.

sorry about that. so thanks for sending these in. What they are is little I'll show the big one the huge one. They're little heat shrink sleeves, but they've got a ring of solder in the middle like that so you just put your wires in there and your heat shrink the whole thing down and Bingo! It actually solders them as well as he drinks them and insulates them.

So I've got four different sizes in here. right down to these real tiny ones. I Think maybe needs something in the middle. This should do the business for those Maine's warrants.

Oh yeah, let's give it a bill and uh, perfect for this sort of thing where we've got a chopped off mains cord that's are fixed into the thing and we need to rejoin it. All right. I haven't actually checked I don't know what temperature these things melt out. could have a low temperature solder in there.

but I'll set my heat gun to 200 and let's have a look here we go. Come on. oh boy. I fell out.

hold the wire. all right. let's try that again. So this is 200.

Of course the heat shrink is, uh, shrinking. but it's all about the solder. No, that's not gonna do the business. Gonna have to up it.

actually. just check the website and it doesn't actually give you a temperature on there that I could find anyway. I've upped it to 250 and by the way, those little red rings in there. they're actually our glue so it actually insulates solders and also waterproofs in the one operation so that's pretty groovy.

Anyway, now got it to 250? Come on, you can do it. You can solder. Oh come on. still doesn't like it.

280. Now come on, you've got a milled on me. Don't isn't real quick as you see. Use a nine now.

I'm sure you're going to get used to it once you get used to it. Probably work a treat. but okay. 315 A pretty concentrated nozzle on this thing that's still not melting and taking to the wires.

I Know the heat has to get through the plastic, but geez, here we go. I Think no I think it smelled on one of the wires. Me: it's melted I think we're getting close. This is taking forever.

It's just not wicking up that second wire now. I thought pretty sure it's done now like I expected it to like a wick right up the wires. So okay, even though they don't tell you to do this. Um, I've actually crimped this second one a little bit and we'll see what happens here.

we go. just so it's like making contact, it's actually touching first so that the solders physically touching the wires rather than you know it could just be sitting loosey-goosey inside there. and uh, gone. I'm still at 300.

Okay, here we go. Three thirty now. see, it's just not wicking up those wires at all. This is getting rather frustrating.

Hey, third time lucky. Maybe I've set it to like 380 Now in fact, the temperature 385. sorry. And there we go.

Yeah, I got some half reasonable flow on the others, but you know, like does this thing have flux? There we go. it's flowing flowing. It's like yeah, you can see it wicking. Now that's what you want to see.

You want to see it wick in and there we go, forming some big blob Now Beauty Happy with that, we in for a change. So I'm not the least bit impressed by those at all. It's almost as if like this solder doesn't contain any proper flux in it that you know you can clean the wires and intake. So I don't know what the deal is they're supposed to be.

It actually says on the page they're actually low temperature and low melting point solder but geez like to send up so far and I had to take so long to melt these damn things and it didn't even do a nice good job. So I don't know more experimentation required. Verdicts still out on those. Okay, here we go.

The Moment of Truth Perotin: I've measured the Pens I Can just see a little bit of flicker on the Ohms range as it charges up the suppression caps in there. so there's something at least. so let's give it a bell. Here we go.

Nothing. Nothing is supposed to be the controls down here. Oh here we go. There's the power button.

Oh hey, it's flushing. Okay oh holy crap. it wouldn't do that noise. You heard it, it wouldn't Now the leads not flushing anymore.

It wouldn't do that noise unless it that's come our check video. Are you kidding me? Wow. we have a winner. Beauty What a Bobby There's La we have a winner.

Although something's looks very. no, it doesn't look that great. Sorry about the glare on the screen. It's practically like a mirror screen.

check signal cable: Mm-hmm but it's the process is working, the screens working, but there seems to be some lines in here. It doesn't look fantastic I hope it's not the panel. My hope was that if it was failed it, it'd just be the caps of course. but not now.

Oh look, we've got some ghosts in. something else is weird. something else weird. Oh no, it came good and then it ghosted.

That's weird. that's weird. Anyway, I was hoping to just be some dried out caps in the power supply of course. um see there it is.

say you can see that so maybe like it could still be that, but the all the digital stuffs still working so that is. that is a weird fault. Wow and if I get my polarizing filter on this thing I can actually make the screen disappear. look at that.

That's me. I'm just in my polarizing ring in there and I can actually make if I get it exactly the same angle course with the LCD polarization in there. BAM the screen disappears and it comes back neat. but it doesn't get rid of the glare unfortunately.

Bingo. There we go. Oh look at that. I just turn the brightness up and ah, look at all this.

so damn is it the panel as hoping to just be a simple dried-out cap power supply, but I don't like it still. let's take it apart, see if there's anything obvious I mean you know it could still be something to do with the power supply which is then upsetting some of the vertical drivers like you know, the column drivers or whatever. but I don't know. that looks pretty awful.

No, all right, let's crack it open and see what's what. All right? I think I got most of the screws out. Let's see what we can do. There is one over here that seems to be your threaded or something so I'm not sure.

Not sure what the go is. there might have to I take this off and just put a bit of force on that Monday at the same time excuse me I need like four hands? Here we go. I Finally got the stripped screw out and tada we are in like Flynn Beauty Now if we have a look at the main power supply board here, you can see how completely different it is to plasma. TV Technology You know, Having the plasma, we saw massive boards in there.

multiple ones. The high voltage driver for the plasma section and all the digital stuff had really big like high caps on the thing. big monster ones. There's basically not much of that here at all.

And here's where our mains end is down there. That's that connector that we saw on the back before with the wire going in. It's got its got fuse protection that's a HRC type down there. We've got some more protection here.

We've got our requisite suppression caps. We've got our common mode chokes here, so that's all nice. We've got our high voltage mains input caps I can actually zoom into that. There we go.

That shows you a bit more detail. Look at that. We've got these. these radial ones just bent on the side.

There's a cutout in the board in there. They do that to get the extra low profile. If they actually just laid these flat on the board, it would be this TV would be too thick and that's what they're trying to do. They're trying to get a real slimline design here, so they've had to put a cutout in the board under there to fit those caps in.

Brilliant. Another brilliant thing. Look. They've got these relays in here.

They had to use fairly big-ass relays here, but they actually to get the profile that they wanted, they actually mounted them on right-angle boards. Look at that. Brilliant. So that's how they get the profile right down and everything else.

This transformer over here here we go. Here's the main switching transformer look. That's once again a cutout in there, and the thing is really embedded. right down under the board.

there's an insulating looks like there's an insulating sleeve down on the bottom there. and by the way, on top of this whole board here on the backside of the case of a big insulating sheet. because the metal. the back metal plate actually comes down and almost practically touches all of this.

So it's got to have a big insulating sheet on it just so he don't short anything out to the case. We're good. another transformer under there as well that's got a plate on top. Is that for some shielding? Or maybe to get some heat out to the back panel? perhaps? not entirely sure.

Anyway, that's got an insulator on it as well and these are our output type power transistors. So this is all of our primary side over here and then our secondary side over this. Please excuse I'm not getting the best angle here to actually shoot all this and the best light and everything else. it's just not working that great.

This thing's so Huge. I've got the thing upside down and I anyway, hard to fit on the bench here and these are our output filter caps. Oh look, there's not many of them. They're not that big because this does not require a lot of power at all, so let's take a closer look at those.

Yeah! Sammy Young There we go. Not exactly the best 105 degrees C rated though, but jeez yeah, there's no nice Nippon Chemi-con or Panasonic's in here. But the good or bad news I Guess because it would have been an easy fix is that there's no bulges in the end of these caps. I won't show you all, but there's no bulges.

There's no leaks. Nothing saying with the 450 volt mains input caps as well, so Nothing obvious there at all. Damnit, You might be wondering what this section here is. or you might have thought initially if you're not too familiar with modern LED TVs that this is a CFL driver a cold cathode driver for the backlight.

But it's not. These are our low voltage LED Drivers: There's actually six separate channels here. There's six pairs coming out and wires going down in the case. These are actually because this is a LED backlight TV and which was probably state-of-the-art back in 2009.

So they're all on the low side here. You can tell by this big divider here. and then we've got a suppression cap between the primary and secondary here. So this is all low voltage stuff.

low voltage LED Drivers There we go. Got ourselves a couple of transistors in there, and that's just a constant current six channel constant current driver for the LED backlight. I Don't know, You know, it might be like an amp a pop or something. who knows.

And this other heatsink down here if you didn't notice the big full leads on there. Well, that's obviously a diode pack. Once again, that's our bridge rectifier. So our input, our mains input comes up straight through here, through the fusing and the protection.

Common mode chokes for the filtering, then it's wrecked and then it goes through the rectifier and then filter on the output. Here is that a big-ass common mode choke in there anyway, Recessed into the board right again. Really gone to town getting this high profile down this other heat seemed. Just got some mutt switching transistors and these ones over here as well.

Now we've got two speakers on the back here. The reason it's this big? this is just like a big like acoustic port just to get the extra low-frequency bass performance. Then we've got ourselves the main digital board. Nothing doing here, but we do have some rather unusual looking heat sinks are stuck on the top that would be using thermal adhesive on there.

But yeah, there's not much. It's all basically just one huge single chip solution with you know that's a that's a real Tecar Ethernet interface by the looks of it. We got our digital tuner over, nothing much happening, all got our HDMI driver chip. Nothing really doing on there whatsoever as I've sent typical and I've showed before.

It's got a dip SMD arrow here to show you that the board travels through the solder wave that way. So any through-hole stuff like this module down here and you know, maybe a connector or two or something through-hole is just pass through the wave soldering process. So that's just a an arrow for the production people just to tell them which way it goes through. and we got ourselves a secret squirrel switch in there.

Don't know what that's doing. Is that some sort of secret squirrel reset? Hmm. so there's virtually a zero percent chance there been anything wrong with this board because you've got the main main nut processor under here and if that wasn't working, you wouldn't get any of your menu stuff or anything like that. Nothing at all to do with that what we're seeing here, but we do care about the output where it goes.

it's flat flex going over here, down to a high. Our LCD panel driver, which looks like a quite a substantial board under here. So if there's going to be any failure in the column drivers or whatever like out like we saw, then it's most likely to be under here if it's not a power supply art related issue here. But it's fairly easy just to measure the ripple on the output of the power supply.

See: huge, big custom. it was that wise view ASIC Never heard of them I Don't know what that one is Anyway, this is the memory for this chipset here, obviously. and there's actually some what looks like some heatsink blocks on the back which actually went down and actually pressed onto these chips. You might be able to see some that some, yeah, a little bit of grease in there, a bit of thermal grease.

Maybe there's not much on that one. but yeah, there's a block in there for these two memory chips and a blocking there for that. Curiously, there's not a heatsink block for this one though. there's that chipset for those playing along at home and the other one over here.

I Don't know what that one is either. Yep, there we go. Samsung branded so that's probably you know. Samsung are huge.

So yeah, they've I rolled their own Asics for this. most likely just like the other digital border. Let's see much they can go wrong on here, but there could be because we're getting like column fires and other like graphical fires. So you know what I'm going to do is I'm going to reset these flax flat flex eye connectors down here.

Just going to yeah, unpriced. Check them out and you know reseat them and unlikely to be a bad contact, but you never know. You know there could be like a BGA failure under this heat. You know, stress.

You know longevity induced art failure. so that's a possibility. You know to try and repair one of these pain in the arse. you might try and reflow it.

and you know if you determine the cause of the fault to be this board. Or maybe you can just get a spare board from somewhere or something like that. you know these fuses on the input here aren't going to be blowing. No problems there.

You know we've got some tantalum caps on there, but it's probably nothing doing. But as a matter of course you would go in and you measure the rail just to make sure it's okay. Make sure there's no ripple on it. and just a reminder if you are going to go out probing around on any and the main power supply board here.

Safety First, make sure you discharge the main filter caps over here. They should already be discharged should our bleeder resistors on them. but you can actually use. This is a good function for the auto.

check the low impedance Argos voltage function of a multimeter for examples. So we can get in there and probe that. Here we go and let's have a look and you can see that it's actually not reading a voltage. It's automatically switch to Ohms Mega Ohms.

There we go. So there's actually if there was a voltage there, it would actually display it so there's not. So that's our safe and we just measure some voltages on the DC output here. We'll just check for ripple.

you don't actually need an oscilloscope to check for Rick or you can just put your meter to our AC mode of course just to measure the ripple. So DC and AC I've got a dual readout me to hear the U 1272 A just so we can actually display AC and volts DC at the same time. So for getting there and probe this sucker, I don't know which ones what? I Don't think they're labeled. No, No, I don't think they are labeled at all.

so that's rather annoying. Which one doesn't really matter. Here we go: 5.3 Forty million Ten millivolts, or Ripple Bugger-all 5.3 and good enough. They probably tweak that up to, you know, above the Five Point Two Five.

But me good enough. What we really care about is that there's no real ripple on there. So we'll we'll do this. Another cap here.

What's this one? That's Five Point Three, as well as Bugger-all ripple on that. What's this puppy here? Five Point Three. Again, ice is getting boring. Where's a 3.3 volt rail? Alright, twelve, Twelve Point Eight.

There's still bugger. All ripple there. you know. 26 millivolts, so it's not something we're gonna worry about out.

Was that positive twelve? This one's negative. Not sure around. I Think I've got my probes around the wrong way. Doesn't matter.

Just check in for checking for ripple at twelve It night night. Forty six millivolts. No problems at all. There's no one 3.3 volt output on that one.

They must be doing that local voltage regulation on the boards. Let's measure these ones here. We're over on our output display board now. actually.

Fifteen volts. That's unusual. That's not something I expected to see on an output panel driver. Yep, Yep.

Fifteen volts. Okay, so that must be a step-up err converter I Would presume. I Finally found a logic level one here. We go down here: 1.8 volts with, you know, bugger-all? ripple.

Of course, that's at 1.8 volt our core voltage for this main processor. no doubt another logic level. 1.8 volts over here. again.

Once again, there's no ripple. Everything's fine. There would be another course apply for one of the main Asics under here. and and there's a lot of people who might say I replace these I'm seeing young caps and things like that, but no I don't think we need to do that because there's I'm not measure in any ripple.

the rails seem fine. everything I'm measuring seems fine. and like I said, these are all digital. like low-level digital stuff.

dry joint BGA under one of these. Perhaps maybe I'll just receipt these connectors under here, but not an O that's clutching at straws. or if there's a panel. if the panel itself are down in here I'm not going to take the whole thing a part I've I think I've done that in previous videos, but there's going to be likely be chip on flex drivers down right across the Yap panel like this.

it could be some of those. So if it's the actual panel itself which has failed, then here you've got Buckley's chance of repairing it. Most likely you might have to find a, you know, a surplus panel actual panel somewhere. So yeah, it's not looking promising.

Please excuse the crudity of this shot online on my side under the bench where I've got it propped up against very low shutter speed so that it doesn't flicker and it's got a built-in test photo slash test pattern. and well, you bet the problem still exists with this test photo. You can see those lines and the horizontal ones as well. There's actually horizontal each.

Like, you know, second or third line or something is just gone. It's horrible. Absolutely horrible. Hmm got to be the panel panel driver.

T-con board? Something like that. So I'm really beginning to expect this puppy here, which is the control board. It's what's called a T-con board or a timing control display board. So, but a similar sort of T-con type board between the main digital processor and the actual panel itself.

And as I said, they might be extra drivers up on the flat flex panel and stuff like that. But this is the main timing /r display board for the thing. and you might think that this sucker here is the part number, but it's not. It's really annoying.

These Samsung boards really quite annoying. This is not the part number. Get the part number for this thing. Neither is this.

Only part of this is the part number. You have to ignore that. K On the front. you've got to look for the two, eight, Five three and then the end in an extra letter there.

So Two Eight Five three. See, sometimes it's five numbers, but in this case, if there's not five numbers, then you just add on a zero and tada, this is the part number. So it's two eight. so it's Oh Two Eight Five three.

See, you've got to add an LJ 94 - on the front of that and bingo. That is how part number for this particular board now. I Had a quick look on eBay and yeah, you can buy these things. you know, 80 bucks secondhand or something like that, you know? I Only suspect it, don't know yet.

Next stop is to freeze these two here and see if there's any dry joints underneath. Any sort of thermal issues at all. So please excuse the upside-down nosov, this, and the flicker. I've only got a faster shutter speed here.

Got our freezer spray. You can also use dust to spray. If you don't have freezer spray, just turn it upside down. But this is proper freezer spray.

So I'm going to go in there. Here we go. tug at the right angle. That's that smaller chip.

anything? anything bigger? one incoming? good? No? looks the same. Does it? It's hard to tell. Yeah. still dodgy as dammit? huh? Try that again.

I've got a slower shutter speed now. You can see see the blur on that. All right, let's try it again. That's the big chip.

Whoa. frosty. I mean there's a little chip? Nah nah, it's still cactus memory. Not very good how the memory? Nope, not.

it's nothing left. Oh, not one. just for good measure. I'll do the main digital process a bit I Don't expect anything because the menu, the menu, and everything else works so don't expect any issue.

Not I'll spray the rest of the night. Rest of the T-con board. not cap caps, not converters, not nothing so that I'm afraid is a big fat file. No wonder they toss the thing out and there's nothing obvious.

The rails check out fine. and no, you shouldn't have to replace the cap so don't scream, replace the curbs, replace the caps. No. The rails set, all the rails I can measure seemed just fine.

Everything seems rock-solid the freezing. The T-con board has done absolutely nothing. resetting some of the connectors and things as done. nothing.

So yeah. I don't know the panel itself. That's all I can come down to. could still be a fault on the T-con board of course, but their's doesn't seem to be any thermal related solder joint issues under those BGA chips there.

So ah geez, I don't know anyone else got any better ideas? Let me know that's all I've got for today. So that was my latest dumpster find and unfortunately, um, it doesn't look like it's going to be a terribly easy repair. But anyway, I hope you enjoyed that And if you did, please give it a big thumbs up. And as always, if you want discuss it, jump it over to the Eevee blog forum.

Catch you next time you.