Hi Today we're going to take a look at the Quick 861 DW hot air a reflow slash repair station a hot air device designed for rework and repair of PCBs or basically modern surface mount soldering if you've got solder pastes and stuff like that as well. And thank you very much. Lewis Rossmann from the Rossman repair group and fellow youtuber I'll link him in at the end of this video. He's actually done a review of this one as well and he actually I provided this formula what's going to a buy one myself because I needed a better repair station and he recommended this, but he sent me one.

He had already sent me one into the mailbag so thank you very much Luis and he actually recommends. Off the bat, he actually recommends this one as over and above the hakko that he used to use and the Weller ones as well and he recommends this one as basically at almost any price point. So given that he's a repair professional, he does repairs every day. I and he's a no-bullshit guy.

He knows what he's talking about here, but he wanted me to take a look at it as well cuz it apparently up. It made the lights in his shop flicker. that's we might actually take it apart. there might be some, you know.

RFI Interference line conducted mode interfere and so on. Like, go to town of researching that but we'll do a teardown which Lewis hasn't done to check out the build quality. but as far as the performance goes, he swears by this now now. I Have looked at a repair at a hot-air station before which is the cheapest are a 10, 8, 5, 8 D Plus here now the quick by the way is about three hundred US dollars.

As you see it here, the a 1085 ad is like sub $70 delivered. So it's you know it's really cheap everyone should have. If you're into electronics, you should at least have something of this level that just a hot-air gun that allows you to just rework and remove. You know basic small surface mount parts and stuff like that and it's okay.

you know I've been using it for since I did the review. It's my main because I don't do repairs of the board's our other items with big you know, ground planes and huge components that see that sink all the heat and everything. So this has been bill. it's been adequate for the task that has struggled in a lot of times.

It just doesn't have the heat, doesn't have the airflow, doesn't have the capacity to remove. you know, large items and stuff like that so struggles and it's been a bit. Dicky it's supposed to go into sleep mode when you put it on here. There's a magnet or whatever in here, but they found that Dicky it doesn't always work, it's positional attachments.

Yeah! I need something with more capacity. So I was going to get one of these for the lab, but let's check it out see if it's any good. but we're basically talking our chalk and cheese here. This is a really like a high-end sort of you know big airflow capacity I unit whereas this is like you know, hobbyist grade just for you know, very like small boards and simple smaller low thermal mass components and stuff like that.

Now first of all, it does actually come with three are different sized nozzles. excellent. There was also three extra larger sized nozzles and angled like that which could be really organized handy and also for getting like if you've got other components in the way or something like that but I'm not sure if it comes with that, they were in a separate bag so Luis may have included those I don't think they actually comes with it, but you can obviously buy them so let's actually try and put one of these on. Obviously I'm not going to do this when it's a hot I really do like the way that goes in.

it feels like nicely. everything's nicely machined and it isn't nice fit and it Clips right in that's that, feels really professional. that's a Bobby Dazzler Then we've got the stand itself which actually feels a bit of weighting that feels really solid. It's got some rubber on the bottom so it doesn't slide around on your bench and I really like the design of this how it has this sort of like outer ring thing plastic ring which then just sits in there like that.

that is really quite nice. It's kind of hard to, it's hard to sort of miss that you can just go whack it in like that. So not only does that sit in there very nicely I like it, but it also provides a little removal plate. oh that didn't work.

I've got the tripods in the way there we go. Bob's your uncle and that's not gonna fall out. You don't really have to worry about that. I mean if you pull on it, it's going over.

Of course you know you're moving around the bench, swinging on your chair and your leg catches it. it's going over. but maybe I would have preferred something flat. Perhaps you know, because then it's just lower profile on the bench.

Perhaps coming over like that just creates. You know it really has quite a substantial size up here. It's just easy to get caught on there if you're you know, moving around the lab doing stuff. but I do like it.

And the handle actually? yeah, the quality of the plastic on the handle actually feels quite reasonable then unscrews anyway. I like like the rubber hose on here, it feels really good. I might see if that's our burn proof I Might get the iron to that, but that you know it feels a strain relief on that feels really quite professional. Let's try and open this puppy up, but that comes off I Like how it's cable-tied inside here and not one but two cable ties.

That's a nice attention to detail. They've got some heat-shrink Oh, and not heat shrink but insulation tubing down in there which looks like it has another plastic. so the guide in there or something like that looks like the contacts in there are crimp down in there. It all looks very, very well designed.

I'm quite quite impressed by that. Of course it's going to have more than the heater element. There's going to be a sensor in here which detects when it's on the stand. It's obviously detecting that there's metal that goes over the top of this part here, so it's got to detect that somehow.

I'm not exactly sure how, probably some sort of Hall effect metal type thing. Anyway, everything looks nicely heat shrunk or you know, properly crimped down inside there. So I deem that to be quite a professional construction. No worries whatsoever.

I Think to get depart any further I might have to take out these rivets here. so I don't really want to do that so we'll just leave it at that heating element you can see is that the ceramic former down in there for the heating element I Don't know. I'm not gonna take it all apart, but oh, is this like a big copper heat pipes around there? I Don't know. Kind of looks badass.

Now it's for the station. It's so far looks really quite high quality. I've got the metal case around the outside. I Like the user interface.

real easy temperature just up and down. I Have to have a look at the sleigh when we pair it up and the air flow up and down. That's exactly what you want and looks like three different presets because when you're doing an especially production soldering or production repair, when you've got like the same comply. CAC Ahman component that you're all that's always failing and you're always repairing I'm sure Lewis can tell you all about this, then you would know you know you might have like three presets or whatever and you go okay.

I'm removing this, you know, memory chip or whatever BAM press that and it's set up with just the right temperature and airflow. You need to take off that particular chip with that particular thermal mass so that's quite good in power on/off and Bob's your uncle on the back. Very basic. We've got our air intake there because it's got our suck the air in from somewhere.

We do have a grounding point and I do believe it does come with a grounding strap which you can put over to your ESD mat or whatever. so that'd be mains Earth, it's fused and it's of course made in China somewhere. It doesn't say it though, it's got the dodgy QC pass sticker. don't like that.

Anyway, this is the 240 volt / 220 volt model and it's a thousand what rated so that's a heck of a lot of BTUs Or choose your unit. You know we say you're on the Eevblog, don't turn it on. take it apart, right? let's have a squeeze inside this thing. Oh whoa, there you go.

I'm we're in like Flynn Jeez, that's a much smaller than I expected for the motor. We've got an inlet port here, which just you know, sucks the air from around the which is fine, just sucks the air from around everything else which helps with the heat dissipation inside. She said oh okay, no I thought though, just they're angled the piece of YZ angle. That just looked weird I Thought that they were like the board was hanging off with something.

No, but the board's actually yeah, angled in there. Let's take a look down here. Oh, look at that. That's interesting.

We've got our grommet on the back. You're very traditional wire type grommet and then there's a a crimped logo around that. That's alright, but look, they've got the sleeve in here so that doesn't you know? That's a nice touch. So the mains wiring go into the switch at the front.

it doesn't, you know, get cut by the sharp burrs or anything on any. Well, not that there are any, but just the potential there for that to happen. Everything's heat shrunk. I Would have preferred another full heat shrink over there because technically I could get in there and touch.

Maybe there's a little bit of exposed, but you know? Look, it's nice and neat and tidy. I Like it the earth. Yep, down there, it looks like they've got some Loctite down on that. Very nice.

Looks like they might have one of those penetrating washes down there. And then we've got our earth strap bonding resistor there. that's probably how big is it. and I can't see that from here, but that's going up to our terminal on the back and we've got ourselves a nice mains filter on there to check that out.

so that's very nice. Wow They've actually really gone to town on that. That looks like it's got all the requisite approvals and everything else. It's a deal 10 t1 I'll pull up the datasheet for that.

but basically that answers our question about well. the question I had is with Luis and he's flickering lights in his lab When this thing was turned on, presumably just the pump you know turning on was that it caused the lights to flicker and I suspected that's was most likely conducted line interference. which means that the motor generates interference which then goes back on the line and through the mains cord out the back. But a big EMI filter like that? um, that should do the business that should have a massive common mode choke in it and so I probably rule out a conducted line interference.

But anyway. um, it's all very neat and tidy I Love it's all professionally heat-shrink and done. It's very nice. I Guess you could say that motor looks a bit wimpy I Like how they're very cable tied that around they've They've done everything properly cuz you know it's gonna be a lot of vibration.

Oh, that's not a vibration mount - nice. Nice. Yep, there it is. Rubber Grommets excellent So it doesn't generate too much noise, haven't turned on you so don't know how much noise it generates.

But yeah, but it's all very professionally built. Another earth strapped down there. once again, they got the lock tight all over the place. Cable ties everywhere Jesus Things somebody had somebody had fun Wow doesn't that motor drive bored? look spunky I like it there Bo The Dpac mosfet drivers.

They're very nice I'm not sure what the main controller is there can't read that on the screen but yeah, that looks very well designed and manufactured. No worries, you'll notice that the two being going off. Of course we've got the air so what we've got there is the there we go. That's our heater element so we'll follow the money on that one in a minute and this would be your temperature sensor and also for the temperature regulation of course of the element and also the detection for the stand.

When you put the probe on the stand, it goes into sleep mode and we've got ourselves mains earth there. So if I measure that that will no doubt be mains earth connected. so that provides that mains earth shielding for the switching element right up the top of course. I Don't see any common mode chokes it like any sort of chokes or filters on the switch in cable, so maybe it is radiated interference that Lois is seen as being picked up by.

Here's our lab lights. There's the main front panel board, which looks very nice as well. We've got a processor I might be able to get down there and have a look at what one that is those playing along at home. Here's our mains input here of course, and that's our switching element outlook.

very nicely crimped and then into our screw terminals and they're all. and they've all got the insulating sleeves on them. I Really like this. This is very much better constructed than I would have expected for the price.

Although you know there's not a huge amount in these things, so you know 300 US dollars worth, you'd want it to be at least reasonably constructed. And it's certainly yeah, that and more. I think and the capacitors in these are our Jimmy Caan's It looks like they're very use them all over there, including the motor drive board. and Jimmy Connor are one of Taiwan's biggest and oldest electrolytic capacitor manufacturers.

I Really see Jimmy Caan I caps but you know they're they're reasonable. They're going to be decent I think I don't actually know what series it is, but man, it's certainly not the Shenzhen Mark at 100 there's our triack and it looks like genuine St A Bt a 40 series. our 40 amp triac. no worries, that's gonna do the business or the Jesus solder ins a bit.

How you're doing well, actually well. The soldering is probably okay if it'll lead free, but all the flux, residue and stuff. that's the only negative I found so far. anyway.

I put a couple in the layouts actually looks quite reasonable. and there's our one snubber cap across there. and somebody's really gone to town on the thermal compound there, but never have too much thermal compound. Actually you can because it gets to a point where if you have too much, it actually decreases well.

it increases the thermal resistance so it's gotta be just right. The micro down in there. not sure if you can see that, but that's an 18 mega 16a so I could probably be happy I put your own act foam around on if you're really needed to I don't see why, but you know it's just a control loop basically and just lay thing unless it had some annoying interface quirk which I don't think it's God has just got up down buttons and temp up down and flow up down to memory so you know I don't know why you want to improve on that Loctite on all the connectors in here. So there you have it for the teardown.

I'm very impressed by that. I It's hard to fault that thing at all. It's you. Definitely get your money's worth.

So definite thumbs up on here. I've never done a teardown of a higher end. you know, Heyco or Pace or anything like that. but you know I they might maybe be a bit better built in terms of like a more solid in terms of you know Shazi this is just yeah.

Well, it's not even yet. Well, it's just folded metal at the back and just your plastic cover at the front. But like that's pretty much as good as it gets, especially for this price point. They just know what they're doing.

There's attention to detail on almost every aspect of this thing, so I'm thoroughly impressed. Thumbs up. All right, let's pile this baby on. have a look.

beep, that's it. Doesn't read anything, presumably because it's on the stand. So let's I know there we go, we can adjust it. What's the minimum? 100 yet? no worries for doing heat shrink and stuff like that.

What's the maximum? The velocity control is constant. It's alright. it's not the most tuned thing I've seen and 500 Celsius No worries, nothing. it's Fahrenheit rubbish.

Maybe you can change it. Can I see an extra symbol on there? Not really. Oh, it vanishes. Ok, so that's the current.

obviously the current thing and I don't know what the one up to 120? Okay, that's a lot of resolution on. yeah. Air flow rate: I'm That's huge resolution so no worries. I don't know what that is in like you know, liters per minute or whatever or whatever volume thing you want to use.

But let's give it a go. Okay, first thing we'll do is set it to 100 and we'll get a thermocouple and actually measure that kind of check. The rotation on the stand doesn't seem to matter. Wow, that's good.

Yeah, so used to the Dickey one on the just not working on the A 10:1 that's they've implemented that very well. So it's like as soon as I yet take that out so it's got to be some sort of magnetic up. Yeah, there we go, goes down and then boom Nice. Alright, Oh yeah.

Oh yeah, yeah, it's getting hot. it's warming up. Tell you what? It's pretty silent too. Um, it's hard to get audio on the I Yeah, it's very.

Maybe you might use that for Dada I Don't know what you use one for? Maybe you wouldn't even use that for heat shrink. Jeez. But even at the maximum air flow rate, that is remarkably silent. Wow Very impressed.

So just compare both of these on maximum volume. So I do have manual mic level, so let me take it off. So this is the A-10 This is the quick. Actually, come to think of it, maybe the quick is a little bit.

might technically be a bit louder, but it's just got a nicer sound to it. This one's just like Ruffer's guts and just sounds like it's struggling and that's just. and that sounds like a hairdryer or something on low volume, but this one just sounds like a bit of industrial kit. I Mean it, Just.

it is like a higher frequency sound to it. I Don't know, just instills more confidence. Okay, let's measure the temperature, shall we? get our K-type thermocouple maximum air flow? Just stick it up the clacker and oh geez, that's not bad. Tell you what? Yeah.

I Like it. You expect like a tempest, like a ten percent tolerance or something would be fine. That's all right, it's it's settling down a bit. I Don't know, You tell me I don't think so.

I Don't expect these things to be terribly accurate. Okay, how about it. Half the air flow rate? 8% 9% 10% over. Okay, let's have a look at the quick at 300 degrees see if it overshoots I've got it on 60.

Oh geez, it said. it. got up there pretty quick. Now the thing about the quick is that it doesn't display the actual temperature whereas the A-10 seems to do that.

It's getting up there. but it's definitely not going to overshoot so you don't have to worry about this thing causing you any problems with temperature overshoot. By the looks of it, that's good. so it's starting to melt, starting to melt.

I Think that could be above L K type what does that K-type thermocouple go to? No see. It seems to actually have a temperature reading there when it's going down, but not on the way up. so that's that's. a bit interesting.

Maybe I have to RTFM Yep, there it is. Real temp. I'm not sure with that. that light indicates like a buzzer or something.

So the real temp is take it off and there you go. Well, no yeah, well it's sayin. It's three that is like it's almost yeah, a real. That's apparently what the sense is reading, but that's just too stable for my liking.

So I'm not sure what the deal is with that, but certainly if I stick it back on there, it's still showing real temp and it goes down. It can't regulate that well and of course my key type thermocouple is probably not doing the best of business in measuring the temperature, so just use that as an indicator. Oops Yeah! I Thought my probe could go to like a 300 but turns out it's only 260 it's rated for so let's try the A 10 on the other hand set to 250 and oh yeah she's going over. Oh that's not good for my probe.

Yeah yeah, not do yeah look I mean you can say oh sorry you can see the indication. it went up to like 320 something on the indicator. That's terrible. The quicks got pretty darn good regulation compared to the A10.

It's brilliant actually. alright. so I'm gonna actually try and remove a quad flat-pack like this. I don't know.

it's just because I've got it lying around I'm so there's a probably, you know, some thermal mass in there. There's internal layers. This would be at least a four layer board. so you know I've actually given the lack of traces on the outside I think this is like a six layer board.

So yeah, let's just try and suck out one of those. I'm going to set it to maximum air flow rate and 400 degrees Celsius just because I don't know I could set it to maximum, but let's just try 400 and see what happens. I'm gonna have the widest nozzle I've got I've actually plugged it onto the main board just to hold it in place. Let's give it a burl.

Oh, hang on. Oh yeah, that came off much quicker than I thought. Wow Hang on. Yeah! I actually made the mistake of thinking that it would take longer, but it didn't Wow Yeah, well, considering that was my very first attempt at using this and that was a large QFP part.

Wow, that just came off real quick I should have like me, even my tweezers weren't wide enough. Kind of had to spread them so that was a bit of a goof. but well, they came off very nicely and very quick. I forgot to time it but geez, that was probably not more than 15 20 seconds before it started to do the business.

Tell you what this is RIT where you really start to appreciate the the pull off nature of the quick one because this a 10-1 It's got this stupid screw on type thing with a notch in it. Ah, don't like it. don't like it at all. Okay, let's try the A-10 once again.

full airflow at 400 Celsius got a bigger tip I'm sorry about that. I was I Thought bigger would be better than the other little tiny one I had on there. but geez, and I I mean I could see the soul to go I don't know if I haven't played this video back but I could see the soul to go before with the quick and it's just jeez. Come on.

this thing's supposed to have overshoot too. it's just not getting the volume. All right? Here we go. Got it.

Got it all right? Let's try this. TMS 320 BGA I've just got a random teardown board. can't remember what this comes from and it's You know? it's probably like a six or eight layer. It was probably a six layer board or something like that.

So let's give it a ball once again, 400 at the maximum airflow rate I Had success with that before, so let's give it a go and we could. He and I cranked it right up to 500 or whatever, but it's not there we go. Got it? Okay, let's try say ad pack on a Vga card if you wanted to or graphics card. you know, whatever.

Let's give that a ball because it's got a connected through to our decent-size ground plane no doubt. Yeah, I'm there we go. Syrup meld I think Yep. beautiful and I don't think we touched anything else around there and stick is a bit charred.

It's a bit worse for wear but nothing else that just came off a dream. No worries. Alright, let's do a comparison with the A-10 once again at 400 max airflow I mean you know you could crank it up to 500 if you really want to. Some people have their own preferred techniques to keep it lower for longer or keep it higher for shorter time period.

But anyway Wow Really need a fume extractor till I Don't do this for business? Come on, you can do it. You can do it. Come on. Wow Yeah Mon can't see the there we go.

The solder just went mmm. So as you can see the A 10 I think took a bit long, they seem to struggle a bit more I Would you know I get a better warm and fuzzy with the quick and I think if you actually put the time and next to that it is quicker as you'd expect. No doubt because there's just and we're talking about a $300 our station compared to like a $70 station. So you know it's just.

but. if we had really bigger thermal mass parts and the Quick is going to do the business better. Now the power package. let's go.

shouldn't have any problems. This is on a fairly beefy multi-layer board, so come on, you can do it. You can do it. Wait for the solder to melt.

You can usually visually see it. you usually see it. go. Yeah, Well, there we go.

There's there she goes. No worries. Found one annoying thing. You can't adjust the temperature while it's on the stand and cooling down.

That's really annoying. You can't adjust anything. Damn it. Okay, let's see if we can store this.

If we hold down. I Presume you haven't read the manual. Just hold down Channel One. Yep, Channel One.

There you go. So let's say we want a 320 and I don't know. 47 on Channel 2. Jeez, that's much quieter There we go, stir it in channel 2 and then just up jump over to Channel 1 Oh Channel 2.

Nice. Ok, I've let it cool down. I'm going to try the adjacent part to it next to there, but I'm gonna try it at 300 instead of 400 just to see what sort of capacity it's got at the lower temperature because you may want to set 8. You know if you don't like or you don't or there's a technical reason where you can't go to the higher temperature and generally you want to de solder and solder at the lowest temperature you possibly can.

especially when you leave in the air on something for a while like this. Let's see if we can do it at 300. So it's the exact same part. Let's give it a go.

Oh, is it? Yep. Yep. Got it? Got it? Hang on. Very, very close.

Very close. Yep, no problems. 300. So I'm actually very impressed like that.

To get that off with a 300 Max Air Temple. We've seen that it doesn't seem to overshoot on temperature. so and by the time it gets into the chip, it's probably not going to be 300. You know, because where there's there's loss in the what centimeter half a centimeter we had towards and like getting to that chip going through the air, it's going to spread out and cool down by the time it gets there.

So that did a really good job at 300 degrees C I'm impressed by that. Okay, so I'm gonna try the attend one now at once again. 300 degrees C max Air flow. It's not an identical part, but pretty darn close to it, so you know maybe we'll give it a bit more slack.

but let's see if this a tin can do 300 Celsius and this are tens. No one to overshoot of course, but let's see if it's got the heat flow possible at 300 degrees C cuz it's all a matter of airflow to you can't just do it. You don't want to always set your air flow to maximum and so we'll give this a go. Come on.

so it's a delicate trade-off I Mean you know it. Experience plays a huge part in this. This is how someone like Luis Rossmann makes it look real easy in his repair videos cuz he does it every day and he's done a the same part hundreds of times. And you know where someone like me who does not to repair almost at all basically I you know I compared to someone who does it every day makes a heck of a difference.

You get a much better feel for the airflow and Terry good airflow on temperature you can use - Oh yeah, there we go. Ken still doesn't actually. based upon the parts I've done now, the Anton is actually doing quite a reasonable job. It is definitely not as good as the quick.

The Quicker does it quicker go figure because it seems to have a greater heat volume as you'd expect, but the attends kind of holding up. but hey, you know this could make the difference. This can do it quicker and maybe at a potentially lower temperature as well. That can make a difference between lifting tracks, damaging nearby parts, all sorts of stuff and you know it could cost you a lot of money in scrapping a board or something compared to the price difference between these two.

If you can, pony up for the money for the quick, I'd Definitely do it just for kicks. I'm going to ramp it right up to 500 I'm going to use this bigger right angle attachment I'm going after this bad boy this. NVIDIA vanta anyone remember that? haha You know, just stop the board sliding around I should go get a proper holder. Got it? We got it.

I Know we lost a couple of Pads bugger. We lost a couple of balls on their thing I hate it when your balls drop. Believable with that? Um, yeah, I didn't right? This is not my day job I'm waking up my day job for reworking VGA chips. This is not the best.

You know you wouldn't do this. You would use the proper the bigger like you can get like a dist and type one specifically for reworking our BJ's and stuff like that. I Just wanted to try this for kicks and yes, it did come off I probably just didn't leave it long enough before. I Try to lift it off in there.

you know? Obviously they hid all that under Neath was fine, but the ones on the outer ones weren't quite as hot as the other ones. but you may consider and that's my first attempt at that. I'm using this iron. um, that worked a treat kind up.

No, not really, but it came off. Check that out. One sorry looking bored No. I Was actually gonna use my tech box artificial mains network here designed for our conducted mode emissions for measuring mains products.

Just like have a little play around with it just to see our losses looking light problem perhaps. but unfortunately, um, watch Boom Hit hit trip my earth leakage circuit breaker because high leakage current. So so I'm I don't have an on earth leakage circuit breaker protected outlet here in the lab I think so. so much for that.

Hmm, maybe next time. So there you have it, That's a look at the Quick 861 DW and I think I've got to agree with Lewis this one is a winner. Winner Winner chicken dinner for I Know a lot of people can't afford 300 bucks for a hot air rework station If you're just doing, you know, occasional stuff like I am. then the air tends kind of.

You know it's a bit crusty, but it's get the job done for Europe you know, 70 bucks or whatever. But yeah, this quick looks really nice and Lois has done bigger motherboard stuff and things like that. He's done some accurate timing. I'll link in the video at the end here so watch that one and he recommends this one too.

He reckons it's better than the Hakko it does it or they can't remember the exact model, number, effects something or other, so he reckons it wins hands down at any price point now. I Haven't compared it to other rework stations that's been so long since I've worked in the business and used other professional rework stations I'd have to have them to hand here but this is great I'm gonna love having this in lab. the antennas it's Gonski there's just no like the quick. the at hand can kind of sort of do a lot of jobs, but it's not going to be able to do your big a heavy-duty Er jobs that then Squid does.

It's got no overshoots, the build quality is excellent, and for 300 bucks it's like a half or a third of the price of the big-name ones. So I reckon this puppy's going to sell like hotcakes so thank you very much Lois for sending this one in. It's going to be a great addition to the lab and I'll link in Louis's store down below I think I'm gonna add this one to my store as well I actually I used to have an Amazon Well, I still do have an Amazon store so thanks to everyone who buys stuff through there. I get it like an affiliate Commission there's a link on my website to do that, but they've like discontinued their stores and stuff.

So I've actually got a new Kit.com store which not only links to Amazon but links to like camera places and other online places. And once again I still get a commission based thing. It doesn't cost you anything but I've got some recommended gear on this and I'm definitely going to add that to my kit Comet list thing and I'm still doing I'm still using the Amazon affiliate program, but it goes through Kit Comm so check that down below. I'm gonna give that a ball anyway.

Hope you like that. If you did, please give it a big thumbs up. As always, discuss down below: catch you next time.