Hi Just a follow-up video on this quick 8 6 1 DW Hot Air reso luring station I'll link in the previous video down below if you haven't seen it because this might not make much sense because some people want to be to do some measurements on this thing and so let's have a quick look at that. But first of all, I Wanted to clarify this is actually the DW model and actually got the spec which I overlaid on the previous video wrong. By default, the website was shown the De model and that's apparently a more powerful model that's 1200 watts as opposed to this thousand watt unit. And it's also the De model is the 200 liter per minute air flow model.

This one's only 120. hence why if I actually take this out. Air flow if we actually go up, its maximum is 120. So this is actually a direct readout in liters per minute, which is quite nice.

So that's the DW model and it's the De model that it goes up to 200 liters per minute. So that's just a clarification. So technically this actually has the same air flow hundred 20 litres per minute as the A10 slash would. If you want to do what brand you want to call it goes under many brands the 8 V 8 DW So does that mean that you know this is the same power as that? We'll know because I This one's a thousand watts heater capability as opposed to 700 watts for the Aten.

But that's not the only difference I'm The a lot of people say well if they're the same liters per minute and they're the same, if the same heater power, they should be the same. Well, that's not the case. it's all about the well. A good lot of it that has an impact of course, but a good lot of it will be to do with the internal element design and how they can actually transfer and the heatsink design in there, and the heat fin design and how they can actually transfer as the heat blows out over the element, how efficiently it can actually transfer from the element to the air.

And so you're better quality ions like this one. The Quick is definitely a better design and better quality iron than the A-10 one, and that's why its performance was roughly about double I Got in the previous video and there's some people saying oh, I didn't use the current, the same sized nozzles and everything else and I was waving the A-10 around too much and whatnot and that's going to have some impact bending all the testing I've done and somewhat quite a bit of it was off-camera playing around with this thing. Yes, this is definitely the more capable iron than the A-10 but you'd expect it. It's just a better designed and higher priced unit.

I Know price is not the only specification because Luis Rossmann of course has done tests on this one and he says it outperforms the the hakko and the Weller that cost like three times the price. So that'll have to do with you know, like I said, the design of the element and the air fin attachments and stuff like that. No I don't know. Actually a bit of research.

not in hot air guns but solar air heaters because I designed my own solar air heater once and that was all an optimization problem. So as you actually push the air through the like this long circular snaking path of the solar air heater, the more surface area it has to actually pick up the heat. And if you've just got and if you have little fins inside there it's a more efficient again the more surface area you have. but then it's a trade-off with blocking the air flow and stuff like that.

Socially quite complicated how you can transfer air moving air onto like thermal surfaces and the whole you know design of heat sinks with moving airflow in product design it actually is quite complicated. and you know things like this are quite complicated. If you get right down to them people think oh, it's just an element and push some air through it. There's a bit more engineering involved in that and sorry I can't take this one apart I Don't want to ruin it to show you anything you know the actual design inside.

Maybe if we had a sacrificial one we could do that, but it's got like rivets on there that prevent me doing that, down in there. But anyway, yeah, people think it's just an element and just a tube blowing sort of motor to blow some air through. Well, no, there's a bit more to it than that. That decides its performance.

Anyway, some people just wanted me to what measure the waveforms and stuff. Let's take a quick look at that, All right. So what I've got is my aim. I Proba 5:20 I've done a video on this.

It's a very nice bit of kit and costs a bit of money, but it's very nice. you can measure current using the clip on toroidal attachment I've got here. We can actually just use it as a oscilloscope clamp meter basically to turn our scope into a clamp meter to view the waveforms. and in this particular configuration, it gives out a well.

the amplifier in here. the sensor in the amplifier give out a nominal one volt per amp output. So I've got that hooked into the scope here. and I've got this on the primary side of the filter in there.

but I've also got a reference waveform captured from the secondary side there of the filter. I Think somebody in the comments said that this filter was wired wrong or something like that. but no, everything's on the secondary side of the filter like it goes into the heating element and stuff like that. Anyway, the problem with Lewis is one that made the lights in his lab flicker.

and of course the only you know it's got a beautiful common mode filter in there, so it can't be any like conducted RFI or something like that. So it's got to be the the switching currents coming from the heating elements and that would have to do with his the wiring configuration, the phase configuration, mains, phase configuration in his lab, and I stuff like that. In fact, if this thing makes his lights flicker I'm surprised that something else doesn't make them flicker too because it's basically as you saw in the teardown. It's just a triac in there and it's just a basic track switching circuit with a RC snubber across it.

and then on top of that, we've got the filter in there. But yeah, so anyway, it's got to be the actual occurrence. All right. So let's actually check it out here now.

I've actually I captured a reference waveform here and that's this brown one here. it's I'll show you on a sec actually a live waveform, but I've captured that reference that was on the secondary side of the filter so that was basically directly from the element and you can see you know it's where it's a classic triac type switching arrangement and you'll see that these in. in this case. we've got like a full cycle there and a full cycle there with a gap in between.

And of course that is if you have a look at five milliseconds per division, that's 20 milliseconds across. That's 50. Hertz of course, because that's what a triac circuits do and the heating on this particular case directly across the mains. So that's all the triac does is switch the heating element often on every full or half cycles as we'll see.

so I just captured that and where it's two amps per division. see so two, four, six. it's almost 8 amps peak. so that's actually pretty beefy stuff.

Oh Miss. let's actually have a look at a live one. I Actually turn on the element. So now where the yellow waveform is our live waveform on the primary side.

So this is what's actually going out into the mains and I've turned it on I've only got like a speed of 10 liters per minute here so it's not much and you can see that it's um, if we can like single-shot capture that and you can see that we've actually got a you know, sometimes it's a in this particular case is one and a half cycles there. sometimes you'll only get I think I've sure over scene. let me capture it again. Oh there we go.

So we've only got the half hour cycle there so the control algorithm has determined that you know it's it'll, cycle this element off and on what it has to do to keep to maintain the loop temperature that you've set it to the set temperature on there and that'll be based on the airflow as well. So if you have higher air flow you'll actually a is see that change. So let me maybe let's go up air flow up and run it. So that's air flow at the moment.

that's a 10 50 litres per minute. let's go up to 200. you can hear that so we should actually get a few more cycles on there perhaps. But anyway, and if we turn the air flow right back down, probably shouldn't need as many there you go.

shouldn't need as many to maintain in this particular case, 400 degrees see and you can see that it's not doing much at all at the moment, just very occasionally it'll turn the element on and try and maintain that temperature. So those current spikes that let's actually single shot capture that. so you can see that the filters actually done a bit there. the amplitude is slightly less probably, you know, and it's going to take out any like slightly higher frequency stuff.

but I don't really been playing around with this and I don't really see any high frequency stuff in there, so maybe that big nice common mode filter that they've got in the back of this thing. Maybe it's not needed at all, but hey, you'd have to do a full broadband compliance test and all that sort of stuff. but it's a very nice touch to have one in there. But so a mains filter like this simply isn't going to sort of like, you know, smooth all this out so that you don't get any transitions at all.

That's not how it works. Unfortunately, it's only designed for your more high frequency stuff. So yeah, there you go. We have like eight amp almost a well-know come in from the mains.

let's call that 7 amp peak and this is for 240 volt mains. Yes, I do actually have 240 volts here in the lab and you can see that the RMS current there is about you know 2.6 I think it was going about 3 amps RMS or so. so that gives us about you know, a 700 watt capability roughly. but hey, we didn't like fully like turn the heater on the full way.

Ok let's have a look at the RMS current here. if I try and ramp this right up here we go I'll go up in temp so it's on mostly off four and a half, two to reach four and a half amps there. Something like that, maybe four, four to four and a half. and of course four and a half amps.

That's just over a thousand watts, a thousand eighty or something. So you know, like that's like basically meeting its spec in terms of the thousand water heating element capability in this thing. So as you can see, it's just not always I turning that element on and delivering the full power. It just needs to do it periodically to maintain the set temperature.

So let's do the same for the attend and look. I mean there's just no competition in the engineering between these two. Oh goodness. And of course this is a totally different beast because this actually contains the motor inside here.

It's not doing it in the base unit like the Quick and all of your other professional ones do and have the hose coming over. very different. and here we go Where I got the UH turn up and running. you can see peak currents considerably less.

Let me turn it on and bingo we get full sine wave. None of this triack chopping rubbish. We can't the full sine wave when it's hit temp. hang on.

much lower peak power capability. So to get our specs 700 watts let's go here. should be 2.9 amps. we get in 2.6 you saw it there.

so this is not meeting its rate at 700 watt capability. So there you go I Hope you found that little follow-up interesting there. And yeah, the at end or what was it getting? 620 watts or something? You know it's not grossly under its rated 700 watt capability. but The Quick actually seemed to be doing.

maybe slightly. at least meets. it's a thousand watt, a radiant heating element rating, and maybe slightly over. So it's a genuine rating.

and it really I The Quick is just a much better unit. Yes, this kind of sort of, you know does the job. But as I said in the previous video, if you know the what their 200 say two hundred dollars difference or two hundred fifty dollars difference between these two and this one, you have to put longer on your particular device or your board that you're repairing and you screw that up and you're You know you could ruin. You know, five hundred dollar job you can easily ruined.

You know, two hundred Fifty dollars just gone BAM Like that. So and anyway, I Found the actual catalog for the tips you can get for the quick as well and it's got a huge range of a BGA quad flat packs and all sorts of ones whereas the A10 is just a bit of a more of a toy. I Don't you might be able to get some attachments for the A-10 as well, but it's probably a whole bunch of art. you know? third ion's because this is actually sold under, you know, dozens of different brands I Don't actually know who the original equipment manufacturer is, whether it's a ten or someone else I Can't recall.

but so yeah, the problem with that Lewis's flickering lights is basically is almost certainly I Think the drawing the current from the try just the switching triac peak currents. but almost every large power you know device heating element type device on the market works in a similar Triax switching way. It does the same thing so you know whether there could be something subtle in there. you know causing these lights to flicker.

but if you probably puts it on a separate phase or something like that that might fix it. Some other filter in I don't know might fix it. There might be other some other high-frequency conducted or radiated I don't think it's conducted because of that filter. Maybe there's you know, some radiated stuff being picked up in who knows what common modes things somewhere else it can like.

Analyzing a problem like this can be real complicated. You start by just isolating. you know phases for one thing and so you know move it to a different circuit or in the other puddle lab and stuff like that. my lab for example one war users are different I don't know for weather and lots of different phase but it's different.

Definitely a different circuit to the other one so you're try and just move stuff around like that as the first port of call. but anyway I hope you found that interesting. and if you did, please give it a big thumbs up. Catch you next time.