Just warning you. Now there's going to be no conclusion to this uh video. There's like there's no way I'm fixing this today. It's just it's not going to happen.

Hi, it's Sony Rx100 Mark 4 repair time again and I just did that like 57 minute previous video. So I thought I'd go back in there and take a look. but unfortunately, there's a fully charged battery. This is what happens today.

Nothing it does not power on anymore. It's back to its original fault condition. What the? I cannot cop a break at all on these type of repairs. Murphy's like just kicks my ass every single time.

So I guess there's nothing left to do but simply take it apart again. Once again, I don't have to get the lens out, but I'll take it apart. I'll get to the main board and just see if there's like power on the main board and stuff. So anyway, I'll take it apart.

I'll speed up the details, watch the previous video if you want to see this thing taken apart, so I'll get right in. Oh and by the way, if you want to work on this, uh, safely and not get zapped like I did, then um yeah, I've actually found the uh, flash capacitor. It's in here. You can actually probe these two here and you don't even have to get through the it looks like that's just copper.

on the surface. it looks like it doesn't have any um, like resist or anything like that. So there you go if you want to discharge it. Of course I have to use a different Uh meter than my Bm786.

So what we need is a meter with a Phantom voltage resistor auto voltage mode on it. So let's get in there and we'll probe that and that and that will put a resistor across there and it's already dropped it down to eight volts. So that is completely safe and we'll probably get some recovery on that voltage there. Yeah, yeah, it's going up.

It's recovering a bit, but of course that's completely safe to touch. Now I don't have to worry about it. Um, yeah, so that's what zapped me before that will slowly drain away. Of course you could use a resistor.

whatever. Oh sorry, I forgot to show you. Um, but the ribbon cable? uh in there for the Lcd. That seemed to be in fine.

So yeah, all right, I'm back into the Uh Pcb here. Uh, this is off to the center. We know the sensor works fine. Um, this goes off to the uh, the switch on the top, but that one looks that one looks for all the world like it's fine.

but once again, we'll just reseat them. You could argue that one wasn't fully in, so it looks pretty good. I don't know. Let's let's whack a battery in and see if she um, says she powers up again and power it up without the Lcd? No, no, I wonder if there's like a power on sequence to like reset it or something like that.

I don't know that. that wouldn't surprise me if there is. Yeah, All right. So that's nothing.

All right. Let's call up the Ni virtual bench and uh, measure some voltages, shall we? Let's do that again. Nope. If I hold it down, does anything happen? No.

Anyway, dude, a couple of little probies on here. Nope. Nope. nope and assume that's ground and uh, no, we get getting.

There's nothing on this board. Zippity-doo-dah Once again, I don't want to have to get into that board again that top ball cause I gotta take everything off. When I do that, it's like it's just dead. Like it doesn't recognize the soft power button at all.

But unfortunately we can't get this thing out and then probe that top order. Um, stick the screen back in. just in case. I don't know that's the first thing it detects or whatever.

Okay, that's in there again. It doesn't look like it's in all the way, but that's in as far as I can push it. Keep Well, can I flip it over? Yeah, I can flip it over. There you go.

No worries that'll keep it insulated. No. just died. Like seriously, I didn't do anything to it after that video.

All I did was just leave it for a bit. like well, overnight and like it worked. When I you saw it, it worked. When I reassembled the thing, I just left it overnight and and it's come back and it's just failed.

I can assure you that battery is good. There you go. 4.14 volts. I know it's negative, so all the electrons are falling out, but um, I don't know what.

Pain in the ass, Bloody Murphy. Anyway, as for the scrolling, um, screen thing, it's got to be the connection cable. Well, there's two faults. One is that it scrolls and B is that it also is upside down.

So, and that did not flip when I flipped the camera. And normally that happens when you flip. Uh, you know the screens normally like this and you flip the screen over like that. Now there's um, so let's talk about that one.

First, There's only two ways to actually detect that whether the screen is flipped up or not. One is to have an accelerometer do that and it can't be in the camera. It's got to be in the screen, right? Because otherwise you wouldn't be able to detect that the screen's flipped up while the camera's stayed in exactly the same position. Or it could have some sort of sensor contact micro switchy thing that actually detects that the screen's gone up once it goes up to a certain angle.

Then it flips, but I don't see how that would be possible. So it's most likely some sort of accelerator mode, but it's got to be in the screen, so that means it's got to go via this ribbon cable here now. of course. This is all the connections for the Lcd.

We know all the data lines are working, all the clock lines. Everything's fine, except it's scrolling so there's got to be some sort of vertical sync signal here. horizontally. If they got a vertical sync signal, they probably have like a horizontal um, sink or that could be just the clock.

I don't know the interface for this one. I you know, yeah it's got to have like a vertical sink pin. but then that doesn't explain why the accelerometer is dead So it's almost as if like, okay, let's assume that there's a vertical sink pin on here, right? Then We know that okay, that could be flapping around in the breeze, could be floating and that's causing the problem that we're seeing. Um, that could be due to gunk, so you know like a bad contact could be due to a broken trace as well.

Um, but then we've got the accelerometer problem. so let's assume it's a bad contact. We can maybe clean it, get some isopropyl in there, expect it, and and stuff like that, at least the rim cable. Anyway, get some ice flood that connector with isopropyl and I don't know give it a good shake around, but then like the odds of the vertical sink failing and also maybe some connection for the accelerometer or something.

I'd like all like both be in like bad contact unless they're both up one end of the cable or something. We can't solve that problem until we solve the problem of this stupid thing turning on. So we're going to have to go to the service manual now. Thank you to somebody who sent me the service manual.

Unfortunately, that was like a Mark One version of it. but I was actually able to get the service manual for the Mark Iv model and but I had to pay for this. I paid a whop in five Yankee bucks for this. So yeah, um, click like down below.

I've got to get my money back for this video in Ad revenue and I do believe this is the updated one. So anyway, look self-diagnosis function like I. I have not looked at this but this is. this is pretty great.

Okay identifying parts and I could have just got the service menu and figured out how to take this thing apart properly. I was lucky that I didn't actually damage anything taking it apart and put them back together. So board assemblies it's got everything. I mean Sony service manuals are so comprehensive.

Um, it's absolutely fantastic. Wish they'd just put them on their website like why not version. But here's you know. here's all the flex, Flat, flex.

You know they tell you how to do the connectors and everything and then they've got like just great diagrams of this thing. thickness of the ship, I don't know what, like software they're using there and stuff like that. They've got quite a few of those. But anyway, they do explain how to do all this.

even if even if those parts aren't in English. doesn't matter. But here's all the different assemblies. Fantastic.

Like it'd be awesome if these things were available for free on the Sony website. I mean, people would be buying Sony gear like crazy. Well, Joe average doesn't care, but then get a good rep. You know? check out all these exploded views Like you know that's the Heatsink assembly and stuff.

It's just. it's fantastic. It shows you how the flat flexes, lay out, and stuff. remove the screws, disengage the screws, how to get everything apart.

Oh wow. like there's probably it has. You know where to put all the tape and stuff like that? There's the ring, and there's a lens assembly. Anyway, what I'm really interested in is the schematic to basically show me what that top control board does.

Um, you know, and how that's like soft power function works because we've got to solve that. Obviously like there's some sort of intermittent thing there or something like that. So anyway, I oh man, I could spend hours just looking. No schematic out of my five bucks.

There is another version of this though, so I might download that one as well. so let me, I'll get back to you. Sure enough. Yep, there's another 80 page service manual here.

Let's have a squares. Okay, so this has got all the parts list. This has the block diagrams, the frame schematics, and the schematics. So there you go.

It's two different documents. so 180 pages. Look at all this. Look at the bomb.

Wow, that's incredible. Ah man. imagine if you could just download this from the Sony website. Ah ah.

Look at these block diagrams. This is absolutely fantastic. Wow. Hats off to Sony for actually producing these.

These are brilliant. Okay. Flexible Battery terminal? Okay, here we go right. So this is interesting.

Check it out. We have the battery terminal on there, but we also have there's the Lithium backup battery. That's what's obviously reset it. When we disconnected all this and took the whole thing apart, it obviously lost all its factory settings and that had to do with the well, the Lithium battery is on the flexible board.

I I simply didn't see that. I don't know. did you see that in the previous video? I? I didn't notice it. But anyway.

yeah. that Lithium battery. So resetting that, like reset the thing. It made it work.

So maybe if we like disconnect that again, we can at least get it. Maybe reset it again and back up and running. But then why it failed again? just sitting there overnight? I have no idea. but at least we can potentially get that back up and running so I'd be surprised if that didn't work.

That's that bottom side. Like, um, two pin like it was. Yeah, two pin power. That's what we measured.

It must have had a third one on there. so if we can just disconnect that, which is the one on the underside of this connector. So I think even if we have to like lift the board out, it's not a problem. So yeah, hopefully we can get back in there and let that that's going to be the first thing I'm doing.

I want to just want to get this booted up again and I'm going to disconnect that again and see if that actually kicks it back into action. I could take it out without, uh, taking the board out, but then plugging it back in without taking the board out nut. So yeah, let me take the board out. I'm gonna take that bracket off again.

I want to keep all the ribbons intact. Got it? We can power it up like that actually. But I don't know what this little tiny ribbon over here does. I don't think that matters.

It's not making electrical connection. No. So this is just a push on so I still don't know where the battery is in there somewhere. Is it? Oh bugger, I just pulled out that as well.

I'm gonna have to push that back in. Actually, I can't remember where did that one come from. Connected deep down on the back side down in there. Oh God.

I'm gonna have to go watch my previous tear down, video. Yeah, sure enough, watch my own video. And the back of that board does have a friction connector on it. It's not a bar one, so um, yeah, I like, I can't see it.

Uh, maybe if I I don't know, I need a light directly down, I'm probably gonna design like a, um, like a custom ring light for this. I think for my Tagano microscope that sort of just attaches to the bottom here and just comes out wide so I can like light up directly. Like I've got lights. for me.

I've done videos on this, got lights from either side, light from the front here, but technically nothing coming down. Even if I turn on the Tagano internal light like that, it's coming down an angle. it doesn't go directly down. So yeah, um, having that, the ability to do that would be nice.

But anyway. anyway, I'll fiddle around with this and I should be able to do this using feeler vision. Um, just to feel that it's gone back in because if it goes in and you you know, have a bit of trouble sort of tugging it back out, then you know it's you know it's in. So give that a burl.

No, I didn't have any luck. I'm gonna. I think I'm gonna have to take out the Sd card. Um, oh damn yeah.

okay. those ribbons are out. Flippity-doo-dah Sd module Fantastic. So I can get back in there now and connect.

Ah, reconnect that ribbon. Don't know how I pulled it out. A bit of tape flapping around in the breeze. there.

I can see it now. Yeah, you can't but I can't Yeah, ideally you'd take the battery compartment out as well. but nah. screw that.

There we go. you mug. Come on. I think I got it That went back in.

pretty easy. I think it's in there. It feels like it's in there. Once again, it's just feeler vision.

I can't actually see it. I'll just reassemble both. love and hate. flat.

Flex. Is that is that possible? Oh, the bloody ribbon cables come out again. just wondering. Could that be the cause of the problem? That cable like slip out or something and uh.

I don't know. I can definitely feel that is in. Definitely felt the friction. You've got to use your feeler vision, Your Mark One Feeler vision system now.

I'll be extra careful to put this back in this time without touching that bloody ribbon. Maybe that's what some of the tape is for. Maybe I can just temporarily tape that back. Yeah, there you go.

Just tape that sucker back. out of the way power cable back in. All right, all the ribbon cables back. and now let's do the infamous room and cable.

Oh, I didn't even look at the schematic for that sync line. I was too excited. and I was too excited to even clean that with isopropyl. I don't know.

I. I just want to really get this going. I'll leave this taped up here. I'll leave this taped out of the way like this because I'm sure I'm going to have to diddle with this board again.

In fact, it looks pretty askew So, but I just want to. I want to see if I'm able to. I need a bit of ins. I need insulator under there.

Let's give that a bowl. And where's our power button? Nope. What? What? What? What? Of course, it doesn't work. Zippity Doodah.

Yeah. I don't know if I got the uh patience today to investigate this any further. Oh, there's an accelerometer there. There you go, Got him.

Um, that's not the one in the screen, but look up up here. It's yeah. Um, no H, right? So it's got backlight, so the Lcd and you know it doesn't show sync up there. We actually need the pin out of the of the Lcd, But like that, that's inconsequential.

The scrolling problem. Um, it's the boot problem. That is the problem. pitching your sensor.

There you go. It's an Se 7701 Focus drive motor, Led drive, wireless and Cpu Camera Dsp Av single uh, processor? Is that? Are they pin numbers Ad1 W31 I guess they are. Of course that would be one of those Bga jobbies. Um, so image sensor right? So the image sensor? that's all serial.

So we want Lcd. Here we go. Yep, H Drive V drive. So it's got horizontal and vertical.

Yeah, so there you go. And of course, the flexible to the uh, no, that's to the viewfinder electronic viewfinder unit pin 6 or 26 over here. So anyway, yes, there is a vertical sync Vd vertical drive I guess they call it. um.

and yeah. So obviously the clock works. The horizontal works, all the data works. all your three data.

all of your three groups of data up here. red, green, and blue. They all work fine. Your power works fine because the screen works.

It's just lost vertical. uh, sink. So that would be that line there that it must be open. And that's what happens when the line opens.

So yeah, just dodgy contact or something like that. But there's no accelerometer in this Lcd unit is there. So how are they detecting that the screen's flipped up? Is it some register? Maybe like the Lcd actually has the we'd have to look for the Lcd board schematic, I guess. But yeah.

Like as I said, like it's it's not a hinge thing. and and the camera can stay completely still not move the camera and you flip the screen up. And um, and it detects that the screen flips. So obviously there's an accelerometer or some sort of switch in the Lcd that detects.

Once it gets to a certain point, it flips up. Anyway, that's neither here nor there. I like. I think we can fix that like you know, it could be a broken ribbon, dodgy contact? whatever.

because it was obviously working fine before I took it apart. Well, no, it wasn't Well, last I used it, it was. It was working fine. Then I took it apart and reassembled it and the vertical screen came back.

But why? why the battery thing? Oh, they've got a thermistor in there. That's the overheat that is the bane of every digital Slr. right? So underneath this we have our these are our actual schematics. So the other was like block level stuff.

But this is here's the real deal. That's a Cmos Imager. There you go. That's the imager itself.

It's a Sony sensor. But yeah, Sony make sensors for most of the cameras out there. Uh, don't they? You know they companies will advertise it as you know you get one of those little uh, webcaming things. They'll advertise it as having like a Sony sensor because they're the best.

Anyway, that's that's their big one-inch jobby shiny if you find a serial interface. No, no, this is great. I mean, just imagine having you know if you really were keen to spend the hours to fix your Sony products, these things are just fantastic. Lcd module? Yeah.

Vertical? Yes. Pin 26 as we saw before. Yep, Yep. but there doesn't seem to be, uh, there's a test pin.

I wonder what happens when you do the test pin when you short the test pin Normally they leave it open. But backlight. x uh, what's Xs clock and X reset? is that sensor? Because the clocks were somewhere else? I thought, yeah, yeah. D clock.

So what's X S clock and X reset? I don't know. It's renamed Avs clock and Xp Efv reset. Oh geez. okay ah as an ambient sensor output as well.

light gat light gate. So it's got a light ambient light sensor as you pitch your sensor. Sounds serious, doesn't it? When they call it pitch your? you're flying there. You go.

for you antenna aficionados there manual ring rotation sensor. There you go. So there's the opto couplers for the rotation for the Uh for the ring pop-up Detect: No, that's the um, that's the viewfinder pop-up I would imagine. right? Straight.

no strobe? No, no, that's for your flash, right? So your strobe is your flash. Um, so yeah. so it detects when the flash pops up and it, you know. Yeah, Yes, it only charges the capacitor when you.

I think when you uh, pop the um flash up or it might keep it pre-charged So then when you pop the flash up, whoops, Ready to go. But anyway, the sensor needs to know whether or not the flash is popped up, whether or not to automatically activate it in auto flash mode because it's not dumb enough to uh, like flash it while it's pressed down and it's inside the body. It's got another R3 axial acceleration sensor. so yeah, I could like spend hours going through this in detail.

A roll sensor. God, how many a roll sensor amp? It's got. Gyro roll. It's how many bloody sensors accelerometer type sensors does it have? There's the eyepiece sensor, so I think I mentioned that last video when you put your eye up to it.

Um, Lcd rotation detect. So that's on the flexible board. Okay, I I don't Okay, so it's not built into the Lcd, it's on the Se 1010 board. Yeah, so we could search for that somewhere else.

But the Lcd rotation detect? obviously? Um, yeah, it didn't work. So there you go. It looks like it does like with another chip. It's not a light sensor because when the screen's always in there because you can pop it up 90 degrees and it doesn't flip it.

So it's only when you pop it up like 180 that it actually does that. But anyway, I'm not. I'm not worried about that. For those wondering how they do their, uh, flash charging, There you go.

There's your big ass cap. 330 volts. That's the thing that zapped me. 46 Mike: there's your driving transistor.

so it's all happening now. Nfc Interface blah blah blah blah. Dc to Dc converter over Voltage protector. Now we're getting into the processor.

Cpu: I I like how they're compartmentalized. Uh, block lockletized words obviously not going to pop out of my head. The individual functions here. And that's how you draw schematic symbols, by the way.

Yeah, especially when you've got big complex ones like this. Separate them into functional blocks like this. It just it makes your life a lot easier. Um, you know you wouldn't have like the If.

Sometimes it's better to have like the actual pin out of the chip. other times, no, you want. especially for complex ships, you have functional things like this one. It gets to a certain point in chip size where yeah, it's better to do all that makes more sense.

Yep, and that just keeps going and going and going. E-fuse Wow. That chip's got everything. Is that a fully custom basic? like wow, Wow.

Cpu, Gpio like it just keeps bare. It's got bear, etc. Power Cpu, camera, Dsp, Av Signal Processor, lens control mic. Yeah, it's got everything in this chip.

Oh man. these schematics go on forever. There is a fuse in there. There's a one amp jobby in there and oh yeah, there's another one as well.

0.63 amps, 24 volts. You could get a fuse block. Oh, another one over here. 2.5 amps 32.

Wow. There's three fuses inside this thing. There you go. Got a couple of little regulators there.

I squared C Dc to Dc converter. It's all happening. Still am found. Like the battery.

No battery. Unreg is that it? Voltage detect Battery Unregulated battery sense switch. See, it could be something like that. Like it's not detecting that the battery is in there.

So therefore it's just not even no power supplied. It's not apparent like it could be anything that's stopping this thing. powering on X Power on X Power on accessories Looks like they had a component in there and they just jumped it over. X Power on P row.

Whatever that is like. If we're back to the Efv again, are we? We didn't So I've missed the battery. Uh, 0.4 volt regulator. Wow, What do they need? A 0.4 volt regulator for? Holy Mackerel! 0.4 volts plus 1.2 plus 1.8 If you think you got power rail problems, spare a thought for the Sony design is: 0.4 volts, 1.2 volts, 1.8 volts, 2.5 volts, 1.1 volts And there's more.

I've seen other regulators 3.1.8 and 3.3 and that's just this one page. Wow. And there's more. Is there? Is that another 1.1 What is that? That was a different 1.1 That's another switched 1.1 It's nuts.

No. Well, that's it. Um, I didn't find the battery. Oh, but it's in there somewhere I I really like.

But check. Check this out. Look, they got pin outs. They got pin outs.

Ah beautiful. Anyway, there's the there's that uh battery board with the uh flex and it's got tiny little coin cell lithium on there. that'd be salt. Would it be soldered in? Maybe.

Oh yeah, there you go. it's got those those extra. That's where the battery goes on that pin. one there.

tiny little pin. One goes over to the uh, coin cell there and then it shares the ground. Wow. But anyway.

um yeah. like because we measured that like we were getting. we're getting power on there. The coin cell shouldn't matter if the coin cell's not there, it should still boot.

Um, it. just wipe the um. wipe the Cmos memory, that's all. and just wipe the settings.

Which it did. It did the whole thing with just factory reset. Um, but no. We we actually measured that we were getting voltage on there.

It wasn't a problem. so we're getting voltage onto that and these are all gorgeous. Look. They've even got the pin numbers overlaid on there and the component designators.

It's a thing of beauty. It's a joy. forever. Beautiful.

Look at this. Look at this. got the board overlays. It's just.

it's fantastic. Anyway, Um, that pornographic. Really demonetized. Anyway, there's our there's our main, uh processor, Isn't it? Yeah, there's our main processor.

Have they got individual num pins? Yep. Look. individual balls. Look at that.

Look at that. This thing has balls. Wow. The engineers who put together this service manual is just brilliant.

It's absolutely brilliant. Look: we can get all those, you know? So we measured a few of those caps and stuff and like nothing was getting over there. I'm I'm going to call it quits. This video is long enough I'm sure.

so this will be like it's just a part Two follow-up Look at that and maybe um, yeah, I'll spend some time go through the manuals in more detail and find where and how the power system and boot system works because obviously there's something wrong there. But why it? I I didn't touch it, it was just sitting there overnight. It was working when I finished that video and then come back the next day and it didn't work anymore. It would not boot yet.

Booted every time I was doing that video. and there were more boots that you didn't see they in the edit. Um, because the edit was. you know, I edited out a lot of stuff.

uh from that video even though I was 57 minutes long, was like two hours of footage or something. It just booted every time and then all of a sudden came the next day and it didn't boot. If you got any idea why it would do that, Um, I'll put a link to the service manual down below so you can have a squeeze for yourself if you're curious and just you know, just drool over all of the uh, there you go 2015 official release. Wow, is it that old? The camera? Yeah, probably.

Yeah, It's up to Mark 7. Now this is the Mark Iv jobby. Anyway, I'll make these available and you can see for yourself. Wow.

All right Anyway, hope you enjoyed that. If you did, give it a thumbs up. Catch you next time you.