Hi. We're going to take a look at a very interesting bit of kit today, and one that's very valuable for your lab. If you haven't got one, a lot of labs don't have one of these now. You've no doubt seen this in several fairly recent videos.

It's a current probe, in particular the Mixig, Cp 2100 and disclaimer: I actually sell this in the Eevblog store. It was so good I bought the company. For those who remember that slogan. Anyway, so impressed I bought the company.

Um, yeah, this is the Cp 2100 B uh, current probe that hooks into your oscilloscope. Here, it is hooking into a portable oscilloscope, but of course. uh, these things. The great thing about these is that you don't have to like, uh, break into your circuit with like a little current shunt or something like that.

You can actually just put it over a wire and clamp like that. Obviously, you can't do that to a Pcb trace if you want, uh, that capability. I've actually done a video donkeys years ago on the uh, positional the T Am Tti. I probably positional current probe, which is a different thing, but we might have a look and compare that to this one in this video.

Anyway, The whole idea is you whack a wire through there and if it closes properly, there you go. pinky size, whack your wire through there and you can measure your current. all completely isolated. So what do we get in the kit? We get a warranty card.

This is, uh, the 2100 B model. This one is available in two different models. There's the A model which has an 800 kilohertz bandwidth and the B model which is the only model that I sell on the Evblog store and that's got a two and a half megahertz bandwidth. I know this one says two megahertz on the label here, but actually this is one of the original prototypes and they actually upped it, uh, to 2.5 megahertz.

So all my stock actually has 2.5 megahertz written on it. So anyway, what we're going to do today is tear this puppy down. We're going to not only tear down the Um amplifier here, but we're also going to tear down the head as well because I suspect there's some electronics in there. it.

It ain't just, uh, the hall effect um sensor in there. it's going to be A. It's going to have like a head amplifier. Anyway, as you'll see, this is a very nice bit of kit.

Tell us the price. son. Well, uh, the 2100 A model that starts from about street price of around about 270 bucks and upwards. This is Yankee Bucks, but I've got the 2100 B model for like, if.

Check the links down below. you can actually get a coupon discount code. Um, that can get this puppy down to 360 Yankee Bucks for the 2.5 higher bandwidth 2.5 megahertz model. Anyway, it comes with a the Usb A because that's where it gets, uh, the power from it doesn't do anything else, it just gets, the power Most oscilloscopes these days, like digital ones, have a Usb port on the front so no worries.

and then, uh, the output into your one mega impedance scope. There it is Bnc straight in and it's got two different current ranges: 10 amps and 100 amps. So it's not designed for like, really low current. There's not many probes on the market that uh, can go down to like really low currents.

You've got to have some, like really old-school tech one or something like that from you know, the 1970s or something like that. Anyway, uh, 10 amp, uh, current range very handy for most general purpose electronics users and 100 amps for your higher end stuff. I haven't personally gone over 10 amps on it myself because I'm into the high power stuff. Anyway, two and a half megahertz bandwidth and it's got Auto Zero functionality and uh, shift as well functionality and it's actually pretty smart.

It must have a micro in it because it can do like Auto Zero and things like that. so it's got to have some smarts. We'll find out when we take this bad boy apart. And here's the probe head itself.

I assume it is, you know, slightly different internals for the 800 Kilohertz model as opposed to the two and a half Megahertz model we've got here. Uh, Dc max 100 amps. but I don't. I think if you went over that, I like it, you're just going to saturate the sensor.

It's just the operational range. I don't think it's actually going to blow up anything. or 70 odd amps. Ac, Rms.

It's got a 600 volt Cat 2 rating, 300 volt. Uh, Cat 3 because like, well, it's basically it's it's non contact. Your probe just goes in there. But there's our magnetics down in there.

And of course this. Of course you'll find this goes right under here. This forms a complete core around there. So yeah, like, you can't just operate it open like that.

It's actually got to be shut. So you get the magnetic fluxes going completely right around the core like that. And there'll be a hall effect current sensor in here somewhere. Or some form of current sensor in there that actually, uh, measures the fluxy and that will measure the magnetic field induced in the magnetics around here.

So cool. Let's uh, there's no obvious, oh yeah, there's a couple of screws on there. Oh yeah, yeah, it might come apart reasonably well. but anyway, it does feel like a nice high quality bit of kit.

Beautiful. Uh, strain relief on the back side here just feels really good quality. There's the back of that for those playing along at home. And it does have a an output here so that you can actually, uh, you know, power stuff off here as well, but I don't believe it actually does anything else.

It's just so that you can. you know, if you can, you can use your Usb ports basically just to pass through. And of course, yes, it comes in this nice handy little carry case. Sweet.

because this isn't like an often used bit of uh, test gear. This is the one you kind of keep on your shelf. Or when you need it, you need it. and we're in.

The screws were actually, uh, covered by the front. Uh, decal. So yeah, you kind of have to dig those out. But anyway, we take that off and uh, metal threaded inserts? Thank you very much for playing.

And there we go. Is that a micro down in there? We will actually go through this in detail, but the first interesting uh thing to note is the presumer. Yeah, that looks like one of those isolated Dc to Dc converters there. So even though they didn't really need to, I don't think because well, the the probe itself is isolated.

It's not making electrical, uh, contact to anything, but just to be on the safe side. They used an To Dc converter there for the power, so that's rather interesting. Let's go to the old Togano here and we can have a closer look here. And as I said that is a 0.0505 That would be a plus.

minus five voltsy uh numbers on these are pretty common, so if we go over to the video tape over here we can take a look at here. it is. It's available on the digi keys. Five weeks lead time.

Geez, that's pretty good these days with the Uh chip again. Anyway, Um, yeah, there it is. We've got the O505 so we've got the Uh, Plus Minus Five Volt job. It's an isolated little one watt uh converter.

I've used these countless times before. You get them in different sizes and uh yeah, there's a million and one different manufacturers they've all got the same pin out, so if you get one they're You know you can just get them from any manufacturer. That's a great thing about designing these in. Anyway, they've got a mourn sign in there, so let's have a look at the main processor and that is a Busy Bee.

It's an Efm8 and if we go to the video tape over here, that's a Busy Bee family data sheet. Here it is is a multi-purpose line of 8-bit micro controllers. It's an 805 One jobby of course it is goes up to 50 mega. It's not that old-school frequency stuff, but uh yeah, it's pretty good.

It's got a 12-bit analog to digital converter. Not too shabby, although of course the building converters are, you know, not as good as um, usually not as good as dedicated ones. but for something like this doesn't matter. Two latency analog comparators.

So actually, this is a fairly grunty little Um 805 one old school micro. There you go the Busy Bee: Medical equipment, lighting systems, High speed. Uh oh. it's got Cr 16 bit Crc security as well.

Really, that's that's. not too shabby cheesy. Ate in the old school 805 one. Anyway, there you go.

It's got that. That's just General Housekeeping. So obviously, uh, someone at Mixing likes their, uh, 805 ones old school. But these are obviously regulated.

You can tell by the pin outs and the big caps input and output. they're just regulators regulating the output of this to give us a nice clean output. Because these are switching isolated converters, they are pretty noisy, so you do want to, uh, quieten those up a bit. And what is that? Is that? Some sort of another regulator? Maybe it looks like it's a configuration.

Maybe it looks like a maybe a lower noise regulator. Perhaps going into the Can over here so we haven't got the can off. We'll have to desolder that if you want to get that bad boy off. But yeah, look, there's not much else in here really.

What's going on there? Some Op amp business. Not much. Got some discrete transistors Ti Op Amp over here. Uh yeah.

like there's nothing much doing. Um, that. that's a buzzer. Ls loudspeaker loudspeaker.

There you go. Yeah, because this thing does beep when it finishes its auto Zero and stuff like that. But yeah, basically that's it. I don't expect much to be on the bottom.

Unfortunately, it doesn't look like it comes out easily, but I'll do my best. Even the cable clamps have metal threaded inserts. No expense. Brilliant.

All right, we're out. And of course, what we expect in here. Um, because the head is going to have an headphone, at the headphone, a head amplifier on it. Obviously, you want to amplify the uh, low level stuff right at the head, and then it's going to have a cable drive which drives this and it's going to just have a level uh converter and it'll do some shifting as well because it's got that functionality that shift in functionality as well.

So that's going to add a Dc offset to you. Uh, shift the output and that will go into there like that. So maybe that's what that's driving over there? perhaps? I don't know. Anyway, let's take that off.

There we go. And yep, as I didn't expect to see any circuitry on the bottom actually at all. but we do. But yeah, that's all just filtering stuff for the uh, all the converters.

And once again and there we got a couple of other transistors as well. like a six pin jobby, Two six pin jobbies. They're labeled Q, so what are they dual transistor or something? That's interesting. Anyway, um yeah, we've got some Leds there because they're the backlight for the the buttons do actually light up and everything.

So oh there we go. we can get that off. There we go. Ta-da and oh, is that gonna? yeah, yeah, it's gonna pull through.

There you go. Got a couple of little parts on the bottom there. oh sorry, if you can see that. got a couple of little caps on the bottom.

Well, we're already double sided loading and you have to double side load for the Leds. anyway. See, that's the thing once you decide that. Well, once you're watching, once you're forced to like double side load because you want the buttons are on the bottom.

Of course the board has to be flipped over so the buttons are on the other side. The button pads are here and you want to back light the uh buttons, then well, you got to have your Leds. Well, now you could actually mount your Leds on the top side and then have bottom emitters through a hole. That's a, um, the thing.

You know, I've done that on projects. Um, and that's really handy so you can avoid double-sided load that way. But in this case, they went. Yeah, she'll be right.

Just do double-sided load. Once you decided to do double-sided load, you pay the penalty. Even if you have one lousy capacitor, one lousy lead or whatever, you usually pay that penalty. Um, in terms of manufacturing, uh, cost, and extra handling and whatnot, so you might as well put your extra parts on the bottom as well.

So yeah, no workers. So let's let's take this off. There, We go. There we go.

Let's peel that back and solder directly on. But of course it's coax. So no, no wackers. That's what you'd expect.

So there we go. Once again, Is that the same Op-amp that we had over here? Yeah, I think they're reusing that. Whatever that one is. So here's our input over here.

Sig in and Sig out. So this looks like there is this driving the no, no, hang on. No, this just does the shifting. Because here's our input.

Here's our output from our head and that goes basically straight through. There you go. it goes straight through. so they're just doing the level shifting.

Yep, that's all they're doing. Okay, So the actual um, coax driver is in the head itself. So when we tear down that, we'll be able to see that. But they've got a very so you got plus minus five volts going over to the head as well.

The offset V H V High or something. I don't know. Dw One Dw2 Dw Um, can't think of anything at the moment. Sure, if I sat down and thought about it and it'd be obvious.

But anyway, there you go. it's it's basically just doing some Dc offset plus some measurement as well because they, uh, do the zero offset, the automatic zero offset. So they need to be able to measure that. They'll be using the Adc built into the micro and and Bob's your uncle.

So there you go. That's rather nice. Uh, Revision 2019. Jeez, it's pretty.

It's been around for a while. I thought it was newer than that. but anyway, 2100 A B. So this is for the A and the B version.

So yeah, I believe this wouldn't change. The only difference for the lower frequency A version would be the magnetics and the hall of and the actual sensor in the head itself. So anyway, yep, let's go over to the head. Oh, by the way, yeah, there's the Uh.

is the Us. Does the Usb do anything? No, no, it doesn't even send data. I don't think it. Yeah, I don't think that's going to pass data through that ain't going to pass.

that ain't going to pass your data is. I'm afraid. I think that's just going to pass your power. So here is your head.

I have actually removed the screws and it's just got some adjustments on the bottom and the shield. so these shields just pop off like this and ta-dah we're in. I've got a fair income relay that'd be our range switch because you can't can actually hear the relay switch. It goes ca thump when you switch between the Uh 10 amp and the 100 amp range.

So there you go. They've got good old phone number electronics, switching rubbish obviously. um, too many uh, parasitics or whatnot. so they're doing that with old school relay ad8421.

And if we go to the videotape, that one's not too shabby. Check that out. Three nano volts per root. Hertz? uh.

low power instrumentation amp? Yeah, that's exactly what you'd expect in there. That's that's 2200 femto amps. Uh, current noise 10 meg bandwidth. Uh, two meg band with a gain of a hundred? Uh, Yep.

so, but that's exactly what you'd expect inside the head of something like this. So that's about all she wrote. isn't there? There's uh, more. There more footprints for variable caps.

That's what Vc stands for there. So that's interesting why they haven't put the variable caps in. That was maybe only during development and they went. Nah, She'll be right.

no whackers don't need them. And up here there our hall effect sensor. You can see them right down in there. There they are.

anyway. that's our magnetics for you magnetic fanboys. There you go. Count the number of laminations there.

So it's 88 something. Why the tops taken out of that? I don't know. 88 77 is the other one the same. They mound it backwards.

Definitely says 88 77 on there. I think the other ones in the other orientation. So the idea of course is that when you close the Uh jaws, there is exactly the same magnetics, the same laminations here, forming a complete loop like that. and of course the loops only broken there.

But of course all the magnetic flux has to flow through. These make two magnetic sensors here. So yep, that's the whole idea. So presumably they would use a different part in there for the Kilohertz version.

I'll try and dig up some data on that. Well, I can't find any data on those sensors, but a reasonable guess might be these multi-dimensions sent in the future. Um, Aec, A Willow Technologies company? God, how many variations of the One Bloody Company can can they get? Anyway, there's a good chance as this. Don't quote me on this, but anyway.

Tmr 2503 It utilizes a unique push-pull Wheatstone bridge composed of four unshielded Tmr sensor elements. The unique bridge design provides a high sensitivity differential output linearly proportional to magnetic field applied perpendicular to the surface of the sensor package, and it provides superior compensation of the output, etc. Anyway, it looks to be this package. So uh, is there any code information? 88 Sensitive direction? No.

Doesn't seem to be any packaging information at all. So like, in terms of like, labeling information. So 88 77? I don't know. So yeah, they don't give you that data unfortunately.

But anyway, it's likely that it's this. um, that'd be a guess. Anyway, they do have a sensitive direction like this, but if we go down in here, you can see that they're actually one is backwards or it's not labeled. But um, I don't know.

88.77 Definitely on there. the other. We can't see any label whatsoever. so they must have put one backwards for a reason.

Maybe to I don't know, cancel out, do cancellation or something noise or something. You know I? I don't know. they're not. They're not paralleling those up.

They're actually. Oh, are they hang on? No. Because we've only got the one Op amp, right? We only got the one instrumentation amp, so I might leave that to those playing along at home. Follow the money on that and see if you can figure out if they're they're both joined somewhere because we've only got the one instrumentation amp.

So I reckon that they're just yeah. they're putting in those for doesn't. It's not going to increase the bandwidth, Is it? No. I don't know what they're doing there.

But anyway, the interesting thing about this data sheet is that they don't actually give you the bandwidth information. sensitivity, supply, current, saturation, field, non-linearity. Also, voltage hysteresis, temperature, coefficient of resistance, temperature, coefficient of sensitivity, and offset, blah blah blah blah blah. But they're not going to give you the bandwidth of this bad boy.

So there you go. Um, I don't know. Like is there a different part for the different bandwidths on here? or do they bin them? Maybe They and you know, put the lower ones in the 800 Kilohertz model and these in the and the better ones in the two and a half meg model. I don't know if you've got any info or thoughts on that.

Please leave it in the comments down below. but there you go. Um, we can probably check the gain of this thing. Let's have a look see what gain that's got.

So if we have a look at the resistor here, and uh, what pins are we looking at? Anyway, there's one resistor that sets the gain and usually be two and three. Yes, it is resisted. Yep, two and three there. And uh, the inputs over there.

So oh okay, right. Yeah, that's what those two resistor trim pots do. They set the gain. Okay, so the trim and the game.

Why you wouldn't put. Does each one have to be? Maybe each. Maybe. There's such variability in the output of these sensors that they have to tweak.

Yeah, they have to tweak the gain on each one. What is like? It doesn't give you a nominal accuracy here. Does it on the data sheet? It doesn't. Yeah, I it looks like.

and maybe the physical orientation of each little uh, one in that, Like that, how it's soldered in and how it's You know, because the angle can slightly change. Um, how you solder the thing in there That could affect it by I don't know. double digit percentages or something. Perhaps it could it.

It could affect the gain or whatever. So yeah, I mean, that's not going to be perfect. even if you tried to put the uh, you know, and drilled the holes the exact you know, the tightest and nuns nasty going in there and you're still going to get some offset variation and balance variation as well. Wiggle wiggle wiggle um of the packages and that that would matter, right? Anyway, they.

oh yeah, it looks like is there some silicon down there? It looks like they put some sort of pot in. Yeah, there's potting around here. Some sort of, you know, encapsulant or whatever. I'm surprised that they didn't fill up the whole thing though, I guess.

But but yeah, that's what they have to do. I reckon each one has got to be trimmed by someone with a gray bearded nude virgin with a tongue at the right angle. and each one's uh, tweaked at the factory. And possibly they've been the sensors and that's how they get the different bandwidths out of this.

So I don't know. Maybe you could get a good 800 Kilohertz jobby? Who knows if anyone's uh, measured one. Please leave it in the comments down below. Anyway, Um, let's measure the resistance there.

This is where your auto hold comes in handy because I can't see that damn thing. So there we go. What is that? 298? Ohms. there you go.

So what does that work out to 299? Ohms actually? Oh, I love being in. Look at that Beautiful. That's the Op-amp or instrumentation amp. Sorry.

Anyway, where's our gain? uh, formula? I can't remember offhand what it is. it's been too long. Aha, 9.9 K over G minus 1. I love this look.

This is hilarious. Look, the gain can be calculated by referring to error reference source not found someone at Ad screwed up or using the following gain equation. There you go. standard ones: Um, 200.

Ohms, so we're talking. I don't know. It's in the order of somewhere between 20 and 50 there, so it's like 30 or something. There you go.

That's again, a 34.. So let's just have a practical example like this where it's very useful measuring mains power consumption. Now I'm going to use the 10 amp range here now. This is one issue I have with it, and they really should change the decal for this.

If you use the 10 amp range, it's 0.1 volts per amp. But what? they don't tell you? They do tell you this in the manual which is not provided in the case. By the way, you've got to download it. But they do tell you that you should use the Times 10 setting on your oscilloscope for the 10 amp range and for the 100 amp range, you want to use the Times 100 setting on your scope.

So or if it doesn't have that, you have to multiply it yourself. So yeah, that's kind of not obvious at first use. but anyway. Um, we've got this hooked up to the scope and we're parent from the Usb output here.

No wuckers. We've got our 10 amp range selected and our probe here. You'll notice it does actually have a direction marker on it. and of course, for Dc.

If there's any Dc component in signal, then you of course have to have it in the right direction. Otherwise, all your outputs are going to be a negative. So anyway, what I'm going to do is, I'm going to measure this thing right up its own clacker. So I'm going to measure.

Here's the mains input cord for this oscilloscope. We're going to measure the power consumption of this oscilloscope using the oscilloscope itself, and this is one of the beautiful things about this. So I've peeled back the sheath here. There's the active wire, the brown one different in other weirdo countries, so we'll whack this on.

I'll put it in the right direction. it's going into the instrument. not that there should be any Dc offset on here, because we've got Ac. All right.

Get in there, you sucker. There you go. Tada. We're now measuring the waveform of this oscilloscope.

Brilliant. And I'm also measuring this through my Voltec power analyzer as well. so we can just confirm the results. But let's have a look at the scope here and you can see the waveform.

We can, actually, uh, tidy this up a bit so we're going to acquire. And because it's a little bit, you can see a bit of noise on there, right? And that's the thing. If I take it off right there we go. That's just the noise floor of the scope.

whack that on. But we can clean that up by going into acquire and acquisition mode and we'll just select average averaging down there so it'll give us more resolution on there. and you can see the peaks in the waveform here. Look at them because this is a switch mode power supply inside.

here. it's go and it doesn't have any power factor correction circuitry. You get these huge current spikes now. of course.

One of the first things you have to do before you even get your measurement is to set up your probe properly. so I've got it set. It's Amps mode and not not all scopes will have this, but and pretty much any modern one should. It'll have Amps mode, so it'll give us a readout directly in milliamps per division.

So 200 milliamps per division. and then we can set the probe ratio there. and I've got the probe set to 10 to 1. which curiously on the keysight scope.

it only gives you the ability to do the probe there when you're like the attenuation setting when you're in Volts mode. so you just set that first. A little bit weird. Anyway, we are set up.

We are good to go. 200 milliamps per division so you can see 200, 400, almost 600 milliamps plus minus peaks there and like, yeah, that's not great is it And of course the Ac. You can see the Ac waveform in there and that's just the normal current. That's what what happening.

Well, it's been a little bit in trigger there and that's the normal current that's happening. But it's because it's a switch mode with no power factor correction. taking these big spikes and this allows you to see this for your product under development. And this is brilliant because it allows you to see what sort of peak currents you're getting and any noise issues and stuff like that we might have a look at the noise in a second, we might be able to see it.

So 50 Hertz. Now that 60 Hertz Yankee rubbish and peak-to-peak current is around about an amp. look at that. Um, that's actually quite a lot.

And I I've got the Ac Rms here. This is the standard deviation. I've done a video on that, by the way, I might have to link that in which takes out any Dc component in there. and we've got basically 170, 475 milliamps Ac Rms and the Dc Rms which includes, uh, any Dcr component.

It's it's a little bit higher because maybe. well, I haven't done an Auto Zero on this to actually subtract out any Uh components. So let's actually do that. so we'll just disconnect that.

We'll hold that down. It's going through Auto Zero. the Led's on and beep beep beep It's done. its Auto Zero business.

Let's plug this probe back in and see if that's any different. Yep, there you go. We've taken out the little Dc component offset that we actually had in there. Now it's uh, bang on.

There's no additional Dc uh component in the, um, the mains Ac signal. But of course, we can actually change that Dc offset there. We can shift that like way. well.

it's gone because it's not triggering anymore. It's gone out of our trigger window. So there you go. We can just shift that like that, so that's beautiful.

You can see the Dc component change there, but yeah, we can just manually adjust that or do it auto magically. Now, if we actually zoom in all the way in here, you'll notice there's a bit of a wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah in that waveform. That will be the switch mode frequency conducted back out of the oscilloscope via the mains cord. Because it doesn't, it might have some input.

I'm sure it has some sort of input mains filled in with the common mode choking stuff, but it's sneaking out and we can get in there and measure that. So I set it to a rough peak there. And then we'll well. x2 another rough peak there.

Good enough for Australia. we're talking. Oh what do we got? Six, Oh, Sixty Six Point Six Six Six Six Six. Thank you very much Kilohertz.

Fantastic. So that would be the switching frequency of our converter in there, which is sneaking its way back out on the mains cable here, and this thing is able to measure it. Neat, huh? So one of the benefits of being able to see your waveform like this in Maine's equipment is I do well not only to uh, see what sort of uh, switching frequencies or noise coming out or anything conducted mode noise or anything like that, but it can also show you what uh, like peak currents and this will have an effect on uh, say the design of the fusing for your product. uh for example.

And of course because this is apparent power versus real power, it's gonna the apparent power is going to be higher. These current spikes. These are real. So they have to come from the mains and then the entire mains distribution system right back to wherever your generator is.

So these are spikes on here. I'm getting into apparent power versus real power and that's not the scope of this video. But anyway, it shows you that these hue like normally if it was power factor corrected, you would just see this waveform in here. You wouldn't have these gigantic peaks.

You know, if it was ideal power factor of one, you'd only see a small amount of current in there. But we've got these huge current spikes in here. Positive and negative and this causes uh, like losses. I squared our losses in your cable.

I've covered that in fundamentals videos. You can't escape those. I squared r losses. They're going to come from the cable.

They've got to flow through your fuse so it affects the fuel, design, of the fusing of your product and other component ratings inside, uh, your product, and your distribution system, and all sorts of things. And and obviously, for a small product like this, it's only taken tens of watts. But when you're designing like huge industrial stuff like it can be a real huge deal. But you know, if you manufacture, you know 100 million of these widgets and you you know people use them all around the world.

That's a lot of extra power consumption anyway. So it's very cool to be able to see the Uh mains current waveform like that, but of course doesn't have to be mains current. This is just one example you can do in circuit. But uh, because you are, you've got a clamp jaw like this.

Often on prototypes you might break into a Pcb trace, have a big loop coming out, or whatever, or you might you know have some input power supply cable in or something like that to be able to clamp onto. So yeah, with these clamp probes, often you may not have the wires available and you may have to bodge it in to test the prototype or something like that. Anyway, let's go back to our measurements here and see if it matches over here. Let's see if the accuracy.

So our apparent power va is V is what it says voltage times current so our current is 170. Let's round it to 175 milliamps. Yeah, so 107. Get the confuser out here and this will tell us our voltage over here: 241.5 Thank you very much So multiply by 245 41, 241.5 Tada 42.26 And what do we get here for Va? Was I measuring Va 42.88 Well, it's fluctuating all the time.

it's varying and there's going to be a bit of error in there. But jeez, that's that's not bad. I don't know. calculate the percentage error there.

If we run the numbers again, it's always jumping around a little bit. There's going to be error in this. There's going to be error in the probe. There's going to be error in the oscilloscope and all sorts of stuff.

But there you go. It's pretty done close, so I'm happy with that. And if we hit and, well, a power Factor. there we go.

Our power factor is not great. Is it 0.55 Power Factor? Because well, there's no power factor correction in the product. We're getting those large spikes and the actual power, which you're paying mostly depends on which country you're in. The power you're paying for is only 23.8 What's there? So that's what you're paying for in terms of power consumption.

At least here in Australia, that's what you're paying for. unless you're in an industrial setting and then you'll be paying for the Va because that power has to be coming from somewhere. Somebody's got to pay for it and you ultimately pay for it, in the distribution system. But anyway, I've covered this in other videos.

so there you go. That's pretty cool, huh? And I've shown this with the Tti Prober: positional current? uh probe. And when you're measuring really low currents, I'm down to the minimum that my scope can go Five milliamps, uh, per division here, which is basically pretty much down in the noise. If I rotate that, you'll notice the Dc offset will change.

That, of course, is the earth's magnetic field cool, huh? So uh wait, yeah, you've just got to be careful. And of course, if you open the clamp probes, it's yep. So we're going to come a gutter, but yet just be aware of the pesky Earth's magnetic field and orientation. Measuring very low Dc currents and noise wise, there's the scope unconnected and let's plug it in.

I've got no signal here and there you go. so well. depends on what range you want to measure that over. But here you go.

we're talking ah, you know, four milliamps rms noise? Something like that, and if we disconnect it, it's there. You go. Like, you know, half a milliamp, 500 microamps. So and here's the specs from the manual.

and it doesn't actually give you a spec for uh, Rms noise on this thing, but its measurement range is normally 50 milliamps to whatever the maximum our current is. So 50 milliamps minimum, but you can measure that it can measure under that, Let's give it a try and let's just measure a low current. I've got my signal generator here. I've got just generating one kilohertz and I'm set and setting.

I'm just short in the output. uh basically into my scope the 50 ohm output and you can see uh, 25 milliamps here almost bang on and we're reading uh, 25 milliamps there Now It looks incredibly clean and it is like the waveforms actually there. but because well a you've got to put um noise reject trigger on because we are down in the noise here. So if we you know if we don't do that, the trigger doesn't happen uh, properly and we are in the Uh average in acquire mode as well.

so we can go into the higher resolution mode that just does a box car uh, averaging. And if we actually look at the signal as it really looks like it's a little bit, it's a little bit hairy. scary. But it's there and you can clean that up and you can get decent accuracy out of this thing.

So there you go. it's almost That's practically bang on almost and I can wind the wick down on that and that's that's 10 milliamps now and of course we're going to have to. There we go. We can really clean that up with averaging and that's that's a 10 milliamp signal so it can measure way below its nominal 50 milliamps uh spec.

so that's not too shabby at all. So there you go. I hope you like the look at this uh, mixig Cp 2100b current probe and they're a very useful bit of kit. I highly recommend picking one up.

you don't necessarily have to get one from my store if you do. That helps out the blog, but if you can get it cheaper somewhere else or you prefer the 800 kilohertz bandwidth one which is going to be a cheaper than the 2.5 megahertz uh B model that we've uh got here, then by all means highly recommend it. So I'll leave a link down below where there'll be a coupon code if you do want to get it from the Eev blog store. and maybe I should like read: get a like a custom Eev blog.

Brandon Decal for it. I think what do you think? Leave it in the comments down below like I've done that for my meters and my high voltage probe. So yeah, um, it's just like, yeah, I don't sell these in large volumes, it's just small volume. Anyway, the very cool part about this is it is available in a even the low 800 kilohertz one is actually quite a high bandwidth for a current probe.

Shop around like some of them are only like, you know, like 100 kilohertz or a couple hundred kilohertz. So even 800 is quite high. But yeah, 2.5 megahertz is really high. To get any higher than that, you've got to go to like the 5 000 Tektronix jobby or something like that.

that'll do like 50 megahertz. Um, so yeah, this is really positioned well in the market in terms of uh, bang per buck. It's probably the best bang per buck current meter out there. but of course I sell it so you know, but I think it is.

Leave your thoughts down below. So anyway, if you enjoyed that video, please give it a big thumbs up. As always, comment down below and check out my Odyssey channel and you know what to do. Catch you next time you.