Teardown of the ANENG Q1 multimeter
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Now shot and available in 4K resolution!
Review video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmkIPkXpg9U
Forum: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-1095-1096-aneng-q1-multimeter/
EEVblog Main Web Site: http://www.eevblog.com
The 2nd EEVblog Channel: http://www.youtube.com/EEVblog2
Support the EEVblog through Patreon!
http://www.patreon.com/eevblog
Stuff I recommend:
https://kit.com/EEVblog/
Donate With Bitcoin & Other Crypto Currencies!
https://www.eevblog.com/crypto-currency/
T-Shirts: http://teespring.com/stores/eevblog
Likecoin – Coins for Likes: https://likecoin.pro/ @eevblog/dil9/hcq3
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Anyway, let's take a look inside this thing. I Don't particularly like the tilting bail. It just like comes out every time you go to dick it around to put back in. They do have metal threaded insert though, but the screw comes out just flies out so it's easily lost.
The two double-a batteries. you need your bloody double-a batteries? Do at least get your pissant 50. You know, 60 70 hour battery life or whatever it is, you might get out of this thing anyway. Let's crack it open.
There's no fuse access. of course we wouldn't expect it. and here's where you might want to switch to our 4k mode down here in the corner so you can see all the detail. Um, let's have a look.
I Don't mind that little riser board there for the current. that's pretty good. You can see how it's got the split jack and it's actually sense in those off so I can do that. Auto detection there, no worries.
I'm too little M 205 HRC Fuses: They're not branded at all, so mer. Okay, well, they're better than a little pissant glass ruse. There's our little 10m current shunt, isn't it? Little piece week? Look at that. Um, a couple of melts in there.
Oh jeez. Attell you what? They're filled in the ground plane? Look at that. That's pretty close to here. Voltage input jack.
That's like you want to peel back the ground plane. Why have that close? I don't I don't understand that at all. I think that's probably too close. but this thing.
Yeah. I Forgot to mention it's only like just like the A Double O8, it's 600 volt cat3, but it's not independently tested or rated or anything like that. Okay, we've got a couple of more mouths, you know. I'm a bit of a MILF fanboy, but apart from that, where are the where's the PTC protection? Where are the moths on there? We've got ourselves a diode.
Oh yeah, good on you. And here's the interesting thing. we've got ourselves a real way look. it's a big proper US relay in there and it goes clunk when you pair it on.
Wait, no, is that our PTC That could be our one and only PTC Is it. Ah okay, it's better than nothing. Anyway, got ourselves the black a bla but there. What else? Look at this beastie there.
Yes, they have rubbed the numbers off that well that they have a completely erased from existence. Got ourselves an A squared prom there with some pretty crusty solarii and I get the macro lens out and show you and there's our ICL our voltage reference. What's that one? I could use my new 4k zoom I'll zoom into that and see what we get because that's one of the advantages of having a 4k camera. Not necessarily that you know people are going to watch in 4k but at that the editing stage it allows me to like zoom in on tear downs and stuff like that in the editing process.
if I see something interesting because once again I do all this on the cams quarter screen right? So even though this is a really excellent camcorder screen, it's 1440 by 1080 Like you know, like I really can't It's small and I can't see it three and a half inch. I can't see really good detail on that so often in tear downs. When I go to the editing stage, I'll notice something and go aha I Want to zoom in So if 4k it allows me to. you know zoom in really well, just gives me the extra resolution and well, what else is there Like the jacks? They're just mere par for the course on these things. As I said, the ones down in there a split. You can see that? hopefully? yeah, but that's all she wrote, you know. Mysterious micro here. we've got our chipset here.
Our fake Biograph and solder joints look a bit pasty or what? What's the deal there And if we get the board out there, you go. That was a struggle, but you can see the split. Jack's down in there. Check out these joints.
here. Are those ones dry as a dead Dingos donger? Unbelievable. Wow Frosty the Snowman Check out the joint in there. Let's just put a lid on the other side.
It's almost like an afterthought and uh-huh. If you have a look at the data sheet for this whole fire relay, then it's actually a latching type. Which of course makes sense because you don't want to be pissing away the current on the coil when you power this thing up. So you latch it on, it stays on and then when you remove it and then it doesn't consume any power to keep the coil wire energized.
So and aha starts to make a bit more sense if you actually get rid of the battery. I Cover here which was hide in some of the traces. I Thought it was originally coming from here and this was going under to here to the relay. but it's not.
If you follow the money directly, this is the voltage input here. There you go directly right over to the one contact of the relay there. so there you go. It's definitely switching the volts input directly.
So I was actually a bit confused by this. I Thought: you know where does the other side of the context go? Because this is the common pin of the relay here. here's the input. Come in.
You can see that comes directly from the input there. so there's nothing else connected. Look nothing behind the curtain there. So um, by default, there is no the PTC is on the switched side.
Here's the PTC there. between those two pins, there's absolutely nothing on the other contact. So all they're doing with that relay. the latch to relay.
That's why it's got two coils there. You can switch it one way or the other, then it just stays there. to reduce your power consumption. So I've got two distinct paths here.
one that goes via these melt resistors here in series. These are high value resistors so it really limits the current that seems to go directly in here. Haven't followed that trace, but it completely bypasses the relay up here and and the PTC here. Now the other path is directly from the Jacke which snakes the way its way around that goes into one contact of the relay and the only place. the only function of this relay is to switch that direct input in and out and the out of that. When it is switched in, it goes directly to the PTC here through the PTC and that trace goes down into it. Looks like they've got back-to-back diode protection there, so it seems that one looks like it's for the voltage range. They switch in the resistors here and they switch in the relay and all that just for the voltage range.
The other one, the direct input with the PTC protection and the diode protection is for the millivolt range. Obviously, whereas you know on the old school meter, you didn't need any of that relay rubbish or anything. All you needed was you know a different range switch position. So this is why you can hear the we switch if we go between volts and millivolts.
So if you compare the original eight double O 8 on the right there to the this new is Q1, It's not really a replacement for the eight double await, it's just designed to meet a different market and they're very similar there. The Q1 has the larger arm M 205 HRC fuses the eight Daylight has those are smaller the squat ones which are probably harder to get you know, technically not as good. The MILF input resistors are the same, the same diode protection, and it's probably got the same blob microcontroller. It's got the E Squared prom.
they're a bit. it's got the add that extra our microcontroller chip so that must be maybe that's like is that like doing the extra bar graph stuff and doing life that something's got to do the relay switching and things like that. So maybe they might be a dual purpose in that they've got to get those 100 extra LCD segments from somewhere I'd Be surprised if the chipset has all that. It uses the same buzzer and everything else so it's a bit bigger, uses double-a batteries, but it's basically crippled by that ridiculous choice of that screen.
and these soft buttons are going to put the relay in there like why? I I Just don't get it. it just seems to be a metre that didn't seem to need to be made. Really? I mean the screen just spoils it I Can see that hey, having the extra non-contact voltage thing would be an additional feature on there. Some people might prefer the you know, the push buttons to the rain switch and that's fine.
but no, it's totally let down by the screen. Imagine if they just you know, put the original screen back in there and have the double-a batteries at last forever. it would be a nice little arm up step in the model there. and if they just put in those extra two current ranges.
jeez, it might even be a bit of a killer. But you know construction of these things as as what you'd expect for a twenty five dollar and a $38 morning meter. It's You know, it's acceptable for the price. So anyway, if you liked that video, please give it a big thumbs up.
And as per the previous video, please tell me what your thought of the 4k video and does it actually look any better and on 1080p? because it should. In theory, when you upload a 4k video to YouTube YouTube process that at a higher bitrate. They process the 1080p version at a higher bitrate apparently and so they give you and deliver a higher quality 1080p than if you just if I just rendered a 1080p from this 4k content and uploaded it anyway. Catch you next time. .
Totally misleading video. if fact this is mostly used and one of the best multi meter at its price range.
Nice video! Incredible camera.
An interesting mod would be using a 18650 battery and adding a USB charger.
Pls give me your model camera 4k
where find the electronic schematics?
Icl8069 that is transistor? mosfet?
Plz review aneng an113b multimeter
Me watching in 1080p and seeing no details at all. The whole video is just a blur.
The relay is a great idea Mate, think about it. There is no parasite drain and you can have an auto shutdown.
TALK TOO MUCH!!! 👎
I had one. One day it started reading garbage after a year. Don't buy.
Sir, aneng an82 teardown
I have a short in battery and the screen led work but no data …can you help me with this proplem
Aneng Q1, zotek zt-x or zotek zt-111…???
Nice video sir. Can you put video aneng St 209 clamp meter. I need to fix the problem. In it 8 pin IC was found burnt. It will be helpful for us.
Thanking you sir. I eagerly waiting for your video
Friends please.
What value of Q5 and Q4 in circuits aneng Q1 ?
Do you have schematics ?
Thanks
The CE mark implies it meets European CE standards and is independently tested. Which it does not.
Close ups look crisp! To bad their soldering looks like little balls. Sorry I can’t recommend this potentially nifty little meter the way I could its predecessor.
Ngomong opo ra mudeng
why Chinese company always put a blob on controller anybody knows?
Love watching you videos. you are very informative. I now know how my Hantek 2D72 scope meter works. It has 3 Relays.
nice.veryvery nice
Omg the soldering on that icl8069